I've tried using that darn string to pull excess jacket off a bunch of times, and always end up cutting my fingers!
Not 100% sure about the insulation thing, I know for cat6 there's a center insulator to help achieve some performance metrics.
Regardless, it doesn't much matter in this case, cause this stuff is all designed for residential anyway. As long as the guys get the colors and pairings correct, the electronics tend to work!
The thing you cut that you referred to as insulation is not insulation. Its a pull string. You can strip the 2 inches off, use the pull string to assure that you are beyond the point where you MAY have nicked the wire and go from there. Very useful especially if you need to terminate on a panel and you need to remove more jacket. I use it in both applications because i never trust the cutter.
About 3 years ago I wired my whole house with CAT5. Out of the 10 RJ45 connectors I installed, about 3 still work properly. The rest have over time gotten loose and have to be bent and twisted to work. I'm defintely gonna try the EZ connectors!
You'd have to dig back in the annals of history for the reasons behind "A" and "B" - I dunno.
It's just the way the OnQ folks set up the modules. Always "A". My intuition tells me you could sort out how to do it with the "B" scheme - it is just copper after all. But why bother.
Thanks for your help. This was a lot easier than I thought with your help. But why use 568A versus 568B? I heard something about backwards compatibility but I'm not sure if A or B is backwards compatibile....
The EIA/TIA 568 standard is "A" fo all new wiring. The Feds spec 568A for all contracts. Even though "B" is still the most popular!
3buffalo13 1 year ago
Good video, but 100 ez's cost 70 bucks 100 reg rj's cost only1 buck, learn to use reg tips and SAVE money. Plus the ez tips are not oxygen sealed.
Nigelk007 1 year ago
I've tried using that darn string to pull excess jacket off a bunch of times, and always end up cutting my fingers!
Not 100% sure about the insulation thing, I know for cat6 there's a center insulator to help achieve some performance metrics.
Regardless, it doesn't much matter in this case, cause this stuff is all designed for residential anyway. As long as the guys get the colors and pairings correct, the electronics tend to work!
kerek1369 1 year ago
The thing you cut that you referred to as insulation is not insulation. Its a pull string. You can strip the 2 inches off, use the pull string to assure that you are beyond the point where you MAY have nicked the wire and go from there. Very useful especially if you need to terminate on a panel and you need to remove more jacket. I use it in both applications because i never trust the cutter.
tileteam1 2 years ago
About 3 years ago I wired my whole house with CAT5. Out of the 10 RJ45 connectors I installed, about 3 still work properly. The rest have over time gotten loose and have to be bent and twisted to work. I'm defintely gonna try the EZ connectors!
NadimAJ 2 years ago
Very helpful. Thank you.
P3C4LFE 2 years ago
nice video but its tiny
LiquidRetro 3 years ago
You'd have to dig back in the annals of history for the reasons behind "A" and "B" - I dunno.
It's just the way the OnQ folks set up the modules. Always "A". My intuition tells me you could sort out how to do it with the "B" scheme - it is just copper after all. But why bother.
kerek1369 3 years ago
Thanks for your help. This was a lot easier than I thought with your help. But why use 568A versus 568B? I heard something about backwards compatibility but I'm not sure if A or B is backwards compatibile....
standardeviant 3 years ago