Hello I've had this kit for a short while and I am wondering if you have had any problem with the safety selector mine will go to semi and auto but not safe ( or save as it is printed on the gun). Also have you had to buy spare parts for this gun because I had to get a replacement kit because mine had broken handguards missing pins and a few washers along with a bent handguard ring?
thanks for the series. i watched all of them. i'm building my woc challenge kit now. that's awesome you pointed out that little grub screw for the sear because it definitely isn't in the manual. which by the way, i don't think the manual sucks either. and you're also right about a heavier buffer breaking the buffer lock. i put in a stronger spring and aluminum buffer and not more than two magazines later, snapped the buffer lock. good call!
@mentalmetal1 you're welcome bro. you just have to think these things through. with a steel lock it could work.but you'd need the whole thing made of steel.
I'm guessing you have an AR-15. I built an AR from all parts, so do you think that this build will go quicker? Only parts I may have trouble with are the auto-sear and the bolt.
@TheJedi270 hey i just ordered this with 2 king arms gbb magazines that fit WA / KA / Inokatsu. It also says its compatible with other m4. Would that fit in this gun? Please Answer.
@XrayAirsoft Some guys report no flaws with the King Arms mags while more than that claim that the King Arms feed lips drag the bottom of the bolt carrier ripping the gas flow bucking out. BUT..... they also say changing the bolt to a King Arms solves the issue and then the mags are Flawless
Stay far away from cheap you'll only have problems. The GHK requires mods to get em to fit. The King Arms requires a King Arms bolt. Some have had no issues but more have. A friend of mine has nothing but problems from prowin's. And his G&P's are bad he's sending me one to film and test. But I've had good results with beta project and he's swearing on KJW I'd suggest either one KJW or Beta Project "P" Mag or "E" Mag's But cheap will only be a waste of money
Dude, mine was the same, only 1 ring which is strange but i built it with just 1. This part took me ages to figure out by the way, in the manual it doesn't tell you that they go inside, just looks like you have to hold them all together whilst putting them in the receiver, took me at least 2days :p.
My fire selector is really, really hard to switch from safe back to semi, any ideas?
Really need ur part 2 as the next part (i think) is the part that engages the mag which i had a problem with.
@Rebo00 Yeah the mag release needs to be screwed all the way in and the selector needs break in time. Plus to be sure check the small spring detent that slips into each notch just give it all a once over one more time. when in doubt don't force it disassemble and do it again
@TheJedi270 from what i remember on the selector when in Safe the plastic detent goes a lot further in than when on semi and auto.
I checked ur second vid out and it doesn't include putting the bolt release catch in.
Thats where im stuck, the block that has the bolt release catch on top of it and when the hammer hits it it engages the gas valve on the mag. Mine came pre-assembled in the bag but the middle part that the hammer hits wasn't inside it like it should be, urs the same?
@Rebo00 yes thats the firing pin you have to take that apart install the pin and spring then back together installing the mag release first. they shouldnt call it a pin it's like a fat stumpy stick lol. I can't figure out why they assembled it with it not already in there though lol. I left it out too was like now what the hell. lol looked down and I'm like WTH im a retard.
lol, I did the exact same thing, click (why isn't it working) check manual yeah i was wondering what that piece was.
I don't think i can take it apart, i'll PM you the link to the picture but the screw that holds it together is just a circle, not an allen key or screw driver from what i can see.
I'll take another look tonight when i get in from work and i'll take another pic.
@Rebo00 lol I felt like a total goober I think Thats why I lost that clip lol like I can't show that. you may have to drill it out and then hit the hardware store with bins full of scews to get a new one but be careful not to use too big a bit. if you screw it up your gonna be buying a steel bot stop sooner than you think. But hell you were gonna get one anyway right
It's my first GBBR too thats why i got it in the challenge kit form, i wanted to know i could build one myself, the prebuilt one was only like an extra £30, i might stick to them from now on :p.
