@crapmunky99 Aw... dang all this gundam stuff makes me sick... I never thought gundam would be THIS complicated.... Ahh ill still make it though... I think it'll be enjoyable to make my double 0 raiser exia model XD
No, you'd have to be pushing down really hard for a wooden toothpick to scratch plastic.
If you're panel lining a part that you've painted, apply a gloss top coat to the part before you line it. That will make it easier to remove the excess lining, and you won't scratch the paint, as long as you're careful.
@crapmunky99 Thank you very much! I still haven't gotten to paint a kit yet, but I am gathering as much info as I can. I'm glad there are so many different ways to go about doing it. Exciting!
You can use them if you want, but I prefer using paint.
With paint, I can use whatever colors I have available, and I don't have to worry about the marker tips wearing down or drying up. Plus I find paint to leave cleaner looking results most of the time.
You can also thin down the paint for easier application.
It can look good on the right model, but if you want the lines cleaner you can always moisten the toothpick slightly to help remove whatever shading you don't want.
I know, if you've already painted the piece, sometimes you can go back along the line, pressing extremely lightly, with a rag or cloth that's gotten a SMALL amount of thinner or other paint removing substance on it, you can remove the paint that way too. I haven't tested it with acrylics, but I know this works well with enamel based paints. I'd also advise trying to avoid getting large amounts of paint on the paints surface since this does tend to remove some of the existing paint.
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What I usually do is take Testor's Flat Black, Slap it on the panel lines (I always use black. Gray is overrated) And then wipe up the extra's with Paper towel. Considering I don't paint my models (Except for small details) It makes a pretty nice effect.
Sounds like an interesting way to create some smudged dirt/weathered effects along the lines. If I'm ever looking to do achieve that effect, I'll keep this method in mind.
In the case of this video, however, I was going for very sharp and smooth lines.
I also have another method where I use thinned down paint "washes" for panel lining, which is another good way to get pretty smooth results.
But anyway, thanks for the tip, and thanks for watching.
this guy doesnt know what hes talking about. nice half ass job man try painting it and then panel line it with real model paint! apple barrel? dude thats so lame where did you buy that paint a craft store that my aunt goes to lol dude? what the hell your wasting your money and time.
Have you ever tried to use that theory on "painted" models or pieces? I would like to know becuase im going to do that (and to be specific im going to spray paint with tamiya)
I'd only recommend doing it this way on an unpainted kit, like in the video.
For painted kits, thin the paint down to an ink-like consistency, touch your brush to the panel lines and they'll just draw themselves. Use a Q-tip for cleanup.
But for that, it's best to use real hobby paints; Testors and Tamiya enamels and acrylics. They are different than these paints, and will flow down the lines much better than these water-thinned paints.
I find it can be harder to panel line when the model is all put together, because certain areas will become harder to reach when everything is assembled.
Panel lining the parts while still unassembled allows you to access every area of the piece you need to without trouble.
I feel lining markers provide sloppy results, plus they're only available in black and gray.
Since this video was posted, I've found more effective ways of panel lining.
If I'm not using this method, I use a different method called inking.
You thin the paint down until it's nearly a liquid. Then you touch the brush to the panel lines and the paint flows along the indent, drawing the lines by themeselves.
Just use a Q-tip or toothpick to remove the excess, and you're good to go.
i have question, I see your method looks really well, but how do you scrub it away with a toothbrush if its already dry? and will the same thing work if I use a gundam pens?
The kind of paint I'm using is very easy to be removed from bare plastic, even after drying. It's a waterbased acrylic paint for arts and crafts, not actual model paint.
It's different from the kind of paint inside of Gundam Markers, so I'm not sure if this same method would work with them.
If you do use Gundam Markers, there are better methods for how to use them than this, and there are lots of tutorials that show them on YouTube.
I haven't panel lined many painted kits, but the one or two times I have, I've done it after painting.
Still I don't think it's best to use this method on an already painted kit. This method is intended more for bare plastic.
For a painted kit, I recommend thinning the panel lining paint down and letting it flow down the lines. Then use a Q-tip to gently clean up any excess that runs outside the lines.
Finally!!! someone who uses this paint. I use this paint cause it makes the panel lines look great, Also they can gick a shading to burning effect on the plastic. It works.
Clear matte probably would work, but since the matte finish is rougher, it may be harder to clean up the excess panel lining paint. It could become embedded into the rougher surface and may need some water and/or light scrubbing to be removed...
A gloss finish is smoother, and so the lining paint has less texture to stick to, and it can be removed more easily.
Used a similar method to this but with a thin line sharpie. Cleaned up nicely with pencil eraser and the results looked pretty crisp. Latest project was Johnny Riddens MS-06R and currently moving on to an RGM-79(G) from 08th MS Team.
It depends on the model, and on the specific piece. Size & scale doesn't matter; it's whether there are details molded into the plastic. Where there are molded panel lines or other details where the paint can fill into, this method will work.
But still, I mentioned that this method is best for bare plastic parts.
You can try it on painted parts, but the panel lining paint will probably smudge all over the base coat of paint. However, you can clean the smudging with a damp cloth/Q-tip if your careful.
I have some other tutorial videos on my chanel that show better methods of panel lining for painted parts.
Watch my "HGUC Sazabi Tutorial" videos to see them.
I had a model airplane that i painted over with red alcohol based acrylic paint then i used green water based acrylic paint to "panel line". Basically I was bored and the thing was damaged so I used it as a test kit. So anyways I used a clorox antibacterial wet wipe and wiped away the excess green paint and it came out looking pretty good. The paint inside the lines never wiped away. Also the red base paint stayed perfectly intact, none of it wiped off.
hey this is really great! thanks. I'm gonna try this before i try painting panels for my first model. did it work after you painted the panel with a coat?
This method is best for unpainted models. For parts that you've already painted, you could use a variation on this method in which you thin down the panel lining paint with water, until it has the consistency of ink. Then, apply it with a brush to the panel lines, and the lines should "draw" themselves (they may need a little help to move down the lines in some cases). After they dry, use a Q-tip or your finger to wipe away the excess. Toothpicks work too if you're careful.
yo bro i suck at panel linin and ur way sounds good but the part where you sorta scratch it off it wont scratch the plastic will it? and im gonna like take the nubs comepletely and sand it down and spray paint and then panel line so will it work just msg me back bro
no i mean gundam AND hybrid armored core not like them together it wouldnt work they wouldnt fir but ill show of my armored core when im done practicing and have money for them and for supplies
lol its fine but yea it wwould they should make gundam variable infinity so like a trip gn drive on exia or something but the problem is money like the kits i want are 39.95 to 59.95 and im want like three or four to customize i might not even get them if i get no money
Could you thin the apple barrel paint and use it like a wash? and what if you paint a part with tamiya acrylic and once it cures decide to use this method, would there be problems? would you have to topcoat first? thanks
I assume you could use it as a wash, if it's thinned down.
