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  • Sorry for the I'm sure stupid question, but what is "feeling for the burr"? I think I understand what you mean, but I'm not sure.

  • hey any tips on how i cat get the oil off my diamond stone (fine) i accidentaly spill some on it.

  • @mrkackerwacker - any strong solvent should do it - nail-polish remover, kerosene, or gasoline should take care of it

  • @pelahale thanks for the advice; it actually worked. BTW is just realized i forgot to say spill some oil onit.

  • clap clap clap.thats a one hell of a nice video dude.thank you very much.

    im thinking to get lansky deluxe(not the diamond one) cus i cant repair the chips and control my edge perfectly as u sad.

  • Hey thanks for responding to my prior questions... I find sometimes I just need a touch up so I strop and I'm back to hair popping edge. Is that ok? Or should I sharpen? Not sure what the diff is.

  • @1dducks - hey, the less you sharpen with hard stones, the longer your blade lasts, so stropping til the sharpness no longer meets your satisfaction is always the first option.

  • Have you worked much with ZDP-189?

    If so, how would you rate it against D-2, or VG-10?

  • From hardest to sharpen to easiest how would you rate the following steels: 154CM, S30V, VG10, 440C, AUS8, D2? Thanks!

  • @1dducks depends alot on the heat-treat (thus the manufacturer), but for your list generally: hardest to sharpen is D2, then s30v, 154cm, 440c, VG10, then AUS8 are the softest.

  • that's a beautiful edge, nice job!

  • Almost fell asleep but it's 2:00am!

  • trianglesharpmaker is better !!!

  • Best video yet.. I was using the "swinging" upward motion, I guess that is why i haven been unsatisfied with its sharpness!

  • chipped the holy hell out of my knife today and all i have to fix it with is a old whet stone, lol awesome.

  • Tell me if I got this correct. The lower the angle the sharper the knife, but you will have to sharpen more often, and the higher the angle the more dull the blade, but you will NOT have to sharpen as often?

  • @blowupuate13 - generally true as long as you're talking about consistent amount of abuse to the blade edge. ByAs long as you mean by "lower" the angle like 20degree inclusive edge versus a "higher" (steeper) angle like 40 degree inclusive.

  • @pelahale ok thanks! just didnt want to get that wrong thank you!

    40 degree = not as sharp but more durable

    20 degree = sharper but not as durable as 40

  • Very good informative video. Do you have any problems sharpening full flat ground knives, as they don't have any flat parts on the blade?

  • @sasokavcic66 Yes, you have to rely on very tight clamping & eyeball the even-ness of the clamping - it will slip easily but is held in place better if you cover your blade with paper, leather, or other nonslip contact.

  • @pelahale thanks

  • @pelahale thanks

  • i got the diamon lansky kit about 6 weeks ago and the diamon rod especiaky the purlpe and the orange dont bite as much as before in the metal. i did use the oil but the rod still dont work properly....???? is this fast ware normal, are real stone beter than diamon my knife are quite on the hard side? peace

  • @pikepeak1 You must be using superhard steels. The diamonds embedded in the rods can get dislodged but not really "worn away" by steel. You could take a look at them under a scope - if they have been unseated, you may be out of luck - the Diasharp DMT stones have smaller diamonds embedded in the metal, thus much less likely to get dislodged. Real stones are definitely inferior to diamond rods & "stones" UNLESS you're talking about the very expensive & fast wearing Japanese water stones.

  • how long of a blade will these sharpen?

  • @mycaddigo assuming you're willing to re-clamp again & again, you could sharpen a blade of any length, even a samurai sword, but you will have some irregularities at the transition zones every time you re-clamp until you become pretty good at blending.

  • @pelahale is it possible to sharpen a wood saw or metal saw on a swiss army knife?

  • @blowupuate13 you mean using the files on th SAK? Yes it's possible, but you'd ruin the file for good - also, you'd need finer grades of sharpening material to hone the blade edge - there's a guy here on youtube who shows how to sharpen roughly using a 1)cinder block, then 2) fine red brick, then 3) his belt to strop - & gets a decent sharpness on his blade. I forget his name/channel but maybe searching might find it.

  • @pelahale hey thanks for the info!

  • @pelahale "siberianfury" is the one your looking for

  • dam that was a great video keep them coming

  • What is the fines diamond stone you used? I think Lansky diamond stones does not provide Ultra Fine 1000 grit as do the regular Lanksy stones. Could that be an issue? Thanks for the video, there is a good deal of information I haven't seen anywhere. Seems that small blades could be a pain using this system.

  • @Mateyhv1 The fine diamond stone is probably adequate grit before moving on to leather stropping - it is around 600 grit. I'm  using the Lansky "Super Saffire" stone as an "ultra-fine stone" - it is 2000 grit. Fairly cheap at ~$13.

  • I bought a Gatco system, and was very disapointed, because I had the problems you described.

    Small blades + small angles are a real pain.

    I will try your method, reclamp the blade and do the sharpening on the non clamped side only.

    Thank you for this great video.

  • @smsking2 Thanks for the input, I hope you'll try it again - the Gatco's are supposedly better than the Lansky, see what you think.

  • Yes you have created a nice even bevel, and as you are doing you always sharpen pushing the sharpener into the blade edge not pulling it off the blade edge making sure you dont have to much of a burr when you finally stropp the knife, very informative video.

  • @merthyrmafia thanks - appreciate the input

  • ★★★★★ツ

  • cool vid very educational

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