Fred Rouhling Akira part 9b

[TLamparter]

awesome!! :o

[38guitou]

What is the song?

[Giuiba]

@38guitou Mindfields - Prodigy

[ferrariboy95]

very nice, but not 9b

[leeks3]

@ferrariboy95 oh, have you climbed it? would you know a 9b if you saw it in a video? leave the rating to the people who have climbed it, because like most of us, you'll never be able to climb anything that hard.

[TheLulumon]

@ferrariboy95 : i think it is !!!

[1shinta1]

Sharma = Dopping  -.-'

[aypimptastic]

i heared he sleeps with the bats

[akaAlexthekid]

Spider man, spider man, does everything that a spider can

[Avezyyy]

1:01 - 1:06 :s

[1shinta1]

oh yeah !!! Fred en action .... tro fort

[loonny]

I'm agree with you Xabi. And i think he don't want to be popular like them also. Some one like free climb, others only boulder. Him, he want to open routes and travel to do boulder. But he has a experience of high level. And say X better than Y, and Z says yes....Too many different style, pleasure and goals to made a top list in this sport

[loonny]

6 month ago i saw 9b+, now 9b. Ok :)

[afthefragile]

This just mostly purely upper body strength.

You need super strong arms for this.

Something I completely lack!!

Need to start going to the gym more...

[kitesurfer85]

max 8b

[rockvanisher]

@kitesurfer85 exactly!! that's why everyone is sending it so easily!!

[loonny]

It's a route, the video show the only first part. After that you go out the cave and climb the wall on 5-6 meters (i think because i see only photo) type "9b akira" in google you'll see a site with many others photos of akira.

[heda0206]

isn`t it a boulder, not a route?

[bidule71]

Fred is the king of roof!the second part of this route is a fucking cliff very very bad, dont forget it!i seen it last past year and it s very scary because the roof is high,and a crash pad is light if you fall...only the best climbers can complete this route!c est incontestablement un 9b,sans aucun doute.

[Gonzoyorick]

french a fucking good

[loonny]

Only two climbers repeat it (not finish) and say the route was hard. Dani andrada just say i put a feet and i prefer works on his own routes.....Thirteen years later, he opened Ali hulk, cotation 9b+ .

1995, controversial route like "Akira" with first 9b, no pro ready to work it (yes the place is'nt really beautiful like rondellar for photoshoot).

and more than ten years later, we have a ghost of chliam balam and ali hulk, and again many critics on Akira.

[rockvanisher]

@loonny Ali Hulk he graded it 9b

[mtommy84]

Guys guys.....this is just strength.....pure and simple strength....there is more or less no technique here...it is certainty a hard hell route, but can't be graded 9b....

[P3313]

I always thought that perfect technique can only take you to about the 5.12+/13- level. If you want to climb past this level you pretty much have to have amazing strength and good genetics (right body type).

[1shinta1]

jador fred ...!!

te tro b1 jespere eskalader kom toi plus tard

pour l'instan je me kontent d mon 6b hahaha

[ORoberge]

I didn't know Gael Garcia Bernal was so strong a climber ;-)

[sounddiggers]

good music ? ? ?

[meemoeuk]

Take it there's no uncut footage of him doing the route in one go? Anyone got a link?

[Mdniteblu]

oh my god fred you are a sexy beast

[boxsterwelby]

this is as difficult as wheel of life! A solid v14 or 15 climb. The only reason this isn't popular in america is because he's not from america. Better than sharma i think.

[ClimbinOli]

Since when is the wheel of life in america, genius?

[DrKaito10]

Since never, he/she said its because he's not an american climber, nothing to do with the climb- learn to read.

[gritstoner]

Easy now kids. I would say the obvious reason for why it's not popular in America must be because the route's inconceivably hard - screw nationality. But make no mistake, this route and its grade caused outrage in Europe and elsewhere in the 90s, due to it being the first proposed 9b (no 9a+ had been done yet) and because it uses a glued hold. For that, Rouhling is still a kind of black sheep in the world class climbing world - one beast of a black sheep! Careful about the Sharma claim though.

