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From: undercurrentspaulo
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  • I cut my self  haha

  • never point towards your thumb, always point towards your chum:)

  • Why do these bushcraft vids always have folk music? I'm a bushcraft enthusiast, but I prefer metal. My vids would look like Dethklok went camping.

  • I would say you need a heavy long knife. Maybe 10" is enough? As long as it has some heft for chopping. It will also make-do for smaller tasks. Saves carrying two. That would make sense to me. Although, if I caught you with such a knife in your possession, you would have to prove to me it was a tool, or might want to arrest you! :)

    Good luck. and Thanks.

  • Also at first the methods seem unorthodox to me. However they are pretty safe

  • a choice between that and a Rambo knife. I'd take both.

  • What's the knife you got there mate?

  • The knife looks almost identical to a Kellam Puukko and I think the lettering on the seath says puukko (its also a kellam style seath)

  • the song made me laugh

    I cut my self... a slice of time.

  • hey andrew,

    is your knife similar to the kellam puukko kpr4 knife?

  • hahah the buck and anza knife company main shops are not far from me. 25 bucks for a brand new hand made anza. not bad

  • @Godismyking2 thats very true, my original post was just having a go at the generally annoying close minded opinions of the uk bushcraft community towards large knives, like what we see in this video, his little remark about "rambo knives", whatever works and gives you a kick from using i say

  • @Godismyking2 indeed, his knife is fine and all, probably best for the uk actually where anything bigger than a 4 inch blade may aswell be an AK47 by the amount of hysteria it causes, but personally if i was off out for some serious wilderness camping i'd be bringing along something like an rtak 2, a 3 inch or so folder and probably a swiss army knife too, big knife for wood & fire prep, small knife for those random fiddly things and food prep, and the swiss army knife for the scissors/tweezers

  • I think the main advantage of the "rambo" knife is that you can dig a bit with it

  • Great tips, and excellent camera work!  Thanks!

  • Beautiful Helle Knife

  • i think in the uk we have an unspoken snobbery against large knives as "too american" or "unsubtle" and "all show", to the detriment of pragmatism and fun, yes i said fun, because it is fun chopping stuff up with a big knife be honest with yourselves, bigger knives can substitute for an axe in many things and are most deffo not useless when it comes to carving, batoning wood aswell, lets see you split a log with that little knife, i think we in the uk are knife calvinists simple as.

  • Finger guards are for people that don't know how to use knives !!!

  • @daninator10 and only people who dont often use knives will deny the usefullness of a finger guard in some situations...

  • 0:44 . You state that a large knife with a hollow handle is useless ? Its way easier to baton with a large knife to cut large sticks. With a hollow handle you can fashion a spear with the knife and a stick. Do you think a large spear would be useless in a survival situation ? What a dumb thing to say !!!!

  • @daninator10 It is weaker due to having either a short or no tang. You could fashion a spear with a standard knife and some string.

  • looks like a knife. Granted I don't know what kind of knife as I'm not a knife expert...

  • Knife should have a finger guard and a sheath what can be closed by a button to prevent loss or not ? Like the german Puma Nicker for example. This is in use by european hunters for decades. The knife in the video looks like a scandinavian - martiini ? They have single edges.

  • @Panzlaff The knife in the video is a Scandinavian Puuko made by Kellam. You can see it at the Kellam website. I can tell you because I have one just like it. The knife has a small guard, that is more like a finger groove, just enough to keep your hand from moving. The sheath is very secure. Because it is round, like the handle of the knife it "sucks" it making it impossible to fall by itself.

  • That carving method makes sense

  • He says to keep the knife still but after showing how not to do it he continues to both pull the wood and push the knife with the flick at the end... Do as i say, not as I do!

  • the thing is about a single bevel knife is that they're hard as poop to find...

    I've looked and looked, and they're all double-beveled blades.

    You basically have to get a craftsman to make you one that you'll pay a good price for (which isn't always a bad thing)

  • @CmGHaures try ragweedforge, bensbackwoods, etc. or search "mora" or "puukko". IMHO he does oversimplify the pros and cons of the scandi grind and blade geometry in general.

    One drawback is for a knife to work with a scandi grind the blade has to be relatively thin, a convex edge, like on a bark river, is also a popular bushcraft grind and allows a much thicker blade. There are pros and cons to every design, what most people don't realize is that all knives are a compromise.

  • you should get the condor bushbuddy!

  • what kind of wood is that.... i might beable to make those into arrow shafts :)

  • You call that a knife? i call it a dildo and my double bevel usa sabre knife is wayyy alot better than that dildo of yours

  • Does anyone know which exact knife this is?

