Icynene

[roweaz]

d1incharge is is just plain wrong on most of his drivel. Let's start by saying that done right, most insulation can be very effective. Let's spell some of this out for him so even he can understand. First the equation for heat loss. Loss=(temp diff x area x time)/R-value. Simply running some numbers shows that by R-16 you have slowed loss by almost 94%. Adding another r-16 will save you an additional 3%.

[d1incharge]

Sure, if conductive heat were they only type of transfer you would have a point.Show me your license number?I can tell you don't have one. You can't cut off "air infiltration" unless you want to fail the required .35 ACH by ASHREA? Or install mechanical ventilation in a tight home and just don't mention that 10 years down the road when it fails, the occupants won't know and it could harm them to live in the home. Your a genious, just cut off fresh air to save money!Our homes have natural .35ACH.

[roweaz]

Using just about any load calculation software, you will find a typical house's heating/cooling load with R-19 in the wall and R-49 in the attic and .5 air changes per hour loses between 35 to 50 percent of its heating/cooling energy through infiltration. Now, would you rather double your insulation to try and save 3% or seal up your building and save 35-50%? Since d1incharge seems to love fiberglass so much, let me point out it's weaknesses.

[roweaz]

Fiberglass insulates by obstructing air flow through its glass fiber arrangement. The more air that passes through it, the more energy you lose, the less effective it's r-value. The greater the difference in inside/outside temp the greater the convective air current produced. Greater convective current means more air passing through your fiberglass.  The faster the air passes through the less your effective R-value.

[d1incharge]

@roweaz Please go to some more foam classes where they teach you BS about "eddie currents". We have two thermal cameras that will take pictures of the superior performance of R-60 vs. typical R-19 foam. B.I.B.S vs open cell. I can send them to you and solve your ignorance real fast if you want? When you can build and test, there is no more BS, and NO we will NEVER put our occupant at the risks of mechanical fresh air, we have done IAQ tests on our few "supertight" homes they can't be trusted.

[roweaz]

That is why people going from R-30 to R-60 fiberglass in their attics claim they can tell the difference. The difference in effective R-value savings between the two is 1.5% (true r-30 slows heat transfer by 96.66%, R-60 slows it to 98.33%). On a day with a 50 degree temp difference, that is 83 btus per 100 square feet per hour, or 1000 btus for a 1200 sq ft ceiling, or 1/24th of one ton of heating or cooling.

[roweaz]

Would you notice the difference if your beloved fiberglass was actually performing at R-30 or R-60? Think about it. Second, even if you completely seal the outside of a wall cavity and then completely seal the inside, you will still have convective "eddie" currents within a single cavity containing fiberglass causing it to lose some of it's R value.

[roweaz]

Yes, foam costs more, and if you live in a temperate climate, you may not realize large energy savings. If you live in the 110 degree desert, or the freezing north, you will likely see substantial savings not from out of the box R-value, but from the actual effective r-value. Foam will seal your house from infiltration. Foam does not allow air convection, thus it's R-value stays virtually the same at 0 degrees all the way to 100+ degrees.

[roweaz]

The R-value of fiberglass is at 70 degrees with no air pressure. (because the wind never blows does it). Just a couple other corrections for him...adding cubic footage of "conditioned space" does not necessarily equal much more surface area (vaulted ceilings). Adding conditioned space does NOT increase heating or cooling loads after the air inside your house is brought to temperature..

[roweaz]

Heat is not lost/gained out of thin air, surface area and leakage determine loss, not volume. (study up would ya) Second, a wall that is only 50% insulation must have some serious windows and doors, as well as the biggest waste of framing lumber ever. After windows and doors, tradional framing makes up about 10% of a wall. Only in d1incharges house did the framers put 21 studs together leaving him nowhere to put his r-100000000000 fiberglass insulation

[roweaz]

As far as foam conducting (not convecting) the cold, why do so many builders now use 1 inch R-5 foam on the outside of a house under the siding? Oh yeah, it's to provide a thermal break for conducting (as well as adding R-value). Funny how it work there. Come to think of it, I can't seem to find a high efficiency hot tub, refrigerator or anything insulated with fiberglass.

[roweaz]

They always choose foam. Must be because they are morons eh? You sir, are a complete fraud, a know nothing, and clearly nothing more than a foam hater. Any insulation done poorly will perform poorly. Yes, foam costs more, but when installed with equal skill, simply will outperform the others. It has to, it's physics. Whether it will pay off for you is another matter at least as long as this one.

[WowMike2002]

chill from outside directly storing it inside the wall.. and that in contrast forces you to pump the heat up higehr then normal.. I woudl recommend jsut standard insulation.. its the same price, if not cheaper - and works just as well. Plus, if you ever have to repair anything behind the walls.. you wont have as hard a time with jsut pulling some batting out of the way, as opposed to having to carve your way through this stuff.

[WowMike2002]

The one thing I would like to see.. while d1incharge does have some good points to what he is saying - There IS a reason traditional insulation has that extra air in between the insulation - having a solid foam insulation like that will actually conduct the air form outside to inside quite a bit faster then normal housing insulation. If you have ever been in a house with this spray in foam during a cool day.. if you put your hand to the wall it actually feels cool.. its carrying the ...

