It certainly is not broken but secure high self-fordutaon use or have used it very broken.
Anyway, the problem size to be used for col although these can only be used in the U.S. and England that is 20% of the world's channels using a normal-millimeter key can not be tightened, and this hateful.
I've had this same thing happen to 2 different B & S POS engines. One 18.5 hp and another 21 hp. Sears Craftsman lawn mower. 2 engines in 6 years. I will NEVER buy anything with a Briggs engine in it again. I always check/change the oil in my motorized property and keep my stuff in top shape. They just put out GARBAGE. Briggs = worthless. Not like they used to be. Anything but Briggs in th future for me.
@Dread58 where u talking care of them even tough the quality has gone down a ton then engine should last more then 3 years the best thing you can do is fin a old 70-80's Briggs engine that is the same hp or whatever you need then swap it
@1skiinIan no offense but knowing and doin is to different things, for example I know about planes but i cant fly one very well, also the fact that you take that long to figure the engine is shot is weird because as a rule of thumb u find metal in shards or huge pieces its done, no offense but also the fact is Briggs stink now a days so why do you got a blown one just scrap it
@cfazekas0441 you are aware that the bottom of the connecting rod is the bigger hole right? this is way too small. It's actually the arm that holds the counterwight from moving around in the block on brigg's "syncro balance" systems
No wrong again the conecting rod should look the same at the bottom on the left and right. It was missing one half. Do not be such a mouthy butt head. I was trying to be nice if you do not like what I said then fine that is your choice. Just don't be rude about it. Like I said befor good luck.
Why are you asking for help on you tube? Why don't you buy a book or check one out at a libary or make copies of how to work on this motor if your local libary will not allow you to chech out repair manuals like the county libaries where i live in minnesota. You are getting lots of replies and i an 80% certain some of them are wrong and so are you. The conecting rod is broaken. you should stop saying it is not. Good luck to you on this project.
@ahnbra ahahaha look at you. looks like you need to check out a book or two. it's the counterwieght rod.Briggs and Stratton's patented "Syncrobalance" system uses a cammed flywheel to help reduce vibration. These counterweights had to be held in place by a rod so they don't bounce around and smash against the blocl.
so, I am not creating a video on youtube asking for help. it is my exploration. Good luck telling other people what to do in your life
@ahnbra god you realy are a dumbass there is nothing wrong with the fu**ing rod or the piston the counterbalance stabilizer is snaped go back to school fu** face
No one here has mechanic skills don't be commenting unless u know exactly what your talking about!!! It is not the rod a weedeater rod is not even that small!!! The rod is fine!!! It can't bust through the engine so it is technically not blown. Any blown motor is fixable unless there is a hole in the side!!!
It is not blown it is fine his rod is fine!! It is easily to fix!!! In fact that probably might run like that as long as the piston and cams are moving prperly at TDC. It would not work well at all since those keep the piston balanced!!!
well , its not the con rod for the piston but im pretty sure it looks like a rod that comes from that counterweight over to the block to keep that counterweight from slammin around ... pretty sure
@MrBrey1 exactly. Everyone keeps saying it's the con rod, but 1, it's way too small, 2 you can see when I pull the piston and conrod out, they're perfect
@PistolPete2 why whould I need a new rod? As you can see in the video, it is perfectly fine. It's the counterbalance rod that stops the counterwieght from hitting the block. Go google briggs and stratton's "Syncro balance" motors....
You don't need to lecture me how to rebuild engines. I've done plenty in my time. Go look at my vid where I rebuild my mach 1 670
i have only seen the video to 1:25 so far and i can tell you that it has a brocken rod by the big chunck of metal you pulled out... well never mind... i wonder if it broke before and someone left that chunck in there
@8sixfeetunder i got it like this, and how many times do I need to tell people this, it's the rod for the counterweight that stops it from smashing into the block. go search brigs syncrobalance rod or counterwieght rod
I accidentally tried to start my pop's lawn mower and I accidentally left the blades on while trying to start it. for some reason it won't start anymore. any ideas what I should do.
@bobchessy i know, but we can make a blown engine worse, by making it unable to repair. but we all started somewhere indeed, but thats why i say, dont do it yourself, just watch someone else do it for you, so you can learn from it
i always call that piece the dogbone connecting rod, thats what there called when you buy racing lawn mower parts anyways, you can get them in billet aluminum that will not break!
You know that big chunk you pulled out was your piston rod. That "THING" you were asking about was the very bottom of the rod that is (was) connected to the crank. Thats how the piston goes up and down.