I wouldn't recommend using this method on parts that are already painted, though. It can smudge the panel lining paint into the base coat, and can be difficult to remove without damaging the base coat. You might be able to get away with it if you put down a protective gloss coat before panel lining. This will alow the excess panel line paint to be removed smoothly without damaging the base coat.
@crapmunky99 oo ok thanks, thats what I meant, to try to use it as a wash after gloss coating. I think I might try it with oil paints and turpentine if i can find some.
Hey munky, I'm having some trouble with panel lining my RX-78-2 one year war animation color model. I'm stuck on the head (don't even get me started on the beam sabers) because there are tons of little panel lines that just won't take. I let them dry, I even try the wipe away trick. I go over them again and again hoping for it to stay and it never does.I could just use some tips, I mean I watched you building the Zeta Gundam and I'm really impressed but mine don't end up looking like that.
Sounds to me like the grooves in the plastic are too shallow. My solution to the problem is to take a hobby knife or a pin (or a modeler's scribing tool) and run it along the grooves. This makes the grooves deeper which means your lining will not be as easily removed when you clean up the excess.
Hey I have a question. Your tutorial is excellent, but I have this gundam that has fully red feet. Do you remember the HG 1/144 Wing Zero Custom? And you know how the gundam feet clearly have White and red. It's fully red. Do you have any tips on how to paint part of it white?
Painting white on a red part can be tricky. It always turns out looking a little pink, right? I'd suggest getting a little jar of primer, and apply a coat onto the area of the part you want to paint white. Primer will allow the white paint to go on more smoothly and will keep most of the red plastic from showing through.
@crapmunky99 Ah. Thanks for the tip. I haven't thought of using primer. I generally don't handle paints at all so I don't know very much. Thanks again.
Hey I noticed, if you already painted the model you can use a gundam marker and push down so it releases a dot of paint and of course hit somewhere near the top of the panel line and it'll just flow on down with the panel line, then take a napkin and softly removed the giant blob and it comes off, even after painting a base coat :D!
If it works for you, then by all means use that method. There can be more than one approach to lining a model, especially given different circumstances.
hahaha. your little comments are funny bro. but awesome tip. really helpful for those whose afraid to use paint for their expensive, awesome model kit. 10 out of 10. and the paints, are cheap in walmart.
i'm watching it again. but you know what, i got some paints from walmart, its called FolkArt and I guess its the same thing like your paints. but bro, you should make more tutorial about paneling, but this time, the piece of the gundam is small, perhaps his hips or head. but there are all same thing I guess.
Yes, FolkArt is basically the same kind of paint as I use here. It will work the same way.
Perhaps I'll do more tutorials in the future, but, in case you haven't seen it, check out my MG Zeta Gundam Ver 2.0 Work in Progress Video - Part 2. In it you'll see some clips that show again how I do my panel lining, only I do it much faster than I do in this video.
thanks for the help, now I can use my FolkArt paints for panelling. I mean, it does looks the same as your paint and as this video shows, it is easy to remove the unwanted paints. thanks again, I'll sure watch the other vids u uploaded.
hey ppls, i heard someone says that technical pen or mechanical pen can do the trick but i want to find out which kind of normal pen(those you use in school, as i super duper broke everytime expect when i buy models lols(sry english somewhat bad)) can be used to pancel line?
I personally wouldn't use any kind of pen for panel lining. If you really want convienience, though, try a fine tip Gundam Marker instead; that would probably work better than any pen.
But that said, I personally would still rather use paints and a brush to do my lining.
Cool tutorial. I usually use sharpie ultra fine point and an eraser. But will give this a try especially when the fine point can't get inside those grooves.
and + tamiya acrylic paints aren't thinned yet, it needs tamiya's thinner to thin the paint. And the paint that your using right now is already thinned for you.
Right, but I find, actually, if you thin down these acryilics a little, or even if you just don't let it dry, you can just wipe it away for a clean line. It works pretty well, and you only need water to clean up.
Anyway, thanks for the tips, and of course, for watching.
all acrylic paints are water based and are the most weakest type of paints. I recommended to use enamel paints which are oil based, so it could run down the lines better and faster. But it doesn't really matter. You still could stick with what your doing.
r u sure ur using the right kind of paint??? tell me the paint that u were using, then I could might tell u why. U might have been painting ur whole plastic piece with acrylic paint and go a head with an enamel paint to do some small details such as panel lining or etc. If ur doing that then ur actually killing the acrylic paint because enamel kills acrylic. U should know that water doesn't mix with oil.
I use Lacquers to paint my whole plastic model then use enamels for panel lining. THis way I won't kill my surfaces. Acrylics which are the weakest then comes enamels then lacquers.
Thats the order from weakest to strongest. Always use the strongest to weakest because if u do the opposite then ur killing the precious paint. U understand?
That was enlightening, to say the least! XD Ah, but I noticed scraping with toothpicks leave those smudge-lines-thingy on the plastic? How do you clean that up? O:
No, because the Tamiya is much more durable, so if you let it dry, a toothpick alone won't be able to remove it; It'll scratch and gunk up the plastic.
You might, however be able to dip the toothpick in some thinner (alchohol if it's Tamiya acrylic) so that the paint softens up enough for the toothpick to remove the paint.
But, for this method, the craft acrylic (waterbased) paints work best, so I'd recommend using them instead.
Haha i absolutely worship you now. I went ahead and bought black and pewter grey colors of the Apple Barrel today. They were only 99 cents each so I thought "what do I have to lose?" Now, I have a beautifully panel lined RX 78-2 all thanks to your great tutorial! Thank you very much!
I never use them for lining. I've used a gold one before for coloring whole parts (which can work pretty well actually), but I've seen the results given by lining with Gundam Markers, and I find it to be rather sloppy looking.
So then, I either do my lining this way, or by process of "inking" (or whatever it's called) in which you thin the paint down and touch the brush to the lines. The paint flows along the lines, cleanly and neatly. Just wipe away the excess; no worry of scraping paint.
Can you use any Acrylic paint to panel line? I have a 24 set of acrylic Waterbased paints. I checked my hardware store and they had almost every color of the Apple Barrel Paint there but I was wondering if I could just use the ones I have. I don't mind spending the $1.50 on the Apple Barrel paint though. Thanks and I love your videos ;]
Thanks for the compliment, and for watching! It's always nice to know my "work" is appreciated.
Anyway, as long as it's waterbased, this method will work with any brand of Acrylic paint.
But certain acrylic paints like Tamiya or Testors, though, are alchohol based, so they dry faster and differently (more durable) than the waterbased Apple Barrel paint. That means you won't be able to remove the excess like I do in this video if it dries.
i tried this on my 1/144 zaku and it took forever, not to mention looked worse then when i used my fine tipped gundam markers on my zaku ll, plus i think if it was black, or a darker grey it would look better, in my opinion of course
This is just how I do it. It might not be the most convienient method for you and may not work for every kit.
If the lines are shallow to begin with, it's going to be a lot harder to do it this way.
If the model is already painted, that too can make this method not as effective. In that scenario, don't wait for the paint to dry; wipe it off right away so it doesn't stick.
