It's a V15 (Sleepy Rave) liked with an 8 or 9 start, I don't remember which. Also I think the problem requires 63 moves, I might be off by a few but it's more than 60 I know that much.
@twelvestringtex actually the grades are important the reason why the grade is important is for the amount of money the athlete makes for finishing it
Who cares what grade it is if your at the top end of climbing you can send this. At the end of the day if its a nice line then you want to climb it regardless of the grade, yeah you still need the grades to see if your progressing and especially if your a hardcore ticker you don't want to miss out on a nice line cause the route/problem is over graded and even worse you don't want to waste time on a problem that under graded too
Thank you, I didnt literally mean it should be v12 but more like 13/14. probably more 14. for instance ive climbed up to v8 and a light v9 but i have a really long roof v4 that ive been projecting.
I have so much respect for koyamada and I don't whole heartedly agree with the "as hard as the hardest move" thinking but if the hardest move really is v12 then the length should not add a full 4 grades to the problem, at least not the current bouldering scale
PS-The only argument I would make to this is not to change it from v16 to v12, but from v16 to 5.15. Since it is like 90 moves long, a route grade would probably be more appropriate.
You guys are idiots. Theres not any "rules" for bouldering grades. Grades aren't important except for giving you a rough estimate as to how hard it would be to complete it. So obviously a v12 climber cant do this. I would know, ive been there and ive tried it. Its rated v16 because only the strongest climbers in the world could even begin to work this whole thing. rating something as hard as its hardest move is the dumbest thing ive ever heard unless the boulder problem is one move long.
Very bold call putting a v16 rating on the problem. But the fact remains that the hardest move is v12. Bouldering is not about stamina. For example Witness The Fitness in Arkansas is an extremely long and is considered by many to be v14. Having seen the problem myself I can say that the crux move is one of the most extreme I have ever seen in a cave. This guy is strong. But this problem is a v12.
By the way bouldering rating is supposed to go. (even though it is already an estimate) Any boulder route is supposed to be rated by its hardest move. Not by length or stamina required. I dont have any doubt that it is hard but if the hardest route in the linkup is v12 the route should be a v12. because in the v12 route the hardest move or moves are v12. so it should technically be a really long v12.
Its hard to say if its V16 on video I understand. There is an argument though that it should be given a route grading or a traverse grade like the french system. Its a great send dont get me wrong but its a bunch of V12's linked.. meaning there isnt one move in the problem harder than V12... We wont know until someone repeats i guess.
Chris' send of this problem is the business. This is the second ascent of the line Dai Koyamada linked up in 2004. If you have been to the cave you may appreciate the dedication required to climb this line. It is most definately a boulder problem, albeit a link of 4 problems, graded V8,V12,V10,V11 respectively. Boulder problems not being limited by length or number of moves, purely climbing unroped, yeah? Start hiballing too many of them slabs and before ya know it you're a free soloist, hey. .
You guys are right what a little bitch. No way that's even that hard, climbing roofs is way easier than slab plus his chalkbag dabbed on that last toehook rest so it's not like he even did it. I went to the Gramps once and looked at it and it's a way easy jughaul that's way overhyped by our stupid climbing media.
After playing in this cave last week, I'm awestruck by this video. Incredible grace and I'm stoked that an aussie has bagged 'the wheel'. Well done Chris
you guys are chumps. . . this video kicks ass. it is about time we get to see what climbing is really like with out the camera tricks and music. . .well almost without the music.
maybe it's V16.. maybe not. I like to see a bit of struggle to help me identify with how the climber is feeling and how hard is really is. this looks to be just a long problem.. kinda boring to watch but maybe not to climb
i read an interesting article about "boulderroutes" that really applies here. This is definitely a great piece of climbing but it doesn't really fall into the category of a true bouldering problem.
He rests enough to make it look like a frickin' sport route. Just not that interesting to me. I guess I need to see footage of him falling off to get a concept of how hard it is.