@Peacemaker2027 naww man, but check your local classifieds and stuff. sometimes people sell really cheap when the engine works but there is something wrong with the tractor
you do know that on briggs and strattons, you are supposed to take flywheels off, then take cam and crankshaft out at same time...and you have to make sure you have your cam set right when reasembled.
@SabresHockeyFan1993 WRONG you are mistaken my freind you can take off the piston and the cam and valve lifters without taking off the flywheel and pulling out the crank shaft
Its the connecting arm from the counterbalance. The balance weight connects to the engine block by a small 3 inch arm. Must have rev-ved it too high for it to break like that. Or just crappy manufacturing.
its the rod that connects the counterweight to the lock allowing the counterweight rotate and move slightly while holding it far enough away frome the block to not cause knockng
yes they are but if you are running say in a super stock or storck flahead class they do really well for what they are...i have a dual carb set up for my twin flathead engine with two of the briggs 12.5 walboro carbs one for each cyl...they are pretty wicked
oh ive done it and made it happen lol...i have some good stuff id love to video but i dont have a cam corder anymore so i cant show off my awsome stuff to the world lol it kills me sometimes.....just like i have yet to see a good built up 5 hp briggs on here yet id love to put mine on here but oh well
ya man, you can squeeze a lot of hp out of those 5hp briggs. I've seen it. all high compression running on alky with costom ground welded cam, the works
they way i ground cams there is no need for welding period, although you make the tappets .100 thousanths longer instead that way your camshafts temper isnt damaged i use a special cam from bullet cams...it has 312 degrees of duration @ .050 its pretty mean lol....calls for some stout valve springs
well it would be nice but i use the HRM6A tillotson carb for my engines, it has a 1.625 venturi and comes on older model skidoos but of course mine is new from toledo ohio out of the factory
broken counter weight rod, a connecting rod is about 50 bucks and a counter wieght rod is like 25 but not hard to fix...ill buy the ultralight camshaft though lol
good deal lol, see i race lawnmowers and all so i have been doin this for about 8 or 9 yrs....not bashin u about anything id love to have that camshaft
too bad you weren't a lil earlier. I just threw it im my scrap metal pile a few months ago. no one bid on ebay. I would have givin it to you for shipping
i can say that IC means industrial comercial. you might be able to reuse the block,but that depend mostly on any damage to the cylinder. a nick or scratch in the crank case wont hurt anything. if one of the valves were warped when everything went haywire then it probably damaged the valve sleeves also. all in all,i would just junk it for any usable parts.
the counterweight rod broke! people who say that the rod broke watch the whole video! that big ass weight isnt supposed to just flop back and forth 3600 times a minute smacking the inside of the block!
that little peice stops the harmonic balancer from slaming back and forth, atleast im pretty sur thats wut its for, i had a tecumseh on a snapper an i reved her to hi and that huge weight that u have in that engine flew out the side of the motor and it went about 100 ft down the road it scared the crap out of me cause that thing coulda took out my leg
lol, u need a badge for that man. LOL just imagening that. I am rebuilding a 1969 8hp briggs right now, and before i rebuilt it i redlined the hell out of it. it didn't blow up, i am just polishing the valves, laping the valves bla bla bla. but it has a straght pipe and just thinking of that thing blowing up right infront of me going like 40 mph would suck so much.
also at frame 3:36 if you pause it. that rod you took out makes it to where the synrco can move and it goes to the hole on the right of the screen it looks like your missing the pin that went there too. I rebuilt a 12.5hp briggs for a shop class in high school they're exactly the same
that piece that you first took out is part of what is called a harmonic balencecer its ment to cut down on the vibrations made from the crank the reason that broke is because it either got over revved or the whole assembly gave up
the rod was broken first off and by the way in a small engine like that the piston cant kiss the valve. they both aim up. however you might want to check the head bcuz wen the rod broke it may of have hit and cracked the head
I'll give you a head up...if that piece is broke then chances are the top side bearing is wore out and giving to much play..when that piece breaks its a VERY good sign thats what has happend...also by top side I mean where the crank goes thru into the flywheel...its a very common problem and once that has happend you'll just have to find a different block to use you parts in....good luck!
