Belay technique

[rocketpony11]

@360VideoGuides You're right, you're not supposed to let go with your brake hand, even if you are doing it hand-over-hand. It's just safer to always have the same hand on the rope.

[ST3V3NWith3sForEs]

Probably okay for tr gym climbing, but honestly if I were on the sharp end I would not want this guy belaying me.

[dyoonu]

Not a belay plate - an ATC.

Wouldn't want him belaying me - he's jerking the climber all over the place !

BOO ! ! !

[WorkedHard2PlayHard]

I use 3 or 4 belay methods (since different gyms demand different techniques to pass their tests). I have used this method before, and it is definitely as efficient as most of other techniques. It is completely safe, since the belayer always has a solid grip on the brake end of the rope (his left hand is certainly strong enough to hold the rope for 1/3 of a second while the rope is in a locked off position). This is one of the better videos showing hand motions for a given belay method.

[wburgboy75]

Why in the hell do people make belaying on a top rope using a non-locking device so goddamned complicated? All this slip, slap, slide, move your hand here, do this here, position this hand here shit isn't necessary. Hold the damn rope in the brake position below the device like you're holding a baseball bat. When the climber steps up, invert both hands, pull slack out, slide the hand closest to the device back down, then follow with the other, immediately back into the brake position.

[sm1thers]

yep this is the most common uk method. people need to stop winging about taking his 'brake hand' off the rope he is clearly braking with the other hand. the grabbing under the hand on the brake end of the rope is all well and good if your other arm is longer :s

[soggieshorts1]

the most important thing i can say is the belayer needs to be competent and as long as the have a hand on the rope to stop your fall i was on a wall in wyoming and the kid that was belaying me was distracted and i fell all the way to the floor thank god i was not hurt he was using a gre gre and held it tight in his hand so it did not arest my fall

[switchbacksidecork]

He gives an adequate belay, and I would let him belay me or someone else, BUT, there is no way in hell you should ever teach someone to belay like this, Bad instruction for beginners or someone who does not know how to belay

[mandolinchad]

Ive been teaching belaying for 15 years and know several techniques. There are several simple techniques that dont involve taking your hand off the break. Sure, this guy seems like he doing enough to keep his climber safe but most instructors would consider this poor technique. There are a few videos on youtube that show a better method. If you are going to be responsible for someone's life, get real life instruction from a professional, there is more to know than these videos show.

[F1X0R121]

@mandolinchad Basically in the UK this is the preferred method of belay by 99% of indoor walls. If you turn up and used a different method they generally get funny about it. I use maybe 3 or 4 different systems. This is my favourite for top roping. Its simple, safe, easy to do and easy to teach.

[metacarpal74]

best you tube video yet on belay



[F1X0R121]

Used this technique myself for maybe a couple hundred hours now. Not one accident.

[cazouu36]

beeeelay device. hes killing me!!!

[Randaalcz]

well there's been said enough about his hands but one thing that you all should be aware of is that if you lock your screw gate biner you shall not tighten it as much as you can. Actually if you tighten it to max you should release it for half a twist because if someone falls a greater distance he can simply block it and you wouldn't be able to unlock it ever again.

[cazouu36]

that guy is going to get someone killed. his hands are the wrong way. that is how to belay with a grigri

[rossdabossda2k6]

finally some one using correct technique!

There are too many so called expert videos, especially expert village videos, which teach poor, often dangerous technique.

[willyolio]

i just want to add some input into this. i've only just begun rock climbing. This is the technique that i was taught when i was vacationing in Australia. The instructor was using a GriGri device.

proponents of BUS say keeping your brake hand on the rope at all times is safer- but just because you're touching doesn't mean you're gripping.  sliding your hand up the rope isn't much faster than switching, and at that moment you're only gripping with your opposite hand anyways.

[willyolio]

there's just a little more i'd like to add.

this technique (i'll call it BOS, Brake-over-switch) allows you to pull the full length of your arm. then you switch grips comfortably, with your other hand over.

doing BUS, however, if you accidentally pull the full length of your arm, you'll be gripping underneath rather awkwardly. when there's too much slack and you need to take it up quickly, BOS can do it in fewer "strokes" and thus you're loosening your brake hand fewer times.

[willyolio]

but with normal climbing speed, BUS would be better. climbers normally aren't running up a wall so you normally don't have to take up rope very quickly, and simply squeezing your hand while you slide it up is a few millisecond quicker than grabbing it while you switch. and in a life-or-death situation, every millisecond counts.

[3rogueS]

Good observation,and keep your mind open.

Wanna distance yourself further from the herd?Go to your local fire dept and see if they have a ropes team,if they do they probably offer a free ropes course.

I started my climbing by learning from an ex air-force pararescue friend,then via my non-civilian commitments,my point?learn every variable you can,it'll only make you better,etc.i won't go into non-civilian application details as it seems most HERE cannot grasp even simple alternate concepts.

[psemond72]

I work for a fire department with a Technical Rescue Team. I am ops level and work on a Ladder company. We do not do one rope operations in rescue situations. Everything is redundant, one mainline rope and a separate independent belay rope using friction devices such as a break bar rack. "New" does not always equal better....

[SamArch77]

Just got into climbing and looking to do belay assessment.  Good clear explanation. Thanks. :o)

[3rogueS]

The more you know, is the more you know. There are so many variables in this broad category(rope work), to limit ones self to a single technique, in this case belaying, is indeed more dangerous. While both techniques in question here are safe, i'd rather have someone who knows too much than too little.

[iluvameriduh]

Are you saying that you wouldn't let this guy belay you,if so,why?