People take rests on boulder problems all the time.
joedotarch 1 year ago
how could it be graded as a boulder problem since the climber makes somes rests ?
for sure a really hard hard climb
unrealzt 2 years ago
footwork is dope
gkhan05 2 years ago
nice 1
lopycars 2 years ago
dab
kgressel 2 years ago
What's it a link of? Like a V8 + V9 + V8 or something? Smoothest climb I've seen =]
Carpbag 2 years ago
It's a V15 (Sleepy Rave) liked with an 8 or 9 start, I don't remember which. Also I think the problem requires 63 moves, I might be off by a few but it's more than 60 I know that much.
Syst3m04 2 years ago
unbelievable!!!
danny1311 3 years ago
amazing
joshuacovel 3 years ago
Maybe it would deserve V13/14 if it were more of a normal length. But it's not, it's fucking long. As it is, I think the rating is appropriate.
No matter what you think though, it's an amazing vid and Parsons is an amazing climber.
TwIsTeReApEr 3 years ago 4
very well!!!!!
could be difficult ;)
derpeet2 3 years ago
oh boy, we're going to have the Ali Hulk argument all over again, but from the other side...
c'mon people, grades aren't that important... it's F*kng hard, and reaaly, reaaaly awesome =)
twelvestringtex 3 years ago 4
@twelvestringtex actually the grades are important the reason why the grade is important is for the amount of money the athlete makes for finishing it
dyshilton 2 years ago
Who cares what grade it is if your at the top end of climbing you can send this. At the end of the day if its a nice line then you want to climb it regardless of the grade, yeah you still need the grades to see if your progressing and especially if your a hardcore ticker you don't want to miss out on a nice line cause the route/problem is over graded and even worse you don't want to waste time on a problem that under graded too
Jimar35 3 years ago 3
Thank you, I didnt literally mean it should be v12 but more like 13/14. probably more 14. for instance ive climbed up to v8 and a light v9 but i have a really long roof v4 that ive been projecting.
bostonsox311 3 years ago
I have so much respect for koyamada and I don't whole heartedly agree with the "as hard as the hardest move" thinking but if the hardest move really is v12 then the length should not add a full 4 grades to the problem, at least not the current bouldering scale
ybhjrgbjhesgdfuhxbvj 3 years ago
PS-The only argument I would make to this is not to change it from v16 to v12, but from v16 to 5.15. Since it is like 90 moves long, a route grade would probably be more appropriate.
xSpeedClimberx69 3 years ago
You guys are idiots. Theres not any "rules" for bouldering grades. Grades aren't important except for giving you a rough estimate as to how hard it would be to complete it. So obviously a v12 climber cant do this. I would know, ive been there and ive tried it. Its rated v16 because only the strongest climbers in the world could even begin to work this whole thing. rating something as hard as its hardest move is the dumbest thing ive ever heard unless the boulder problem is one move long.
xSpeedClimberx69 3 years ago
Very bold call putting a v16 rating on the problem. But the fact remains that the hardest move is v12. Bouldering is not about stamina. For example Witness The Fitness in Arkansas is an extremely long and is considered by many to be v14. Having seen the problem myself I can say that the crux move is one of the most extreme I have ever seen in a cave. This guy is strong. But this problem is a v12.
seanymak303 3 years ago
By the way bouldering rating is supposed to go. (even though it is already an estimate) Any boulder route is supposed to be rated by its hardest move. Not by length or stamina required. I dont have any doubt that it is hard but if the hardest route in the linkup is v12 the route should be a v12. because in the v12 route the hardest move or moves are v12. so it should technically be a really long v12.
bostonsox311 3 years ago
very good stamina and skill! well done!
blueshift86 3 years ago
soooooooo cool! :) long!
Bmikee2 3 years ago
very nice man, been there and looks hard. :S, nice job making it look easy.
aden069 3 years ago
looks fun! good job dude!
Lifesucksdie123 3 years ago
he has a really nice foot work
enfingret 3 years ago 3
DAMN! UNREAL STREINGHT!!! I'm impressed for the rest of my life man!
