Is there a cheapo way to clean out the rust and sludge deposits safely? Like adding Ajax or some other household degreaser without compromising hoses and seals and internal workings? Thanks, i love you.
@gypsyoutdoors I looked around and found that citric acid (vitamin c), in crystal/powder form is the the best. It is used by Mercedes to clean their parts. It is non corrosive (until about a week of sitting in your aluminum radiator, and it eats away ALL rust deposits without harming any hoses or internal workings. It is recommended 2lbs (pounds) per radiator. Also ascorbic acid (vitamin c) will work too, sold at your local pool store (1.6lbs for about $35) but heard it doesn't work as well??
@offyam Maybe with the ascorbic acid you might need to use more, or let it actually sit in the radiator longer (you do not have to let the citric acid sit for a week or even more than 2 days, really, but they need to spend some time in there at the varying temperatures and cycles (don't forget to turn AC/heat on). Thanks for the response, though, but CLR can eat away the aluminum quickly is what i read.
@gypsyoutdoors heater cores are made of aluminum, as well. I simply would not risk it. I've replaced heater cores and radiators, thankfully both on an 85 chevy impala which has lots of space to work in in the engine compartment. I would not ever want to replace them on a newer vehicle. They were still a pain to replace and of course consider the money and time to replace them. Best bet is to go the safe route, even if it means spending 10-20 extra bucks on ascorbic acid (2-5lbs citric acid $20).
@offyam Agreed, I had to change out the heater core on my truck and it was a MAJOR PITA - I have two vehicles, and older '88 Ranger, and a newer '01 Ranger.. the old one you just pop the glove box off and the heater core is right there.. the newer one I had to remove the entire front dash, all wiring - as well as jumping into the engine bay to remove all the bolts behind the engine block. Its better to just properly flush your system then having to replace a core.
@sanuary Yeah really...I especially like how in the video series (that they set up), this isn't even close to the first video. Maybe "expert village" should be renamed "amateur village". No offense to the trained professionals in the videos, but the filming, editing and marketing staff sucks hard.
Is coolant same as radiator
hmfuku12 5 months ago
What is the Garden Hose for
13FravelJ 7 months ago
Is there a cheapo way to clean out the rust and sludge deposits safely? Like adding Ajax or some other household degreaser without compromising hoses and seals and internal workings? Thanks, i love you.
offyam 1 year ago
@offyam CLR that stuff for your tub and sinks.....let it sit for ten min before flushing
gypsyoutdoors 1 year ago
@gypsyoutdoors I looked around and found that citric acid (vitamin c), in crystal/powder form is the the best. It is used by Mercedes to clean their parts. It is non corrosive (until about a week of sitting in your aluminum radiator, and it eats away ALL rust deposits without harming any hoses or internal workings. It is recommended 2lbs (pounds) per radiator. Also ascorbic acid (vitamin c) will work too, sold at your local pool store (1.6lbs for about $35) but heard it doesn't work as well??
offyam 1 year ago
@offyam Maybe with the ascorbic acid you might need to use more, or let it actually sit in the radiator longer (you do not have to let the citric acid sit for a week or even more than 2 days, really, but they need to spend some time in there at the varying temperatures and cycles (don't forget to turn AC/heat on). Thanks for the response, though, but CLR can eat away the aluminum quickly is what i read.
offyam 1 year ago
@offyam maybe it was just heater cores that you can use clr in....?
gypsyoutdoors 1 year ago
@gypsyoutdoors heater cores are made of aluminum, as well. I simply would not risk it. I've replaced heater cores and radiators, thankfully both on an 85 chevy impala which has lots of space to work in in the engine compartment. I would not ever want to replace them on a newer vehicle. They were still a pain to replace and of course consider the money and time to replace them. Best bet is to go the safe route, even if it means spending 10-20 extra bucks on ascorbic acid (2-5lbs citric acid $20).
offyam 1 year ago
@offyam Agreed, I had to change out the heater core on my truck and it was a MAJOR PITA - I have two vehicles, and older '88 Ranger, and a newer '01 Ranger.. the old one you just pop the glove box off and the heater core is right there.. the newer one I had to remove the entire front dash, all wiring - as well as jumping into the engine bay to remove all the bolts behind the engine block. Its better to just properly flush your system then having to replace a core.
WowMike2002 10 months ago
Lol at the start " In this clip "
200twistatwista 1 year ago 4
48 seconds...what idots are posting this shit?
Chupria 1 year ago
thank you very much.That is so helpul. thanks for post this clip
chickenhero2richland 1 year ago
he make its sooo complicated
superwhiz88 2 years ago
absolutely correct..i agree..they shud be numbered to view sequentially, else they are useless..
tarunchopra2005 2 years ago
Very helpful videos. Many thanks for that.
Would be nice to number the videos captions sequentially so that we can watch them sequentially. Regards
sanuary 3 years ago 7
@sanuary Yeah really...I especially like how in the video series (that they set up), this isn't even close to the first video. Maybe "expert village" should be renamed "amateur village". No offense to the trained professionals in the videos, but the filming, editing and marketing staff sucks hard.
phoenix1421 10 months ago