Added: 3 years ago
From: carlby7
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  • Subcool and or superheat needs checked. if it is below 60F you can use the hot gas method to get the charge close or recover all the charge and weigh it in. The last two will get you close until it can be properly charged in AC mode when it is warm outside.

  • It's not uncommon for Ruud/Rheem to ice up the first few minutes it starts up, but should clear up. Looks to me like a gross overcharge. There was no ice on the inlet to the accumulator. Wonder why? Liquid was boiling off in the accumulator.

  • Problem solved!!! We replaced the outside fixed orifice with a TXV. No more freeze up or drop in upflow temperature. Appreciate all the comments.

  • problem is its old as shit

  • If it freezes at the accumulator, then it is overcharged.

  • WAS IT FREEZING UP IN COOL OR HEAT MODE?

  • total waste of my time... what do your gages read???? if your indoor coil uses a fixed metering device, you must use the "super-heat" method to check the charge. having a slightly larger indoor coil(more surface area) can result in higher s.e.e.r. rating. if you use the larger orifice(usually the one supplied with the condenser.) YES to answer your question, a t.x.v. installed WOULD have corrected this problem. the t.x.v. "throttles" the refrigerant flow into the indoor coil(evap.)

  • I can tell by the way the compressor and all of the various parts are located outside the coil and how the coil is box shaped that it is a Rheem unit.

  • When you install a bigger indoor unit their is a certain orphice that should be in the liquid line for matching the units.You can only go bigger on the indoor by 1 ton and never a bigger outdoor than indoor.When installed correctly a 1 ton increase in the indoor unit is suppose to change the seer rating but its not as efficient as first proclaimed.

  • It is fetzer valve.

  • Its low on r22 man.

  • @67tr876

    After further examination it was discovered that the inside coil was not a matching coil. It was explained that the coil was sized larger for more efficency. Unfortunately it also caused problems as far as refrigerant charge and some odd noises it would make at startup. Coil was exchanged and R22 was brought up to spec. and the system is now no longer freezing up at the accumualtor.

  • it looks like a bad compresor suction valve, the suction valve might be stuck closed or not fully opens. refrigerant gas was back up and causing frosts to build up between accumulator and compresor inlet.

  • This system is over-charged.........should have excessive high pressure .Recover ,vacuum and recharge with the proper amount of freon.

  • yea most of u r idiots cause u aint got enough info to even begin troubleshooting this problem! I can think of at least 10 different things that could cause this but I have no clue which one it could be until i get some pressure temperature readings and evaluate the entire system! ROOKIES!!!

  • do you need to check out the presures when the low presures is come very low in the high too high exist restriction in someplace

  • restriction on capilar orfice,dryer,

  • this heat pump is low in refrigerant....

  • this is what my Trane xli was doing in heat mode was frosting up, was low on 410a, soon as they added it the heat got warmer and the frost melted

  • i am a hvac tech in training and i can tell u thats under charged im geussing that is a r 22 sytems also u should clean all fins such as the condsser and replace a fliters and it should run like a charm

  • how can any of us even begin to tell whats happening if no pertinent information has been posted?

  • It exist a possibility of refrigerant shortage. or any restriction of air in the evaporator like dirty air filter or coil with some debris

  • change your air filter or clean your inside coil or check your fan speed or dirty blower wheel you have an air restriction inside

  • I believe the unit is over charged. The receiver is flooded, causing the compressor to slug liquid. This can cause damage if left untreated. The best way to check the charge in winter is to wrap the condensor in a blanket so that the coil is completely blocked, Next check your superheat requirements. Run the unit in cool and check superheat. Remove excess refrigerant and re check. I also advise you to install a TX valve, a sight glass and a liquid line filter drier. Good luck

  • You should also post to DrZarkloff on YouTube. He's an AC Tech and is real helpful.

  • Does this unit have a TXV a the condenser? I live in FL and I see this all the time during the "heating" season. The TXV power head can corrode and rupture. This can cause the txv to close completely and restrict the refrigerant flow back to the compressor.

