that noise is NORMAL In that engine.. cold start produces that noise,,, When engine is heat noise reduces.... Piston grow up and cleareance between piston and cylinder decrease......DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT.
@HEDONISTA65 you say dont worry about it, but i live in new york, so the weather is starting to warm up. i got my 3.4l alero in the summer and it never sounded like that. i noticed it more once november hit, now were going into march, the spring and its getting louder and louder. still dont worry about it?
clean the top of the pistons off. Crabon build up. There is less than .020 clearance between the head and pistons. A little bit of carbon and it nocks cold. Warms up and the clearance increase a bit.
If you have trouble getting the cooling system up to regular operating temp, put the cap on and take it for a quick spin up the road and back - it'll get there. Just be really careful when taking off the hot cap when you return, or you'll get a hot coolant bath! You can do it with or without the engine running. Put a couple of rags on the cap and turn it slowly to the 1st detent. It will puke a bunch of hot coolant and air out. You will have to likely refill some of what gets pushed out.
Sorry, but I'm 100% right on this. I'm a professional technician and have fixed HUNDREDS of these GM's. The noise you are hearing is lifter tick, NOT piston slap! Most of you wouldn't know piston slap if it slapped you upside the head! Piston slap makes little to no noteable noise at higher RPM's, and at low RPM's it makes the engine sound very "diesel-like". Lifter tick is a super common GM problem caused by coolant getting into the engine oil, typically caused by bad intake manifold gaskets.
@SuperTurboDiesel2 How do you fix the lifter tick? My sounds like this I thought it was a lifter, but later I though it might have been and exhaust leak. What do you think?
@derrike50: It requires removing the intake manifolds (both the upper and lower) and replacing the hydraulic lifters, as well as the intake manifold gaskets. Buy the Fel-Pro ones. From my perspective, they are a little pricey, but worth it. You can get the complete "top-end" kit, or just cheap out and buy 'em piece by piece, so to speak. Typically, you can buy just an intake manifold kit and be ok. The complete top-end kit comes with the head gaskets, and you shouldn't need to go that far.
@derrike50: Use a fresh 50/50 mix of GREEN (or yellow) coolant when you refill your cooling system. Also be sure to bleed the air from the air bleeders, if your engine has them. Earlier 3.1L and 3.4L's had bleeders & later production ones didn't. If your car has air bleeders, one will be located on the passenger's side of the vehicle, in the line that comes straight up out of the water pump (on the top), and the other will be on the opposite (driver's) side, in the top of the thermostat housing.
@derrike50: The engines without the bleeders are plumbed to self-bleed. Those with bleeders must be bled, or you will run into air pockets creating issues like overheating the engine and/or lack of heat from your heater core. Also be sure to run the engine with the radiator cap off after first refilling for a while to allow trapped air to escape. I typically do so through one heat cycle of letting the engine get up to temp.
@derrike50: Be sure to change your engine oil and filter after the work also. 5 qts of 5w-30 and a new filter will remove most of the water and any other crud (like gasket pieces, dirt, etc.) that were left in the engine. I'll usually drive around a little (like around the block or so) before I change the oil. That will put all the "fresh garbage" into the old filter that you are about to remove. Plan on taking around 6 hours to do the entire job, especially if you've never done it before.
@derrike50: BTW, as for your confusion as to if you have an exhaust leak or a intake manifold leak, the difference is like night and day. If you aren't sure what the problem really is, have it diagnosed by a shop. It'll be the best $65 bucks (or whatever their diag fee is) that you can spend. Nothing worse than fixing something that ain't broke! Also, if YOU can't figure it out, you probably shouldn't be thinking about doing this repair on your engine yourself. Take it in and get it done. Cheers
@SuperTurboDiesel2 I can repair almost anything on my car and have including the lower intake manifold gasket. I was just fishing for info. from an expert. Thanks.
there isn't a 3100, 3400, or 3500 GM V6 that doesn't make this sound after it has a few miles on it.....it's a shame....they were pretty decent running, smooth pushrod engines too, for their time ( like the early to mid 90's). My old 1990 Beretta GT with the 3.1 V6 ( not 3100 series) NEVER made this noise and i put over 160,000 trouble free miles on it, interesting how they f***ed the engine up like that
@Mrjmoyer78: Replace the intake manifold gaskets as soon as you can, BEFORE the lifters start ticking, use GREEN or Yellow (mixes with all types) antifreeze/coolant, change your engine oil regularly, and you'll likely never have a lifter tick problem. The newer designed Fel-Pro gaskets are different and better than the original plastic trash gaskets that GM used on the assembly line. Nothing like cutting corners to save a few. Doesn't bother corporate, they want you to have to buy a new car! LOL
YOU GUYS DO REALIZE YOU DONT HAVE TO USE DEX COOL, JUST FLUSH IT OUT AND PUT 50/50 PRESTONE IN IT AND IT WILL BE FINE!, THESE ENGINES ARE GOOD STRONG MOTORS, BROTHER HAS 180,000 ON HIS AND THEY BEAT IT FOR 50,000 MILES, AND THE CAR WAS STOLEN AFTER THAN AND BEAT, IT STILL RUNS TODAY WITH NO TICKS OR KNOCKS
@INSANEFREAK1 : I think it's safe to say that you are meaning to say that you should use either regular GREEN ethylene glycol, or the new yellowish "mixes with all types" coolant. You are correct, you absolutely do not have to use DexCool. The "warnings" that GM drummed up about it is/was just a scare tactic that they used to get people to buy that shit. All you have to do is drain and flush your system, and then replace the Dex with regular antifreeze. Believe me, you'll be happy that you did!