it looks fine to me just take out the balancer and run it till it dies works for me :D or some times i just take the cover off and take out the metal chunks and put it back and run it till i dies
sold the crank for a 100 dollars? ha i got piles of the pieces of shit motors laying around the house damn i need to be living where ur at hell i give 25 bucks for one that was running great and its sitting in my yard collecting rain water ha thats crazy
are you blind? read the fucking comments. how many times do I have to say this. there is a crack in the block and the syncrobalance rod is shattered. there is nothing wrong with the connecting rod or piston.
any more videos!!?? LOL bah, do you guys like em that much? it's a little slow for vids right now as it is very cold in canada. I'll be posting some snowmobile vids soon. I guess, If you guys like them...
no, I think it may have been from reving the engine too high. sometimes those employees don't set the govornors right I guess. I got the whole tractor for free, and it was VERY new
That part is the syncronisor rod. It's what ancors the syncronisers to the inside of the block like an ancor so they dont wiggle all over the place but at the same time rod moving with the syncronisor. That problem there is caused by over reving the engine. Thats operator error. Not the engines fault. I wish some people wouldnt talk down of briggs. They've built engines for 80 plus years and most problems are operator error or bad maintenence. No engine is bullet or maintenence proof.
UMMM NO WAY MY 1982 BRIGGS STILL RUNS AND MY 2007 Honda IS FUCKED IT BURNES OIL ALL THE FUCKING TIME ITS A GCV 135 4.5 HP OHC I GOT IT BECAUSE IT WAS OHC GOOD ON FULL ETC BUT MY OLD ONE FROM 1982 STILL RUNS GOOD FUCK Honda
DanielJaegerFilms couldn't be more right. if everyone gave honda a chance, it would be the new briggs. did you check out my other hondas DanielJaegerFilms?
by the way, I am no longer rebuilding it. I found a crack in the block and the counter wieghts need to be replaced along with the mini rod that holds them in place, and the bolt broke that holds the counterwirght rod in place, so it needs to be re taped. it just isn't worth it
kaput müll weg damit schrott
Techno1309 3 months ago
kaput müll weg damit
Techno1309 3 months ago
Dog bone it broke more than likely belt way to tight or motor jerked back
doscooby76 4 months ago
It certainly is not broken but secure high self-fordutaon use or have used it very broken.
Anyway, the problem size to be used for col although these can only be used in the U.S. and England that is 20% of the world's channels using a normal-millimeter key can not be tightened, and this hateful.
foxbet1 5 months ago
do you know wat your doiung
sportworksrc 6 months ago
Did you ever fix it?
workensmart 6 months ago
You said that's that new synchro balanced stuff. Well, it's not new at all. Briggs&Stratton has been using it since 1966.
1972FordF150 7 months ago
I've had this same thing happen to 2 different B & S POS engines. One 18.5 hp and another 21 hp. Sears Craftsman lawn mower. 2 engines in 6 years. I will NEVER buy anything with a Briggs engine in it again. I always check/change the oil in my motorized property and keep my stuff in top shape. They just put out GARBAGE. Briggs = worthless. Not like they used to be. Anything but Briggs in th future for me.
Dread58 7 months ago
@Dread58 where u talking care of them even tough the quality has gone down a ton then engine should last more then 3 years the best thing you can do is fin a old 70-80's Briggs engine that is the same hp or whatever you need then swap it
minibikerider1 5 months ago
400 bucks for a new motor
canadamonster 7 months ago
It was the counter balance rod... not too bad...
GeorgeEliot197 8 months ago 2
do u know anything about motors? -_-
and clean u piston head before you put it back together
quazaky1 9 months ago
@quazaky1 I most likely know more than you about any type of engine; turbine, rotary, piston
1skiinIan 9 months ago
@1skiinIan no offense but knowing and doin is to different things, for example I know about planes but i cant fly one very well, also the fact that you take that long to figure the engine is shot is weird because as a rule of thumb u find metal in shards or huge pieces its done, no offense but also the fact is Briggs stink now a days so why do you got a blown one just scrap it
minibikerider1 5 months ago
i agree its the counter balence stablizer
TheDabomb57 9 months ago
@TheDabomb57 GOD THANK YOU. It's way too small to be a connecting rod anyways... enless it was a weed eater)
1skiinIan 9 months ago
@1skiinIan plus when it shows you takeing out the con rod you set it down right next to the other bottom half
TheDabomb57 9 months ago
@TheDabomb57 exactly. This movie shows who the real smart people are
1skiinIan 9 months ago
thats the bottm pece of conecting rod
cfazekas0441 9 months ago
@cfazekas0441 you are aware that the bottom of the connecting rod is the bigger hole right? this is way too small. It's actually the arm that holds the counterwight from moving around in the block on brigg's "syncro balance" systems
1skiinIan 9 months ago
@1skiinIan ok Ive only worked on the briggs motors from the 1960s Im not framilyer with the modern engines
cfazekas0441 9 months ago
No wrong again the conecting rod should look the same at the bottom on the left and right. It was missing one half. Do not be such a mouthy butt head. I was trying to be nice if you do not like what I said then fine that is your choice. Just don't be rude about it. Like I said befor good luck.
