This is a great video but as a communications engineer Ill tell you no un protected parts in a store or junkyard will be operational after the incident. You must buy the parts prior to the incident and faraway protect them. Mike
I have a question, in the event of an EMP, we all know our modern fuel injected computer managed automobiles will shut down. It seems to me it would be smart to purchase a 'spare" ECU and place it in an EMP proof safe until needed after an EMP. You would be one of the few people to have a working vehicle after an EMP, along with those still driving old cars with point type ignition system. Of course, I already have plenty of STABIL treated gasoline cached right now, enough to travel 1500 miles.
Just get an old diesel with mechanical injection!!!! Even if EVERY electronic component gives up, All you do is remove the stop solenoid plunger and push start the car! Job Done :)
Hey SurvivalEngineering What do you think about using jumper cables from the chassis ground of your car to the copper water pipes in your house? I know electricity take the path of least resistance. In theory this method should ground your car. Also another thing that I can't seem to find info is on my S&G electronic lock on my safe. How do I protect that?
To be honest, not sure on the ground. Haven't looked into it. I think that kind of grounding deal would work for a direct lightning style hit but, I am not sure if an EMP would have the same traits as a straight electrical current.
On the safe issue. I have one too. Got it in a cragslist trade. Nothing really in it because I guess it just seems like a PITA if the batteries just go dead or in the case of an EMP. Maybe it would be alright since the exterior is metal??
More commentary. One thing I did notice on my safe when I was drilling thru the bottom to mount it to the concrete floor was it's a thin metal shell and a plastic interior liner with some sort of clay making up the bulk of the mass. It wasn't too hard to drill thru with a cordless so, I figured if I needed in and had some time, a round hole pattern with a hand drill then, knock out the hole with a hammer should get access into the safes with the digital keypads.
@smookee408 Retool and redesign your engines and other power source to be free of anything electronics and simplify the electricals and harden them against infinitely high emp bursts. The best is the simplest diesel engine wt the simplest design using almost no electricals and using back up compressor powered air pump to drive a compressed air powered starter and equipped wt analog non-electronic/electrical controls & monitor, & using mechanical fuel injectors and all things mechanicals only!
From what I've read on other blogs, the rubber gasket might allow an EMP pulse to enter. Try putting your cell phone in the ammo can and calling it. Does it ring? The strength of an EMP pulse will be much, much stronger than a cell phone call. Instead, put your backup electronics in a tight sealing galvanized trash can and ground the trash can to the house ground or a copper grounding stake.
No matter what make, model or year of vehicle, if you disconnect BOTH battery cables, your vehicle will be exempt from any EMP activity. Dude is correct by telling you that you should have an extra pickup module for your Chevy, and/or a starter solenoid for your Ford. Forget about the coil. Energy is transferred via the pickup module/ solenoid to the coil, which in turn energizes the coil for fire. Once again, keep a vehicle's batt. disconnected and you'll be rollin' AFTER an E.M.P. hit.
Hello Jack, we belong to a group of fiberglass- VW driven-jeep-owners.
My question is: aren't fiberglass/ carbon fibre more vulnerable to EMPs since the steel hood /steel fire-wall of a regular car protects the engine better?
although his truck is post 1985 and might have something else ok but running a hot wire to that HEI there would eliminate that issue and the replacemnt of the module inside the distributoer would make things fine.
WTF!!! I am a mechanic the only stuff on that truck that should be there and worry about is the coil true OK and under the cap on the distributor there is a electronic control module that runs the distributor there cheap and those are the only two true replacemtn parts for them I have those from being a 4x4 in the woods and a starter is always a good idea as well although not required for EMP .although would a alternator if its running cause a issue ?.
Garden seeds also are effected by EMP ,,STORE THEM IN A METAL CAN TOO..yep I got two oldies that can swap parts ,cheaper to insure and tag -China now controls 85/90 percent of the rare earth metals and has just stated they will be stopping production for about 3 months to clean up the toxions,,nearly all motors require rare earth metals ,,high power magnets in wind generators to readers on hard drives ..Great post ,,Thank You !!
The real reason for the "cash for clunkers" program was to eliminate most of the EMP-proof vehicles. I would think that any vehicle with electronic ignition would be disabled by an EMP. Electronic ignition started in the early 1970s; and by 1980, I think almost every car had it. Better get gas masks for everyone, too. A few months after they do the EMP, they will spray poison gas from airplanes to kill the few survivors after the famine. The biggest cities will be battle and death zones. Or not.
@shovelniron ....... I was also told that if you leave the battery disconnected then that would protect the vehicles electrical system.... if you had a second vehicle parked for such an occasion....
