Added: 2 years ago
From: AtticFoil
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  • Ed, I live in AZ and desperately need to do this to my attic. It reaches 180 up there and our electric bill hits $400 some months in a 1700 sq ft house. And we keep the thermostat at 78-80. We have the cellulose insulation along the bottom, but I'm sure that could use an upgrade as well. My question is, would it be wise to put an attic fan up there as well, to help disperse the hot air?

  • @tdennison22 An attic fan may (or may not) be your best option. You don't want to mix exhaust vents. Normally on higher pitch roofs, I like wind turbines - they work great, are easy to install and don't use electricity. On lower pitch roofs, I like ridge vent (assuming you've got enough ridge). First, I'd check to make sure you have soffit vents that are clear and open. Go to my blog RadiantBarrierGuru(d0t) com and read about proper attic ventilation or call us 800-595-8772 for more help.

  • If the foil radiant barrier is 97% reflective but their are multiple gaps in the application as shown in the video what percentage of the radiant heat is actually getting reflected as it must be less due to the lack of coverage?

  • @CrazyTexan Yes, in a cathedral ceiling you will have some thermal bypass from the rafters where three is no AtticFoil® Radiant Barrier. The foil areas will still reflect 97% and you will have some places without any reflectivity. Actual results will vary. For example we have many customers who only put up foil on a West or South slope of their roof and see great results. Radiant Barrier has a cumulative effect, the more coverage the better results. But partial coverage is better than nothing.

  • @CrazyTexan Yes, radiant barrier has a cumulative effect. On any one spot, it is reflecting 97% of the heat coming off the roof. The TOTAL heat being reflected is based on the percentage of coverage. 70% coverage = about 70% of total heat reflection from entering the structure. The more coverage the better.

  • great install

  • I have a house built in 1960 where the copper plumbing runs through the trusses about 6 - 8 inches from the inside of the roof. (Cold water is scalding in the summer, hot water is freezing in the winter). Even after I insulate the water pipes, it seems to me that if I install the foil, it will trap it the heat and cold even worse. Do you recommend a different install method for the foil, or some heavy-duty insulation around the water pipes?

  • @mmd1954 There is really no such thing as "Trapping" heat. It is always moving from a hot area to a colder area. If you can keep your attic cooler, then you will keep every thing inside the attic cooler including the pipes in the summer. Installing radiant barrier should definitely help keep the water cooler.

  • Not much- foil is pretty much foil. You could use "regular" foil but it has virtually no strength and is not perforated to allow moisture to pass through. You never want to "trap" moisture. AtticFoil is foil attached to a heavyweight woven tarp like material. This will give it strength to hold up with staples. "Regular" foil will fall down. Especially if you ever get a "critter" in your attic. It will ALL come down.

  • Great install

  • what is the difference between this foil you use here,and an Aluminium foil use to wrap food ?

  • I'm so glad I found this video because the other methods I've found are much more labor intensive and time consuming. Thank you!

  • do you cut the 40 foot length in the attic or outside and bring it up??

    Great video btw.

  • @rclark23 Generally, it's easier to cut large pieces outside the attic several at a time. Visit AtticFoil (dot) com for complete installation instructions.

  • I have a roof with a very high pitch.  Is it recommended to have a professional install it?

  • @monkeyman1140 For high pitched roofs check out AtticFoil(dot)com and look at the Flat-Top Method on the Tall Attics Page. This method keeps you from having to use any ladders in your attic. Basically you create a flat grid across the attic about 7 ft. high. Then run the foil up the slopes and across the flat part. Works great.

  • I just had a quote for my attic and the guy said they cover the attic flooring, not the roof. You covered the attic roof, does it matter?????

  • @mossy112965 It really depends on your particular home. Visit AtticFoilcom and look at the page - Best Install Method for more info.

  • I did this to my net-zero solar powered home and it makes a huge difference...other ideas can be seen in a video I made called, "Preparing for peak oil"....

  • Does it make a difference which way the shiny side is facing?

  • Actually both sides are shiny, so it does not matter. Sometimes one side will look a little shinier due to the manufacturing process, but both sides are the same.

  • What if I don't have a ridge vent? Should I cover the peak, unlike the installation in the video? Is the point to cover as much as possible without cutting off air ventilation in the attic?

  • No, do not cover the peak. You should always create a path for air to flow up and out behind the foil and the roof deck. Hot air will naturally "pool" in the top of your attic. Then whatever exhaust vents you have (wind turbines, static vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc.) will allow the air to get out.

  • Cool! It doesn't look as hard as I thought. But I thought it needed to be a bit more air tight. I wonder how long an attic like that took.

  • The difficulty is usually directly related to how easy (or hard) it is to move around. Definitely NOT air tight. You are not trying to control or even restrict air movement. In fact, you want to make sure to let air flow easily from the bottom to the top of your attic. How long? - the better part of day. Some sections go fast and others are slower. Since they are professionals, the must get EVERY little nook and cranny. Most DIY jobs just skip the small areas that are hard to reach.

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