@INSANEFREAK1 : I think it's safe to say that you are meaning to say that you should use either regular GREEN ethylene glycol, or the new yellowish "mixes with all types" coolant. You are correct, you absolutely do not have to use DexCool. The "warnings" that GM drummed up about it is/was just a scare tactic that they used to get people to buy that shit. All you have to do is drain and flush your system, and then replace the Dex with regular antifreeze. Believe me, you'll be happy that you did!
its normal nnone of these people actually owned one of these i have one now and it does this a lil in the morning and when it starts to warm up its gone its cause the pistons are a little saller than the block
@wtl1964: Nope, this lifter ticking is NOT "NORMAL" at all. However, it is very "COMMON" problem. There IS a difference. I have OWNED (and still own) several of these turds. They are repairable, as I've stated in previous comments. If you ignore the problem long enough, it will eventually sound like this guys car - Fact.
BTW, the reason this guy's car finally got quieter is that it worked the water out of the lifters and they finally "pumped up" properly, eliminating the excessive gap between the lifters, valves, and camshaft lobes. This occurs when there is only minor amounts of water in the oil. Eventually, the intermixing will get bad enough that it will not work itself out of the lifters, and it'll sound really bad. Not to mention, the cam, crank, and rod bearings will all eventually suffer damage as well.
BTW, I'm 100% correct, and am a 35 y/o certified mechanic. Replace the intake gaskets and all 12 of the hydraulic lifters, along with an oil change and ditch that garbage dex-cool. (Dex-Cool was a huge GM scam/failure.) There, problem solved. I've literally done hundreds of these repairs over the years, and I even own 3 of these V-6's myself (2 - 3.1L's and 1 - 3.4L) ... all with over 160,000+ miles and all are still going strong and are all now quiet as they should be.
Dex-Cool IS an issue. It is corrosive and eats the entire cooling system. Best thing you can do is remove it (by draining an flushing completely) and replacing it with good 'ole green or the new "yellow" mixes with all types coolant. BTW, if you replace the intake manifold gaskets and the hydraulic lifters, along with a new oil change, your horriffic "ticking" sounds will go away. The noise that you hear in this video is caused by the LIFTERS not pumping up properly, due to water in the oil.
@SuperTurboDiesel2 Okay, let's get specific here: Dex-Cool isn't corrosive. Metal (specifically, aluminum) DOES begin a disaster-in-the-making, inevitable corrosive death caused by AIR (which enters any improperly maintained cooling system) and its interaction with Dex-Cool. How many times have you done this repair for any of the millions of people driving GM vehicles with Dex-Cool inside a perfectly functional cooling system? That's what I thought. If it ain't broke, why would you fix it?
@stunner72370: All I can say is pay me now, or pay me a helluva lot more later... LOL But hey, you do as you wish. I'm not telling you what to do, it's your money. What I do know is that if you hang on to your GM product long enough with Dex always in it, it's only a matter of time before we'll see you in the repair shop. Bwahahahahahaaaaa!
Dex-Cool wasn't the issue; the problem was the compound material GM used to make the gaskets in three-hundred trillion or so of those 3400 V6s that leaked Dex-Cool everywhere. I wouldn't buy a used anything with that 3400 V6 because of this one issue. That sort of sucks b/c when it holds onto its fluids, it has some grunt.
@stunner72370 I have a 3.4L 2003 Impala .I replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and it is a great car. GM claims the car is designed to run for 400k miles and I beleive, what puzzles me is what the heck are car manufacturers thinking...they cheapen the whole thing by a gasket that should have copper inside instead of plastic, the 3.8L they have a plastic intake manifold..Some Ford crown vics/mustangs have plastic intake manifolds.GM started back w/metal intakes in 2006
@WWBZT1: Yeah, don't get me wrong, I love the 3.1L, 3.4L, & 3.8L engines. Take care of the intake gasket (and lifters if necessary) issue early, keep the engine oil changed properly, and they are great engines that do seem to run "forever"! Especially here in the rust belt state of NY, where cars never outlast their engines b/c if the engines are worth a damn, the bodies always rot away first, no matter who builds 'em. Manufacturers will keep building 'em cheap as possible, that won't change.
