Aftonroe 5.7 - 6 pitch / belaying off the anchor?

[MrGlacierNova]

is mark classen related to paige classen?

[mikebarter387]

@MrGlacierNova No relation It is spelt Klassen

[vkelsov]

Dang Joe, haven't seen a vid from you put up in months... glad to hear your still hitting the crags

[mikebarter387]

@vkelsov been a wild summer. Lisa finished the guides program and I was the toughest diaper wrangler in the Bow Valley

[Ensonik]

Thanks Mike.

[robbieg543]

Would it not be easier to use the atc in 'guide mode' and belay directly off the anchor that way?

[mikebarter387]

@robbieg543 For bringing people up yes. Here we are belaying the leader directly off the anchor. That is a horse of a diffrent color. Works best with the locked down ring bolts.

[robbieg543]

i see... do you find that the Italian hitch twists the rope up?

[mikebarter387]

@robbieg543 In this case it didn't but that was a pretty good rope and well broke in. It would certianly be a concern in some cases. I think I will have to try this several more times. It certianly requires the right kind of anchor. The one at the end of the vid with the solid ring bolt worked real well. The chain anchors that flopped around not so much.

[ivanovivan11]

@robbieg543 I've heard from people that use the muter for belaying that if you use it for belaying of ground (the angle between the belayers and the climbers rope is large) it will kink and twist the rope but if you use it like in mike's video and the angle between strands is near zero the rope wont kink.

So I've heard.

(that would be a nice thing to test)

[slimcrna]

I watch 'em all several times :) keep up the good work!

[slimcrna]

Nice video, but the music makes it hard to hear what you guys are saying.

[mikebarter387]

@slimcrna our way of making you watch it again

[lowowl]

always good videos. keep up the good work mike.