Encens Flamboyant by Annick Goutal: Perfume Review / Fragrance Review

[tanktop25]

how does this one compare to CdG Avignon?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@tanktop25 EF is more burnt pine-y, Avignon more incense + hint o' vanilla.

[ksleep3r]

could you do a review on myrrhe andante I love that stuff?

[dhoakohime]

@ksleep3r yes please! i bought it not long ago and at first i wasn't really sure if i liked it or not, as at first to me is smells super ashy. But then it slowly developes into something sweeter and very kind of..warm. My mom allways used to tell me "There u are with that incense again" every time i put it on, now she tells me she ADORES it...i guess it is not an "easy" fragrance. Nowadays it is my daily perfume and i LOOOVEEE it!! (for me...THIS one is the perfume Cleopatra would wear!)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@ksleep3r I do have a post on Myrrhe Ardente on my blog. Probably won't be doing a vid for it, but am planning to do a video for Dior Bois d'Argent, another gorgeous myrrh perfume you myrrh-luvvas should check out.

For me the Goutal myrrh is too root-beer sweet - just my personal taste.

[votejamie08]

The comments over this video are like poetry.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Hee-hee!

[DrMonstaa000]

@votejamie08 yeah I was ab out to write something about the message "Katie Puckrick SMELLS" in the beginning of the vid and then I saw this oasis of peace in the wild violent world of Youtube... and I thought "no I cannot". x)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@DrMonstaa000 Bless you!

[SandyMandy20]

It' s a really great fragrance. Actually the best one I've ever come across within 20+ years.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Oh, I love this one so much! And it's getting harder to find in the US.

[Bollywoodwonder9]

I haven't listened to a POSITIVE review of your yet! Now I just don't know what to get! :P but you def. seem to know you stuff

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Hey! I love Encens Flamboyant...I just like to use vivid analogies to give the idea of the smell.

[ccgirlxxx]

i can't believe you can say your catchphrase with a straight face. XD.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I'm laughing inside ;-)

[Mirabelle69]

But my favorite perfumes include frankincense, for it's upliffing effect.

Shalimar (Guerlain), Sacrebleu (parfums de nicolaï) (<- I can smell them for hours), Dzonkgha (Artisan parfumeur), Jubilation XXV (Amouage) (<- both from Bertrand Duchaufour).

Amouage is a hard-to-find brand (very expensive too), from Oman (United Arabe Emirate) whose perfume almost always used white frankincense as signature, a local ingredient. Interesting.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Frankincense is VERY uplifting - which almost seems counter-intuitive, because it has dark, occult/goth associations. I'm sure I'm a freak for loving it in the summer! I find it really cuts through the heat and is refreshing, almost in the way menthol can be.

The whole Amouage line is hugely high-quality, and I'd characterize their approach as "more is more". The fragrances are baroquely ornate.

You can find them online, or at Scent Bar, Aedes De Venustas, Les Senteurs, among other places.

[Mirabelle69]

@KatiePuckrikSmells If you crave for frankincense even in summer, let me recommand you "acqua allegoria flora nerolia". It's a discontinued Guerlain acqua allegoria that can be found still cheap on ebay (but not on ebay france, restriction on LVMH since lawsuit). It's 70% orange blossom 30% frankincense. It begins with a carotty oppening, then neroli, and a point of frankincense. But you must like the carotty-iris that stay always underneath the neroli.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

@Mirabelle69 That is a very intriguing sounding composition indeed! Thank you so much for the tip.

[Mirabelle69]

I've no advise for a typical good Frankincense fragrance. Because I think, maybe, you can't made a perfume only made of it.

There is another "pine encense" by "l'artisan parfumeur" : "passage d'enfer", more demure (maybe to much :( ), with aloe vera smell, with a salty side.

Among Goutal orientals, I prefer "myrrhe ardente", (and "la myrrhe" of Lutens). Myrrhe and Frankincense, both incenses, are often used together to cancel theirs religious side (myrrhe : orthodox chuch, encens : catholic)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Oh, isn't Myrrhe Ardente insane? It smells like a vanilla milkshake mixed with mushrooms: sweet, milky and dank. I don't know if I love it or want to throw up. And then I go back in for another sniff. This fascination's gonna kill me.

I own of bottle of L'Artisan's Passage d'Enfer, but I've never really warmed up to it. It won't open up and let  me into its secrets.

[Appalachianitis]

Interesting.

I used to swing by Whole Foods quite frequently and would check out their cheese section just for kicks. The most disgusting was a brown cheese from Spain. It looked like something a pet would leave on your lawn. I wasn't disappointed; it was nasty. So every time I was there, I'd stop and catch a little whiff of it and giggle and think to myself, "Gross!"

After awhile it didn't stink to me quite so much, and the thrills were over.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Isn't that funny? It's like you can't quite believe something is so YAK - so you go in for another snort.