@WWBZT1 My aunt has a 2001 Impala with the same engine; that's how I became aware of the gasket issue. It only took 8 years and 98,000 miles (she doesn't drive much) for the coolant to eat it's way out of her car. When it happened, water leaked out as fast as I could pour it in the radiator. Oddly (I would have told her to skip it), she had bought some kind of warranty somewhere that towed the note for the $700 or so Mr. Goodwrench charged to replace the gasket, etc. Stout engine, though.
This sure as hell wasn't spark knock or wrong octane. The car ran 87 with 1 fill up of 93 per month. As for the dispute the MANUAL says 87 Octane! I still have the manual!!!
The car had the LIM go. Even with regular oil changes and synthetic oil, the LIM failed and let antifreeze into the oil creating an orange mayonnaise under the oil cap. I highly blame dex-cool and the amazing formula to keep running for 150K and eating gaskets. Car is long gone, traded it 2 weeks after this video was shot :)
@Czcrd -- i guess the year of the car matters my 01 lumina say 89 octane minimum and the 3.4 block is the exact same block as my 3.1 according to chevrolet as is the 2.8 only difference is the heads. go buy an intake gasket kit itll tell you as well says right on it for 2.8 3.4 and 3.1 liter engines. and if you got rid of this car why make such lame comments. you obviously have no idea what you are doing.
mine has 225k miles on it and sounds perfect this engine was overheated or run without enough oil or something put another motor in and forget about it
Always keep in mind that the government has a deal with auto makers that everything is to be recycled and the cars are only designed to last a certain amount of time/miles before junking it; if they all lasted like (we the poor working shlubs)want them to because we can't live without them'then nobody would buy a new car and the economy on the auto end would suffer,so don't feel bad if it cost more to fix than its worth its designed to be that way (dam government) their not the working class.
Did you find out what the problem was for this engine? Id really like to know as I have a 2000 grand am that to me sounds the same.. But I only noticed it right after our first snow storm ..
for all you motor heads there those are lifters your hearing...there can be many reasons however for hearing them knock of which you cant tell from a video. Oil pressure, bad seats, bad timing, intake manifold leak, bent push rod, loose retaining nut... the list goes on ... you gotta break out a wrench or two and investigate
i had a '99 alero 3400.. loved the car, had it two years, then one day i noticed the oil looked like cappuccino.. (my intake gasket went bad) so i had a friend from work who owned and worked on gm cars exclusively, replace it for me.. it was fine after that.. i also had the collapsed lifters when it was cold, sounded just like this.. it was a great car, ide buy another, i'm considering a malibu or century with a 3100.. i put 60,000 on my olds, had 170k when i got rid of it, still running strong
@WheresMyXR8 -- callapsed lifters is what this is not piston slap lol use premium gas itll go away. the stay with the oem recomendations of 89 octane fuel it wont happen anymore.
GM designed the engines with smaller pistons than normal. The reason for this is that as the engine approached operating temperature, the pistons expanded to fill the combustion area to a normal piston size. This helped reduce friction, temperatures, and improved fuel economy. The piston slap should go away in under a minute, but it cold weather it make take a bit longer. If it keeps slapping longer than that, then it is another issue. So the piston slapping in these engines isn't always bad.
@silvercoke --- this is lifters callapsing not using the right octane fuel all gm motors say 89 octane read the manual lol. i did and i have 170,000 miles on my 01 lumina no issues yet.
@mysubsbang This is the 3.4L SFI not your 3.1L. The manual states octane 87 for the 3.4L, and not to mention the added Ethanol in the current gas increases the octane rating of regular gas. The piston slap in the 60 Degree V6's is loose fitting pistons that expand as the engine warms up (when the noise goes away). In the cold, the noise is more obvious because the colder the metal, the more it shrinks. Learn about physics before you try to act smart.
@silvercoke -- there both the same block. second i have an 01 lumina and an 01 grand am one has 3.1 the other 3.4 both manuals state the same thing you will get lifter ping which sounds like this if using anything less than 89 octane prolonged and it gets nasty bad like this engine right here. been there done that. i am also a novice ase tech. have gotten the same info from all the old farts. this could be different may not be dont know till its tried.
well i think there good moter i had one with 134,000 and beat on it like a red headed step child and i never herd noises like that the head gasket evenually went tho but wasnt a supprise the only think that pissed me off was the damn lower intake gasket p.s. the think is still going we sold it and they fixed the head gasket and hasnt had a problem since
have u tried having the fuel injectors cleaned and replacing the spark plugs and wires? i recommend buying fuel injector cleaner and pouring it in the gas tank, then see if it still makes that noise... trust me, i had a similar noise in my astro van until i had the fuel injectors cleaned out, hope this helps ^_^
People think piston slap is non existant, my friends 2001 malibu makes this sound 24/7 and has attempted everything to stop it. The only time I got it to stop was when I drifted his car WOT in a field for 5 minutes straight. The piston expanded enough to conform to the shape of the wall. Engines with less kilomters/miles just have less piston wear so it goes away faster. Just for all the non believers, down the road from now, that sound is permenant.