ahnbra 9 months ago
@ahnbra watch the video again. I pull out the connecting rod and piston in one unscaved piece
1skiinIan 9 months ago
Why are you asking for help on you tube? Why don't you buy a book or check one out at a libary or make copies of how to work on this motor if your local libary will not allow you to chech out repair manuals like the county libaries where i live in minnesota. You are getting lots of replies and i an 80% certain some of them are wrong and so are you. The conecting rod is broaken. you should stop saying it is not. Good luck to you on this project.
ahnbra 9 months ago
@ahnbra ahahaha look at you. looks like you need to check out a book or two. it's the counterwieght rod.Briggs and Stratton's patented "Syncrobalance" system uses a cammed flywheel to help reduce vibration. These counterweights had to be held in place by a rod so they don't bounce around and smash against the blocl.
so, I am not creating a video on youtube asking for help. it is my exploration. Good luck telling other people what to do in your life
1skiinIan 9 months ago
@ahnbra god you realy are a dumbass there is nothing wrong with the fu**ing rod or the piston the counterbalance stabilizer is snaped go back to school fu** face
allenscott19832008 9 months ago
that sir is a piece of the counterweight rod!
Bamchucknorris 10 months ago
its the counter wieght attachment. its there so the balancer wont fly around
RCTRUCK4 10 months ago
the moter threw brock part of the secro blancer the part rhat keeps the secro wieghts frome hitting the cranck case walls.
123456789918273645 10 months ago
No one here has mechanic skills don't be commenting unless u know exactly what your talking about!!! It is not the rod a weedeater rod is not even that small!!! The rod is fine!!! It can't bust through the engine so it is technically not blown. Any blown motor is fixable unless there is a hole in the side!!!
nathanmeitzler 10 months ago
It is not blown it is fine his rod is fine!! It is easily to fix!!! In fact that probably might run like that as long as the piston and cams are moving prperly at TDC. It would not work well at all since those keep the piston balanced!!!
nathanmeitzler 10 months ago
surprised that didn't bust the block out lol thats usually what happens when the dogbone breaks
fnaguitarplayer9 11 months ago
you have a blown engine. what a dumd vid.
marksalot2116 11 months ago
2 words , its fucked
roudyroy1 1 year ago
well , its not the con rod for the piston but im pretty sure it looks like a rod that comes from that counterweight over to the block to keep that counterweight from slammin around ... pretty sure
MrBrey1 1 year ago
@MrBrey1 exactly. Everyone keeps saying it's the con rod, but 1, it's way too small, 2 you can see when I pull the piston and conrod out, they're perfect
1skiinIan 1 year ago
I watched the video again and you are right.
I stand corrected.
PistolPete2 1 year ago
If the crankcase is not broken and the camshaft is okay,
then just remove the crankshaft and use a file to smooth
out the ridges where the rod goes. Then use fine sandpaper
polish it up some. Buy a new rod and bolt it to the crankshaft
while it is out of the motor and check and see how loose it is.
File the rod cap down until the rod fits snug to the crankshaft.
Re-assemble engine making sure the camshaft is in time. This is the cheap way to do it if you don't have much money.
PistolPete2 1 year ago
@PistolPete2 why whould I need a new rod? As you can see in the video, it is perfectly fine. It's the counterbalance rod that stops the counterwieght from hitting the block. Go google briggs and stratton's "Syncro balance" motors....
You don't need to lecture me how to rebuild engines. I've done plenty in my time. Go look at my vid where I rebuild my mach 1 670
1skiinIan 1 year ago
i have only seen the video to 1:25 so far and i can tell you that it has a brocken rod by the big chunck of metal you pulled out... well never mind... i wonder if it broke before and someone left that chunck in there
well nevermind on that too
8sixfeetunder 1 year ago
@8sixfeetunder i got it like this, and how many times do I need to tell people this, it's the rod for the counterweight that stops it from smashing into the block. go search brigs syncrobalance rod or counterwieght rod
1skiinIan 1 year ago
i have only seen the video to 1:25 so far and i can tell you that it has a brocken rod by the big chunck of metal you pulled out
8sixfeetunder 1 year ago
I accidentally tried to start my pop's lawn mower and I accidentally left the blades on while trying to start it. for some reason it won't start anymore. any ideas what I should do.
mb433 1 year ago
Why are you guys telling him to fix it. It's a run of the mill Briggs just get another one for 200bucks from Menards or somthing.