Cheers for all your help with this and i'll let you know how it goes :-)
Now i've got another :(, when i pull back the charged handle and there is a mag in the bolt stays back as its supposed to, however when i press the bolt release it only goes about half way because from what i can see the mag is stopping it, as soon as i release the mag the bolt carries on to the front.
@TheJedi270 question; was the pin that kept the trigger assembly a struggle for you to get in? I tried putting the pin in throught the trigger piece alone and it wouldn't go all the way through. I haven't tried using force with it.
Hey Jedi, where did you order your steel internals? Im looking to buy them but no idea where. All I can find is steel bolt stops, hammers, and triggers but I want to replace EVERYTHING inside with steel ( I want to run with a heavy bolt carrier and I know the internals wont last long with stock internals).
Do stupid question but I'll ask anyway. Putting my weapon together with you on the vid and went to find part 2 but can't find it. Is it not up yet or am I just not finding it
Its always good to lube/oil all parts in a gbbr that move or have metal to metal contact. Keep all orings lubed with silicone oil/spray. And with this kit be prepared to replace some internal parts. Charging handle,and buffer lock, bolt stop housing, all broke within a week and about 1k rounds thru it. Internals are made of cheap diecast alloy. Upgrade to steel G&P trigger group. Also inner barrel is a 6.08. I would upgrade that to a tbb.stock hop up works fine. And pick up some g&p magpul mags
@illest408 Yeah no kidding. I put less than 50 rounds threw mine before the tip on the buffer lock broke off and floated around the lower for a while. Didn't know until I opened it up after a few shackdown rounds at a local indoor place. Anyone ordering this gun should be prepared to replace everything inside the lower. I don't know what material it's internals are advertised as but it's definitely not steel. Maybe a cheap low grade aluminum or zinc alloy.
@capnapalm Its G&P's Aluminum which is better than the pot metal parts that come from WE or AGM. These should last you 5k rounds but after that they tend to break and once one thing breaks, its just a matter of time for the others. So I heard. Mines still going strong.
@KagaKiyomitsu Aluminum it may be but they are many grades of aluminum that range it strength from pot metal to almost as strong as steel. Just because it's aluminum does not mean it's strong. The grade matters just as much as the material.
excellent video! for sure. i`ll use it when i have my woc.... i love Lego!!! lol, this kit is a very nice way to learn everything you need to know about the gun in the case of a malfunction, and of course is cheap!!!!! when i was looking for info i saw that the internals of the original WA is hardened aluminum, the WOC X series are hardened aluminum too, so it is the same material??? in ehobbyasia, there is a kit of hardened aluminum internals for WA...
@carlosojeda26 all assembled WOC's are steel internals but the exterior is exactly the same. The X series was marketed as hardened but not to the extent the kit ones are but same base materials
Don't know why people say the manual is useless. Some parts are not really clear but it's not impossible to figure out. I just finished building mine a few days ago and it took me about 3.5 hours. I've never seen the inside of a real, GBB, or aeg m4. Each step has all it's parts in it's own bag and there is a picture of each step fully assembled. Very easy to see where parts go. The manual does need to be updated. There were a couple set screws that were not shown in the manual.
most airsofters who run into the problem with simple manuals complain about it to cover up their main problem that comprehension isnt their best friend.
@bed792 basically it is. it's not technicaly hard it's just small parts and stubborn. I'm sure it's easier at the factory with specialized tool and such but it's fun as all hell. Lol I'm ready to build another one! An AK kit would be awesome and WE and KWA should offer one too.
@TheJedi270 I've purchased this and currently awaiting for it to arrive from Evike to UPS to my house, and should I lubricate these parts where the metal touch metal? If you can give me a list it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the video, I know this will help me very much! First of it's kind on YouTube.
Thanks for this man, with your vids even I could figure out how to build one of these.