  • My condenser does not have a TXV it is a fixed orifice. I still think your theory could be correct as far as what is happening. Do you think it would help if the orifice was replaced with a TXV? We have opende the orifice up and there was not restriction, could the orifice be the wrong size or is this to be expected because of it.

  • it might be your j tube is bad in your accumulator because the refrigerant is not frosting up before ...just after

  • Since then it has been months and now it is in AC mode. Taking readings of High pressure and ambient temperature it shows that it is low again. Chart says it should have a reading of 214PSIG and I'm getting a reading of 175. I am beginning to believe I have a small leak somewhere...

  • The unit was running in heat mode. 2 problems were discovered. First a mismatch though I have been told oversizing evaperator coil is not uncommon. Second it was low on charge. After new evaperator was installed the refrigerant was weighed in. To the techs dismay, the Ruud chart for proper pressures with the outside ambient temperature and suction line temperature it was still undercharged. Tech added more refrigerant to reach what the chart required.

  • is this unit running in heat or cool ? What is the outdoor and indoor temperature?

  • The accumulator is doing its job (collecting any liquid refrigerant and slowly metering it back to the compressor to avoid any damage). You need to find out why you have a floodback problem. Start with the air flow (filter, coil, collapsed return duct.....etc) then have the refrigerant charge checked by a professional.

  • restriction of air, txv clogg, filter... filter drier cloggest, low charge, etc

  • I don't know what you want to accomplish by this. Are you a homeowner who wants to save a buck, so you'll ask this question over the internet, and pick (what you think) the best answer is and try to do it yourself.

    Or an inexperienced tech who doesn't know what to do. Call a reliable service tech.

  • @SNL0907

    I was just looking for help because none of the techs that came out knew what was wrong.

  • First thing to check is for air restriction across coil in air handler.

  • txv or piston

  • Very strange symptoms for a heat pump system running in heat mode. It looks like a cooling system running in cool mode, with low ambient and indoor temps. System charge and/or indoor coil metering device may be compromised.

    Confirm thermostat wiring and compatibility/programming. Rheem/Ruud/WeatherKing equipment require the reversing valve to be energized during call for heat.

    Too many variables to be able to diagnose the problem from this single video.

  • Check the low side pressure

  • is this in heat mode? if so id say you have a low charge.

  • Could be from over charging, liquid floodback in to compressor .. bad txv if one is installed in that unit...plus there is a screen inside of accumulator that could be clogged

  • 1 dirty filter 2 indoor evap coil dirty low air flow!

  • It's a Ruud Achiever 14, 4 ton. I have ordered a few HVAC tools to diagnose this problem myself before I have another tech come out. I will check for restrictions with a digital thermometer with clamps, as well as checking superheat and sub cooling. On another forum the someone else said it may be the accumulator. Another observation at startup was a screeching noise that lasts for about 3 seconds, it's coming from the liquid line at the air handler, like a pressure noise. Maybe TXV?

  • It's a Ruud Achiever 14, 4 ton. I have ordered a few HVAC tools to diagnose this problem myself before I have another tech come out. I will check for restrictions with a digital thermometer with clamps, as well as checking superheat and sub cooling. On another forum the someone else said it may be the accumulator.Another observation at startup was a screeching noise that lasts for about 3 seconds, it's coming from the liquid line at the air handler, like a pressure noise. Maybe TXV?

  • Oh it's one of those really tiny Ruud models. The camera angle confused me.

  • What type of heat pump is this? A side-discharge? What brand?

  • Restriction in the accumulator

  • Could easily be result of a dirty air filter, dirty coil, low freon charge, Indoor blower motor may not be running for starters. In all these cases, it is harmful to the compressor. Only super heated dry refrigerant should enter the compressor. Start with changing the air filter, and make sure your indoor unit is moving air (feel an air vent). If possible check for a clean coil. Otherwise your gonna need to call a tech.

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