Dereks06 1 year ago
it might be possible to fix this engine, but concidering your knowledge of these things, i wouldnt try if i where you
TheEvanovitch 1 year ago
@TheEvanovitch why shouldnt he?
bobchessy 1 year ago
@bobchessy cuz its kind a complicated, you must know what to do or u only will make it worse, and he just doesnt know enough what hes doin
TheEvanovitch 1 year ago
@TheEvanovitch well we all started somewhere :D
bobchessy 1 year ago
@bobchessy i know, but we can make a blown engine worse, by making it unable to repair. but we all started somewhere indeed, but thats why i say, dont do it yourself, just watch someone else do it for you, so you can learn from it
TheEvanovitch 1 year ago
Comment removed
bobchessy 1 year ago
damn how did u break that haha
XxJareebxX 1 year ago
how much was this engine
bdog381 1 year ago
wher did u get this engine!
bdog381 1 year ago
i always call that piece the dogbone connecting rod, thats what there called when you buy racing lawn mower parts anyways, you can get them in billet aluminum that will not break!
fnaguitarplayer9 1 year ago
the wabulator shaft is broken
ozzyvanhalenrox 1 year ago
u broke it.......
roadrunnersrock57 1 year ago
@roadrunnersrock57 #LOL Jacob
ShadowPenguinPro 1 year ago
@ShadowPenguinPro and u would
roadrunnersrock57 1 year ago
you broke your piston rod its not blown
gibsonman8888 1 year ago
i think that first piece was the bottom of the connecting rod lol
Bamchucknorris 1 year ago
You know that big chunk you pulled out was your piston rod. That "THING" you were asking about was the very bottom of the rod that is (was) connected to the crank. Thats how the piston goes up and down.
cxbra 1 year ago
jesus somebody really had it in for that motor!!!!
superchase08 1 year ago
Do you know where I can get a 15hp cheap? lookin to rig it on a bike, oxy/acetaline
Peacemaker2027 1 year ago
@Peacemaker2027 naww man, but check your local classifieds and stuff. sometimes people sell really cheap when the engine works but there is something wrong with the tractor
1skiinIan 1 year ago
@1skiinIan that I can deal with.
Peacemaker2027 1 year ago
@1skiinIan he could use a lawnboy engine
christhetromboneguy 1 year ago
He's obviously not working on a fucking diesel.
Peacemaker2027 1 year ago
@Peacemaker2027 haha THAT YOU I was waiting for someone to say that
1skiinIan 1 year ago
@1skiinIan I don't like when ppl try and inflate their ego's
Peacemaker2027 1 year ago
The 16 hp B&S boxer engine have the same problem, i had 2 engines that broke.
Troelsfab 1 year ago
haha pulled a part of a syncro weight out OUCH my connecting rod bottom part blew up on me and shot a piece thru the block it was pretty amazing
walkingfreak 1 year ago
if u think that's a big piston check the ones on a diesel
bowhunternick12 1 year ago
no I mean big for a single briggs and lol yeah I've seen them lol they are big
1skiinIan 1 year ago
@1skiinIan ya there fukin huge
christhetromboneguy 1 year ago
you do know that on briggs and strattons, you are supposed to take flywheels off, then take cam and crankshaft out at same time...and you have to make sure you have your cam set right when reasembled.
SabresHockeyFan1993 1 year ago
you are mistaken, go do some research
1skiinIan 1 year ago
@SabresHockeyFan1993 WRONG you are mistaken my freind you can take off the piston and the cam and valve lifters without taking off the flywheel and pulling out the crank shaft
walkingfreak 1 year ago
duck tape should fix your rod
2605830 1 year ago 2
Interesting, never saw one of those synchro-balance links break before....
LDPosse 2 years ago
Not a big deal, did you fix it?
roboman79 2 years ago
the crank or the connecting rod im pretty sure but i could be rong
TheAtvGods 2 years ago
come on, just read what it says in the vid...
