Added: 3 years ago
From: kebrown1980
Views: 55,997
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  • Hi Ken...

    Don't you have semi-flexible copper tubing in the States? You must do.. Wouldn't that be better than bending the tube yourself? Just a thought. Following this vid with interest.

    JW (UK)

  • awesome video - gig 'em

  • Keith. I really like the video. My main concern is how do you clean out the tubing if you solder it all together?

  • Comment removed

  • One very smart cookie. That is an awesome setup ya got goin there. Thank you for sharing this video.

  • Thanks for the reply 70 qt is what I have ,70 gal wow that would be a whole lot of wort what was I thinking. LOL Thanks again and Cheers

  • Good Video I was wondering I have a 70 gal coleman extreme cooler is this to large for a mash tun I'm just getting ready for my first all grain and this is all I'm lacking to have everything ready. Thanks kebrown 1980 Cheers

  • @d123p61

    A 70 gal cooler would be to big for 5 and 10 gallon batches of beer. A 70 qt cooler would work.

  • Is there a parts list from the video available anywhere?

  • Is there a down-side if you do not solder? I assumed it could be slid apart for easy cleaning. I could see accidentally banging it loose with the spoon while stirring, but beyond that, is cleaning an issue?

  • @ZiggyTrek

    I can answer for the builder.

    When tubes are not soldered the tubes can go apart when you mix mash with water. If you make it tight it actually siphons the worth almost to the bottom of the cooler even the worth has to go up.

  • What is the purpose of the "s" bend in the tubing? Wouldn't it be easier to run the tee straight at the side of the cooler and hook the drain fitting to that? Does the s bend help with the drainage/flow or something?

  • I would like to know this too. This video isn't the only place that says to use the S bend either. There must be some reason...

  • very informative, and will save a lot of money.

    but when will you yanks come into the 21st century and go metric?!

  • I use degrees celsius when I brew because it's easier to remember to rest at 50, 60, and 70 degrees than 122, 140, and 158. :) Still like gallons and lbs, though.

  • @likeaIronlioninzion If it isn't broke...why fix it? :)

  • Hmm, I'm having a little trouble with how fast the liquid runs out when I test it. It's just plain water. I know that I bought 3/8" refrigeration tubing which I had to kind of rig onto the 3/8" reducer, but I did a good job. Any thoughts on how to increase the flow?

  • Keith, could you post a material list for your project. It so happens I have that very cooler and would like to attempt this conversion. Thanks.

  • Have you ever considered loose fitting the joints to make it easier to clean when done? or just not soldering any of the joints.

    I like your posts.

  • I made mine with a coleman cooler... a $1.99 mini keg bung... a length of 1/4" siphon tubing I had laying around and instead of a manifold I used stainless steel hose braid. Simple, quick and inexpensive.

  • A+ on using copper tubing instead of PVC for the construction, and excellent point on using lead-free solder... But please NEVER apply brazing flux with your bare finger. Flux is highly corrosive and many studies show it to be very carcinogenic. ALWAYS use a flux brush and/or proper gloves.

  • this guy is awesome, he really knows what he's talking about i want to have a brew with him!

  • You can point the tee the other way but you must insure the bottom of the manifold lays perfectly flat on the bottom of the ice chest.

    By using the smaller diameter tubing I can bend it in a way the maniflod is held down flat on the bottom and can lift up slightly to clean on the bottom side.

    Cheers,

    Keith

  • Is there a reason you bend the tubing back over the manifold instead of just pointing the "T" the other way towards the cooler spigot?

  • Thanks for the pointers. That is good information to know. I rarely solder and value advice from someone with experience. I do brew a lot and enjoy brewing and drinking the brews.

  • Just some pointers on soldering copper pipe (I do a lot of industrial plumbing... and I don't want to flame a novice - I'm just giving pointers) - DON'T over heat... No cherry-read required.. in fact - that is WAY TOO HOT! Heat the FITTING just beyond the joint - the solder will be "drawn into" the heat... Remove heat soon after solder begins to melt - no need to continue heating (TOO HOT causes bad joint). Just my $0.02 (cha-ching!) COOL VIDEO :thumbsup:

  • I have a 5 gallon gatorade water cooler. can I use that?

  • Yes it would work for doing 5 gallon batches.

  • The pipes are copper therefore they do not rust. All you have to do is rinse in warm water.

  • I saw your ring are you a Citadel Grad?

  • I am a 1980 graduate of Texas A&M University.

  • how do you clean the pipes in order to prevent rust?

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