I just thought people would like an alternative to Gundam Markers, which can leave sloppy looking results.
dude im so doing that, I was gonna buy gundam markers, forget that, I have acrylic paints hanging around, just hope DecorsArt Acrylic paint rubs off easily with a toothpick
Thanks! Glad you like the tip. If you're unsure about how your paint will stick, be sure to test it out on a spare piece of model plastic (like the left over part trees or something) before you try this on an actual model part. Thanks for watching!
Pens might work, but I wouldn't recommend them. Most inks don't dry very well on plastic, so it's better to use some kind of paint, whether it's a proper model paint, or something more like what I use in the video. I invite you to try my method, but the choice is yours; just do what works best for you. Thanks for watching!
Doesn't the toothpick scratch the kit and the fine residue of paint seen from the light at 4:59 leave a mark on your kit? or is this not substantial,
Because you can do the same with a gundam marker + cotton buds + gundam marker removal pen (only in dire situations) without the risk of scratching and the hassle of getting paint out etc.
Maybe a little, but you'd never notice it unless you look extremely carefully. And any paint-job or lining work is going to have flaws if you're looking that closely. What I like about this method is that you don't need a lot of stuff and/or prep work; you just put the paint in the lines, wait, and remove the excess. It won't damage the plastic, and even if you do mess up, you don't need thinners and all that to fix the problem, just a toothpick. Anyway, thanks for watching!
yeah that's why i'm using gundam markers now, they do exactly that without the fuss of a paint pot. plus they come in a pretty wide range of colours and i'm going to try using them to fix up file markings.
can you do an advanced vid on dry decals please? I'm still having trouble with them for curved surface aplication.
I usually don't use decals on my models, so unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to offer much advice on how to properly apply them. And curved surfaces really are the worst; I have no idea how to get them on the part smoothly. Sorry. But, you might have more luck with some of the other big names in YouTube Gunpla; 2Old4Toys, Vegeta8259, Prime92, Stryderprime, and a few others. Just check the list of people who I've subscribed to, I'm pretty sure one of them will be able to help you.
Everybody has their ways. I make a black acrylic Wash all from Tamiya. Tamiya Flat Black mixed with a little bit of Thinner. Then I get a Super Fine Detail Brush and let the wash slide down into the panel lines. Then I dry it and get a Q-Tip or naphkin and put a dab of Thinner on it and wipe the excess dried parts off and magically it does NOT remove your beautiful Panel line blackness. It only removes the dots you made when you were putting the wash in the panel lines.
That's called "inking", I think. It's a good method, and is a good alternative when my technique doesn't work, such as with painted models. Mine works well for unpainted kits, but yours works well with painted and unpainted kits. But, since I rarely ever painted my models, I was able to get by with this method. It's just the way I learned to do it on my own with the only paints I had to work with.
Yeah but why would you do your techinique?? I mean Acrylic Paint and Thinner from Tamiya isn't to expensive and it is really easy to make your own wash. The process is simple and from what I hear or what I learned on Japanese Puramo Tsukurou TV shows. The pro plamodelers use the techinique I mentioned and it is fairly easy. Give it a try. Trust me you will feel like a modeling pro when you do this techinique.
The main reason I use the technique that I do, is because the paint is a lot easier for me to find, and it's a much better value for $ than the Tamiya. No, it doesn't work for everything, and I'm sure I'll eventually use your technique for a project in the future. But, for me, for now, with what I have, my way works fine. Nothing against your idea...
You can average out on spending up to 6-8 dollars on the whole washing. That includes a Flat Black Tamiya, Bottle Thinner Tamiya, A second bottle of Thinnder. That should come up to 8 bucks with tax. If 8 dollars is expensive then Ionno what isn't. If you don't have a local hobbystore then look for one. If not then buy it online and it is cheap but shipping is in the way. However if say like you buy your products from Michaels. They sell Revell paints and models. You can use their product.
It's not so much that the Tamiya is too expensive for me, but it's just that you only get a little with each bottle. A bottle of my paint can easily last over a year, depending on it's useage. I also like having the option of using the many different colors that I have on hand, including neon. But anyway, what type of thinner does Tamiya use? (As in, what is the base chemical in that thinner?) I'd like to see If I could get it in a different brand or store, and possibly get more for the money.
I actually found that out before when I was working on my 00 Raiser. I needed thinner for the clear Tamiya paints, so I tried rubbing alchohol (isopropyl, or whatever) & it worked. But thanks anyway.
Really? I never thought of that. I've got a few popsicle sticks laying around, so I'll give it a try on the next kit I build. Thanks for the tip & thanks for watching!
Yo , i am still a beginner in modeling , so i am learning how to airbrush , ok i just wonder to ask you , if my plastic is already painted with paint and when i do my lining with your way , scratching here and there , will my paint comes off ? thanks , nice video
If the surface is already painted, and you use this method to create the panel lines, there is a chance that the paint will accumulate scratches and/or smudges. If you're VERY gentle when you remove the excess lining paint, you might be able to avoid these problems. A glossy surface will allow the excess to be removed smoothly and easily, but may leave scratches if not done carefully. Dull surfaces don't show scratches as much as gloss but may leave smudges when removing the excess lining paint.
I figured that was the case. I never tried it, so I wasn't sure if it would work or not. I was hoping it would work on both painted and unpainted surfaces, but it makes sense why it wouldn't. This paint isn't too abrasive (it is completely waterbased, after all), but it would probably be the scraping which would damage the base coat. Too bad...
your method is very good depending on the application(case in point). i am going to get some of that craft paint and see it works well on painted surfaces.paints like tamyia sticks to good to rub it off of a painted surface.
I recently practiced this on a part with Tamiya acrylics already applied. If you're VERY careful and gentle with the toothpick, you can even remove excess paint (the craft paint I use for lining) from Tamiya clear (candy, translucent, etc.) paints without scratching the finish. I found this out when I was working on my HG 1/144 00 Raiser kit. I needed to paint clear blue and a grey color right next to each other, and inevitably, the grey ran onto the blue. I'm quite relieved that it didn't ruin!
This just seems like too much effort when you can do it in a lot less time if you use really thin paint.
Get yourself some enamel paint and enamel thinner, thin the paint down so it's pretty thin but the still opaque, then use a paintbrush and touch it to the panel line. The paint will run down the panel line by capillary action.
I've heard of that before. It's known as "inking" in some circles. But I think it often leaves sloppy results if you're not careful, and if the paint isn't just right. Anyway, I'm wary of brush enamels. They need their own kind of thinner (which I'd need to buy), and it's hard to clean, which can potentially ruin a good brush, or paint job. So, it's still a lot of work, but just through a different method. The same technique would probably work with my waterbased paint, but without the risks.
It can be sloppy only if you're incredibly sloppy. You can use enamel thinner, which is extremely cheap. I'm guessing by your accent that you're American. You could find white spirits (which can be used to thin enamel paints) from Wal Mart for really cheap.
I have an accent? Never really thought I did. Guess that must be a relative thing... xD Well anyway, I'll keep your advice in mind. Maybe I'll give enamels a try sometime. Thanks for watching!