Its called lifter slap. the 3100 engins from gm were known for this even brand new off the lot. just a flaw. just make sure you let your car warm up a little bit before you tromp on it.
it's true, but it could also be loose plugs, that was the problem on mine and i re-plugged them all in and cleaned them and it shut her up. Also, try put synthetic oil, it makes it a little more silent.
a preconditioned knock is what my gm dealer told me, they said that these engines cause of thier small size were designed to have to have a knock of the start, because the engine uses expansion and contraction technologies on warm up, at 3:02 i precisely here the preconditioned knock, it will go away and take more time to go away according to temp, there another noise that has my attention, the grinding sound that goes faster and slower, and stops , thats wierd,
really eh? wow that's really interesting to know. that makes sense then because i notice that with almost every engine like ours you can hear that noise. i don't think i have that other sound, but one strange thing is my service engine light keeps coming on even though there isnt anything wrong.
I have the same engine on my 2000 grand am gt and i thought i would be cool in front of the ladys and race my car then next thing you know my engine is shooting oil nd then engine now knocks
Yeah I fixed it by trading that $hit in and buying a Honda! The problem was 99% the Lower Intake Manifold gasket (LIM) which is a common problem with this GM engine. So for anyone using Dex-cool watch out, it eats gaskets and such!
yeah that was a common problem with that engine, thats obviously not "piston slap" either. anybody who knows anything about 60*v6 gm's know to change the LIM and theyll last forever. got 220k miles on mine and counting..good luck with the pos honda tho
i wasnt "bitching" about anything. and youre a moron. does filing for bankruptcy really make that much of a difference??
do you know that at this rate other car companies will eventually follow, import sales are dropping too . but u probly wouldnt even notice you fad following MORON. i bet u voted for obama like all the other mindless fad followers HAHA
pfft...lmao....you are such a fag...enjoy your piece of dogshit GM...and there is a diff between bankruptcy and sales drop's you inbred prick ...go fuck a goat...im sure your accustomed to it anyway loser
oooh yea! cuz ya know SOO much about me. that was a SUPER comeback!... and i will enjoy my "piece of dogshit GM' for ANOTHER 200k miles. Czcrd enjoy the civic they are good cars, jk bout the pos thing. the civics made with problems was the crx. i love the styling on the new ones tho.
@Czcrd -- this is the lifters being callapsed use premium gas for a week 93 octane then use the oem recomended fuel rating of 89 read your manual it states it plain and simple lol. my lumina 2001 3.1 motor has had no issues at all i have 170,000 miles no problems well besides the gas cap bs lol.
@Czcrd Stay away from the factory plastic intake gaskets and get a good flex-pro metal one. Takes about 6 hours to put in if you do it right, but you won't have that problem again.
@Czcrd -- no its usualy the valleys that start leaking unless you used the cheap plastik gasket set to repair it. oh wait you think you know everything so you will just say im wrong but i just had mine fixed for the same reason. and the dexcool of today is not to big of a deal. i havnt had an issue and its been in the car since it was bought in 01.
@mysubsbang Why you gotta bust chops man??? I never said I know everything and neither have I said that you are wrong. I was simply stating that the fuel used was not an issue on this car according to my manual, answering to some confusion on the correct fuel grade. At the time I thought long and hard whether to repair this, but a more viable option came around in purchasing a new and thus more reliable vehicle. As for the dexcool, some swear by it and others stay away from it. To each his own.
@Czcrd hi there i know this video is old but i have to shed some light. i am a 9 year GM grand master techinician who knows this car back and front. granted the lower intake manifold gaskets are bad for this vehcile, i dont think that it is the dex cool that is the problem, rather it is the gaskets, the plastic does not las tin this coolant. gm replaced the gaskets with updated materials to prevent the problems. the piston slap id sue to another issue with the pistons.
@Czcrd there is nothing wrong with Dexcool , it was what the LIM gaskets were made of, they had plastic in the middle of the gasket...Fel-Pro has copper....if it was the dexcool , same type of coolant is in the Honda.
@WWBZT1: Sorry, but you're wrong. It has been proven that DexCool become extremely caustic with time. Eventually, it eats through poorer quality gasket materials, as well as erodes aluminum and make certain plastics weak and brittle. Do your research before you talk out of your ass. Additonally, I have fixed many vehicles with DexCool in them that have required eventual replacement of nearly every cooling system component in the system. The common "thread" to all of these issues? Always DexCool.
@SuperTurboDiesel2 OK educate me, where do you get your information from about Dex-cool. BTW it's a real shame U can't see what finger I am holding up. Dex-cool is ethylene glycol. Havoline makes it for GM. Ethylene glycol is nothing new, it's been around for 50 or 60 years. Dex-cool has 2-eha that has been known to soften plastic., GM made a few bad choices with gasket material. Most modern anti freeze is ethylene glycol. a lot of coolant damage is from owner neglect.