SgtGrimmVegas 1 week ago
i really liked what you said about the manual and the people speaking english. They are trying and people are just so mean. :)
eagle2896E28 3 weeks ago
Hello I've had this kit for a short while and I am wondering if you have had any problem with the safety selector mine will go to semi and auto but not safe ( or save as it is printed on the gun). Also have you had to buy spare parts for this gun because I had to get a replacement kit because mine had broken handguards missing pins and a few washers along with a bent handguard ring?
shadowkiller499 3 weeks ago
It says Gas Block Back
AirsoftLife1 1 month ago
thanks for the series. i watched all of them. i'm building my woc challenge kit now. that's awesome you pointed out that little grub screw for the sear because it definitely isn't in the manual. which by the way, i don't think the manual sucks either. and you're also right about a heavier buffer breaking the buffer lock. i put in a stronger spring and aluminum buffer and not more than two magazines later, snapped the buffer lock. good call!
mentalmetal1 1 month ago
@mentalmetal1 you're welcome bro. you just have to think these things through. with a steel lock it could work.but you'd need the whole thing made of steel.
TheJedi270 1 month ago
I'm guessing you have an AR-15. I built an AR from all parts, so do you think that this build will go quicker? Only parts I may have trouble with are the auto-sear and the bolt.
MCArmory 1 month ago
So in a sense it's like a lego set?
Fluffyboy75 1 month ago
@Fluffyboy75 lol well kinda
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270 hey i just ordered this with 2 king arms gbb magazines that fit WA / KA / Inokatsu. It also says its compatible with other m4. Would that fit in this gun? Please Answer.
XrayAirsoft 1 month ago
@XrayAirsoft Some guys report no flaws with the King Arms mags while more than that claim that the King Arms feed lips drag the bottom of the bolt carrier ripping the gas flow bucking out. BUT..... they also say changing the bolt to a King Arms solves the issue and then the mags are Flawless
TheJedi270 1 month ago
I plan on trying this out, anyone know what the cheapest mags I could get for this are?
mipyman2 1 month ago
Stay far away from cheap you'll only have problems. The GHK requires mods to get em to fit. The King Arms requires a King Arms bolt. Some have had no issues but more have. A friend of mine has nothing but problems from prowin's. And his G&P's are bad he's sending me one to film and test. But I've had good results with beta project and he's swearing on KJW I'd suggest either one KJW or Beta Project "P" Mag or "E" Mag's But cheap will only be a waste of money
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270 so get beta project or kjw mags wait i though kjw used a different gas system then wa
mipyman2 1 month ago
@SpartanDoctrine Thank you for your input if we all chip in our experience on this build then it will be easier for all
TheJedi270 1 month ago
i want a texan accent =O
alexelouati 1 month ago
Dude, mine was the same, only 1 ring which is strange but i built it with just 1. This part took me ages to figure out by the way, in the manual it doesn't tell you that they go inside, just looks like you have to hold them all together whilst putting them in the receiver, took me at least 2days :p.
My fire selector is really, really hard to switch from safe back to semi, any ideas?
Really need ur part 2 as the next part (i think) is the part that engages the mag which i had a problem with.
Rebo00 1 month ago
@Rebo00 Yeah the mag release needs to be screwed all the way in and the selector needs break in time. Plus to be sure check the small spring detent that slips into each notch just give it all a once over one more time. when in doubt don't force it disassemble and do it again
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270 from what i remember on the selector when in Safe the plastic detent goes a lot further in than when on semi and auto.
I checked ur second vid out and it doesn't include putting the bolt release catch in.
Thats where im stuck, the block that has the bolt release catch on top of it and when the hammer hits it it engages the gas valve on the mag. Mine came pre-assembled in the bag but the middle part that the hammer hits wasn't inside it like it should be, urs the same?
Rebo00 1 month ago
Comment removed
Rebo00 1 month ago
@Rebo00 yes thats the firing pin you have to take that apart install the pin and spring then back together installing the mag release first. they shouldnt call it a pin it's like a fat stumpy stick lol. I can't figure out why they assembled it with it not already in there though lol. I left it out too was like now what the hell. lol looked down and I'm like WTH im a retard.