These paints are pretty easy to work with, but I find they scrape off the plastic too easily. Not very appropriate when painting large parts, but very useful for panel lines. Thanks for watching!
gundam markers are good but sometimes like ordinary pens,their not that durable.i bought like 2 of them and the other one's tip got damaged easily.try mitsubishi pin oil based unk marking pen.same result,not as expensive.now for my question,hehehe!!do you know anymore paint with the same result?cause what your using,i dont think theres one here in my country.any substitute?
Well, the paints I use in this video are waterbased craft acrylics. I can't be sure what brands of paint you'd have in your country, so I'd recommend looking for an arts and crafts store in your area. They would probably have this type of paint in one brand or another. Thanks for watching!
same. what i did was i took the brocken pen and took the metal thing out. i cut the thin tube(the tip), which leaves the a round cylinder and then i placed it in my gundam dynames sniper gun. this will make ur gundams have metal barrels
Would you mind explaining me what lining does and if its important?
jajajaja669 3 days ago
@jajajaja669
Most models come with imprinted details molded into the plastic parts.
What lining does is give those details some added depth, and makes them stand out on the model.
In short, panel lining makes your model look better.
Without lining, a model can look rather plain or boring; much more "toy-like".
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 3 days ago
@crapmunky99 Aw... dang all this gundam stuff makes me sick... I never thought gundam would be THIS complicated.... Ahh ill still make it though... I think it'll be enjoyable to make my double 0 raiser exia model XD
jajajaja669 3 days ago
Does this scratch the piece at all?
tranceotaku 1 week ago
@tranceotaku
No, you'd have to be pushing down really hard for a wooden toothpick to scratch plastic.
If you're panel lining a part that you've painted, apply a gloss top coat to the part before you line it. That will make it easier to remove the excess lining, and you won't scratch the paint, as long as you're careful.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 week ago
@crapmunky99 Thank you very much! I still haven't gotten to paint a kit yet, but I am gathering as much info as I can. I'm glad there are so many different ways to go about doing it. Exciting!
tranceotaku 6 days ago
why not use the gundam micro pen?
hoboslamborghini 1 month ago
@hoboslamborghini
You can use them if you want, but I prefer using paint.
With paint, I can use whatever colors I have available, and I don't have to worry about the marker tips wearing down or drying up. Plus I find paint to leave cleaner looking results most of the time.
You can also thin down the paint for easier application.
Anyway, thanks for watching.
crapmunky99 1 month ago
nice technique, it also gives it a small shading effect
onelasttitan 1 month ago
@onelasttitan
That seems to happen for me too sometimes.
It can look good on the right model, but if you want the lines cleaner you can always moisten the toothpick slightly to help remove whatever shading you don't want.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 month ago
I know, if you've already painted the piece, sometimes you can go back along the line, pressing extremely lightly, with a rag or cloth that's gotten a SMALL amount of thinner or other paint removing substance on it, you can remove the paint that way too. I haven't tested it with acrylics, but I know this works well with enamel based paints. I'd also advise trying to avoid getting large amounts of paint on the paints surface since this does tend to remove some of the existing paint.
camomanlink 1 month ago
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marionetemanJ 2 months ago
What I usually do is take Testor's Flat Black, Slap it on the panel lines (I always use black. Gray is overrated) And then wipe up the extra's with Paper towel. Considering I don't paint my models (Except for small details) It makes a pretty nice effect.
iatealice 2 months ago
@iatealice
Sounds like an interesting way to create some smudged dirt/weathered effects along the lines. If I'm ever looking to do achieve that effect, I'll keep this method in mind.
In the case of this video, however, I was going for very sharp and smooth lines.
I also have another method where I use thinned down paint "washes" for panel lining, which is another good way to get pretty smooth results.
But anyway, thanks for the tip, and thanks for watching.
crapmunky99 2 months ago
this guy doesnt know what hes talking about. nice half ass job man try painting it and then panel line it with real model paint! apple barrel? dude thats so lame where did you buy that paint a craft store that my aunt goes to lol dude? what the hell your wasting your money and time.
StonyRabbit 4 months ago
@StonyRabbit
Hey, troll-dick.
This video was posted two years ago when I had limited experience and resources.
Even so it worked fine.
Since then, I've picked up some new methods and paints, and if you'd taken 5 seconds to look at my other videos, you might have seen that.
If you know so much better, then why not post a video of one of your many amazing masterpieces?
After all, being as arrogant as you are, you ought to have the skill to back it up.
If not, then kindly shut the hell up.
crapmunky99 4 months ago 7
This works incredibly well as long as the channels are deep enough.
Thank you!
G11354 5 months ago
@G11354
You're welcome.
Glad it works for you.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 5 months ago
Have you ever tried to use that theory on "painted" models or pieces? I would like to know becuase im going to do that (and to be specific im going to spray paint with tamiya)
DevilSlayer911 7 months ago
@DevilSlayer911
I'd only recommend doing it this way on an unpainted kit, like in the video.
For painted kits, thin the paint down to an ink-like consistency, touch your brush to the panel lines and they'll just draw themselves. Use a Q-tip for cleanup.
But for that, it's best to use real hobby paints; Testors and Tamiya enamels and acrylics. They are different than these paints, and will flow down the lines much better than these water-thinned paints.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 7 months ago
@crapmunky99 Thank you i will test that out ^^
DevilSlayer911 7 months ago
do you panel line it before or after you build it?
HaruteX 7 months ago
@HaruteX
I usually panel line my kits as I build them.
I find it can be harder to panel line when the model is all put together, because certain areas will become harder to reach when everything is assembled.
Panel lining the parts while still unassembled allows you to access every area of the piece you need to without trouble.
Anyway, thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 7 months ago
for a second i thought that was a vongola ring on your finger, and thanks for the tutorial
HaruteX 7 months ago
Do u use this method on white plastic parts? And could I use gloss black as well (from apple barrel)?
dedwilson 8 months ago
@dedwilson
Yeah, you can use it on any color plastic with any color paint.
I just prefer gray because it gives a more subtle and realistic look.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 8 months ago
i wouldnt use a tooth pick because i paint my whole gundam
but maybe a q-tip
CarlLewisC 8 months ago
@CarlLewisC
It's best to thin the paint a little for panel lining, and in that case, q-tips would work.
However, they might soak up the paint out of the lines if the paint is too thin, so be careful when cleaning up.
Anyway, thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 8 months ago
try to buy a few gundam markers, they work wonders ... until they dry out : /
nexivdr 8 months ago
@nexivdr
I feel lining markers provide sloppy results, plus they're only available in black and gray.
Since this video was posted, I've found more effective ways of panel lining.
If I'm not using this method, I use a different method called inking.
You thin the paint down until it's nearly a liquid. Then you touch the brush to the panel lines and the paint flows along the indent, drawing the lines by themeselves.
Just use a Q-tip or toothpick to remove the excess, and you're good to go.
crapmunky99 8 months ago
i have question, I see your method looks really well, but how do you scrub it away with a toothbrush if its already dry? and will the same thing work if I use a gundam pens?
