Added: 3 years ago
From: 92sc2
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  • check torque converter bolts

  • Comment removed

  • definately sounds like a rod, hope it didn't spin the bearing, better get it checked or the whole engine is toast.

  • rods

  • Its actually a 6G72 Mitsubishi - 141 hp....i had 337k on my 1990 Daytona with the same drivetrain..and i redlined it every day for 10 years(dusted 6 clutches in 200k miles)....no smoke and i ran Mobil 1 synthetic.I dont see how the bearings went south like that....it went too long on a oil change or got overheated at one time. 3.0 mitsus are bulletproof if they get routine maintenance.

  • I had one in my 93 daytona it would go

  • ooooo man that sownd terible i have the same van as u and it never made that noize

  • Changing out bearings every 100k can keep an engine running forever.

  • Oh, and the transmission now works, seems like sitting since july drained all of the fluid back into the pan, after some shifting it was operating normally.

  • Update, I forgot to take my camera for the tear down, but my suspicions were confirmed today. After finally dropping the pan, It turns out that the number one rod bearing is gone, rattles like loose change. I'll be taking my camera tomorrow while I finish the repair.

  • @92sc2 Is it really viable to do that? I mean, to replace a rod bearing without just going ahead and rebuilding the entire engine. Sounds like more trouble than doing a full rebuild to me, but I could be wrong. Or to each their own.

    I ask because I've 1. built my own engines a few times, and 2. own one of these 3.0s in a lebaron. It's nowhere near the mileage or condition yours is, but it will be someday.

  • yea thats knock. i am an expert on those dodge 3.0 v6's how many miles? my lebaron has the same motor, and it has 176936 miles, the valves rattle sometimes during cold start, and it definitly doesnt sound like that. those usualy are very reliable engines.

  • About 200000 kilometers

  • the 3.0l is a mitsubishi motor

  • mitsudushie...

  • hmm, from the sound it seems like its on the top end, find out if the 3.0 is a interference fit motor, if so it would be tapping valves (not good, meaning bent valves) , check if it has a timing chain or belt, if belt, it could be caused by the timing belt being off a couple teeth (check timing marks) if the sound is on the bottom end it could be wrist pin, main or rod bearings.

  • It's not an interference engine, so the valves aren't hitting, I'm anticipating rod bearings, I'll be taking off the pan tomorrow or the next day, so I'll know for sure then. I just bought the last of the stuff I need to do the full job, I'll probably post a video on the repair.

  • good, i assume you'll be checking the wrist pins for play right? are you planning on just leaving the heads on and swapping bearings on the bottom end? clevite 77 bearings right?

  • Yeah I just tore apart the bottom end, soaked the bearings in oil, cleaned everything up and put it back together with the torque specs provided by haynes. But it must have worn too much off of the crank and/'or rod away because it ran smooth for about ten minutes then the knock came back after the test drive. I found a lucky guy that was interested in a mint caravan body and sold it.

  • BTW, I'm 92sc2, this is my newer account. I took the car I got my name from off the road last year lol.

  • a lot of work just to soak some bearings in oil.

  • lol no I actually put in brand new bearings, what I meant was that I soaked the bearings in oil before I installed them because I didn't have any assembly lube.

  • That does not sound good does it.... Anyways, hows life J?

  • things are ok flat, how've you been

  • Don't you just love Dodge! LOL!! BTW I have an 05 Ram 1500 4x4... It's good 2 see a new vid from you man!

    Five Stars!!

  • I sure do lol

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