Hey thanks for responding to my prior questions... I find sometimes I just need a touch up so I strop and I'm back to hair popping edge. Is that ok? Or should I sharpen? Not sure what the diff is.
@1dducks - hey, the less you sharpen with hard stones, the longer your blade lasts, so stropping til the sharpness no longer meets your satisfaction is always the first option.
@1dducks depends alot on the heat-treat (thus the manufacturer), but for your list generally: hardest to sharpen is D2, then s30v, 154cm, 440c, VG10, then AUS8 are the softest.
Tell me if I got this correct. The lower the angle the sharper the knife, but you will have to sharpen more often, and the higher the angle the more dull the blade, but you will NOT have to sharpen as often?
@blowupuate13 - generally true as long as you're talking about consistent amount of abuse to the blade edge. ByAs long as you mean by "lower" the angle like 20degree inclusive edge versus a "higher" (steeper) angle like 40 degree inclusive.
@sasokavcic66 Yes, you have to rely on very tight clamping & eyeball the even-ness of the clamping - it will slip easily but is held in place better if you cover your blade with paper, leather, or other nonslip contact.
i got the diamon lansky kit about 6 weeks ago and the diamon rod especiaky the purlpe and the orange dont bite as much as before in the metal. i did use the oil but the rod still dont work properly....???? is this fast ware normal, are real stone beter than diamon my knife are quite on the hard side? peace
@pikepeak1 You must be using superhard steels. The diamonds embedded in the rods can get dislodged but not really "worn away" by steel. You could take a look at them under a scope - if they have been unseated, you may be out of luck - the Diasharp DMT stones have smaller diamonds embedded in the metal, thus much less likely to get dislodged. Real stones are definitely inferior to diamond rods & "stones" UNLESS you're talking about the very expensive & fast wearing Japanese water stones.
@mycaddigo assuming you're willing to re-clamp again & again, you could sharpen a blade of any length, even a samurai sword, but you will have some irregularities at the transition zones every time you re-clamp until you become pretty good at blending.
@blowupuate13 you mean using the files on th SAK? Yes it's possible, but you'd ruin the file for good - also, you'd need finer grades of sharpening material to hone the blade edge - there's a guy here on youtube who shows how to sharpen roughly using a 1)cinder block, then 2) fine red brick, then 3) his belt to strop - & gets a decent sharpness on his blade. I forget his name/channel but maybe searching might find it.
What is the fines diamond stone you used? I think Lansky diamond stones does not provide Ultra Fine 1000 grit as do the regular Lanksy stones. Could that be an issue? Thanks for the video, there is a good deal of information I haven't seen anywhere. Seems that small blades could be a pain using this system.
@Mateyhv1 The fine diamond stone is probably adequate grit before moving on to leather stropping - it is around 600 grit. I'm using the Lansky "Super Saffire" stone as an "ultra-fine stone" - it is 2000 grit. Fairly cheap at ~$13.
Yes you have created a nice even bevel, and as you are doing you always sharpen pushing the sharpener into the blade edge not pulling it off the blade edge making sure you dont have to much of a burr when you finally stropp the knife, very informative video.
Sorry for the I'm sure stupid question, but what is "feeling for the burr"? I think I understand what you mean, but I'm not sure.
lonesoldier101 2 months ago
hey any tips on how i cat get the oil off my diamond stone (fine) i accidentaly spill some on it.
mrkackerwacker 3 months ago
@mrkackerwacker - any strong solvent should do it - nail-polish remover, kerosene, or gasoline should take care of it
pelahale 3 months ago
@pelahale thanks for the advice; it actually worked. BTW is just realized i forgot to say spill some oil onit.
mrkackerwacker 3 months ago
clap clap clap.thats a one hell of a nice video dude.thank you very much.
im thinking to get lansky deluxe(not the diamond one) cus i cant repair the chips and control my edge perfectly as u sad.
MrHALOCOUST 4 months ago
Hey thanks for responding to my prior questions... I find sometimes I just need a touch up so I strop and I'm back to hair popping edge. Is that ok? Or should I sharpen? Not sure what the diff is.
1dducks 4 months ago
@1dducks - hey, the less you sharpen with hard stones, the longer your blade lasts, so stropping til the sharpness no longer meets your satisfaction is always the first option.
pelahale 4 months ago
Have you worked much with ZDP-189?
If so, how would you rate it against D-2, or VG-10?
boomboom314159 5 months ago
From hardest to sharpen to easiest how would you rate the following steels: 154CM, S30V, VG10, 440C, AUS8, D2? Thanks!
1dducks 6 months ago
@1dducks depends alot on the heat-treat (thus the manufacturer), but for your list generally: hardest to sharpen is D2, then s30v, 154cm, 440c, VG10, then AUS8 are the softest.
pelahale 6 months ago
that's a beautiful edge, nice job!
bearseatbeats4567 7 months ago
Almost fell asleep but it's 2:00am!
polerigger 7 months ago
trianglesharpmaker is better !!!
