Added: 3 years ago
From: the43k
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  • So you replaced the geothermal hot water tank with a solarthermal hot water tank.

    1. What was the problem with the geothermal hot water tank?

    2. Why did the geothermal hot water tank have to be replaced?

    3. Is the solarthermal hot water tank more efficient than the geothermal hot water tank?

    4. What are the price differences?

    5. Can you post a video answering these questions and explaining so those of us considering installing a system can benefit from the answers?

  • I have a question, please. Our Geo installer has both the 'in' & 'out' pipes from the desuperheater connected directly to the drain valve at the bottom of the hot water tank. This is different than all other installs I've seen. My install doesn't make sense to me, and I'm wondering how there is any interchange of hot & cold water to my tank? Does my setup make sense to you?

  • I've seen this technique used on existing tanks.  I don't think its the best way, but its cheaper and it does work. Personally, if you are going to keep the old tank/hot water producer (IE, Gas, electric, propane, etc) I still think a 2nd storage tank (buffer tank) with no auxiliary heating system is the best way to do it. That way you recapture as many BTU's as you can and you don't stir up the main tank. And when your main tank calls for water, it get preheated desuperheater water

  • @the43k I've just realized that that new pipe @ the drain valve is concentric & therefore offers a true "in" & "out" to the hot water tank. On the other hand, the desuper unit was touted as a 'hot water' producer. I realized later that the water from it is warm only. Using one tank only, its' important to balance the temp between the desuper & the tank. Otherwise, I'm sending hot water from the tank thru the desuper (cooling it).

    Thanks for your reply. I really appreciate it!

  • @noclouds111 The desuperheater typically will only turn on once it has adequate temperatures to do so. In the summer time, when the cooling system is running consistently, you should be able to produce enough BTU's to do almost all of your hot water needs. In the winter, I would think you could produce less than half. Again, this is all dependent on your demands. Now the problem with having one tank, is that the DHW heater may heat the water up prior to the desuper being able to offset it.

  • We've just installed a Geo unit w/desuperheater in CT, and so far, we like it.

    I must agree with you about the 'payback' question given that there are so many variables. Payback was not even in the equation. Formerly, we had a furnace/domestic hot water/radiator sys, and spent approx $1200 yearly for heat & hot water in our 1250 sq ft home.

    It will take quite a while before we can figure the 'apples & oranges' of the comparison, but every time that darn oil truck goes by, I smile!

  • this is very intriguing. I have thought i would like to do geothermal but it seems so out there. Currently we have an outdoor wood furnace with a propane furnace back up, a conventional AC unit that we just replaced last year and an electric on demand water heater. It seems cost prohibitive to do this currently, but if there are areas we could do ourselves, like digging the trench and maybe running lines, though it sounds like it's tricky.

  • I am ready to buy this product untill i saw Al Gore picture............lol

  • fantastic Video. 

  • Good Article, couple of things. PV or Solar panels as you call them are a waste of time, have a zero payback and the embodied energy it takes to produce the panels exceeds the energy it produces in most locations. Depending on your installation and soil conditions you must balance the Geofield. Not sure what the heating degree and cooling degree days are for NJ but if you are heating the building more than cooling it you will eventually freeze the field over the lifespan of the building.

  • My sister and I are building new houses in Ohio. We have already planned on getting geothermal heating and cooling. Thank you for your video, it is very informative.

  • I knew Serbia, as a country sucked, and was a place where if you hated your children you'd raise them. But I didn't know it sucked this much. Amazing video man.  If I could, I'd become an American today and move over there. People here are building brand new houses using 1950's techniques, that's how backwards their brains are.

  • I'm getting ready to build a house and this video has made me decide to do geothermal.

    Thanks!

  • If you live in NJ or east coast PA I can help.

  • Good job.

    I would hire you to do my system if you lived in Ontario, Canada. As far as cost goes, I know it isn't cheap but I am doing it anyway because it is cleaner, better for the planet and much safer. For people with the money to convert they should do it, whether they get the money back or not.

  • Thanks for the post, very informative.

  • great stuff! thanks for documenting your project and sharing with us. while i'm not a bleeding-heart, al-gore-lov'in liberal, i do think that good stewardship of resources is important. please post a follow up on your energy savings. we would love to do geothermal, but just don't have the space living in the city. oh, and by the way, al gore is probably one of the stupidest people i have ever heard in my life...

  • Hey, I noticed you lived in the city. I don't have acres and acres, but do have space between neighbors houses. They have drilling rigs that can do it. Check out DX ( Dirext eXchange) Geothermal systems. It seems to be a newer and more effecient geothermal route, because they use copper tubing, thereby needed less space to drill.

  • FANTASTIC VIDEO! very informative and detailed

  • i'm Building ICF house and interested in GeoThermal

  • Great Work

  • great video!!!  I am building a new house and plan Geothermal Heat Pumps. 5200 sf Also I have moved a old house 1200 sf and plan adding a GHP. I also have a 3000 sf industial building I plan adding a GHP. Property next door had to put in a 250 foot retaining wall next to my property I allowed them to put the footing on my property and I am dropping in a 500' loop next to the retaining wall.

  • Thank you. Please forward to your friends and neighbors.

  • Thanks alot for this informative video. I used to do plumbing, and have installed a gas forced air furnace myself. I have existing ductwork, yet the air outlets are under windows. From what I know, heat outlets should be located closer to the floor, and cooling outlets closer to the ceiling.

    With the nature of this geo. system, does that even matter? Just learning about it, and it seems it cools by taking heat out of the home. I'll check that website, but I live near J.F.K. airport.

  • In a perfect world, having heat distributed via radiant flooring and cooling via duct work at ceiling level would be the best case scenario. However, using your existing system would be more than adequate. As a matter of fact, I have the exact same situation as you do in my 1955 cape cod style home. The system performs magnificently. As for the cooling method. It does take the heat from the home and exchanges it with the ground. It works just like your refrigerator does with air exchange.

  • Thanks, I too have a cape cod, but built 1964. Good to know it works magnificently, even with ductwork closer to the floor. I see new legislation allows for 30% of the installation to be deducted on taxes. I've scheduled for Water Furnace to give me an estimate.

    How has the cooling worked when the temp outside reached 95-100?

    I've seen some have a back up sytem to supply added heat. Does this mean that this system isn't good for people who like 75+ interior heating?

  • First of all, the system is far more efficient during cooling than heating. So assuming your home doesn't have some catastrophic insulating issue, it will have no problem cooling at 95-100. Actually, that is why your paying the extra money for geothermal. Your heat exchange medium is the ground, not the air (like a standard a/c condensing unit). So your not fighting the 100 degree temps as much as a conventional system would. As far as auxiliary heating.....

  • Aux heating is installed in locations where the temperatures can get colder then the systems "sweet spot" configuration. What I mean by sweet spot is that any geo system should be sized properly, so that its not under or over sized. For example you could spend 1000's of dollars more and put more pipe in the ground to compensate for colder temperatures, however its more cost effective to pay a little extra for aux heat 1% of the time then to overspend on a loop and not need it 99%............

  • I'd spend the extra money on improving your homes air leakage and insulation rather then over sizing it. Check out my new youtube video called "Weatherization of a home in NJ"

  • I checked out the Weatherization video, and your website. This is something I need to do. Thanks for your answers. Where did you get that tool that measures KwHs of appliances? Also, do you know how to figure out how many tons capacity system one needs by sq footage alone?

  • I was looking into the DX Geothermal systems. What are your thoughts on that?

  • thanks for the videos

  • Thank you.... Please visit my site and tell your friends.

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