@shovelniron In normal every day life, it's a lot better. However, it needs sensors to work. But the sensors are still cheaper than a computer. Sensors are like $10-$20 a pop and can typically be changed out in 10 minutes. The computer is what's going to kill ya. Honestly, they make some excellent bicycles these days. While everyone is killing each other over a gallon of gas, you can just pedal by at about 35mph. Easier to hide a bike too.
@DontCloudMe ....yeah that might be kinda true but it's alot easier to get shot riding a bike too, plus it's alot harder to hold a shotgun and shoot when you have to hold handle bars and pedal your as* off...hahahahha,....
I have a 1979 GMC truck with a 250ci six I althought it isnt 4 wheel driveIt is one of my BOV. It is primitve. I have extra coil, ignition modual, alternator, sparks,diolectric cream, fuel filters and fuel pump. My other BOV is a 1994 Isuzu trooper.
Nice to have, but if an EMP hit, riots, no gas would be the rule. How about an old dirt bike? Uses alot less fuel and should cost alot less than a vehicle (truck/car) thoughts?
I was under the impression that if you cabled or chained from your cars frame into the ground with a ground pole that it wont affect your car at all?? Is that wrong?
Dude look up Fuel trucks, they trail a metal chain onto the road to act as an electrical earth so static & EMP effects don't ignite the fuel in the tank.
@ethanolwon Electronic components housed inside a container such as the one shown do not need further protection as the EMP's energy will only be present on the outside of the metal container. See "Faraday Cage"
Hey Jack, My personal rule of thumb is if the electrical system has electronics in it, they would be the weak link. On the ignition module, while i am not 100% positive, I just looked up how it functions and I am going to say that it should be alright as it appears to be a magnetic or Hall Effect signal middleman to the plugs. I am not sure if there is anything in it top overload and fry. I suppose if it has resistors or capacitors in it and it may it would be a weak link.
Coronal mass ejections (CME) will come in consecutive waves lasting months. Most people will install their backup parts at the first sign of failure. Which can destroy all that you have. The best solution is to harden the system or like the video suggest, get as many backups as you can afford. ECM, ICM, pickup sensors.
@sadieblooming The amount of time the Earth would be exposed to any specific CME is a little over two days max. However, your point is well taken. There could always be another CME whose line of fire would hit the Earth. Unless you had a local astronomer who would monitor the sun everyday, your backup parts would most likely get fried too. Even if you wait until after the 2013 solar max, the battery would be dead and gas, bad. Better to stock up on bicycle tires and inner-tubes.
Rockin' ED209! Appreciate the addition to the missing component to safeguard. I am in concurrence with the computer. The emissions are obviously upgraded on mine so i didn't figure it was necessary but again, won't hurt to have a backup in case. Feel free to make any additions to this page if you have any ideas! I and others will appreciate the input.
1. I have a GM vehicle also, 1985 chevy G30 van, carb. Been studying this situation for about a year or more now. From what I found, the computer on these older GM models like ours are very "primitive" and doesn't control anything vital, this is what I was told from a mechanic. But I guess it's always good to have a back up computer anyway.
2. I believe that the ECM module is another consideration, without that, no ignition.
how do we make your neighbours disappear so i can move in? lol
your knowledge is priceless.
crsbt 1 week ago
This is a great video but as a communications engineer Ill tell you no un protected parts in a store or junkyard will be operational after the incident. You must buy the parts prior to the incident and faraway protect them. Mike
777brothermike 1 week ago
Most Cars are EMP proof
gasmaskhalo3 1 week ago
Ammo cans will not protect the contents. That is a myth that was debunked years ago. Any vehicle with wires is susceptible to EMP.
TheDD563 1 month ago
The parts should not touch the metal can. Line the metal box with cardboard and you will be fine.
jay420365 1 month ago
What about the performance of an ATV thats in the garage?
survivallaxprep21 1 month ago
Only components with circuits are able to be fried by emp, that leaves bat out of the game...
KnightGadiel 1 month ago
If you interested the Faraday cage may be helpful!
Angelsassassin86 2 months ago
would te battery be effected?
Angelsassassin86 2 months ago
@Angelsassassin86
Negative... Battery should be fine.
Redrum07 1 week ago
This has been flagged as spam show
I have a question, in the event of an EMP, we all know our modern fuel injected computer managed automobiles will shut down. It seems to me it would be smart to purchase a 'spare" ECU and place it in an EMP proof safe until needed after an EMP. You would be one of the few people to have a working vehicle after an EMP, along with those still driving old cars with point type ignition system. Of course, I already have plenty of STABIL treated gasoline cached right now, enough to travel 1500 miles.
GTVAlfaMan 2 months ago
Just get an old diesel with mechanical injection!!!! Even if EVERY electronic component gives up, All you do is remove the stop solenoid plunger and push start the car! Job Done :)
DIESEL ALL THE WAY!