1skiinIan 2 years ago
Blowing engine:-(
PKMotoren 2 years ago
wow i noticed that you answered it at the end of the video. disregard my other post.
MultiKhaz 2 years ago
Its the connecting arm from the counterbalance. The balance weight connects to the engine block by a small 3 inch arm. Must have rev-ved it too high for it to break like that. Or just crappy manufacturing.
MultiKhaz 2 years ago
thats the top of your connecting rod
zbadass650 2 years ago
totally wrong
1skiinIan 2 years ago
its the rod that connects the counterweight to the lock allowing the counterweight rotate and move slightly while holding it far enough away frome the block to not cause knockng
kayteegirl108 2 years ago
it was the crank dumb ass
JamieXxxMuffins 2 years ago
nope, 0 points for you!!!!
it was the con rod connecting end to the crankshaft
caused by overtightening/sheared bolts!!!
foxdmulder 2 years ago
yea a tillotson but no small at all its actually one of the biggest they make....itll bring out more out of a 12 hp than any other carb ive ever seen
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
ya i know, those stock carbs briggs puts on those engines are really restrictive, especially if you are going higher up in the rpm band
1skiinIan 2 years ago
yes they are but if you are running say in a super stock or storck flahead class they do really well for what they are...i have a dual carb set up for my twin flathead engine with two of the briggs 12.5 walboro carbs one for each cyl...they are pretty wicked
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
ya, it would definately work good for a twin cyl to twin carb it.
1skiinIan 2 years ago
oh ive done it and made it happen lol...i have some good stuff id love to video but i dont have a cam corder anymore so i cant show off my awsome stuff to the world lol it kills me sometimes.....just like i have yet to see a good built up 5 hp briggs on here yet id love to put mine on here but oh well
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
ya man, you can squeeze a lot of hp out of those 5hp briggs. I've seen it. all high compression running on alky with costom ground welded cam, the works
1skiinIan 2 years ago
they way i ground cams there is no need for welding period, although you make the tappets .100 thousanths longer instead that way your camshafts temper isnt damaged i use a special cam from bullet cams...it has 312 degrees of duration @ .050 its pretty mean lol....calls for some stout valve springs
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
well it would be nice but i use the HRM6A tillotson carb for my engines, it has a 1.625 venturi and comes on older model skidoos but of course mine is new from toledo ohio out of the factory
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
yeah, I actually figured you were running something like a small mikuni or tillotson
1skiinIan 2 years ago
oh my god man...i race the 12.5 to 13.5 engines i need a light camshaft like that for my newest 13 hp engine im building
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
i still have the carb. it's in really nice condition. really low hours
1skiinIan 2 years ago
broken counter weight rod, a connecting rod is about 50 bucks and a counter wieght rod is like 25 but not hard to fix...ill buy the ultralight camshaft though lol
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
hole in block.... priceless, for everything else there is master card. merry christmas
1skiinIan 2 years ago
as a matter of fact i have welded up blocks 3 or 4 times and still keep on keepin on so not always lol
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
well got it for free and made 150 bucks in parts, not including startor and carb so i'm not really complaining lol
1skiinIan 2 years ago
good deal lol, see i race lawnmowers and all so i have been doin this for about 8 or 9 yrs....not bashin u about anything id love to have that camshaft
briggsracer12hp 2 years ago
too bad you weren't a lil earlier. I just threw it im my scrap metal pile a few months ago. no one bid on ebay. I would have givin it to you for shipping
1skiinIan 2 years ago
dude throw it away it is going to cost you alot of money to get it fix the rod is cracked!
waldameerrocks0258 2 years ago
counterweight rod, it's not the connecting rod retard's, but it hold's the back end of your crank in place.
fisher1034 2 years ago
instead of con rod just say "rod"
lespaul141414 2 years ago
i don't get it
MacsCanfly 2 years ago
hey what is that small white engine on the background looks nice !!!!!!!!!!!
19wael96 2 years ago
thats not bad at all.
BUNCHofxs 2 years ago
i can say that IC means industrial comercial. you might be able to reuse the block,but that depend mostly on any damage to the cylinder. a nick or scratch in the crank case wont hurt anything. if one of the valves were warped when everything went haywire then it probably damaged the valve sleeves also. all in all,i would just junk it for any usable parts.