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270
lol, I did the exact same thing, click (why isn't it working) check manual yeah i was wondering what that piece was.
I don't think i can take it apart, i'll PM you the link to the picture but the screw that holds it together is just a circle, not an allen key or screw driver from what i can see.
I'll take another look tonight when i get in from work and i'll take another pic.
Rebo00 1 month ago
@Rebo00 lol I felt like a total goober I think Thats why I lost that clip lol like I can't show that. you may have to drill it out and then hit the hardware store with bins full of scews to get a new one but be careful not to use too big a bit. if you screw it up your gonna be buying a steel bot stop sooner than you think. But hell you were gonna get one anyway right
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270
It's my first GBBR too thats why i got it in the challenge kit form, i wanted to know i could build one myself, the prebuilt one was only like an extra £30, i might stick to them from now on :p.
Cheers for all your help with this and i'll let you know how it goes :-)
Andy
Rebo00 1 month ago
@Rebo00 Great I hope you like the gun but It's just as good as any pre-built gun
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270 Ok sorted the issue i had :-).
Now i've got another :(, when i pull back the charged handle and there is a mag in the bolt stays back as its supposed to, however when i press the bolt release it only goes about half way because from what i can see the mag is stopping it, as soon as i release the mag the bolt carries on to the front.
Any ideas?
Rebo00 1 month ago
@TheJedi270
@TheJedi270 Here's the parts im talking about.
Pieces 12-11, 12-7, 12-10 were assembled in the factory with teh spring (12-9) inside, not by me.
And the screw holding them together is rounded so can't be unscrewed so i can then rebuild it with the piece in the middle.
I have a pic of the part but its on photobucket and it won't let me add it in comment
Rebo00 1 month ago
were is part 2
airsoftkool 1 month ago
@airsoftkool should be up tomorrow still working on quality
TheJedi270 1 month ago
@TheJedi270 question; was the pin that kept the trigger assembly a struggle for you to get in? I tried putting the pin in throught the trigger piece alone and it wouldn't go all the way through. I haven't tried using force with it.
MrShanetheRobber 1 month ago
Hey Jedi, where did you order your steel internals? Im looking to buy them but no idea where. All I can find is steel bolt stops, hammers, and triggers but I want to replace EVERYTHING inside with steel ( I want to run with a heavy bolt carrier and I know the internals wont last long with stock internals).
KagaKiyomitsu 1 month ago
@comminus1 he's having issues uploading it
cfh935 1 month ago
Where is part 2????
comminus1 1 month ago
@comminus1 Just uploaded part 2 bro enjoy it
TheJedi270 1 month ago
Lol nope, I'm stuck with that last piece with the spring that needs to be bent backwards along the trigger assembly; kicking my butt
cfh935 1 month ago
Hey I was thinking about ordering this kit, hows the quality of the internals ?
Art397R 1 month ago
@Art397R they are good but will need to be upgraded to steel
TheJedi270 1 month ago
Do stupid question but I'll ask anyway. Putting my weapon together with you on the vid and went to find part 2 but can't find it. Is it not up yet or am I just not finding it
cfh935 1 month ago
@cfh935 I cant get it it to upload I've fought with it all week. any questions I can help. You should be on the upper right? It's way easy
TheJedi270 1 month ago
lol can you give me a list of tools you need, ima venture onto gbb's too, hope i don't fuck up the build!
cobrafriends 1 month ago
Its always good to lube/oil all parts in a gbbr that move or have metal to metal contact. Keep all orings lubed with silicone oil/spray. And with this kit be prepared to replace some internal parts. Charging handle,and buffer lock, bolt stop housing, all broke within a week and about 1k rounds thru it. Internals are made of cheap diecast alloy. Upgrade to steel G&P trigger group. Also inner barrel is a 6.08. I would upgrade that to a tbb.stock hop up works fine. And pick up some g&p magpul mags
illest408 2 months ago
@illest408 I like the Beta mags allot
TheJedi270 2 months ago
@illest408 Yeah no kidding. I put less than 50 rounds threw mine before the tip on the buffer lock broke off and floated around the lower for a while. Didn't know until I opened it up after a few shackdown rounds at a local indoor place. Anyone ordering this gun should be prepared to replace everything inside the lower. I don't know what material it's internals are advertised as but it's definitely not steel. Maybe a cheap low grade aluminum or zinc alloy.