[Xabi088]

better than sharma?¿

if u wanna be popular, u must to repit all epic routes like graham or andrada... and get popular..

sharma not only do all routs, he doing wittnes of the fitnes (fred nicole says that the hardes boulder)

and jumbo love, other harder...

fred nicole isnt american, and he is very famus also, he do terremer,real v15....

[irishmonkey640]

Omg please use proper grammar.

[perricida]

@irishmonkey640 Like OMG?

[runaway333]

@Xabi088 there are more routes and boulders in the world than the ones you watch in Dosages!

[Xabi088]

@runaway333 i dont know if fred nicole appears in any dosage, but he is a really big icon of boulder, and if he sayd this is for something....

and about the routes, is not necesary to see the dosages. Every magacines or forums about climb testify about his archivements.... for sure the other generation from lama, ondra and others monsters will push routes to other level

but right now .... no doubt

[kalledda]

I love this video

Fred for president!!!!

[HawtGlass]

i love how he controls his swings

[jrpimpdog]

Fred Rouhling is one of those guys who does not compete and is not making headline news like Sharma or Adam Ondra but I believe he is just as good and maybe even better. Check out the DVD First Ascent in the extras to see what I am talking about.

[HawtGlass]

with you on that

[huyiy]

@jrpimpdog i dont doubt fred rouhling is BAD ASS climber, but until some others repeat sharma's jumbo love and his other crazy ascents i dont see how you can say better than sharma

[grimp74]

I think it is real 9b, he is extremely impressive. He moves like a butterfly.

[Fercho2706]

this looks hard as hell!

i'm not trashing the video and skills of this guys but in my personal opinion i dont find any atracttive in this route, I mean look at it it is just a roof inside of a cave in the middle of nowhere, you can find roofs like this ANYWHERE. It doesn't had the atracttive of La Rambla, Realization, Es Pontas, etc..

[derpeet2]

hm it might be no 9b but its a brillant line and a very nice video

[Meurnie]

Tranquille xD

[NuitSanWoggaWogga]

what a beast

[snyggman]

Yes there are footholds? Have you been there? Have you tried it? Or are you perhaps judging by what you're seeing on a shitty youtube clip?

Either way, you should know that Fred is an amazing climber and he would definately use the easiest beta.

[aryanzorn]

maybe because fingerholes are even more bad when using the feet? i dunno but you dont no the direction of the holes, maybe you would fall off if using your feet. i think he is good enough to know what he is doing ^^

[BatSvilko]

@ gerardo231

he made it like this because when he made the FA crashpads didn't exist (which means you should be always ready to land on your feets) so he developed this crazy style :)

[Jimar35]

sounds feasible though at the time of ascent im sure mats where around. Either way still an impressive line and the power he uses to control the swings is awesome to watch <3 Fred

[twelvestringtex]

but about 1:10 i see what looks like a crash pad in the bottom left corner

[mozzzxa]

you're retarded, if he was worried about landing on his back he could easily improvised a crash mat from a mattress etc. and use a spotter. if you watch the video, he uses the footholds where he can, the other times the footholds are too small or are facing in the wrong direction to be used. also it may be quicker and therefore more efficient to campus the moves like this.

[CaradogChapman]

i still thinks its a boulder problem though and should get a v grade. look at wheels of life v16 in australia thats a really long boulder problem but its still gets a v grade, i rekon fred rouhling and dani andrada should do the same

[gymjoem]

that was just the roof part of the climb, there is a vert section after it that is supposed to be something like 5.13b

[SpunkM75]

Wheel of life shouldn't have a V grade.

[sounddiggers]

it has - V 16 ?

[SpunkM75]

Yes it has V16.

[CaradogChapman]

why has it got a sport grade? its a boulder problem

[verticaltrash]

because its so long i think. its the same with the route "ali hulk" by dani andrada. its also a boulder problem, but he gave a sport grade because its as long as a route, so the grade fits better then a boulder grade.

[soyvagamundo]

Why fred you almost never put your foot on that roof?

[asdf2000]

I'd guess there are no decent footholds.