BUNCHofxs 2 years ago
block had a hole in it. made almost 200 bucks profit off parts
1skiinIan 2 years ago
the counterweight rod broke! people who say that the rod broke watch the whole video! that big ass weight isnt supposed to just flop back and forth 3600 times a minute smacking the inside of the block!
highdeserthater 2 years ago
that little peice stops the harmonic balancer from slaming back and forth, atleast im pretty sur thats wut its for, i had a tecumseh on a snapper an i reved her to hi and that huge weight that u have in that engine flew out the side of the motor and it went about 100 ft down the road it scared the crap out of me cause that thing coulda took out my leg
hheywire 2 years ago
lol, u need a badge for that man. LOL just imagening that. I am rebuilding a 1969 8hp briggs right now, and before i rebuilt it i redlined the hell out of it. it didn't blow up, i am just polishing the valves, laping the valves bla bla bla. but it has a straght pipe and just thinking of that thing blowing up right infront of me going like 40 mph would suck so much.
the5445 2 years ago
how did u take the bottom peice off to get to the crank shaft?
67ovette 2 years ago
undo the many bolts holding it on
1skiinIan 2 years ago
Its not the rod that broke its the pistion that broke.
killerdeamonking 2 years ago
no, it's the guide rod for the "syncro ballancer" fancy name for brigg's name for a counter wight.
piston was perfect, ended up selling it to a happy costomer
1skiinIan 2 years ago
Yup, its called a ''con'' rod for short. (connection rod)
sexyspacemonkey 2 years ago
no, it's not the cenecting rod for the piston
1skiinIan 2 years ago
yup it sure was, the big thing with a hole in, the big end, that the con rod
sexyspacemonkey 2 years ago
nope
1skiinIan 2 years ago
yea the syncro ballancer i have like 3 engines that have these there not hard to work on at all
walkingfreak 2 years ago
a part of the newerschool govener or the oilslinger
mudpuppy4life 2 years ago
no.
1skiinIan 2 years ago
also at frame 3:36 if you pause it. that rod you took out makes it to where the synrco can move and it goes to the hole on the right of the screen it looks like your missing the pin that went there too. I rebuilt a 12.5hp briggs for a shop class in high school they're exactly the same
danmaneah65 2 years ago
yeah, I already know. figured it out when I was making the film. The bolt broke that holds the counterballancing rod to the block
1skiinIan 2 years ago
that piece that you first took out is part of what is called a harmonic balencecer its ment to cut down on the vibrations made from the crank the reason that broke is because it either got over revved or the whole assembly gave up
danmaneah65 2 years ago
this is what was in my corolla motor the first 5000 miles (worste car i ever had)
Kia0Sedona 2 years ago
the rod was broken first off and by the way in a small engine like that the piston cant kiss the valve. they both aim up. however you might want to check the head bcuz wen the rod broke it may of have hit and cracked the head
jlmoss03 2 years ago
it's not the connecting rod
1skiinIan 2 years ago
Did you fix it, because its fixable.
D342DIESEL 2 years ago
didn't feel like paying an aluminum welder to fix the huge crack in the block. it needs new counter wieghts and guide
1skiinIan 2 years ago
also, got it for free and ended up makling money off the starter, carb and head
1skiinIan 2 years ago
You probobly would have spent a lot of money.
D342DIESEL 2 years ago
i didnt see the full thing sory
13000rpm342 2 years ago
i think the valve and the piston kised
13000rpm342 2 years ago
I'll give you a head up...if that piece is broke then chances are the top side bearing is wore out and giving to much play..when that piece breaks its a VERY good sign thats what has happend...also by top side I mean where the crank goes thru into the flywheel...its a very common problem and once that has happend you'll just have to find a different block to use you parts in....good luck!
Chevypower265 2 years ago
Comment removed
seanrodgerss14 2 years ago
good job,I'm 47 and this is so much fun to watch Thank you.
morfin1 2 years ago
is this off a murray riding lawnmower right? cuz i think i have the same motor lol.
megalord299 3 years ago
it looks fine to me just take out the balancer and run it till it dies works for me :D or some times i just take the cover off and take out the metal chunks and put it back and run it till i dies
DRNEGOLICIS 3 years ago
with a huge crack in the block? I don't think so buddy
1skiinIan 3 years ago
sure why not crack in the block dont hurt any thing to run it just duck tape it works for me i mean its trash any way might as well use it all up
DRNEGOLICIS 3 years ago
sold the crank for 100, the conecting rod, piston and rings for 40, the starter for 60, the coil for 10. that's why not.
need a flywheel? lol
1skiinIan 3 years ago
i like the old 3HP you have.