NickExton309 2 months ago
Hey SurvivalEngineering What do you think about using jumper cables from the chassis ground of your car to the copper water pipes in your house? I know electricity take the path of least resistance. In theory this method should ground your car. Also another thing that I can't seem to find info is on my S&G electronic lock on my safe. How do I protect that?
smookee408 3 months ago
@smookee408
To be honest, not sure on the ground. Haven't looked into it. I think that kind of grounding deal would work for a direct lightning style hit but, I am not sure if an EMP would have the same traits as a straight electrical current.
On the safe issue. I have one too. Got it in a cragslist trade. Nothing really in it because I guess it just seems like a PITA if the batteries just go dead or in the case of an EMP. Maybe it would be alright since the exterior is metal??
SurvivalEngineering 3 months ago
More commentary. One thing I did notice on my safe when I was drilling thru the bottom to mount it to the concrete floor was it's a thin metal shell and a plastic interior liner with some sort of clay making up the bulk of the mass. It wasn't too hard to drill thru with a cordless so, I figured if I needed in and had some time, a round hole pattern with a hand drill then, knock out the hole with a hammer should get access into the safes with the digital keypads.
SurvivalEngineering 3 months ago
@smookee408 Retool and redesign your engines and other power source to be free of anything electronics and simplify the electricals and harden them against infinitely high emp bursts. The best is the simplest diesel engine wt the simplest design using almost no electricals and using back up compressor powered air pump to drive a compressed air powered starter and equipped wt analog non-electronic/electrical controls & monitor, & using mechanical fuel injectors and all things mechanicals only!
darthvader5300 1 month ago
From what I've read on other blogs, the rubber gasket might allow an EMP pulse to enter. Try putting your cell phone in the ammo can and calling it. Does it ring? The strength of an EMP pulse will be much, much stronger than a cell phone call. Instead, put your backup electronics in a tight sealing galvanized trash can and ground the trash can to the house ground or a copper grounding stake.
911liberty 4 months ago
You guys rock with the technical info. Thanks for keeping the relevant questions and comments rolling in. _SE
SurvivalEngineering 5 months ago
No matter what make, model or year of vehicle, if you disconnect BOTH battery cables, your vehicle will be exempt from any EMP activity. Dude is correct by telling you that you should have an extra pickup module for your Chevy, and/or a starter solenoid for your Ford. Forget about the coil. Energy is transferred via the pickup module/ solenoid to the coil, which in turn energizes the coil for fire. Once again, keep a vehicle's batt. disconnected and you'll be rollin' AFTER an E.M.P. hit.
SuperPeoplearestupid 5 months ago
@SuperPeoplearestupid not so. gotta be in a Faraday cage.
fastacker2 4 months ago
What about parking the car in a giant faraday cage? Should that protect it against emp?
hondacivic1992 5 months ago
I'd like to think that too SE. Sadly, according to a Senator's testimony a few weeks or a month or so ago, he testified one is eminent.
singingcowboy674 5 months ago
Hello Jack, we belong to a group of fiberglass- VW driven-jeep-owners.
My question is: aren't fiberglass/ carbon fibre more vulnerable to EMPs since the steel hood /steel fire-wall of a regular car protects the engine better?
Thank you!
megabocaina 5 months ago
although his truck is post 1985 and might have something else ok but running a hot wire to that HEI there would eliminate that issue and the replacemnt of the module inside the distributoer would make things fine.
dunn98632 5 months ago
WTF!!! I am a mechanic the only stuff on that truck that should be there and worry about is the coil true OK and under the cap on the distributor there is a electronic control module that runs the distributor there cheap and those are the only two true replacemtn parts for them I have those from being a 4x4 in the woods and a starter is always a good idea as well although not required for EMP .although would a alternator if its running cause a issue ?.
dunn98632 5 months ago
Garden seeds also are effected by EMP ,,STORE THEM IN A METAL CAN TOO..yep I got two oldies that can swap parts ,cheaper to insure and tag -China now controls 85/90 percent of the rare earth metals and has just stated they will be stopping production for about 3 months to clean up the toxions,,nearly all motors require rare earth metals ,,high power magnets in wind generators to readers on hard drives ..Great post ,,Thank You !!
wizardangel 5 months ago
The real reason for the "cash for clunkers" program was to eliminate most of the EMP-proof vehicles. I would think that any vehicle with electronic ignition would be disabled by an EMP. Electronic ignition started in the early 1970s; and by 1980, I think almost every car had it. Better get gas masks for everyone, too. A few months after they do the EMP, they will spray poison gas from airplanes to kill the few survivors after the famine. The biggest cities will be battle and death zones. Or not.