  • @hamsteryte

    i think it's a "puuko", a finnish hobby knife.

  • @hamsteryte looks like he's built the handle himself. it's a good thing to do and not very dificult. find a knife with a good blade and you can make a handle out of whatever you like.

  • @hamsteryte

    i think its a karesuando

  • @hamsteryte Hard to tell. Could be a Karesuando, but I'm pretty sure it's a Kellam Wolverine. Both are good knives I've heard, but I've never used a Karesuando. My Kellam is a great knife though.

  • i really like this video, you show the proper way to use a knife while making a point at how you don't need a big foot and a half Rambo knife for survival. where did you find that knife? i really like it! if i cannot find one i will make one out of an old file but if they do sell them could you point me in the direction of where i can get one? thanks! -Levi

  • tennis elbow ... my ass! been in close relationship with woods since 1994 and never had any problems.

  • Hi, Thanks for a great clip. Another element of the knife that tends to be overlooked is the bolster which can be decorative but is on the knife to provide a surface for the shoulders of the blade to bear on and prevent compression of the softer handle material. This contributes significantly to the rigidity and overall strength of the knife. Take it away and the handle or tang of the knife would be more prone to failure.  Knives with out a bolster are intended for light duty use.

  • ofcourse a big rambo knife with a sawback blade ande a hollow handle can always be handy

  • @justmarinus if you have one of those enormous Buckmaster knives the prongs on the guard you could create a functional anchor for a boat, now that would be handy.

  • @justmarinus

    That's sarcasm, right?

  • That's a scandi grind.

  • Where did you get that knife? I like it a lot i'd want to buy one like that. (I like to collect knifes)

  • @IamKyleTheGuitarist Its a kellam wolverine, or tracker. Look it up.

  • very nice knife, it cuts wood like peeling potatoes. :D i want one

  • I think he got his tennis elbow that way soundbeans :)

  • i thought you were not supposed to bend your Right elbow ???? lol .

  • Case?

  • Nothing beats a good Puukko

  • handsome blade use it in good health

  • looks like my mate joshs kellam wolverene... identicle almost

  • name of song?????????

  • but he dóes move his arm!

  • As a man who has been a woodsman for about 25yrs.,having a belt knife long enough for light

    chopping is the best.Couple that with a stockman pocketknife is perfect .Always carry a small sharpner also .

  • that is a good combination, but i prefere to carry a bushcraft knife like the woodlore, a saw and an axe

  • @mwillblade i have only been doing this for a bit over 3 years, but in my experience, you can do everything you can do with a large knife, but better, with a pocket knife and medium sized axe

  • i dont agree that it needs to be a full tang yes its strong but my 711 has been through hell and it has shown no damage

  • aha ok thank you i got it !!

    but can you guys help me how can i send messages to any commenter ??

  • thats a good knife !!

    but i like the ray mears one

  • @milotist

    i have both mate, the RM is odviously stronger and more solid, but the Kellam as andrew has their is a much better slicer and performer whilst being fairly solid aswell :)

  • im thinking of making one...

  • Yes, you're right that is a Kellam Puukko.

    I own a Ahti Vaara, is almost the same knife as Kellam Woloverine.

    Ahti is much cheaper, so I bought a Ahti-

  • andrew is using a Kellam Puukko, i had a look at it when i met him at the gathering. i liked it so much i bought a wolverine

  • For shure that's a Kellam Wolverine

    Ahti Vaara is the same knife made by the same maker,but with other name.

  • Certainly knife choice is a personal preference, one should always think of the worst case scenarios. First, you lose it, so a knife with a lanyard in the handle to wrap around your wrist is nice to have. Second, you break it. If you have a blade thats only 4 inches and you break it, your left with nothing but a nub. A bit longer is better. Finally, ALWAYS have a guard on it! Your hand slips and u get cut, your bumming! Especially out in the bush! Best advice, carry more than one knife!

  • anyone have used a Kbar??? was wondering if luging around a large knife such as that would be suplimental in removing say a machetti . Was looking for a knife that pritty much was useful enough to cut finely like this video showed and also to build a shelter made with mortise and tennon style conections. I prefer that style than rather to tie together . Thanks

  • @deathmarch5 if youre hellbent on a kabar just by a small one...

  • where do you find a knife like that ?

  • johnll1000 - it's a typical "mora" knife - a classic design common in the Scandinavian regions for about 400 years. It's a classic shape that is proven for bushcraft for centuries (unlike the god awful crap marketed by American knife makers - like supposed 'tanto' blades).

