Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two batteries but no dice.
Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal "stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the block and a breaker got it off with relative ease.
@aznazguy Put it in 5th gear 4hi and have someone stand on the brake. It's only 110 ftlbs spec I think. I've never had a problem getting them torqued back on.
@WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the crank fixed.
Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a pulley holding tool?
@aznazguy Oops, I missed the automatic part. I've been able to hold the sytem with a simple pulley holding tool that consisted of an automotive belt that secures to a bar. I got one at harbor freight pretty cheap. Another way to do it would be to pull the starter and jame a pry-bar into the flywheel teeth. Another way would be to pull a spark plug and insert a long coil of small rope and then bring the piston up agaist it until it jams. (I do NOT like that method though.)
Once I forgot to loosen crank bolt while engine was in truck,It was so tight I thought It would never come off.As a last effort I put 3/16 nylon rope in cylinder through spark plug hole to keep engine from turning over and then put 3ft 1inch pipe over my breaker bar and gave it one hard fast lift on pipe.And it let loose with a loud crack at first I thought I broke the wrench.
@hp11208 Yeah, but that doesn't always work...trust me. And for sure don't work on a dead engine. ;-) Most air guns won't even touch that bolt when it gets frozen. Plus, if you are trying to get that thing out when it's in the truck there isn't enough room to get a big enough air gun in there with the radiator in the way.
@raganriley Yes the front main seal is easy to replace. I would recommend that you pull the oil pump off though to replace the front main seal. it's easier to drive it in perfectly if the crankshaft isn't poking through. Oil pump is easy to take off once you have the crankshaft pulley out of the way. I once had one that was so stubborn I welded a 1/2 drive socket to the crankshaft pulley bolt. The heat from welding loosened it right up. :-)
@1tonyota I once dinged up the dust shield for the crankshaft pulley (removing it) when I did a timing chain install. I got the whole job done, fired up the truck and the metal on metal sound was just terrifying. thought I had screwed something up bad under the timing cover. As I started to take the front end off again I noticed there was a slight grind mark on the oil pump body where the dinged up dust shield had hit it on every revolution. It was louder than hell and scary as %*$&#.
The gods of any project require a blood sacrifice and I'm building a fence so of cousre I stepped on a nice big ol' nail. Earned me a trip to urgent care, but at least the construction gods are appeased.
@WheeliePete Something like this always happens to me.. I either hurt a finger or sprain a muscle or get a cold *just* as I'm getting ready to do something
@CharlieDoan The problem with the low mileage jap engines is that they are usually rode hard and put away wet. Seriously, would you change the oil in an engine you knew you were going to get rid of in 30,000 miles? I wouldn't either... Add to that a trans-pacific journey in salt air and you have a corroded, worn-out, 30,000 mile engine.
It was a cheap-ass Pacesetter. I'd rather not ship it, but if you're local you can pick it up -$20 (e-mail me) I have used Thorley and LC Engineering headers in the past. The LC Engineering ceramic header for the 22R series is sweet, but it runs around $400.
@griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the middle of the seal.
Thanks for this video, It has helped me a lot.. and yer from oregon so +1 for that
linkspast88 2 weeks ago
Man I just went through this on a 22R I had pulled. I bought a SnapOn impact that didn't work. I tried bolting the starter to it to crank it with the motor on the ground, nope. I ran the starter off 24 volts with two batteries but no dice.
Finally took a piece of perforated sheet metal "stereo strap" material, and bolted the torque plate (automatic) to the block and a breaker got it off with relative ease.
Now how to torque it with the motor in place?
aznazguy 2 weeks ago
@aznazguy Put it in 5th gear 4hi and have someone stand on the brake. It's only 110 ftlbs spec I think. I've never had a problem getting them torqued back on.
WheeliePete 2 weeks ago
@WheeliePete Thanks Pete, but as I mentioned it is an automatic (torque plate not flywheel) so I can't use the high gear/brake method to hold the crank fixed.
Not sure what to do. Might have to rent/borrow/buy/fab a pulley holding tool?
aznazguy 1 week ago
@aznazguy Oops, I missed the automatic part. I've been able to hold the sytem with a simple pulley holding tool that consisted of an automotive belt that secures to a bar. I got one at harbor freight pretty cheap. Another way to do it would be to pull the starter and jame a pry-bar into the flywheel teeth. Another way would be to pull a spark plug and insert a long coil of small rope and then bring the piston up agaist it until it jams. (I do NOT like that method though.)