[MASEK360]

1:57 looks like arnold schwarzenegger

[cpsqueen87]

d1incharge is a debbie downer. he must have nothing else to do but make negative comments! seriously have you seen all his negative comments?

[d1incharge]

I just ran some numbers on my REM software, with a 12 or greater SEER, foam wont even save you 50% compared to an UNINSULATED HOUSE...using 2000sqft, in a central Tx, climate. w/avg windows, and a 90afue heater.....35ach. download REMdesign, free 60day trial, and wake up......dont forget if you foam in the attic(retarded) you have to add that area to the "conditioned space", and now the roof is your envelope. (more conditioned air, more surface on envelope, less R-value) sold as superior???

[d1incharge]

I am sorry you need a quiter house,......you do realize that a wall is only 50-60% insulation? And I guess the fifty different realtors I have dealt with while selling those 900homes were lying when they said nobody ever brings up wall insulation on resale and it makes ZERO difference, only idiots conned into buying it thinks it makes their house worth more. LOL. Trust me, with a 21SEER unit, R-60 loosefill. Foam wont touch it. Get a clue.....hvac=42$/month avg. 3200sqft...

[kjsmoove82]

well d1incharge you insulate how u want and i will have a more comfortable and quieter house,electric bills will be lower and have a higher resale value than any house you care to build facts and satisfied customers dont lie

[d1incharge]

I am sure all five of your customers were satisfied....they dont realize they are paying 28$/month extra on their loan because some builder actually thought it would improve energy bills...our local utility gives rebates out for energy upgrades, but not foam, I asked why and 5 different hvac guys started telling war stories about how worthless it was, the energy co. said, IT HAS NO PAYBACK, THE ROI NUMBERS FOR FOAM ARE NOT THERE!!! 9th biggest muni energy co. in USA, but you know better.....

[kjsmoove82]

d1incharge is a complete moron, spray foam insulated houses consistently cost 50% less to heat and cool than traditionally insulated houses get your facts straight idiot

[d1incharge]

@kjsmoove82 Pull your head out of your ass jackass. I think 30 some years of building over 900 homes, inspecting, energy auditing, and OWNING, I think I would fcking know. 50% less moron? Really? that means even with that stupid ass bloated number, I would save monthly just a bit less than the mortgage interest on the extra cost of foam.....If I would have borrowed..by the way.....my neighbor w/foam and the highest bills in the hood had coffee w/me this morning and bitched about heating bills!

[Doitonhigh]

I like hearing this stuff. everything you said makes sence. what would you do for an old house with plaster walls with no curent insolation. I was concidering blowing in celyilose insalation, drilling holes from the outside. your thoughts?

[iseecheese]

but what is it made of?

[d1incharge]

mostly petroleum.

[d1incharge]

Foam is for MORONS.

[Doitonhigh]

can you explain why you think fome is for morons? what can you say bad about fome vs. other types of insulation? what is your choice and why?

[d1incharge]

it has no greater R-value/ inch than fiberglass, or cellulose, its two biggest competitors, yet it is anywhere from 4-10 times the cost. When you foam the roof deck, you can increase the size of your conditioned space by 60% and increase the surface area of your envelope, meaning for 4-10 times the cost, you wind up having to use MORE energy. It is one of the biggest rip off products, next to house wrap,, plastic decking, vinyl siding, which SUPRISE, all petro products.

[d1incharge]

one more thing while I am at it.......look at all of these foam videos on youtube and tell me how thick these guys are putting on the roof decking. Avg is about 5-6", now look up the R-value of open cell (about R-3.8/inch), Yup that means even though the DOE and many others recommend R-49 to R-60 for most of the country, these foam crooks are installing R-19ish!!! Best part is, these dirtbags put videos all over you-tube as if energy auditors, builders, or insulators wont call them out!!!

[camshaftcarb]

@d1incharge Wowsers, you've really opened up a huge conspiracy. Not only has the oil/petro industry brainwashed us all, but they've managed to sneak into every state and municipality in the USA and Canada and bribed them all into making housewrap mandatory minimum code requirement for all new construction. Damn, I see it now. There is no wind barrier in housewrap, is there. Its just lining the pockets of the oil companies. DAMN THEM!!

[d1incharge]

Does wind blow through 7/16 OSB? Better put a wind breaker over it! I lived in a 130 year old house in near perfect condition, better require housewrap huh, because if municipalities require it, it must be right. LOL You know who works for municipalities? People too stupid to cut it in private industry where the money is. I have seen it, and you can look it up, overall housewrap does more harm than good.

[d1incharge]

My choice is always most R-value for the money, which is usually fiberglass(by far the #1 insulation on the planet). Reasons? It does the best job for the money, foam salesman will tell you houses are too leaky but how would they know?Most new homes are too tight w/out foam. When you use foam, you are required to bring in fresh air, usually using energy to do it! So, foam houses require more energy to heat and cool, and use energy to bring in fresh air, all the while costing 4-10 times more!