capnapalm 1 month ago
@capnapalm Its G&P's Aluminum which is better than the pot metal parts that come from WE or AGM. These should last you 5k rounds but after that they tend to break and once one thing breaks, its just a matter of time for the others. So I heard. Mines still going strong.
KagaKiyomitsu 1 month ago
@KagaKiyomitsu Aluminum it may be but they are many grades of aluminum that range it strength from pot metal to almost as strong as steel. Just because it's aluminum does not mean it's strong. The grade matters just as much as the material.
capnapalm 1 month ago
@capnapalm in strength*
capnapalm 1 month ago
ha ya my kit was missing a lock ring to.
ManMuffin1013 2 months ago
Just ordered this, so this vid will help. Looking foward to the other parts. Keep it up bro
TheDonOfAirsoft 2 months ago
excellent video! for sure. i`ll use it when i have my woc.... i love Lego!!! lol, this kit is a very nice way to learn everything you need to know about the gun in the case of a malfunction, and of course is cheap!!!!! when i was looking for info i saw that the internals of the original WA is hardened aluminum, the WOC X series are hardened aluminum too, so it is the same material??? in ehobbyasia, there is a kit of hardened aluminum internals for WA...
carlosojeda26 2 months ago
@carlosojeda26 all assembled WOC's are steel internals but the exterior is exactly the same. The X series was marketed as hardened but not to the extent the kit ones are but same base materials
TheJedi270 2 months ago
what parts should i upgrade?
cobrafriends 2 months ago
Yeah thats a big problem with the manual...you put all the internalts in and then you cant fit the selecter switch in....happened with me too
101stAirsoftDivision 2 months ago
Don't know why people say the manual is useless. Some parts are not really clear but it's not impossible to figure out. I just finished building mine a few days ago and it took me about 3.5 hours. I've never seen the inside of a real, GBB, or aeg m4. Each step has all it's parts in it's own bag and there is a picture of each step fully assembled. Very easy to see where parts go. The manual does need to be updated. There were a couple set screws that were not shown in the manual.
capnapalm 2 months ago
hi jedi fyi i put an a metal hard kick buffer and it worked well and i ran about 30 test rounds.
nyplayer72 2 months ago
@nyplayer72 I will I just dont trust the aluminum buffer lock. I will try it though thanks
TheJedi270 2 months ago
If we ever get invested with zombies I know who to call fps Russia and thejedi270 , Russia to shoot the zombies and Jedi270 to make more guns lol
JohnJayRambo1 2 months ago
most airsofters who run into the problem with simple manuals complain about it to cover up their main problem that comprehension isnt their best friend.
cb2k761 2 months ago
@cb2k761 lol well sometimes i think that but never say it.
TheJedi270 2 months ago
yeah that would be the shit ahha keep up the good work man love the vids
bed792 2 months ago
this is just like an oversized model kit ahha it looks straight forward as hell
bed792 2 months ago
@bed792 basically it is. it's not technicaly hard it's just small parts and stubborn. I'm sure it's easier at the factory with specialized tool and such but it's fun as all hell. Lol I'm ready to build another one! An AK kit would be awesome and WE and KWA should offer one too.
TheJedi270 2 months ago
@TheJedi270 I've purchased this and currently awaiting for it to arrive from Evike to UPS to my house, and should I lubricate these parts where the metal touch metal? If you can give me a list it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the video, I know this will help me very much! First of it's kind on YouTube.
MrShanetheRobber 2 months ago