[Mirabelle69]

French always say : "The more a cheese stinks, the better it tastes" because even French need courage to eat their stinking cheeses :p (and it's true : cheese absolutely not taste what they smell)

But afterall, you need to try cheese on a bread, it's an alchemy between the french bread and the cheese.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I had some stinky cheese residue on my fingers the other day, and found myself thinking, "Why am I smelling gardenia?". Because there is a faint blue cheese note in the thick odor of gardenia. Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia plays this up in its opening salvo.

[Mirabelle69]

You must not take the bitter (and rooty earthy) smell as a flaw : it's the myrrh itself. (etymologie : mrr means bitter)

You find it disguised too in "la myrrhe" (Lutens).

Myrrh is like frankincence : a smell for perfume geeks, because it takes time to appreciate.

In Goutal, we're used to oddballs anyway : the medicinal side and the overall structure of their myrrh reminds me "sables", wich I like too.

IMHO frankincence smells mystic in a patriarch way, and myrrh magical in a feminine way.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Oh yes, I recognized that dank bitterness as myrrh.

The maple aspect of Sables puts me in mind of the herb fenugreek, which I use in my Indian cooking. Did you hear the story of the mysterious maple smell that wafted over certain New York neighborhoods on and off for several years? Turned out it came from a New Jersey factory processing fenugreek seeds!

I agree, frankincense feels male, and myrrh female. I don't know why.

[Mirabelle69]

I didn't know this story.

I just understand I misunderstood the world "fenugreek", I thought it was fennel :D (or at least the seed of fennel). (fenugrec, and fenouil, in fr.)

No wonder I didn't link the leek smell of fennel and the maple !

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I love the idea of "messages in a perfume bottle": the ingredients canceling out the other's religious symbolism. I wonder what religion "vanilla milkshake" represents? That's the one I want to belong to!

[Mirabelle69]

Octavian coifan (1000fragrances blog) recently read that if maltol (sugar smell) were everywhere in perfume, it's would be due to it's sedative effect.

Would vanilla milkshake help to relax , and "pick the day" ?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Ha-ha! To paraphrase Marx: "Vanilla is the opium of the people".

[Mirabelle69]

We should build a cult :p

[doremifasoinlove]

with a pyro and a box of matches! LOL

this perfume sounds pretty heavy for summer but, i do like incense. Thanks for the review!

[taniaboox]

can you make your videos more spontaneous?

i lose interest and stop listening after 15secs

[orangeapplecandy2009]

amazing!

[Appalachianitis]

I purchased Series 3: Incense Avignon.

I'm not able to comment on each subtlety of the various notes within it, sorry. I'm like a guy in that way!

"Like it."

"Don't like it."

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I adore Comme des Garcons' Avignon! It was only in the last year or so that I picked up on the chamomile in it. That's because I was washing my hands with a liquid soap, and thought, "Why does this smell like incense?". I looked at the soap bottle, and it was chamomile! The nose learns something new every day.

I find that I like to emphasize the vanilla note in Avignon by layering it with L'Artisan Parfumeur Vanillia.

So, which is it for Avignon? Like it, or don't like it?

[Appalachianitis]

Love it! I love all three of the incense note perfumes I tried: Incense Extreme, Avignon and L'Air du Desert Marocain.

Thanks again!

[Mirabelle69]

I've tried it 2 times, on blotters. And I did'nt catch its sens. Almost too bold (and ozonic???) to make me dream. And more practically, I could not understand the notes in it, not knowing where it begins and where it ends I have been unable to read it.

But I'll try again, and again, and again ;)

:D the story of the soap happened to me too : mine reminds me some of my fav Guerlain. The errors to identify notes too.

I read Chamomille is often use with rose, like "une rose" (malle)

[Appalachianitis]

Oh, this sounds wonderful. I didn't realize that incense was gaining so much popularity lately. I used to live close to a shop that sold essential oils, soaps, etc. and it introduced me to resin incenses. I fell in love.

Thank you, Katie for introducing me to lucky scent. ( I mentioned that you referred me) I picked up a few that you recommended, (Tauer Incense Extreme, Series 3: Incense and L'Air du Desert Marocain ) and they're wonderful!

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Isn't Lucky Scent fab? I'm like a kid in a candy shop when I go to their store, Scent Bar.

Sounds like you've got your incense fix for a while, there! But there are always new ones to try, unfortunately for the bank balance.

Which Comme des Garcons incense did you get?

[TakuuFTR]

sound nice ?>D

[ILoveEdwardCullen517]

yes... this perfume did have a rather charred smell don't you agree? (I used a tester of it in the mall today)

[wingsofnature101]

Still lovin' your reviews ;)

[JessiLune]

Better than standing over a campfire and inhaling repeatedly to get that 'woodsy pine' scent (past experience speaks there.)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Do you know what's interesting? "Perfume" literally means "through smoke", and in ancient middle eastern cultures, the method of "applying fragrance" was to pass the incense burner from person to person. That way, their robes and garments would be permeated by the fragrant smoke. Just like you and the campfire!