KidsToon 8 months ago
@KidsToon
The kind of paint I'm using is very easy to be removed from bare plastic, even after drying. It's a waterbased acrylic paint for arts and crafts, not actual model paint.
It's different from the kind of paint inside of Gundam Markers, so I'm not sure if this same method would work with them.
If you do use Gundam Markers, there are better methods for how to use them than this, and there are lots of tutorials that show them on YouTube.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 8 months ago
crapmunky
Do you have any advice on panel lining with a spray painted kit, like do you panel line before or after you put the paint on
SpiritsRise 9 months ago
@SpiritsRise
I haven't panel lined many painted kits, but the one or two times I have, I've done it after painting.
Still I don't think it's best to use this method on an already painted kit. This method is intended more for bare plastic.
For a painted kit, I recommend thinning the panel lining paint down and letting it flow down the lines. Then use a Q-tip to gently clean up any excess that runs outside the lines.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 9 months ago
Well good tip if you like the stock paint and dont airbrush. Super thinned oil is the way to go.
LobsterMustache 9 months ago
@LobsterMustache
Yeah, I did this a long time ago, so I've picked up some other methods since then.
Still, this does work pretty good for bare plastic.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 9 months ago
Finally!!! someone who uses this paint. I use this paint cause it makes the panel lines look great, Also they can gick a shading to burning effect on the plastic. It works.
3V4N3ND3R 11 months ago
@3V4N3ND3R
Glad it works for you too!
You can also thin it down (very lightly) and wipe it away while still wet for faster lining. (Works best on smaller areas)
I demonstrate this and some other techniques I know in a series of videos called "HGUC Sazabi Tutorials"
I have them all arranged in a playlist on my channel, so check it out if you're interested.
Anyway, thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 11 months ago
good vid (Y)
could sound more cheerful though :L :)
pierrespringuel 1 year ago
@pierrespringuel
Cheerful...?
Well, I don't know if I was exactly 'cheerful' when I shot this, but I wasn't feeling down, or anything.
Anyway, thanks for watching!
:)
crapmunky99 1 year ago
Can I use Clear Matte acrylic instead of Glossy? I don't want to purchase 2 sprays if I want my final product to be matte anyways.
Thanks to those that reply.
eclipse245 1 year ago
@eclipse245
Clear matte probably would work, but since the matte finish is rougher, it may be harder to clean up the excess panel lining paint. It could become embedded into the rougher surface and may need some water and/or light scrubbing to be removed...
A gloss finish is smoother, and so the lining paint has less texture to stick to, and it can be removed more easily.
It's up to you which one you want to use.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99 Thanks man. Sounds good. Probably still going for the Matte though. I want a dirty look. Building an Mi-24
eclipse245 1 year ago
Used a similar method to this but with a thin line sharpie. Cleaned up nicely with pencil eraser and the results looked pretty crisp. Latest project was Johnny Riddens MS-06R and currently moving on to an RGM-79(G) from 08th MS Team.
geeknproud2110 1 year ago
@geeknproud2110
If that works for you, then do that instead.
Since I posted this video, I've come up with some other similar, but easier methods for panel lining, and I have videos up that demonstrate them.
Check out my series of HG Sazabi Tutorials if you want to know more.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
question,does it work the same way on super small parts like on the smaller 17 dollar gundams?
digimonFTW22456 1 year ago
@digimonFTW22456
It depends on the model, and on the specific piece. Size & scale doesn't matter; it's whether there are details molded into the plastic. Where there are molded panel lines or other details where the paint can fill into, this method will work.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
Won't the base paint be scratched off if you rub it with something hard?
cilicon 1 year ago
@cilicon
If you're careful, no.
But still, I mentioned that this method is best for bare plastic parts.
You can try it on painted parts, but the panel lining paint will probably smudge all over the base coat of paint. However, you can clean the smudging with a damp cloth/Q-tip if your careful.
I have some other tutorial videos on my chanel that show better methods of panel lining for painted parts.
Watch my "HGUC Sazabi Tutorial" videos to see them.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99
I had a model airplane that i painted over with red alcohol based acrylic paint then i used green water based acrylic paint to "panel line". Basically I was bored and the thing was damaged so I used it as a test kit. So anyways I used a clorox antibacterial wet wipe and wiped away the excess green paint and it came out looking pretty good. The paint inside the lines never wiped away. Also the red base paint stayed perfectly intact, none of it wiped off.
Hermdo 1 year ago
@Hermdo
Glad to hear that worked for you.
Thanks for watching. :)
crapmunky99 1 year ago
i just use the panel linning or eye linning gundam marker
godlikecharacta 1 year ago
@godlikecharacta
I have other ways than this, too.
This is an older video so I've picked up a few new tricks since then.
Even so, I'd still advise against Gundam Markers.
I've got a series of tutorial videos for the HGUC Sazabi in which I show a lot of my tips for building models.
You can see my other methods of panel lining, and more in those videos.
Check 'em out if you're interested.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
hey this is really great! thanks. I'm gonna try this before i try painting panels for my first model. did it work after you painted the panel with a coat?
spacemadness123 1 year ago
@spacemadness123
This method is best for unpainted models. For parts that you've already painted, you could use a variation on this method in which you thin down the panel lining paint with water, until it has the consistency of ink. Then, apply it with a brush to the panel lines, and the lines should "draw" themselves (they may need a little help to move down the lines in some cases). After they dry, use a Q-tip or your finger to wipe away the excess. Toothpicks work too if you're careful.
crapmunky99 1 year ago
hey this is really great! thanks. I'm gonna try this before i try painting panels for my first model.
spacemadness123 1 year ago
@spacemadness123
Cool!
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
yo bro i suck at panel linin and ur way sounds good but the part where you sorta scratch it off it wont scratch the plastic will it? and im gonna like take the nubs comepletely and sand it down and spray paint and then panel line so will it work just msg me back bro
LynxPilot013 1 year ago
@LynxPilot013
If you do it gently, the toothpick won't scratch the plastic at all.
And yes, the method you describe should work fine.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99
thanks for posting this will help me later with gundam and hybrid armored core models :)
LynxPilot013 1 year ago
@LynxPilot013
Gundam and Armored Core... together?!?
AWESOME!!!
You GOTTA show that off when it's finished!
^_^
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99
no i mean gundam AND hybrid armored core not like them together it wouldnt work they wouldnt fir but ill show of my armored core when im done practicing and have money for them and for supplies
LynxPilot013 1 year ago
@LynxPilot013
Oh. I misunderstands... xD
Still, it would be cool to see those kits.
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99
lol its fine but yea it wwould they should make gundam variable infinity so like a trip gn drive on exia or something but the problem is money like the kits i want are 39.95 to 59.95 and im want like three or four to customize i might not even get them if i get no money
LynxPilot013 1 year ago
Clear coat and oil wash so much easier
pplschmpion 1 year ago
@pplschmpion
Clear coat and oil?
Never heard of that combo...
This is an older vid of mine, and although I still do this for certain parts, I know of faster/easier ways to panel line now.