    Common makers are Mora, Frost, KJ Eriksson, Fallkniven (upscale), etc. Cheap, practical plastic handled mora knives cost about $15 (CAN or USA).

    It's all my survival mentor, Mors Kochanski, and I ever recommend for students.

  • in this case, this looks like the Kellam Wolverine

  • I recommend looking at ragweedforge(dot)com in the Helle section, they have an awesome selection of some of the best knifes you could find. I bought a cheaper one, and have been carving with it for a year now, no sharpening, and it still shaves my arm! They really are a much better knife than any others Ive ever had. (Helles are very similar to his)

  • good vid man

  • Andy nice one their are some loonies on here but you bring it all back to ground leavel thanks mate

  • I used to have a knife exactly the same. I prefer now a more modern design with a synthetic handle and sheath.

  • so basically i guess you think seatbelts and helmets are for sissys as are safety glasses???? sorry, i feel safety is paramount in all things and a guard is a safety device for any stabbing type knife as is a wrist wrap thong...saying that you can stab by using a special grip is a cop out...if you never stab at ice or any other medium then fine, a guard may not be needed but to say otherwise is just false bravado.

  • i was saying that someone experienced with knives, for general bushcraft does not need a guard, of course there a re some exceptions but in general they are a hinderance

  • Comment removed

  • A guard keeps you safe if you slip...

    Not slipping keeps you safer.

    Having no guard makes the knife easier to use, making it less for you to slip. Remember there is more control in close to the handle - try to widdle wood with the TIP of a knife... hard, isn't it?

    A sharp knife is a safe knife - because it does what it is told - it cuts. Dull or awkward knives or knives in terribly inexperienced hands are the ones that slip and cause damage. Use your head and you'll stay cut free :-)

  • he says to keep the arm holding the knife stiff. but he ends up moving that arm more than the one holding the knife... what the fuck?

  • This knife has no fingerguard, recommending a design like that is inviting injuries. A lanyard hole is missing as well, with a cord attached you could a) make up for the absence of a fingerguard somewhat, by having a small cord loop around your ring finger & pinky while gripping the handle to avoid slipping toward the blade b) in some situations drop and lose your knife without use of a lanyard. Then, fingerguard and lanyard are helpful when attaching the knife to a stick (for a rigged spear).

  • axes are very heavy and are not needed for every enviornment. and a 6 inch knife with a hand saw is far beter combonation the a 4 inch blade and an axe. a 6 inch blade can do everything his knife can and then some.

  • I have to completely disagree with your opinion of finger guards. The lack of a finger guard is in no way a safety issue for someone who knows how to use a knife properly. I have been using guard-less knives all my life in the form of Scandi style blades like shown in the video, and slipjoint pocket knives. I regularly clean and fillet fish, clean game, carve figure 4 traps, spoons, tent pegs, marshmallow sticks, etc. And I have never cut myself do to the lack of a guard.

  • P.S. last comment was in regard to

    chevkoch's comment.

  • stingray, I agree that a 100% focus will help you avoid injuries. There can be situations when your control might not be as reliable. Also, when wearing gloves it's reassuring to find your hand resting against a fingerguard when grabbing the handle and knowing for sure you're secure in your grip without having to feel for the right position on the knife (your sense of touch being lessened by the glove).

  • What I'm saying is that in my opinion a knife with a fingerguard is naturally always safer than one without, as it prevents slipping forward towards the blade in case it'd happen.

  • @chevkoch is funny i been working with knives for about 11 years now and alot of my knives dont have a finger guard, and ive never slipped like that, ivealways cut myself with the tip or 2 inches from the tip, its actually safer to have one with out a finger guard because the way you carve small and your thumb is below the work always with a finger guard and choil its hard to do that

  • @chevkoch Sure, fingerguard is a must if you're goal is to stab someone.....

  • While I see your point stingray4540 with your listed limited uses I think you will agree a guard is good to have on a hard use knife...if you have ever tried to stab your way through ice to be able to fish or to get at water for drinking and cooking a guard is a must...almost got hurt bad using a cold steel master tanto with no guard as the knife stopped and my wet hand kept going and slid down the blade...no more guardless knives for me...of course I use mine harder than most other people do.

  • I will also never use a folder without steel liners for safety reasons as well...I had a spiderco endura bust on me and almost hurt me while stabbing through an water trough that had iced over.

  • hello, i was talking about guards

  • rambo FTW

  • Funny...my United Cutlery "First Blood" replica has given me 18 trusty years of service. From chopping, prying, general cutting, carving, etc... the thing has held up flawlessly. Even with the hollow handle/partial tang the knife is still solid as a rock. $89 well spent. It's always funny to see people insulting this knife and it's practicality.