@WWBZT1: What is a shame is know-it-alls like you that act like babies. You know where you can stick that finger, buddy. My information is from real-world experience. Nobody ever said that DexCool wasn't ethylene glycol. That isn't the issue here at all. It's the additives in DexCool that make it soften plastics and other materials, as well as the fact that as the coolant ages, its acidity increases dramatically, thereby literally "eating" away at the entire cooling system as time progresses.
@WWBZT1: BTW, I'm not saying you are entirely wrong, because you aren't. It's a well known fact that most automotive problems pertaining to the cooling system come from owner's failure of proper maintenence. HOWEVER, this problem would never have existed if DexCool wasn't used. Those crappy plastic gaskets GM chose to use do work with the use of the time-tested and proven standard GREEN coolant. Virtually nobody follows the recommendations of replacing coolant every 3 years or 60,000 miles.
@WWBZT1: The "benefit" of DexCool being a 5 year or 100,000 (supposedly) mile coolant does NOT outweigh the major expense of replacing the entire cooling system piece by piece, (including gaskets & lifters) that come in contact with the stuff over time. I've fixed (& owned) many GM's over the years. I will never run that crap in any of my vehicles again. Problems occured with every one of them that came with Dex Cool in it. Once fixed and gone back to green, never a cooling system problem again.
@SuperTurboDiesel2 Sorry I see things differently. I run Dex-cool in all my GM products. Have never had an issue, every 5 years empty, flush, fill with dex-cool and purified water ( 59 cents a gallon). Please tell me why you have to replace the hydraulic lifters. If you are really paranoid about acidic coolant you can always get ltnese PH test strips to test. Not going back to the green stuff...my time is toooo valuable to change the coolant every year.
@WWBZT1: Ok, it's pretty clear YOU just DON'T GET IT. So, let me spell it out for you. I'm not paranoid about anything. I'm well aware of how to use litmus paper to test for acidity, and I'm also aware that you can add SCA's to increase the life of your coolant. (It's a widely used practice in the maintenance of off-road construction as well as heavy-duty road vehicles.) You have to replace lifters because the damned DexCool has eaten through the intake gaskets and gotten into the engine oil...
SCA (Supplement Coolant Additives) or DCA4, isn't really to increase the life of the coolant..... one of it's most important uses is to prevent Cavitation of the cylinder wall linings. A big thing in most Diesel engines especially in older Ford 7.3L Diesels, as the cylinder walls are to thin, and the walls expend on the power stroke of the piston, and it forces coolant in to eachother, and forms little bubbles on the cylinder walls, and when those bubbles pop, they eat metal.
@IDIDieselJohn: Thanks, I already know about cavitation in diesels. I studied it in college years ago, and have also rebuilt several engines over the years that were victims of it. Cavitation is caused by piston slap harmonics, which creates a micronic cylinder liner wall expansion and contraction, forming little bubbles that bore through sleeves on wet sleeved engines. A side benefit of DCA4 is that it increases the useful life of coolant, by adding a protective layer within a cooling system.
@IDIDieselJohn: You were reading a little too far into the point I was trying to make. Anyhow, we are both basically correct. BTW, the bubbles actually implode, not "pop" (aka: explode), and the DCA4 converts the existing steel & rust that is present within any cooling system / engine into a hardened layer that helps to prevent cavitation. :-)
@SuperTurboDiesel2 You still have not shown me a study that has proven w/o a doubt that Dex-cool gets acidic...so does oil if you leave it in an engine crankcase long enough. Seems like this is your opinion and that is just what it is an opinion. BTW if the lifters are that bad, the main bearings are gone too..probably the whole lower end. That is why it is good the check under your hood every fill up ...or every other fill up. Before the engine just quits running.
@WWBZT1: My life experiences is all the study I need, to deem DexCool crap. I've yet to see a bottom end go bad from one of these intake failures, but I'm sure it has happened, just not to me - yet. Clearly, it's likely that ALL of the oil-lubed wear surfaces will be negatively affected by coolant being in the oil. If the contamination is minor enough by keeping the engine oil changed regularly, it only really affects the weakest link first, which just happens to be the lifters in these engines.
@WWBZT1: ... thus, screwing up the engine oil by blending with the leaked coolant and causing the lifters to sustain irrepairable damage. The need to replace the lifters comes from the necessity for them to "pump-up" properly and work again. (Perhaps you don't understand how a hydraulic lifter works?!) Yes, sometimes you can "flush or clean" them and salvage them. The lifters MAY properly function again if they haven't been failing for a sustained amount of time from the water mixed in the oil.
@WWBZT1: ... Yes, sometimes you can replace only SOME of the lifters. But, if I'm into an engine doing semi-major work, especially that which is labor-intensive, I'm not going to "penny-pinch" now and then pay for it again later, when one or more of the lifters that were not replaced the first time around fails a little while later. It's called risk management. If you change your coolant every year, you are a wasteful fool. Nobody ever said or suggested that, so no idea where you got that from!