[ooloi82]

I found it a really literal (flamboyant, even) incense when I tested this one. Demeter-stylez. But I love smoke and incense so that was OK by me. Your short list makes me want to test Le Labo. I keep hearing about this stuff.

What's the deal with Bal a' Versailles? I keep seing bottles of this dirt cheap at my local department store, I'm drawn to the amazing gaudy bottle but haven't sniffed it yet - what's so great about it? (I've heard rumours of it featuring some interesting 'skanky' notes)

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

The Le Labo frags are all distinctive and high quality. I can tell you more about them if you have specific questions.

The whoop about Bal à Versailles is the mesmerizing contrast between the summer's day florals at the top, supported by hay and leather notes, with a good ol' dose of civet at the bottom. There's your skank. The overall effect is of being in a clean horse barn with the doors open to the flower meadow. And it's so delightfully affordable! I have the parfum, but may get the edt...

[ooloi82]

I have so many questions! I'll limit myself to 2 because I'm posting here far too much! Sorry Katie - the fumes have gone tomy head. So - Does Labdanum 18 have a smell-alike you could compare it to? And - Is Attar so incredible that the price is totally justified?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

Labdanum 18 is like a softer, less-cinnamony Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, and is also reminiscent of a less vanillic Shalimar. I've never smelled Helmet Lang edp, but one of my viewers informs me that it is similar to L18. Tellingly, Maurice Roucel created Labdanum 18, Helmut Lang and Musc Ravageur. Talk about taking the ball and running with it!

Re Amouage Homage Attar - yes, the price is distressingly high, but Attar is transcendently gorgeous! I've never smelled anything so divine!

[bsubassbaby2]

ha smoke-in-your-eyeballs! sounds good to me haha

[Toralya]

:)) Thanks for sharing!

[kissy7fur]

OK, this sounds smouldering! Look out Smoky...I'm on my way to the forest!

Great contrasdt with the green background. A little green to lift the smoky notes...

Thanks for a fab review.

[babystreakz]

great review, i love ur reviews.

1 question though, what would you say is your favourite perfume, or your favourite perfumes???xx

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I've got a short list of faves at the mo:

Chanel Coromandel

Amouage Homage Attar

Le Labo Labdanum 18

Jean Desprez Bal à Versailles

Serge Lutens Chergui

Bulgari Black

[babystreakz]

would you describe them as muskier scents or not??

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

You could describe them as orientals, in that they are ambery, vanillic and woody to greater and lesser degrees. I'm in a "deep & sexy" rut, which is a pretty good rut to be in, as ruts go. Labdanum is the musky one out of the bunch, and Bal à Versailles starts out floral and ends up animal-y. Homage Attar is an incredibly pure rose incense perfume oil. Chergui and Bulgari Black are both powdery sweet leather. And Coromandel is an aristocratic patchouli and vanilla, in Chanel's hi-class style.

[BarrysDaughter]

not heard of any of them, Lord I lead a sheltered life lol :0)

xxxJoolsxxx

[Mirabelle69]

Oh ! You're got Homage as a favorite ?

I wanted so much to smell it that I wrote to Amouage, they sent me a smelling trip : there were no rose anymore, just a strong nasty herbaceous odor with godzilla sillage.

Did you had the luck to smell the actual thing ?

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I hope to do a review of Amouage Homage Attar before too much longer. Smelling it on a blotter strip does it no justice. It does start out herbaceously: a green, mossy oud wood that escorts the rose onto center stage. The green recedes, the rose blooms, and frankincense heightens the drama. Homage Attar is different to the rest of the Amouage line, which is dense with ingredients and sensations. By contrast, Homage Attar is "just" rose incense: simple, pure, divine.

[Mirabelle69]

I was relieve with the fainted blotter they sent me : it stoped my desire.

Now I'm anxious anew : am I missing something great ? :o And a limited edition too ? Arghhh

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I wish you could try some - does anyplace online offer actual samples? I know that new shipments of Homage Attar will be available sometime in April.

[Mirabelle69]

In Cannes (south france, famous for its festival) there's a place, but it's far.

If Amouage made of Homage a "not so limited" perfume, I still have all my chances. And there is the perfume court too.

But I put the discovery of Homage aside, for a moment I'll have money for. The money I spared will be for Lutens, or Habit rouge extrait, or parfums de Nicolaï.

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I do that kind of "perfume math" all the time. And today's equation is: 1 Homage Attar = 2 Lutens + 1 Habit Rouge

[KatiePuckrikSmells]

I should also mention that it wears close, without huge projection. But while it stays close to the skin, it's in no way a "skin scent". Homage Attar is your own portable choir of angels singing in your ear...and dancing in your nose! Ow!

[Mirabelle69]

@KatiePuckrikSmells Oh! I gained a little homage attar on ebay, since last year. And I have to warn you, some batch (like mine) are not good. My vial do not smell of roses, it seems to be icy incense, and in the end sheer spiciness of oud. I did not fall in love yet. I wanted so much this sheer rose story.