  • If u don´t want to give money away, don´t buy a finished knife. Buy the blade instead and make the rest out of raw materials, it´s really easy and makes the knife way more personal. A good blade costs about 10-15% of the finished product

  • those are handmade knives are they

  • I find that larger knives 7inches and up, are much better than any axe, because its safer, and has more uses and can accomplish a better task.

  • In the beginning you said, that a 4 inch blade is better than 9 inch blade. That is in my perspective wrong.

    A 4 inch blade, could NOT be used to splitting wood? It couldn't be used for hacking branches, or chopping down trees.

    If you were to go for a heavy bowie style blade say by Ka-Bar, you would have the capabilities to chop down a tree, and to split wood with a baton. Even a 7inch blade is better than a 4 inch blade! And, the larger your blade (10.5-12?) the more you can do with it.

  • 6-7 inch blade is the perfect blade length.you can still do fine jobs like cuting and easily split wood with a 6-7 inch blade.

  • I must say I disagree. Big knives capable of chopping have a much wider blade angle and are therefore much worse at cutting wood like this. One would do much better with a small axe and a knife like seen in this video. Big knife is just a compomise to replace (poorly) two items with one imho. I talk in the point of bushcraft, combat knifes are of course another thing.

  • i dont know were this whole thing the to be a good buch crafter your knives needs 2 be small. a 6 inch knife like a buck 119 speacial is ideal for the woods. its blade is only 2 inches longer therefore its just as capable as a 4 inch blade. as well as being able to chop and batton and such.

  • nice video ,

    it looks a lot like my kelam wolverine, not 100% certain because they all vary a bit , but pretty sure

  • Nah that's a kellam puukko, I have a wolverine too, it dips into the handle twice with a swell in the middle but the one he's using only does once near the blade, plus I'm pretty sure it says puukko on the sheath.

  • is that a mora, pukko or some brisletto knife?

  • that's more of a pukko

  • You can get tennis elbow from wanking too.

  • no no no, thats repetitive stress syndrome silly :D

  • @soundbeans

    or brick laying .. no joke !!!

  • @88Thyra actually you can't get it from wanking, and I don't think "tennis elbow" and what you can get from carving wood are the same thing. Tennis elbow is from vibrations. The tendon damage when carving occurs because you repeatedly pull very hard on your tendon and then try to stop it really quickly. The heavier the knife the more mass you have to stop and the worse it is on your tendons.

  • @soundbeans uh oh... i might be in danger...

  • @soundbeans Isn't that known as Wanker's Cramp?

  • Great points. One of the first fixed blade knives I ever bought was an old Finnish knife. I bought it because I liked the way the tips are shabed almost like a tanto.

  • i think theres alot to be said about personal preference and quality when it comes to choosing a knife. if i had to choose one knife size for a survival situation i would choose a mid size knife. maybe 8-10 inches or so. when possible its good to have a hatchet or aze for larger jobs

  • we're talking about bushcraft here, not survival. Not everybody thinks he is rambo.

  • i think you guys are forgetting that he carys a GB axe so that does the job of the 8-10 inch knife and more

  • well, a good survival knife should be fairly hefty. Bushcraft is more for just making stuff in the woods, but a big knife is better in a survival situation. Chopping, batoning, etc.

  • You may disagree with me, but I'm almost 100 percent certain his knive is a Kellam Wolverine

  • it is, i was just researching that!

  • Are they any good?

  • I have the cheaper puukko model, which is nearly the same except for the fact that the wolverine has a better tempered blade. I love the knife dearly. It may  be a bit pricey for some, I paid $75 for mine at the time, but it is amazing. I don't have much experience with knives though so shop around. But I love the finnish style knives and look and they function as well as they look so it works for me!

  • cool i will look into something like this, yeah i like the style of it too

    Thanks

  • yeah no problem. another thing I liked about the knife was the nice wooden handle, made of curly birch. There are cheaper knives that are probably just as good, but I figured since this knife was going to be with me at all times, it should please me in all aspects, including aesthetics.

  • not good,,,,,,

  • Comment removed

  • that's not how reflexes work.