I have a "HGUC Sazabi Tutorial" video up, in which I show one of these methods.
Anyway, thanks for watching.
crapmunky99 1 year ago
Could you thin the apple barrel paint and use it like a wash? and what if you paint a part with tamiya acrylic and once it cures decide to use this method, would there be problems? would you have to topcoat first? thanks
MegaSaki00 1 year ago
@MegaSaki00
I assume you could use it as a wash, if it's thinned down.
I wouldn't recommend using this method on parts that are already painted, though. It can smudge the panel lining paint into the base coat, and can be difficult to remove without damaging the base coat. You might be able to get away with it if you put down a protective gloss coat before panel lining. This will alow the excess panel line paint to be removed smoothly without damaging the base coat.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99 oo ok thanks, thats what I meant, to try to use it as a wash after gloss coating. I think I might try it with oil paints and turpentine if i can find some.
MegaSaki00 1 year ago
Hey munky, I'm having some trouble with panel lining my RX-78-2 one year war animation color model. I'm stuck on the head (don't even get me started on the beam sabers) because there are tons of little panel lines that just won't take. I let them dry, I even try the wipe away trick. I go over them again and again hoping for it to stay and it never does.I could just use some tips, I mean I watched you building the Zeta Gundam and I'm really impressed but mine don't end up looking like that.
Laurentis87 1 year ago
@Laurentis87
Sounds to me like the grooves in the plastic are too shallow. My solution to the problem is to take a hobby knife or a pin (or a modeler's scribing tool) and run it along the grooves. This makes the grooves deeper which means your lining will not be as easily removed when you clean up the excess.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
Before I bought some gundam markers and liners I used to use a toothpick with the tip dipped in paint. I say it worked pretty well xD
HaloCustomFilms 1 year ago
@HaloCustomFilms
Whatever works best for you. :)
crapmunky99 1 year ago
Hey I have a question. Your tutorial is excellent, but I have this gundam that has fully red feet. Do you remember the HG 1/144 Wing Zero Custom? And you know how the gundam feet clearly have White and red. It's fully red. Do you have any tips on how to paint part of it white?
HelloKwak 1 year ago
@HelloKwak
Painting white on a red part can be tricky. It always turns out looking a little pink, right? I'd suggest getting a little jar of primer, and apply a coat onto the area of the part you want to paint white. Primer will allow the white paint to go on more smoothly and will keep most of the red plastic from showing through.
Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
@crapmunky99 Ah. Thanks for the tip. I haven't thought of using primer. I generally don't handle paints at all so I don't know very much. Thanks again.
HelloKwak 1 year ago
@HelloKwak
Don't mention it. :)
crapmunky99 1 year ago
Hey I noticed, if you already painted the model you can use a gundam marker and push down so it releases a dot of paint and of course hit somewhere near the top of the panel line and it'll just flow on down with the panel line, then take a napkin and softly removed the giant blob and it comes off, even after painting a base coat :D!
chris12093 1 year ago
@chris12093
If it works for you, then by all means use that method. There can be more than one approach to lining a model, especially given different circumstances.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
can you use different colors?
Slifergod20 1 year ago
@Slifergod20
You can use whatever color you want. Black, gray, white, green purple, blue, etc...
But, for this techique to work, you need to use the same kind of paint I use in this video.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
hahaha. your little comments are funny bro. but awesome tip. really helpful for those whose afraid to use paint for their expensive, awesome model kit. 10 out of 10. and the paints, are cheap in walmart.
edvill82 1 year ago
Thanks!
Those are all the same reasons why I've always done my lining this way, and made this video to share it.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 1 year ago
i'm watching it again. but you know what, i got some paints from walmart, its called FolkArt and I guess its the same thing like your paints. but bro, you should make more tutorial about paneling, but this time, the piece of the gundam is small, perhaps his hips or head. but there are all same thing I guess.
edvill82 1 year ago
Yes, FolkArt is basically the same kind of paint as I use here. It will work the same way.
Perhaps I'll do more tutorials in the future, but, in case you haven't seen it, check out my MG Zeta Gundam Ver 2.0 Work in Progress Video - Part 2. In it you'll see some clips that show again how I do my panel lining, only I do it much faster than I do in this video.
crapmunky99 1 year ago
thanks for the help, now I can use my FolkArt paints for panelling. I mean, it does looks the same as your paint and as this video shows, it is easy to remove the unwanted paints. thanks again, I'll sure watch the other vids u uploaded.
edvill82 1 year ago
Comment removed
TheVanillaButt 2 years ago
oh ok thanks :]
gonelol 2 years ago
oh thanks for relying, i send so many relys to ppl and they just ignore mi XD.
btw so paint can use anykind?(like those in school(cheaper ones,poor lols))
gonelol 2 years ago
The specific paint I use here is a waterbased acrylic paint intended for craft projects.
It's different than most model paints.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
hey ppls, i heard someone says that technical pen or mechanical pen can do the trick but i want to find out which kind of normal pen(those you use in school, as i super duper broke everytime expect when i buy models lols(sry english somewhat bad)) can be used to pancel line?
gonelol 2 years ago
I personally wouldn't use any kind of pen for panel lining. If you really want convienience, though, try a fine tip Gundam Marker instead; that would probably work better than any pen.
But that said, I personally would still rather use paints and a brush to do my lining.
Anyway, thanks for watching.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Cool tutorial. I usually use sharpie ultra fine point and an eraser. But will give this a try especially when the fine point can't get inside those grooves.
meadeslemicah 2 years ago
Hope it works well for you. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Tamiya is water based. Just lettin you know(you probably already figured this out since this was made months ago)
omegashenron8 2 years ago
I know Tamiya acrylics can be thinned with water, but they contains isopropyl alchohol.
Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Really? When I read the paint bottle it said water based.
omegashenron8 2 years ago
Well, I'm not sure... Maybe I have something different than you do.
All I know is that alchohol dissolves my Tamiya clear red acrylic paint.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
and + tamiya acrylic paints aren't thinned yet, it needs tamiya's thinner to thin the paint. And the paint that your using right now is already thinned for you.
shinnx123 2 years ago
Right, but I find, actually, if you thin down these acryilics a little, or even if you just don't let it dry, you can just wipe it away for a clean line. It works pretty well, and you only need water to clean up.
Anyway, thanks for the tips, and of course, for watching.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
all acrylic paints are water based and are the most weakest type of paints. I recommended to use enamel paints which are oil based, so it could run down the lines better and faster. But it doesn't really matter. You still could stick with what your doing.
shinnx123 2 years ago
um oil eats away at the plastic just takes forever to be noticeable... i know i had a kit ruined by oil paint ...... a hole litteraly formed in it .
Zer0megaXX 2 years ago
Wow... Besides spray paints, I don't think I've ever used enamels, which I guess that's a good thing...
crapmunky99 2 years ago
r u sure ur using the right kind of paint??? tell me the paint that u were using, then I could might tell u why. U might have been painting ur whole plastic piece with acrylic paint and go a head with an enamel paint to do some small details such as panel lining or etc. If ur doing that then ur actually killing the acrylic paint because enamel kills acrylic. U should know that water doesn't mix with oil.
shinnx123 2 years ago
I use Lacquers to paint my whole plastic model then use enamels for panel lining. THis way I won't kill my surfaces. Acrylics which are the weakest then comes enamels then lacquers.