MrEddyilbello 8 months ago
Best video yet.. I was using the "swinging" upward motion, I guess that is why i haven been unsatisfied with its sharpness!
Musicmanstngry 10 months ago
chipped the holy hell out of my knife today and all i have to fix it with is a old whet stone, lol awesome.
xlxshanexlx 10 months ago
Tell me if I got this correct. The lower the angle the sharper the knife, but you will have to sharpen more often, and the higher the angle the more dull the blade, but you will NOT have to sharpen as often?
blowupuate13 11 months ago
@blowupuate13 - generally true as long as you're talking about consistent amount of abuse to the blade edge. ByAs long as you mean by "lower" the angle like 20degree inclusive edge versus a "higher" (steeper) angle like 40 degree inclusive.
pelahale 11 months ago
@pelahale ok thanks! just didnt want to get that wrong thank you!
40 degree = not as sharp but more durable
20 degree = sharper but not as durable as 40
blowupuate13 11 months ago
Very good informative video. Do you have any problems sharpening full flat ground knives, as they don't have any flat parts on the blade?
sasokavcic66 1 year ago
@sasokavcic66 Yes, you have to rely on very tight clamping & eyeball the even-ness of the clamping - it will slip easily but is held in place better if you cover your blade with paper, leather, or other nonslip contact.
pelahale 1 year ago
@pelahale thanks
sasokavcic66 1 year ago
@pelahale thanks
sasokavcic66 1 year ago
i got the diamon lansky kit about 6 weeks ago and the diamon rod especiaky the purlpe and the orange dont bite as much as before in the metal. i did use the oil but the rod still dont work properly....???? is this fast ware normal, are real stone beter than diamon my knife are quite on the hard side? peace
pikepeak1 1 year ago
@pikepeak1 You must be using superhard steels. The diamonds embedded in the rods can get dislodged but not really "worn away" by steel. You could take a look at them under a scope - if they have been unseated, you may be out of luck - the Diasharp DMT stones have smaller diamonds embedded in the metal, thus much less likely to get dislodged. Real stones are definitely inferior to diamond rods & "stones" UNLESS you're talking about the very expensive & fast wearing Japanese water stones.
pelahale 1 year ago
how long of a blade will these sharpen?
mycaddigo 1 year ago
@mycaddigo assuming you're willing to re-clamp again & again, you could sharpen a blade of any length, even a samurai sword, but you will have some irregularities at the transition zones every time you re-clamp until you become pretty good at blending.
pelahale 1 year ago
@pelahale is it possible to sharpen a wood saw or metal saw on a swiss army knife?
blowupuate13 11 months ago
@blowupuate13 you mean using the files on th SAK? Yes it's possible, but you'd ruin the file for good - also, you'd need finer grades of sharpening material to hone the blade edge - there's a guy here on youtube who shows how to sharpen roughly using a 1)cinder block, then 2) fine red brick, then 3) his belt to strop - & gets a decent sharpness on his blade. I forget his name/channel but maybe searching might find it.
pelahale 11 months ago
@pelahale hey thanks for the info!
blowupuate13 11 months ago
@pelahale "siberianfury" is the one your looking for
TheNeedyCat 6 months ago
dam that was a great video keep them coming
eleblu05 1 year ago
What is the fines diamond stone you used? I think Lansky diamond stones does not provide Ultra Fine 1000 grit as do the regular Lanksy stones. Could that be an issue? Thanks for the video, there is a good deal of information I haven't seen anywhere. Seems that small blades could be a pain using this system.
Mateyhv1 1 year ago
@Mateyhv1 The fine diamond stone is probably adequate grit before moving on to leather stropping - it is around 600 grit. I'm using the Lansky "Super Saffire" stone as an "ultra-fine stone" - it is 2000 grit. Fairly cheap at ~$13.
pelahale 1 year ago
I bought a Gatco system, and was very disapointed, because I had the problems you described.
Small blades + small angles are a real pain.
I will try your method, reclamp the blade and do the sharpening on the non clamped side only.
Thank you for this great video.
smsking2 1 year ago
@smsking2 Thanks for the input, I hope you'll try it again - the Gatco's are supposedly better than the Lansky, see what you think.
pelahale 1 year ago
Yes you have created a nice even bevel, and as you are doing you always sharpen pushing the sharpener into the blade edge not pulling it off the blade edge making sure you dont have to much of a burr when you finally stropp the knife, very informative video.
merthyrmafia 1 year ago
@merthyrmafia thanks - appreciate the input
pelahale 1 year ago
★★★★★ツ
007TheReaper007 1 year ago
cool vid very educational
erick8245 1 year ago