@SuperTurboDiesel2 I am sure if Dex-cool was a major issue like you claim, GM would not use it ...and I am thinking the cars you see get lumped into the catagory of the people that also never change their oil till their engine fails...coolant...oil got to change it when the manufacturer says to....very sad how people treat their cars.
@WWBZT1: I call bullshit. You clearly don't understand economics. GM has a poor product (DexCool) that they put into their cars. It has created problems with every vehicle's cooling system that it has ever been put into. However, the components affected typically last well outside the initial warranty period, so the manufacturer just doesn't care. In fact, DexCool HELPS by destroying the cars sooner so that GM can sell more. Manufacturers build cars to have a "useful-life" of approx. 10 years.
@WWBZT1: ...not to mention, if GM DID acknowledge that the DexCool was at fault, could you imagine the lawsuits? They'd be out of business so fast, it would make your head spin! So, they defend the crap, they work with the gasket manufacturers to make different seals and gaskets that will be more agreeable with the DexCool, and they continue to use it. Well, good for them, but NOT ME. I will NEVER put DexCool in any vehicle ever again, and I will continue to educate others to do the same.
@WWBZT1: Wanna know something else? We've "abused" lots of farm equipment and cars and trucks and such for decades, by not changing the GREEN coolant like we should. Know why? Cost, time, and well... lazyness. Is is smart, no. Does it matter in the grand scheme of things? Nope. Know why? Because when a common failure item such as a water pump, thermostat, hose, or a radiator fails, the vehicle gets all new coolant. Typically, that only happens ONCE during the life of the vehicle.
@WWBZT1: We have some tractors and heavy duty trucks that have had the same coolant in them for the past 10+ years. No problems. In fact, on occassion, we dump a bottle of SCA's (Supplemental Coolant Additive) into the radiator. That's all that's needed to keep the cooling/heating system functioning properly. Same goes for my personal vehicles, however, those damned things do seem to have a higher rate of part failure due to inferiorly manufactured components that are used on modern autos.
@WWBZT1: One final word, and them I'm done with this topic. My wife's car used to be a 1998 Olds Achieva. It had the infamous 3.1L with the DexCool and intake gasket problem. It began minorly "lifter-ticking" around 60,000 miles and was well out of the manufacturer's warranty. Well, we kept driving it, as the ticking would go away and was rarely noticeable. DexCool was changed out at 100,000 miles.
@WWBZT1: ... Somewhere around 120,000, the water pump blew its seal. Next, the radiator cracked. After that, the heater core EXPLODED when the inlet nipple broke off for no reason. I literally had to replace every major cooling system component on the car. I put DexCool back in. Around 130,000 the lifter ticking started to get worse. I did the intake gaskets and lifters. I drained all the DexCool out, flushed the system, and put in the good 'ol tried and true GREEN coolant and never looked back.
@WWBZT1: ...Car had over 200,000 on it & was wrecked. Car sat for about 4 years with occasional rips around my property to keep it going. Engine was finally pulled from the Achieva and was put into a Grand Am. Put GREEN coolant in it again. Still no problems, and it's been going strong for about 2 years now. That experience plus the HUNDREDS of cars that I've fixed for customers leads me to the conclusion that I'll never use DexCool again. You are free to do what you want, as am I. Good luck.
@davidgggggggg -- not necessarily depends on where its leaking mine has been leaking for almost 2 years out of the valleys no water in oil at all also no oil in water. just leaks and evaps from the motor.
I worked on a Dodge Intrepid that made this sound. The piston rod had snapped. It was just grinding it into the block, digging through everything and leaving shards of metal in the oil pan. Lift the car up and take off the oil pan, look up into the block and see if everything looks right. I wouldnt run it for too long or you might lose it. Spare yourself some money and dont drive it around, for the sake of the engine.
hey my ranger done this for a while i thought the pistons were slapping but they wasnt push rods were bent and the rockers were off bad so i did a rebuild and now she runs awe some 134 thousand miles too
it can be 2 things, one its a rocker getting ready to snap or one of your coil packs is not firing correctly, to me i think its a rocker only because once the oil gets heated and fills the top of the motor it seems to dull down.
This is not a piston slap, sounds like valve ifters. Piston slap is a deeper sound on some engines the same on warm engine, sometimes even worser on warm engine.
Well on the fact that I don't own the car for close to 9 months now, but I If did I would've had it fixed in every way :) Thanks y'all. Got a brand new 2008 Civic.
To answer any questions, the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket (LIM) failed and leaked coolant into the crankcase. Orange mayonnaise under the oil cap and sticky gunk on dipstick. Flushing the engine was a last ditch effort. I noticed the coolant getting low, but I found what I thought was a source of the leak so I wasn't worried.