MakkeHeze 3 years ago
so strong chris!!peace!!
waldmensch100 3 years ago
DAB! unreal though- goodonya!
kayaloveskins 3 years ago
not a v16, id like to see him try some of sharma and dave graham's problems
tdock14 3 years ago
yeah this defiantly is a V16 Wheel of life check it on wikipedia
synesthesia123 3 years ago
Its v16 dai koyamadas route and yes he has sent many of sharmas (not sure about graham) routes maybe not this guy buy dai has
daveycrocket7373 3 years ago
Its hard to say if its V16 on video I understand. There is an argument though that it should be given a route grading or a traverse grade like the french system. Its a great send dont get me wrong but its a bunch of V12's linked.. meaning there isnt one move in the problem harder than V12... We wont know until someone repeats i guess.
tdock14 3 years ago
Chris' send of this problem is the business. This is the second ascent of the line Dai Koyamada linked up in 2004. If you have been to the cave you may appreciate the dedication required to climb this line. It is most definately a boulder problem, albeit a link of 4 problems, graded V8,V12,V10,V11 respectively. Boulder problems not being limited by length or number of moves, purely climbing unroped, yeah? Start hiballing too many of them slabs and before ya know it you're a free soloist, hey. .
teamneverlost 3 years ago
ali hulk, is grades as a róute, and they climb it whitout af rope. ( i think)
by the way, where have you found the difference grade of this route/boulder? :-)
enfingret 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
You guys are right what a little bitch. No way that's even that hard, climbing roofs is way easier than slab plus his chalkbag dabbed on that last toehook rest so it's not like he even did it. I went to the Gramps once and looked at it and it's a way easy jughaul that's way overhyped by our stupid climbing media.
finchplucker 4 years ago
Fucking idiot! How stupid are you?
hansmaro 4 years ago
After playing in this cave last week, I'm awestruck by this video. Incredible grace and I'm stoked that an aussie has bagged 'the wheel'. Well done Chris
joshcrosbie 4 years ago 3
Perfect footwork.
Aberjan 4 years ago 3
nice climb, though that music is well annoying...
slintank 4 years ago 2
it's a sport route made easier by deleting rope management. minus 2 style points for the kneebar ;-)
font9a 4 years ago
V16 or 9a+? So fucking what! Great effort anyway!
hansmaro 4 years ago
you guys are chumps. . . this video kicks ass. it is about time we get to see what climbing is really like with out the camera tricks and music. . .well almost without the music.
crazyfingers64 4 years ago 3
maybe it's V16.. maybe not. I like to see a bit of struggle to help me identify with how the climber is feeling and how hard is really is. this looks to be just a long problem.. kinda boring to watch but maybe not to climb
jrox007 4 years ago
i read an interesting article about "boulderroutes" that really applies here. This is definitely a great piece of climbing but it doesn't really fall into the category of a true bouldering problem.
TankJacked 4 years ago
great send!! yea not your traditional boulder problem but highly impressive nonetheless... even though he makes it look like its v5. Cruised it.
monkeyapeman 4 years ago
HELLA boring
captainpolution 4 years ago
"Resting" upside down is exhausting to me - incredible performance!
kikibatlubbin 4 years ago
i love Australia =D
amayalluqu616 4 years ago 2
made it look easy!
elvis237 4 years ago
He rests enough to make it look like a frickin' sport route. Just not that interesting to me. I guess I need to see footage of him falling off to get a concept of how hard it is.
loveblanket 4 years ago
not really a boulder, more like bloody long road
anyway - beautiful and inspiring
elmihu 4 years ago
this is insane... damn cool ascent!
it's like six minutes in a roof without any really good holds. and v16 is wicked.
keep on posting vids, dude!
Eldarondilion 4 years ago
unbelievable.frikin unbelievable.
mongoti 4 years ago
Chris, just watched the vidoe. As you know I have no knowledge of climbling and I still found the video extremely impressive, now get back to work.
merricks1972 4 years ago
Dude your ascent was awesome and for those who are dissing this wicked ascent maybe you should shutup and get stronger!!
tcc321321 4 years ago 2