Thats the order from weakest to strongest. Always use the strongest to weakest because if u do the opposite then ur killing the precious paint. U understand?
shinnx123 2 years ago
thanks!
warsasa 2 years ago
That was enlightening, to say the least! XD Ah, but I noticed scraping with toothpicks leave those smudge-lines-thingy on the plastic? How do you clean that up? O:
Thanks!
fishfacedfreak 2 years ago
can the tooth pick scraping technique work with the tamiya acrylics too?
acicon 2 years ago
No, because the Tamiya is much more durable, so if you let it dry, a toothpick alone won't be able to remove it; It'll scratch and gunk up the plastic.
You might, however be able to dip the toothpick in some thinner (alchohol if it's Tamiya acrylic) so that the paint softens up enough for the toothpick to remove the paint.
But, for this method, the craft acrylic (waterbased) paints work best, so I'd recommend using them instead.
Anyway, thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Haha i absolutely worship you now. I went ahead and bought black and pewter grey colors of the Apple Barrel today. They were only 99 cents each so I thought "what do I have to lose?" Now, I have a beautifully panel lined RX 78-2 all thanks to your great tutorial! Thank you very much!
PaperGunCreations 2 years ago
Yes... Bow to me, my humble servant... xD
Just kidding.
I'm glad you were able to make such good use of my little video! Hopefully I'll be able to make another tutorial video of some kind in the future.
Anyway, thanks again for watching, and happy building (and lining)!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
have you ever tried gundam markers before? cuz im not entirely sure that i can handle the possibility of paint rubbing off a lot
ninjapwnzor 2 years ago
I never use them for lining. I've used a gold one before for coloring whole parts (which can work pretty well actually), but I've seen the results given by lining with Gundam Markers, and I find it to be rather sloppy looking.
So then, I either do my lining this way, or by process of "inking" (or whatever it's called) in which you thin the paint down and touch the brush to the lines. The paint flows along the lines, cleanly and neatly. Just wipe away the excess; no worry of scraping paint.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Can you use any Acrylic paint to panel line? I have a 24 set of acrylic Waterbased paints. I checked my hardware store and they had almost every color of the Apple Barrel Paint there but I was wondering if I could just use the ones I have. I don't mind spending the $1.50 on the Apple Barrel paint though. Thanks and I love your videos ;]
PaperGunCreations 2 years ago
Thanks for the compliment, and for watching! It's always nice to know my "work" is appreciated.
Anyway, as long as it's waterbased, this method will work with any brand of Acrylic paint.
But certain acrylic paints like Tamiya or Testors, though, are alchohol based, so they dry faster and differently (more durable) than the waterbased Apple Barrel paint. That means you won't be able to remove the excess like I do in this video if it dries.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
i tried this on my 1/144 zaku and it took forever, not to mention looked worse then when i used my fine tipped gundam markers on my zaku ll, plus i think if it was black, or a darker grey it would look better, in my opinion of course
Here4UrBrainz 2 years ago
This is just how I do it. It might not be the most convienient method for you and may not work for every kit.
If the lines are shallow to begin with, it's going to be a lot harder to do it this way.
If the model is already painted, that too can make this method not as effective. In that scenario, don't wait for the paint to dry; wipe it off right away so it doesn't stick.
I just thought people would like an alternative to Gundam Markers, which can leave sloppy looking results.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
dude im so doing that, I was gonna buy gundam markers, forget that, I have acrylic paints hanging around, just hope DecorsArt Acrylic paint rubs off easily with a toothpick
Wariowaftfart 2 years ago
Thanks! Glad you like the tip. If you're unsure about how your paint will stick, be sure to test it out on a spare piece of model plastic (like the left over part trees or something) before you try this on an actual model part. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
nice
i keep using freaking ball point pens t panel line
now imightusethis idea
but i might use a pernament pen because its a ball point and a sharp point too
HIIMDAVID12345555 2 years ago
Pens might work, but I wouldn't recommend them. Most inks don't dry very well on plastic, so it's better to use some kind of paint, whether it's a proper model paint, or something more like what I use in the video. I invite you to try my method, but the choice is yours; just do what works best for you. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
I tried yor method today on my NG freedom
it worked pretty good
but when i use a pernament pen it stays and it actually works like a gundam pen/marker
so yah,,
i rather use the pe
but thnx for the tip
ill use your method sometimes
HIIMDAVID12345555 2 years ago
Doesn't the toothpick scratch the kit and the fine residue of paint seen from the light at 4:59 leave a mark on your kit? or is this not substantial,
Because you can do the same with a gundam marker + cotton buds + gundam marker removal pen (only in dire situations) without the risk of scratching and the hassle of getting paint out etc.
cameosam 2 years ago
Maybe a little, but you'd never notice it unless you look extremely carefully. And any paint-job or lining work is going to have flaws if you're looking that closely. What I like about this method is that you don't need a lot of stuff and/or prep work; you just put the paint in the lines, wait, and remove the excess. It won't damage the plastic, and even if you do mess up, you don't need thinners and all that to fix the problem, just a toothpick. Anyway, thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
yeah that's why i'm using gundam markers now, they do exactly that without the fuss of a paint pot. plus they come in a pretty wide range of colours and i'm going to try using them to fix up file markings.
can you do an advanced vid on dry decals please? I'm still having trouble with them for curved surface aplication.
cameosam 2 years ago
I usually don't use decals on my models, so unfortunately, I wouldn't be able to offer much advice on how to properly apply them. And curved surfaces really are the worst; I have no idea how to get them on the part smoothly. Sorry. But, you might have more luck with some of the other big names in YouTube Gunpla; 2Old4Toys, Vegeta8259, Prime92, Stryderprime, and a few others. Just check the list of people who I've subscribed to, I'm pretty sure one of them will be able to help you.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
a varry nice methoud I ushaly just use a thin tiped gundam marker
otakunick89 2 years ago
This should give you better results than Gundam Markers. Hope it works as well for you as it does for me! And thanks for watching. :)
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Interesting ...
never thought of that :)
REPTILESHARINGAN 2 years ago
Thanks. Hope it was helpful! ^_^
crapmunky99 2 years ago
i've actually been using a toothpick and the same method, running the tip along the line...it works great.
mdawgg13 2 years ago
Thanks. Glad it works for you too.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
I have done this too, but I use a knife to get rid of the left over paint which straches the plastic. >.>;;
I'll try using a toothpick or a popsickle!
Thanks for the tip!
taruness 2 years ago
Cool. Hope it works for you. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Everybody has their ways. I make a black acrylic Wash all from Tamiya. Tamiya Flat Black mixed with a little bit of Thinner. Then I get a Super Fine Detail Brush and let the wash slide down into the panel lines. Then I dry it and get a Q-Tip or naphkin and put a dab of Thinner on it and wipe the excess dried parts off and magically it does NOT remove your beautiful Panel line blackness. It only removes the dots you made when you were putting the wash in the panel lines.
