Added: 1 year ago
From: kerrycgarrison
Views: 10,797
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  • very interesting thank you.

  • What if I wanted to control the depth of field in the picture. Say I wanted to really blur the background. Wouldn't I have to then manually adjust the strobes?

  • @futuremtt Exactly correct. If you close down the aperture you are physically limiting the amount of light that can enter the camera which you would need to compensate with by adding more light.

  • Yeah. But how do i know that the exposure is spot on without using light meter? How to tell how many stops up or down by reading histogram?

  • @Timefreezers1 You can't be entirely accurate without a light meter but I don't go into a shoot thinking I want an exact ratio, If I dial in my key light I know I need to turn down my fill light by two stops of flash output to get the desired effect.

  • this is really interesting information! Thank you!

  • There is just one thing that confuses me a little is that I heard someone saying that your shutter speed shouldn't be higher than 1/250 as otherwise it would be faster than the flash. The result should be images that are not fully lit.

  • @mariokluser if you have a flash that does not support high speed sync and you are shooting faster than 1/250 of a second you will get black bands on the image. This is because at speeds above 1/250 the second shutter is closing before the first shutter is fully open so the flash goes off and only exposes a portion of the sensor. At speeds of 1/250 or slower, the first shutter is fully open, the flash goes off, than the second shutter starts to close ensuring a proper exposure.

  • @kerrycgarrison

    Thank you very much! I have to to see if my studio strobes suppord high speed sync.

  • @mariokluser usually high speed sync is only available with Canon speedlites.

  • @kerrycgarrison

    I see, thank you very much for this information.

  • @mariokluser if you have a flash that does not support high speed sync and you are shooting faster than 1/250 of a second you will get black bands on the image. This is because at speeds above 1/250 the second shutter is closing before the first shutter is fully open so the flash goes off and only exposes a portion of the sensor. At speeds of 1/250 or slower, the first shutter is fully open, the flash goes off, than the second shutter starts to close ensuring a proper exposure.

  • @mariokluser if you have a flash that does not support high speed sync and you are shooting faster than 1/250 of a second you will get black bands on the image. This is because at speeds above 1/250 the second shutter is closing before the first shutter is fully open so the flash goes off and only exposes a portion of the sensor. At speeds of 1/250 or slower, the first shutter is fully open, the flash goes off, than the second shutter starts to close ensuring a proper exposure

  • Finally I got it.. Thanks Kerry Garrison. Course, the flashes are fast, so changing the shutter speed won't change the light coming from the flash, only ambient. You were so clear. Regards!

  • wow, back up, back up. You can control the light ratio between flashes just by adjusting the aperture which controls the flash output?

  • @rongthienco No, you can control OVERALL flash exposure by adjusting the aperture. If you have your lights set up at a specific power output but you want to decrease the flash output by one stop, then you can close your aperture by one stop. You cannot control the ratio between flashes this way, only the overall flash exposure.

  • I find this technique adequate at f5.6 to around f11, after that you're probably going to see a degradation in quality or above a more obviously shallow DOF which you might not want for a product shot. I shoot all my work myself at blicksbags com check it out. I use old school Vivitar strobes, old Nikon lenses, and a D3100.

  • The downside to this technique is that the flash power settings completely dictate the aperture you use. For many shots you may want to dictate the aperture yourself (for example you are outside and want a deep depth of field) using this 'variable' aperture method could completely ruin your intended photo by necessitating a wide open aperture.

    Another problem is that it could also necessitate a shutter speed over the sync speed to maintain the ambient exposure.

  • HI Amigo

    A Good one, simple, practical and well plain. I will forward this video to some friend

  • Excellent video very helpful many thanks

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