I kinda feel that doing a more involved damaged unit would of suited this subject better. I know u get more in a classroom, but it would really help if say you would use a part that would be difficult to get underneath with the dolly. Also approaching a dent high and low spots: you might want to spray some neon stuff showing the 2 areas then adding a purple light. That way the pulling action will show the metal movement. just some thoughts I wanted to share: great job though, I enjoyed it
The old method of dent repair with a slide hammer was drilling holes into the panel then using a screw on the slide hammer to remove the dent. The stud welder avoids drilling holes which can weaken the panel, remove corrosion protection and be a starting point for rust. If not repaired properly also the holes can show through the repair area.
@WestPhillyBorn with some of the new thinner metal you do have to be careful. some technicians are even using a DA sander to remove the paint coatings. It takes a little longer, but it removes less metal.
i do prefer to pull the trigger on the spot welder for only about 1/2 second. the studs to pop off every now and then, but this helps when pulling them off. just a little jiggle and they are off "no hole no grinding no cutting". plus you can often reuse the studs.
What you mean by high area? the t pull is to pull the dent out right? is the high area visible which is why you are hammering it. High are an in a bump facing outward of the damage area?
Most dent consist of a low and a high area. The high area may or may not be very noticable. If you thing of throwing a rock into a lake, you notive that it causes the dip where the rock went in, but also it will cause a wave (high) area. Metal acts the same way. When it is pushed in in one area, it forces the metal have highs (waves) in other areas. Your direct damage is the low pint of impact and the high is your secondary damage. It take a little more focus to locate the secondary damage
A common mistake is to just work on the direct (low) damage and not the high areas. It is important to work on both areas at the same time. You want to push in on your highs as you pull out on your lows. This will allow the metal to return to it's origional shape with out forcing or streching the metal.
a quick little technique to find high and low spots if you didnt know is sanding the area. its easy to ID the high and low spots. high spots will not allow the sand paper to sand around it, low spots wont allow the sand paper to sand in it.
also i think it is a little more precise than a slide hammer for hard to get areas or for small dents that dont need much. you dont wanna slide hammer to hard or you will create a high spot which makes more work.
why not just fill it to start with ?
stevemostwanted 2 months ago
@stevemostwanted The dent was a little too deep to just fill. Thanks for watching.
ButlerCollision 1 month ago
@stevemostwanted because some people dont want to half ass things.
jacobstern14048 1 month ago
I kinda feel that doing a more involved damaged unit would of suited this subject better. I know u get more in a classroom, but it would really help if say you would use a part that would be difficult to get underneath with the dolly. Also approaching a dent high and low spots: you might want to spray some neon stuff showing the 2 areas then adding a purple light. That way the pulling action will show the metal movement. just some thoughts I wanted to share: great job though, I enjoyed it
invisible634 10 months ago
@invisible634 Thanks for the suggestions! Very helpful, I will have to try that!
ButlerCollision 9 months ago
can't u just use a makita sander instead of that grinder?
Xytos 11 months ago
@Xytos As long as you get the surface to the metal, the stud welder will work.
ButlerCollision 11 months ago
The old method of dent repair with a slide hammer was drilling holes into the panel then using a screw on the slide hammer to remove the dent. The stud welder avoids drilling holes which can weaken the panel, remove corrosion protection and be a starting point for rust. If not repaired properly also the holes can show through the repair area.
The use of the stud welder avoids these problems.
Great video as always keep them coming.
hatekhaos 1 year ago 2
@hatekhaos Thanks for watching!
ButlerCollision 1 year ago
@hatekhaos Thanks for the input!
ButlerCollision 11 months ago
instead of using 24 and worring about all that jbber jabber about paint, just use a 6 inch grinder with some 36, easier.
WestPhillyBorn 1 year ago
@WestPhillyBorn with some of the new thinner metal you do have to be careful. some technicians are even using a DA sander to remove the paint coatings. It takes a little longer, but it removes less metal.
ButlerCollision 1 year ago
@ButlerCollision
you know what, I never thought about that, usually I worked on trucks with 16 gauge or less
WestPhillyBorn 1 year ago
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to use gloves while using a grinder.
Kulawendin 1 year ago
This guy is a tool.
phantom240 1 year ago
Good video but the accent makes him sound like a drooling idiot. "Oh wait, I got no phone... 'cause I'm a pothole" LOL
GoanSmee9 1 year ago
@GoanSmee9 ouch!
ButlerCollision 1 year ago
i do prefer to pull the trigger on the spot welder for only about 1/2 second. the studs to pop off every now and then, but this helps when pulling them off. just a little jiggle and they are off "no hole no grinding no cutting". plus you can often reuse the studs.
1320kid 2 years ago
paintless dent repair could have done the job
thetazzbot 2 years ago
pdr wasnt the topic of the tutorial, and not what was being taught in the vid
1320kid 2 years ago
What you mean by high area? the t pull is to pull the dent out right? is the high area visible which is why you are hammering it. High are an in a bump facing outward of the damage area?
OaktownsGreatest 2 years ago
Most dent consist of a low and a high area. The high area may or may not be very noticable. If you thing of throwing a rock into a lake, you notive that it causes the dip where the rock went in, but also it will cause a wave (high) area. Metal acts the same way. When it is pushed in in one area, it forces the metal have highs (waves) in other areas. Your direct damage is the low pint of impact and the high is your secondary damage. It take a little more focus to locate the secondary damage
ButlerCollision 2 years ago
A common mistake is to just work on the direct (low) damage and not the high areas. It is important to work on both areas at the same time. You want to push in on your highs as you pull out on your lows. This will allow the metal to return to it's origional shape with out forcing or streching the metal.
ButlerCollision 2 years ago
a quick little technique to find high and low spots if you didnt know is sanding the area. its easy to ID the high and low spots. high spots will not allow the sand paper to sand around it, low spots wont allow the sand paper to sand in it.
rocker0912 2 years ago
What tool is that he is using? the thing he is substituting for a puller. The cork screw looking thingy.
OaktownsGreatest 2 years ago
It is just a T-puller. It just uses the force from the pull that you put on it. It helps eliminate popping or forcing the metal.
ButlerCollision 2 years ago
also i think it is a little more precise than a slide hammer for hard to get areas or for small dents that dont need much. you dont wanna slide hammer to hard or you will create a high spot which makes more work.
rocker0912 2 years ago
3seconds is way to long you only need to tap it
foxybrown2 2 years ago
Way Cool!
Les
bigblockmustang 3 years ago
(with a side cutter)
2HeavyChevy 3 years ago
If you grab the nail at the base and spin it you can reuse the nail and there is less to grind
2HeavyChevy 3 years ago