[3241030]

sick, sick, sick

[marcopervo]

Absolutely amazing. I see why it hasn't been repeated. Every sequence is extemely powerful AND requires absolute precision.

[ironmonkey76]

Chris Sharma is way better than Fred Roughling and anyone else. No one can touch Es Pontas.

[ironballs420]

ok.. why did my buddy buck branson beat him at the dyno comp in az. haha chris rules anyway.. climbing rules.. who cares if hes better or not just climb and have a good time thats what its all about this isnt football

[thebksfriend]

Adam ondra will send it in sandals;D (the kid got la rambla on his 5th go:D0

[BeapTape]

so what!!! does that make the climb bad

[thebksfriend]

No it makes Adam Ondra insanely strong

[BeapTape]

yeahhr ironmonkey

1. because of such a crap attidute chris doesn't grade his routes cause that's not what it's about 2. i think your brain became iron

[ironmonkey76]

Beap tape can suck my balls. Chris doesn't have a bad attitude about grading routes. He just doesn't think that climbing is about grades, its about having fun.

[BeapTape]

exactly it's about havin fun why do write then "chris is way better blablabla" just respect the climb of fred and have fun watchin it. All these chris compares make me sick because you all do that because he's the one who is gettin filmed all the time imagine bigup would have filmed another world class climber on their past videos then everbody would be a fan of them and nobody would talk about chris.

[BeapTape]

exactly it's about havin fun why do write then "chris is way better blablabla" just respect the climb of fred and have fun watchin it. All these chris compares make me sick because you all do that because he's the one who is gettin filmed all the time imagine bigup would have filmed another world class climber on their past videos then everbody would be a fan of them and nobody would talk about chris.

[mister9a]

Ethan Pringle was working Es Pontas for a while. I heard he was very disappointed to discover that the dyno was contrived, not forced.

[Jonas223XC]

Yes, you can obviously go around the dyno. It is a massive arch; you can climb on the other side of the thing and almost walk up it. But Sharma found a very hard line on it and successfully sent it. You can't hate him for that.

[BatSvilko]

@ Jonas223XC

maybe you are trying to comment the "es pontas" video :)

[Jonas223XC]

I was replying to the comment above mine, by mister9a

[eamo2020]

the song is minefields by prodigy

[bocajbrumby]

I think he might be better than Chris Sharma.

Also, does anyone know what song this is?

[duenschman]

great. do you have the force- ´ts the question.

[Mercvzio]

...spero tanto che sia 9b... e che poi ci siano i 9c, 10a, 10b e via discorrendo... altrimenti torniamo a 30 anni fa... ed al massimo limite umano... "mentale"

[Jonas223XC]

That sort of strength is just inhuman.

[neisk94]

that´s insane i have long road for there...

[Novebi]

Why not have a gathering of grade 9 climbers in order to try, all together, a potential 9b route?

They could try the same (potential) 9b route in a fixed range of time, for example 6 months ?

Or better yet, gather for 2/3 weeks in order to try all together, encourage each other, and maybe see a repeat to verify the grade?!

[petepiaire]

mono campus move...

[milkconspiracy]

amazing, amazingly powerful.

its a campus problem?

[Eldarondilion]

i think sharma'd need to work it out, just like "witness the fitness"...

but nonetheless, it's awesome to see!

[coralnerd]

Holy shit. Those moves look impossible. Like no human or animal should be able to do them kind of impossible. . .

[dopenessinsurround]

how is this NOT a 9b+?? it seems as though it'd be more challenging than chilam balam.

[coltleader]

Are those mono campus moves really necessary? I mean it's hard to believe that there is no feet anywhere for those moves.

[JaimeJamesJaume]

Action directee 1991 and akira 1996 i think

Do you have the link article of MATT RALPH ?? when he sent

[mister9a]

all of you should look up and read "the other side of Fred Rouhling", an article published by climbing on Fred.

[ochoymedio78]

De l'autre cote du Fred, I think its the name of the article. (because of the route of that name, which in the article is thought as to be harder than Fred rated, 9a).