WheeliePete 1 week ago
Once I forgot to loosen crank bolt while engine was in truck,It was so tight I thought It would never come off.As a last effort I put 3/16 nylon rope in cylinder through spark plug hole to keep engine from turning over and then put 3ft 1inch pipe over my breaker bar and gave it one hard fast lift on pipe.And it let loose with a loud crack at first I thought I broke the wrench.
smokestack56 1 month ago
Thanks Pete nice video
etran2719 1 month ago
i woulda just use an air gun or set up the a breaker bar and start the engine.
hp11208 2 months ago
@hp11208 Yeah, but that doesn't always work...trust me. And for sure don't work on a dead engine. ;-) Most air guns won't even touch that bolt when it gets frozen. Plus, if you are trying to get that thing out when it's in the truck there isn't enough room to get a big enough air gun in there with the radiator in the way.
WheeliePete 2 months ago
@WheeliePete true,many ways to skin a cat lo.
hp11208 2 months ago
how run your weber carburetor en you toyota 22r bicaose my weber isnot runing good do you have sujestion to do in my 83 toyota 22r please end tanks
DANIELO6509 3 months ago in playlist More videos from WheeliePete
gonna try this method right now!
shlobberdog1 4 months ago
Ive tried everything to remove my bolt, it wont budge. If i heat up the bolt is the oil seal easy to replace?
Thanks.
raganriley 5 months ago
@raganriley Yes the front main seal is easy to replace. I would recommend that you pull the oil pump off though to replace the front main seal. it's easier to drive it in perfectly if the crankshaft isn't poking through. Oil pump is easy to take off once you have the crankshaft pulley out of the way. I once had one that was so stubborn I welded a 1/2 drive socket to the crankshaft pulley bolt. The heat from welding loosened it right up. :-)
WheeliePete 5 months ago
@WheeliePete Thanks Pete, ill order the parts today and try heating it up tomorrow. Ill let you know how it turns out.
raganriley 5 months ago
how do u know it will make a screaming metal on metal sound.
1tonyota 6 months ago
@1tonyota I once dinged up the dust shield for the crankshaft pulley (removing it) when I did a timing chain install. I got the whole job done, fired up the truck and the metal on metal sound was just terrifying. thought I had screwed something up bad under the timing cover. As I started to take the front end off again I noticed there was a slight grind mark on the oil pump body where the dinged up dust shield had hit it on every revolution. It was louder than hell and scary as %*$&#.
WheeliePete 6 months ago
I just bent the dust shield back into position and no more noise. Sure freaked me out though when I fired that truck and it made that awful noise...
WheeliePete 6 months ago
@WheeliePete i got it man but in the video u told us to ask.lols
1tonyota 6 months ago
@1tonyota hahaha, man I didn't even pick up on that...I put a nail through my foot today so I'm still a little loopy on pain meds. lol...
WheeliePete 6 months ago
The gods of any project require a blood sacrifice and I'm building a fence so of cousre I stepped on a nice big ol' nail. Earned me a trip to urgent care, but at least the construction gods are appeased.
WheeliePete 6 months ago
@WheeliePete Something like this always happens to me.. I either hurt a finger or sprain a muscle or get a cold *just* as I'm getting ready to do something
l33tr3t 1 month ago
Panama sell this Japanese engine only 30,000 mile from Tokyo very cheap.$500-$800 US dollars.
CharlieDoan 6 months ago
@CharlieDoan The problem with the low mileage jap engines is that they are usually rode hard and put away wet. Seriously, would you change the oil in an engine you knew you were going to get rid of in 30,000 miles? I wouldn't either... Add to that a trans-pacific journey in salt air and you have a corroded, worn-out, 30,000 mile engine.
WheeliePete 6 months ago
Your video has saved the day for this shade tree mechanic!!! Thanks. My 1990 4X4 22re has 295000 miles and I"m doing all the work myself.
sessions694nick8fu 7 months ago
It was a cheap-ass Pacesetter. I'd rather not ship it, but if you're local you can pick it up -$20 (e-mail me) I have used Thorley and LC Engineering headers in the past. The LC Engineering ceramic header for the 22R series is sweet, but it runs around $400.
WheeliePete 8 months ago
What kind of header is that? How much?
BigManlyMan4 8 months ago
what about pulling the oil seal is there any special techniques that u have for that
griffintready 8 months ago
@griffintready I actually just remove the entire oil pump body to replace the front main oil seal. It's a lot easier to remove the seal and to install it if the oil pump (in which the front main seal is located) if you're not having to work around the crankshaft sticking out through the middle of the seal.
WheeliePete 8 months ago