Rockstar97321 5 months ago
so what's the deal with fuel injection? Why is it worse?
shovelniron 5 months ago
@shovelniron ....... I was also told that if you leave the battery disconnected then that would protect the vehicles electrical system.... if you had a second vehicle parked for such an occasion....
shovelniron 5 months ago
@shovelniron In normal every day life, it's a lot better. However, it needs sensors to work. But the sensors are still cheaper than a computer. Sensors are like $10-$20 a pop and can typically be changed out in 10 minutes. The computer is what's going to kill ya. Honestly, they make some excellent bicycles these days. While everyone is killing each other over a gallon of gas, you can just pedal by at about 35mph. Easier to hide a bike too.
DontCloudMe 5 months ago
@DontCloudMe ....yeah that might be kinda true but it's alot easier to get shot riding a bike too, plus it's alot harder to hold a shotgun and shoot when you have to hold handle bars and pedal your as* off...hahahahha,....
shovelniron 5 months ago
I have a 1979 GMC truck with a 250ci six I althought it isnt 4 wheel driveIt is one of my BOV. It is primitve. I have extra coil, ignition modual, alternator, sparks,diolectric cream, fuel filters and fuel pump. My other BOV is a 1994 Isuzu trooper.
MOJONIXION 6 months ago
Nice to have, but if an EMP hit, riots, no gas would be the rule. How about an old dirt bike? Uses alot less fuel and should cost alot less than a vehicle (truck/car) thoughts?
wigwamman1 6 months ago
My rule on EMP vehicle: If it isn't simple enough to run on a coil & points...it's going to be a paperweight.
Second rule: If you need one back up...you need 2 at least.
Back during the GulfWar the US military had equipment that was better protected than they are today. When talking nuke emp..think line of site also.
IronRangeSurvival 6 months ago
too bad i live in massachusetts .....try finding any old vehicle that has not disintergrated from rust
inkey2 6 months ago
Cannot get rid of my 2010....guess I'm hosed.
ProphetChaser 6 months ago
Ya know Tadow... That sounds feasible to me unless some components were isolated. Thanks for the comment... I had not heard of or considered that.
SurvivalEngineering 6 months ago
I was under the impression that if you cabled or chained from your cars frame into the ground with a ground pole that it wont affect your car at all?? Is that wrong?
Tadow001 6 months ago
Dude look up Fuel trucks, they trail a metal chain onto the road to act as an electrical earth so static & EMP effects don't ignite the fuel in the tank.
marmaladekamikaze 7 months ago
@ethanolwon Electronic components housed inside a container such as the one shown do not need further protection as the EMP's energy will only be present on the outside of the metal container. See "Faraday Cage"
einzigal 8 months ago
Thanks for your reply. I already had stashed a few because I didn't know for sure. Thank you for your videos.
Peace and Health,
tinkerjack 8 months ago
Do you know if an EMP would destroy the ignition module?
tinkerjack 8 months ago
@tinkerjack
Hey Jack, My personal rule of thumb is if the electrical system has electronics in it, they would be the weak link. On the ignition module, while i am not 100% positive, I just looked up how it functions and I am going to say that it should be alright as it appears to be a magnetic or Hall Effect signal middleman to the plugs. I am not sure if there is anything in it top overload and fry. I suppose if it has resistors or capacitors in it and it may it would be a weak link.
SurvivalEngineering 8 months ago
Coronal mass ejections (CME) will come in consecutive waves lasting months. Most people will install their backup parts at the first sign of failure. Which can destroy all that you have. The best solution is to harden the system or like the video suggest, get as many backups as you can afford. ECM, ICM, pickup sensors.
sadieblooming 9 months ago
@sadieblooming The amount of time the Earth would be exposed to any specific CME is a little over two days max. However, your point is well taken. There could always be another CME whose line of fire would hit the Earth. Unless you had a local astronomer who would monitor the sun everyday, your backup parts would most likely get fried too. Even if you wait until after the 2013 solar max, the battery would be dead and gas, bad. Better to stock up on bicycle tires and inner-tubes.
rdgrass 6 months ago
CME are what we need to worry about
annaethoms 9 months ago
You'll want to make sure your ammo can lid has intimate contact (metal to metal, paint is a conductor) contact with can itself...
TacticalGunGuy 1 year ago
Rockin' ED209! Appreciate the addition to the missing component to safeguard. I am in concurrence with the computer. The emissions are obviously upgraded on mine so i didn't figure it was necessary but again, won't hurt to have a backup in case. Feel free to make any additions to this page if you have any ideas! I and others will appreciate the input.
SurvivalEngineering 1 year ago
Good vid. A few things:
1. I have a GM vehicle also, 1985 chevy G30 van, carb. Been studying this situation for about a year or more now. From what I found, the computer on these older GM models like ours are very "primitive" and doesn't control anything vital, this is what I was told from a mechanic. But I guess it's always good to have a back up computer anyway.
2. I believe that the ECM module is another consideration, without that, no ignition.
ED209ISBACK 1 year ago