V8Jagnut 3 years ago
me too :D
1skiinIan 3 years ago
sold the crank for a 100 dollars? ha i got piles of the pieces of shit motors laying around the house damn i need to be living where ur at hell i give 25 bucks for one that was running great and its sitting in my yard collecting rain water ha thats crazy
bighead29058 3 years ago
something looks broken to me haha
lilansapach 3 years ago
how the hell did u break the syndro balance portion of the engine? lol
NRP1991 3 years ago
that's what I asked the person that gave ne the engine and tractor
1skiinIan 3 years ago
Canadians are so GAY!
redmight93 3 years ago
only you would know the gay ones.
I'm sure The US has some pretty homosexual people too
1skiinIan 3 years ago
ya thats right
8tyman8 3 years ago
fuck you
imarelebored1 3 years ago
mate id say just buy new piston and rods inspect the case if any hairline crack throw it out crack get bigger it explode cheers
simmo595 3 years ago
are you blind? read the fucking comments. how many times do I have to say this. there is a crack in the block and the syncrobalance rod is shattered. there is nothing wrong with the connecting rod or piston.
1skiinIan 3 years ago
dude your engine is gone ok
uther56 3 years ago
no fucking shit. is there any other obvious things you would like to restate?
1skiinIan 3 years ago
the connecting rod is fucked. dont waste time or money on fixing that, it would be too much work and wouldnt be worth it.
Grandview7430 3 years ago
wrong. it is the sincrobalance rod, not the connecting rod. and no shit, i'm not rebuilding, I found a crack in the block
1skiinIan 3 years ago
Any more videos?
Smallgasengine1 3 years ago
any more videos!!?? LOL bah, do you guys like em that much? it's a little slow for vids right now as it is very cold in canada. I'll be posting some snowmobile vids soon. I guess, If you guys like them...
1skiinIan 3 years ago
cyncro balance rod maybe?not sure
powerbandthriller495 3 years ago
yup. i dodn't know at fist because it had completely shattered and I couldn't figure out where it used to be.
1skiinIan 3 years ago
yea do you think that happened because of the previous owner had not put oil in it, or ran out and didnt cahnge it, man some people are dumasses,lol
powerbandthriller495 3 years ago
no, I think it may have been from reving the engine too high. sometimes those employees don't set the govornors right I guess. I got the whole tractor for free, and it was VERY new
1skiinIan 3 years ago
piston is broak
ballsniff13 3 years ago
you are totaly wrong
1skiinIan 3 years ago
thats a connecting rod for the syncro balance
chelseashawt 3 years ago
Nicely done video!!
99minerkc 3 years ago
That part is the syncronisor rod. It's what ancors the syncronisers to the inside of the block like an ancor so they dont wiggle all over the place but at the same time rod moving with the syncronisor. That problem there is caused by over reving the engine. Thats operator error. Not the engines fault. I wish some people wouldnt talk down of briggs. They've built engines for 80 plus years and most problems are operator error or bad maintenence. No engine is bullet or maintenence proof.
VintageClassic1 3 years ago 2
that part you said you didnt know what it was
i bet it has somthing to do with you oil sys
i know how briggs did the oil sys on the 13hps but,,,i couldnt really see it well but thats just a gess i made...
paulbreor 3 years ago
That's a Briggs for you. I wouldn't bother fixing it because you'll spend more to get it and keep it running correctly than you would buying a Honda.
DanielJaegerFilms 3 years ago
UMMM NO WAY MY 1982 BRIGGS STILL RUNS AND MY 2007 Honda IS FUCKED IT BURNES OIL ALL THE FUCKING TIME ITS A GCV 135 4.5 HP OHC I GOT IT BECAUSE IT WAS OHC GOOD ON FULL ETC BUT MY OLD ONE FROM 1982 STILL RUNS GOOD FUCK Honda
KRCVIDS 3 years ago 4
You and I both know that Hondas in the same family are much better than Briggs. that's why all the industrial and professional euqipment use them.
DanielJaegerFilms 3 years ago
DanielJaegerFilms couldn't be more right. if everyone gave honda a chance, it would be the new briggs. did you check out my other hondas DanielJaegerFilms?
by the way, I am no longer rebuilding it. I found a crack in the block and the counter wieghts need to be replaced along with the mini rod that holds them in place, and the bolt broke that holds the counterwirght rod in place, so it needs to be re taped. it just isn't worth it
1skiinIan 3 years ago