Aside from the obvious,there's little difference in this technique and the "bus" video,but to some its gigantic.Some denounce without trying this technique,because they'd most certainly give us their reasons why to 'not' use this technique.Guess i'm still waiting.

The belayer here always has a hand on the brake,and is showing a perfectly safe belay.

I'd rather someone belay me who knows more than one technique...who wouldn't.

[iluvameriduh]

experienced feedback,not opinions please, thanks.

[threebadfish]

This is not a typical technique taught by any books that I know of.

[iluvameriduh]

ahhh, gotta love them books, nothing like EXPERIENCEing a good book.

[vaPyro]

Well to each their own I guess. I personally would not like to be belayed in this fashion. The break hand should never leave the rope. Should be moved by sliding it up.

[iluvameriduh]

Thank god there's only one way to do everything, yeah sounded stupid to me as well. This is a different method that works, and is practical. Learn it, so as to know another way of 'belaying". There are times when you need to belay in this fashion over the 'gym' way, if you get out of the gym. blah blah blah.

[rockabetsy]

I've climbed outdoors quite often and still would never belay in this fashion, nor would anyone I know. This is not practical or safe.

[greedonever]

@rockabetsy agreed.

[isaac004eos]

HIs technique is definitely flawed...his brake hand should NEVER leave the rope. What he should be doing is using his left hand (non brake hand) to grab the rope on the other side of his brake hand, so his brake hand can slide down the rope without ever leaving it.

[byedor]

I think this video provides an excellent place for climbers to discuss belaying techniques. I'm interested in the insights from experienced climbers.  This video demonstrates a modification of the B.U.S. technique (Brake, Under, Slide). The problem here is that the belayer places his guide hand above his brake hand. And while he does have a hand on the rope at all times, I would suggest sliding would be safer simply because releasing then re-grabbing is a complication that offers no benefit.

[jsollien]

You can argue technic all you want but remember that complacency and an "I know it all" attitude is far more dangerous than something that in all reality is more likely to give the belayer rope burns than actually injure someone.

[psemond72]

He takes his brake hand OFF the rope...everything I've seen so far says this is the biggest NO NO in belaying....

[hecuter]

No, he always keeps one hand on the brake rope at all times, he just shuffles them. Maybe not the most efficient technique, but still more than acceptable.

[psemond72]

I'm sure there are differences of opinion, but at the gym where my daughter climbs and I belay for her, this is incorrect. I've also read several sources that advise against switching hands since there are several belay methods that make switching unnecessary.....

[hecuter]

Switching hands isn't ideal, since in a really fast/stressful/lazy situation, there could be a moment when both hands are off the ropes, but this method is still acceptable because he has contact with the brake rope. Not the best, but perfectly legal in the gym I work at.

[3rogueS]

There should be no disagreement that everyone should learn all they can per climbing techniques,which includes multiple ways to belay.God forbid someone runs into a situation which requires an alternative method,wouldn't it be nice to know more? I think it should be required to pass a couple belay techniques to climb my gym, and if you attend classes and present new skills then you get a discount on your dues, etc.Maybe im alone,but i've always looked forward to new challenges,and/or training.

[psemond72]

I would agree except in cases where one method could compromise safety where another would not.....

[3rogueS]

in which circumstance?

[psemond72]

In mine and many other people's opinion, switching brake hands is the same as taking your brake hand off the rope and is less safe....therefore the technique really has no upside.

[3rogueS]

good luck to ya, and please, learn nothing new

[psemond72]

Refer to my response to your "fire department" post....new does NOT always equal better....

[3rogueS]

I love the daily reminders that i am nothing like "my fellow citizens".

re-read my post, i suggested the person look into rope rescue training. I suggested this so that this person could add this type of training to build his knowledge and/or experience, in another application. I would assume that from your posted qualifications you would have understood what i meant...sorry.

[thetree21220]

this is not the best way to do it. Although it does work just fine if you are belaying for a fast climber you wont be able to keep up with them.

[rebe12354]

if the climber is climbing to fast, you tell them to hold on. Communication is key for rock climbing.

[shri19]

phenomenal, couldnt have shown this better. it was nearly as good as a live instruction. of course with instruction you get to do ands on with someone pointing out mistakes but this is still awesome.

[xXmissveggieXx]

isn't he too close to the device? i always thought ur hands shud be at least an armlength away from the device?

[holybrady3000]

how is that even possible?

[2freet]

That's what I learned, and it is save! There are a lot of other videos of people doing it wrong, with more views.. thats not good, please Response with this video to video showing a wrong technique. thx, t

[accountpro1]

This is the way I belay. Thank you for putting up a video showing more protected belaying hand movement. I use this method of belaying, and it works very well: strong, efficient, and secure. The brake hand is in a palm-down position instead of a palm up; and lowering a climber is done with both hands on the brake end of the rope.

[highlandclimber]

WOOT! SOMEONE WHO IS DOIN IT RIGHT!!!!!

i will say one thing

i have a better harness than he does lol

[IOwnedGod]

That's what I learned too.

[360VideoGuides]

I was always taught to never remove your brake hand from the rope. You grab below your brake hand and slide your brake hand up.

[heathenwalking]

No this is the UIAA approved method of belay.

[popgames]

thats called the pinch and slide.

[Viceroyal]

@360VideoGuides So, sit down and have a cup of tea and tell our mate know how you want him to belay your lil hitlerness so you can feel safe on an ascent. The thing with 'always taught' is that you have someone to blame when you fail at anything, and I am sure you 'blame' often. Slap, clap, twirl, grab, squeel, hit, yawn.... I learned all I know from Obie-Wan-Kinobless and he is mighty. Hi-el self aggrandizement 360ness.

[seanhowell5]

thanks. this video is really helpful 5 star i would say