That happened to mine, but I lucked out. My low coolant light came on, so the next day I took it to the shop and got ALL the intake gaskets replaced. By catching it so early, I spared my engine from certain death. =D Now my Grand Am GT is at 101k and still running strong!!!
sounds like a valve lifter to me or whayever you call them in english (its a part that goes enbetween the camshaft and the valve...) and it take a while for it to fill up with oil so its making noise till it fills up... could be becouse it broke or bad oil pressure or the hole where the oil goes troug is dirty.. just replace with new lifters and all good
wow...your car is pretty temperamental when first cranked up. Does it do this on first start of the day, or just everytime you crank it up? cuz i could under stand if it was first start because your block has lost all of its heat and the aluminiun pistons have shrunk.
or my other diagnosis is when you mentioned that you "flushed" your engine. that just screams key oil passage block, because you released a chung or sludge that was to much to be dissolved.
wow...your car is pretty temperamental when first cranked up. Does it do this on first start of the day, or just everytime you crank it up? cuz i could under stand if it was first start because your block has lost all of its heat and the aluminiun pistons have shrunk.
or my other diagnosis is when you mentioned that you "flushed" your engine. that just screams key oil passage block, because you released a chung or sludge that was to much to be dissolved.
Hey man...check out my video. I have a 3.4 Pontiac Grand Am, and my sound seems like its the same as yours...I tried Sea Foam, and that didnt work (not like I expected it to work anyways).
The lower intake gasket probably failed and washed out the lifter valley. Sounds to me like the lifters are screwed up. Gm has a lot of models with this problem. That dexcool is shit. Never buy a vehicle that uses it.
Actually, it's not the Dexcool. It's the fact that the intake gaskets were poorly designed in 3100's, 3400's, and 3800's. Once you replace them once, you are good to go.
The 3400's are quite the troublemakers though. They are infamous for problams.
Actually, It is the Dexcool and not the gasket. Do some research. The chemicals added to dexcool to make it last 100,000 miles are plastisizers. They eat through plastic and rubber. Hence why the gasket deteriorates. Dexcool also causes a brown sludge when it comes in contact with oxygen. There is a class action lawsuit against GM because of dexcool, not the gaskets.
It may also be loose rocker arms, bc same thing happened on mine and that prolly the most common noise with the 3.4L just tighten them to 168in-lbs and then rotate the nut another 30 degrees i believe and see if that does the job
The 3.1 3.4L engines were shit. there is actually a web page how to sue GM over these piston slaping pieces of shit. it all so includes most GM engines currently made. it also includes a class action law suit going on to sue GM right now so if you own a 3.1, 3.4, 4.3, and various other v8's google search it and sue them. Before they go bankrupt lol.. wish i could post the web page but You tube will not let you !
The sound is a lack of oil in the top end of the motor. Once the motor gets warm, the hotter oil gets into the valvetrain. This will get worse, louder, and last longer over time. Get some Lucas Oil oil treatment and it will go away.
your an idiot for ever recommending an oil treatment to fix an engine problem. the piston stops slapping because it expands and the tollerances between the wall and the skirt gets tighter. lucas oil....shit might as well just poor honey in it and see if that quiets it down
any kind of piston slap should go away within 30 seconds of starting the car. and usually makes it sound obnoxious like a diesel. i had the same problem with my 3.1 in my malibu. and just as yours does it went away in a couple minutes. i believe this is sticky valves/lifters causing the clicking sounds. i bought some rislone from auto zone and used it in place of a quart of oil on my next change and the sound went away and never came back. my car has 116,000 miles on it.
There are probably going to be a lot of GM fagboys going around here making up excuses about Piston Slap. Ignore it. Get rid of your GM product and you will no longer be cursed.
that noise is NORMAL In that engine.. cold start produces that noise,,, When engine is heat noise reduces.... Piston grow up and cleareance between piston and cylinder decrease......DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT.
HEDONISTA65 2 days ago
@HEDONISTA65 you say dont worry about it, but i live in new york, so the weather is starting to warm up. i got my 3.4l alero in the summer and it never sounded like that. i noticed it more once november hit, now were going into march, the spring and its getting louder and louder. still dont worry about it?
newrosupcomingsi 21 hours ago
clean the top of the pistons off. Crabon build up. There is less than .020 clearance between the head and pistons. A little bit of carbon and it nocks cold. Warms up and the clearance increase a bit.
bigblockcutlass123 1 month ago
@bigblockcutlass123 is there a way to clean out the build up?
newrosupcomingsi 21 hours ago
If you have trouble getting the cooling system up to regular operating temp, put the cap on and take it for a quick spin up the road and back - it'll get there. Just be really careful when taking off the hot cap when you return, or you'll get a hot coolant bath! You can do it with or without the engine running. Put a couple of rags on the cap and turn it slowly to the 1st detent. It will puke a bunch of hot coolant and air out. You will have to likely refill some of what gets pushed out.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
Definitely something wrong with it...
PkerMechanic 1 month ago
@PkerMechanic: LOL, great response. Thanks "Captain Obvious" - LMAO! Peace out bro...