  • yeah you're wrong

  • this knife resembles my helle, a wounderfull norwegian made bushcraft knife, its a steel sandwhich, carbon steel core and stainless steel sides, scandinavian bevel like his

    helle knives take a look good prices

  • while the helle range do look nice, and come in lovely tubes, i personally wouldnt reccommend them - my freind recently purchased a helle eggen, which came highly reccommended by somebody in a forum. On the first trip we made with it, while using it to split a small branch for the purposes of grilling a fish the TANG snapped clean through under pressure - how we avoided injury is beyond me! I have several different knives by a company called Stromeng, in Norway, and have found them very reliable

  • what kind of knife is it?

  • It's a Finnish type of knife called "puukko".

  • My knife is very similar to yours, made in portugal. my handle broke because of age but I made a new one out of metal. The tang also broke but not unfixable.

  • no because the arm is being pulled into the body not forced away from the body jolting ur elbo

  • wont u get tenise elbo with the hand with the stick to

  • Oops thought I'd mention that the things I mentioned are problems with the wolverine. The puukko has a harder spine so it should work with a fire steel but I don't know if there's a gap on it as well or not as I don't own it.

  • That's a nice knife (it's a kellam puukko to those that don't know), I have the kellam wolverine and it's razor sharp. Only 2 problems with it. The spine isn't hard enough to strike a fire steel and there's a tiny gap between the bolster and the blade that allows dirt and water to leak in but that's easily solved with some epoxy. I guess there could be 3 if you count the stick tang but unless your doing alot of chopping or prying with it, it should hold up.

  • if you have a good sharpening system (not necessarily an expensive contraption, just someway that you are comfortable with and can sharpen well), you can change the edge of your blade from a double bevel to a single bevel. I buy knives based on materials, company name, reference, research, and personal use, and don't worry about the edge because I put my own single bevel on it anyways.

  • horrible, britney spears' 'womanizer' 45000000 views and this only 50000, where are people's heads at? great tutorial btw, ill be watching the others aswell.

  • can any1 tell me wat size knife i should get cuz i hearsome ppl say a big knife and some ppl say a small knife?and tell me how many inchs the blade should be. i havea machety and an ax so shuld i get a small knife and just bring those and a small knife or wat? plz comment me and let me know thanks!

    ps culd any 1 tell me a good website or store 4 bush craft gear?

  • he said at the beginning: 4inch's is what you want. but you get more wieght with you 7 or 8 inch blades that make bayoneting logs easier and hacking linbs faster. So first a small knife and if you have more time to prepare bring a larger one

  • hey good video but i was wundering were i could get a good bushcraft knife.iv ben having trouble finding single bevil knife that was made of carbon steel culd u give me a good website or store?thanks.

  • lol not allot people have all of those. ASpecially the patience part.

  • also the problem is its never as good... even a mora blade is alot better than what most beginners make. i tried my hand at it and its not as good as a mora clipper. also every knife you need some o1 tool steel which is fairly difficult to come across in the uk.

  • buy a frosts mora both carbon steel and single bevel

  • try ragweedforge(dot)com

  • This is excellent instruction. Many thanks!

  • got damascus steel stilleto 512 layers. 9inch long,expensive but all you need. Saves carrying a machete,camp axe or a cooking knife, saves lbs'in wait. Bit awkward at first, but if it's what you got you get used to it quick. Oh yeah...it's also an absolute joy to look at.

  • is it just me or did u keep carving the tip on your tent stake the way u just told us not to?

  • 5:10 when he uses his knee to rest his knife and craft the stick please be carefull not to damage the cartilidge of your knee this is very painfull and could possibly end your bushcraft adventures before you started,thanks

  • some good info here. can i just ask, i have some old penknives with what i think is 2 beveled (not sure how to spell it) edge. would you be able to sharpen it in a way that "makes" it a single bevel? thanks

  • if its thick enough you can regrind them ,, but dont even bother with stainless , you want carbon steel , holds a better edge .

  • thanks! yeh, i have heard that a lot. the knife im looking in buying is carbon steel so im happy =]

  • Stainless Holds the edge for longer than High carbon but the edge is harder to obtain on the stainless, perhaps try laminated steel for a happy medium?

  • omg, this guy is coppieng an episode of ray mears bushcraft

  • can i just say i watch ray mears and how is he coopying its bushcraft u fag u cant copy

  • Yes you can!

  • i love bush craft it fits into my outdoors profile. i love camping , hiking , fishing , survival , biking and so om. thanks going to get some suplies thank you.

  • Whoa.... that looks eerily like a Mora with a custom handle... (mora/erikson)

  • The knife is a Kellam Puukko.

  • Yup, sure is. That's the Puukko model with the 3 3/4" carbon steel blade with curly birch handle. I have the exact same knife, and another good knife is the Helle Trofe.

  • Thanks a lot for the info! It's a beautiful knife.