Deathofblades 2 years ago
That's called "inking", I think. It's a good method, and is a good alternative when my technique doesn't work, such as with painted models. Mine works well for unpainted kits, but yours works well with painted and unpainted kits. But, since I rarely ever painted my models, I was able to get by with this method. It's just the way I learned to do it on my own with the only paints I had to work with.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Yeah but why would you do your techinique?? I mean Acrylic Paint and Thinner from Tamiya isn't to expensive and it is really easy to make your own wash. The process is simple and from what I hear or what I learned on Japanese Puramo Tsukurou TV shows. The pro plamodelers use the techinique I mentioned and it is fairly easy. Give it a try. Trust me you will feel like a modeling pro when you do this techinique.
Deathofblades 2 years ago
The main reason I use the technique that I do, is because the paint is a lot easier for me to find, and it's a much better value for $ than the Tamiya. No, it doesn't work for everything, and I'm sure I'll eventually use your technique for a project in the future. But, for me, for now, with what I have, my way works fine. Nothing against your idea...
crapmunky99 2 years ago
You can average out on spending up to 6-8 dollars on the whole washing. That includes a Flat Black Tamiya, Bottle Thinner Tamiya, A second bottle of Thinnder. That should come up to 8 bucks with tax. If 8 dollars is expensive then Ionno what isn't. If you don't have a local hobbystore then look for one. If not then buy it online and it is cheap but shipping is in the way. However if say like you buy your products from Michaels. They sell Revell paints and models. You can use their product.
Deathofblades 2 years ago
It's not so much that the Tamiya is too expensive for me, but it's just that you only get a little with each bottle. A bottle of my paint can easily last over a year, depending on it's useage. I also like having the option of using the many different colors that I have on hand, including neon. But anyway, what type of thinner does Tamiya use? (As in, what is the base chemical in that thinner?) I'd like to see If I could get it in a different brand or store, and possibly get more for the money.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
you can actually just use alchohol
pattyboy1001 2 years ago
I actually found that out before when I was working on my 00 Raiser. I needed thinner for the clear Tamiya paints, so I tried rubbing alchohol (isopropyl, or whatever) & it worked. But thanks anyway.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
its easier with the Popsicle stick,
hoboninjas 2 years ago
Really? I never thought of that. I've got a few popsicle sticks laying around, so I'll give it a try on the next kit I build. Thanks for the tip & thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
gundam markers
Shotgunumbrella 2 years ago
What about them?
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Yo , i am still a beginner in modeling , so i am learning how to airbrush , ok i just wonder to ask you , if my plastic is already painted with paint and when i do my lining with your way , scratching here and there , will my paint comes off ? thanks , nice video
GUNDAMZHEN65 2 years ago
If the surface is already painted, and you use this method to create the panel lines, there is a chance that the paint will accumulate scratches and/or smudges. If you're VERY gentle when you remove the excess lining paint, you might be able to avoid these problems. A glossy surface will allow the excess to be removed smoothly and easily, but may leave scratches if not done carefully. Dull surfaces don't show scratches as much as gloss but may leave smudges when removing the excess lining paint.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
no its going to ruin ur paint. dont try it, its to risky!!!
hoboninjas 2 years ago
I figured that was the case. I never tried it, so I wasn't sure if it would work or not. I was hoping it would work on both painted and unpainted surfaces, but it makes sense why it wouldn't. This paint isn't too abrasive (it is completely waterbased, after all), but it would probably be the scraping which would damage the base coat. Too bad...
crapmunky99 2 years ago
also if u really want to do this way then place two masking tape on both sides of the panel line, so u can only see the panel lining.
hoboninjas 2 years ago
No, sorry. I don't use Gundam markers. I prefer using the method I show in this video.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Uh... What? I don't get what you mean. Please explain it better.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
I think he just meant how to get the plaint flowing.
Which is to just shake and press down...
ismHAKUREI 2 years ago
your method is very good depending on the application(case in point). i am going to get some of that craft paint and see it works well on painted surfaces.paints like tamyia sticks to good to rub it off of a painted surface.
anovasinn 2 years ago
I recently practiced this on a part with Tamiya acrylics already applied. If you're VERY careful and gentle with the toothpick, you can even remove excess paint (the craft paint I use for lining) from Tamiya clear (candy, translucent, etc.) paints without scratching the finish. I found this out when I was working on my HG 1/144 00 Raiser kit. I needed to paint clear blue and a grey color right next to each other, and inevitably, the grey ran onto the blue. I'm quite relieved that it didn't ruin!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
This just seems like too much effort when you can do it in a lot less time if you use really thin paint.
Get yourself some enamel paint and enamel thinner, thin the paint down so it's pretty thin but the still opaque, then use a paintbrush and touch it to the panel line. The paint will run down the panel line by capillary action.
kylewaller 2 years ago
I've heard of that before. It's known as "inking" in some circles. But I think it often leaves sloppy results if you're not careful, and if the paint isn't just right. Anyway, I'm wary of brush enamels. They need their own kind of thinner (which I'd need to buy), and it's hard to clean, which can potentially ruin a good brush, or paint job. So, it's still a lot of work, but just through a different method. The same technique would probably work with my waterbased paint, but without the risks.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
It can be sloppy only if you're incredibly sloppy. You can use enamel thinner, which is extremely cheap. I'm guessing by your accent that you're American. You could find white spirits (which can be used to thin enamel paints) from Wal Mart for really cheap.
kylewaller 2 years ago
I have an accent? Never really thought I did. Guess that must be a relative thing... xD Well anyway, I'll keep your advice in mind. Maybe I'll give enamels a try sometime. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
bro , i use those paint to paint my gundam , they give good result and quite durable once it completely dry , not bad though
seannopak25 2 years ago
These paints are pretty easy to work with, but I find they scrape off the plastic too easily. Not very appropriate when painting large parts, but very useful for panel lines. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
Dude, you rock ... very detail tutorial
KeviinX 2 years ago
Thanks. Hope it was useful.
crapmunky99 2 years ago
gundam markers are good but sometimes like ordinary pens,their not that durable.i bought like 2 of them and the other one's tip got damaged easily.try mitsubishi pin oil based unk marking pen.same result,not as expensive.now for my question,hehehe!!do you know anymore paint with the same result?cause what your using,i dont think theres one here in my country.any substitute?
Gunhead001 2 years ago
Well, the paints I use in this video are waterbased craft acrylics. I can't be sure what brands of paint you'd have in your country, so I'd recommend looking for an arts and crafts store in your area. They would probably have this type of paint in one brand or another. Thanks for watching!
crapmunky99 2 years ago
same. what i did was i took the brocken pen and took the metal thing out. i cut the thin tube(the tip), which leaves the a round cylinder and then i placed it in my gundam dynames sniper gun. this will make ur gundams have metal barrels
hoboninjas 2 years ago