The route/boulder is sick hard and certainly matches Fred's abilities in terms of long dynamic movements from tiny holds (I'd like him to try Action Directe...), but that's always the case in any top notch route and the first ascender.

[styX3]

hmm cant post link -.- but the article is worth a read

[bedevilledwitheggs]

Matt Ralph repeated this in april. He said its the hardest sequence he's made. Thats coming from someone who repeated dreamtime in a 10 hour window after it rained!

He's in the lake district this week, think we may see the first repeat of 'Walk away (sit start)

[UniSaarland]

can u post link about this?

[meeeuuuhhh]

this man is a monster 8|

[thisonesforyou182]

shut all ur bull shit and appreciate the vid

[IronManI441]

Makes him sick... right he obviously doesnt know jack about climbing if fans of Sharma make him sick. Being a fan of one of the worlds top climbers is nothing to be ashamed of. And Fred Rouhling is incredible and it is sad that he had to halt his career a bit, stop ragging on the guy, he didnt chip it, and the reason there is no other eqally hard routes is prob cause he nearly quit climbing for two years to deal with his wife when she had brain surgery.

[karmaXV]

i was actually refering to the usual dissing of every climber/route beside Sharma/'s by some of his fans. I know way enough about climbing to respect Sharma and other top climbers. And that ye, peep saying that akira aint technical are clueless.

[karmaXV]

bleh. all these clueless sharma fanboys make me sick.

Nice vid tho

[siksadlitleworld]

rediculously overrated...... incomparable to sharma's technical 15's..... campusing .... gimme a break

[Kruhx]

campus much?

[hunta998]

Footwork at its finest.

[enfingret]

jah, haha. very nice comment. the foot technic is called 'cut-loose' ;)

[Mlk2r]

Heaps of top climbers have tried Akira, I think Graham did, but a project this hard requires complete devotion, think of Sharma's Sea-Arch, he woirked it for months, as he did on Witness the Fitness, and Realization. Maybe if he worked it sharma would do it, but I don't doubt the fact that it's the grade Fred calls it, just check out his swiss boulder tick-list.

[kacpaa]

This Guy is fuckin mastah :)

[seanstdenis]

The song is called Mindfields

[zrzavyorm]

spiderman retired after seeing Fred

[MeSsS3]

Sharma cant do akira???mhuahuahuauhhuaa

[pklukepk]

Fred cant do Realization? Muahahaha

[BatSvilko]

maybe u will do Realization and then u will do Akira and downgrade it to 7b?!

[sigmuntr]

And when you see the video, then it's believeable that the route is 5.15b. But comparing it to "biographie extended" ("realization") is a little bit stupid, because it's two very different routes. Rouhling probably can't do "realization" and sharma probably can't do "akira".

[IronManI441]

oh and supposedly Dani Andrada just barely spent some time on Akira and said a few key holds are filled with epoxy, not sure who did it but i dont see it being Rouhling. Prob some wanker who chipped it then filled back up.

[DonaldBumsfeld]

most climbs over 9a have 'constructed'

the holds are so small that they would not sustain the force of pulling on them.

maybe this route deserves a boulder grade anyway

[sigmuntr]

Hah... Fred Rouhling climed this thing when the hardest climbed route was at grade 5.14b, and he rated akira 5.15b. The grade hasn't been confirmed yet, so until anyone else sends it, it will stay at 5.15b. But since som jackasses have chipped a new hold, will i guess the grade has fallen a bit. But i guess without the chipped hold, the route is at least 5.15.

[treebierd]

I think you are mistaken, Action direct was sent long before roughling sent this one. So the highest grade at the time was 14d. He skipped 15a. A full letter grade is much different than a full number grade.

[sigmuntr]

Sorry, you're right:) But it's still a hell of an achievement in 1995.

[IronManI441]

This is amazing, but even though rated the most difficult in the world it really is over rated by far and the vast majority of the climbing community thinks rouhling is egotistical to even consider this harder than Realization by Sharma

[mdewil]

Almost nobody is able to do this himself as this is the hardes climbing route at the moment. Awesome video!

[OliverFeiler06]

Awesome moves, but only interesting if you do that by yourself.