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 Sometimes, ya gotta keep it simple hahaha
PkerMechanic 1 month ago
Sorry, but I'm 100% right on this. I'm a professional technician and have fixed HUNDREDS of these GM's. The noise you are hearing is lifter tick, NOT piston slap! Most of you wouldn't know piston slap if it slapped you upside the head! Piston slap makes little to no noteable noise at higher RPM's, and at low RPM's it makes the engine sound very "diesel-like". Lifter tick is a super common GM problem caused by coolant getting into the engine oil, typically caused by bad intake manifold gaskets.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 How do you fix the lifter tick? My sounds like this I thought it was a lifter, but later I though it might have been and exhaust leak. What do you think?
derrike50 1 month ago
@derrike50: It requires removing the intake manifolds (both the upper and lower) and replacing the hydraulic lifters, as well as the intake manifold gaskets. Buy the Fel-Pro ones. From my perspective, they are a little pricey, but worth it. You can get the complete "top-end" kit, or just cheap out and buy 'em piece by piece, so to speak. Typically, you can buy just an intake manifold kit and be ok. The complete top-end kit comes with the head gaskets, and you shouldn't need to go that far.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@derrike50: Use a fresh 50/50 mix of GREEN (or yellow) coolant when you refill your cooling system. Also be sure to bleed the air from the air bleeders, if your engine has them. Earlier 3.1L and 3.4L's had bleeders & later production ones didn't. If your car has air bleeders, one will be located on the passenger's side of the vehicle, in the line that comes straight up out of the water pump (on the top), and the other will be on the opposite (driver's) side, in the top of the thermostat housing.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@derrike50: The engines without the bleeders are plumbed to self-bleed. Those with bleeders must be bled, or you will run into air pockets creating issues like overheating the engine and/or lack of heat from your heater core. Also be sure to run the engine with the radiator cap off after first refilling for a while to allow trapped air to escape. I typically do so through one heat cycle of letting the engine get up to temp.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@derrike50: Be sure to change your engine oil and filter after the work also. 5 qts of 5w-30 and a new filter will remove most of the water and any other crud (like gasket pieces, dirt, etc.) that were left in the engine. I'll usually drive around a little (like around the block or so) before I change the oil. That will put all the "fresh garbage" into the old filter that you are about to remove. Plan on taking around 6 hours to do the entire job, especially if you've never done it before.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@derrike50: BTW, as for your confusion as to if you have an exhaust leak or a intake manifold leak, the difference is like night and day. If you aren't sure what the problem really is, have it diagnosed by a shop. It'll be the best $65 bucks (or whatever their diag fee is) that you can spend. Nothing worse than fixing something that ain't broke! Also, if YOU can't figure it out, you probably shouldn't be thinking about doing this repair on your engine yourself. Take it in and get it done. Cheers
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 I can repair almost anything on my car and have including the lower intake manifold gasket. I was just fishing for info. from an expert. Thanks.
aluczaj2 1 month ago
its diesel jajajajajajajaja GM sucks
umcompaq 2 months ago
there isn't a 3100, 3400, or 3500 GM V6 that doesn't make this sound after it has a few miles on it.....it's a shame....they were pretty decent running, smooth pushrod engines too, for their time ( like the early to mid 90's). My old 1990 Beretta GT with the 3.1 V6 ( not 3100 series) NEVER made this noise and i put over 160,000 trouble free miles on it, interesting how they f***ed the engine up like that
Mrjmoyer78 2 months ago
@Mrjmoyer78: Replace the intake manifold gaskets as soon as you can, BEFORE the lifters start ticking, use GREEN or Yellow (mixes with all types) antifreeze/coolant, change your engine oil regularly, and you'll likely never have a lifter tick problem. The newer designed Fel-Pro gaskets are different and better than the original plastic trash gaskets that GM used on the assembly line. Nothing like cutting corners to save a few. Doesn't bother corporate, they want you to have to buy a new car! LOL
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
YOU GUYS DO REALIZE YOU DONT HAVE TO USE DEX COOL, JUST FLUSH IT OUT AND PUT 50/50 PRESTONE IN IT AND IT WILL BE FINE!, THESE ENGINES ARE GOOD STRONG MOTORS, BROTHER HAS 180,000 ON HIS AND THEY BEAT IT FOR 50,000 MILES, AND THE CAR WAS STOLEN AFTER THAN AND BEAT, IT STILL RUNS TODAY WITH NO TICKS OR KNOCKS
INSANEFREAK1 2 months ago
@INSANEFREAK1 : I think it's safe to say that you are meaning to say that you should use either regular GREEN ethylene glycol, or the new yellowish "mixes with all types" coolant. You are correct, you absolutely do not have to use DexCool. The "warnings" that GM drummed up about it is/was just a scare tactic that they used to get people to buy that shit. All you have to do is drain and flush your system, and then replace the Dex with regular antifreeze. Believe me, you'll be happy that you did!
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 exactly my point
INSANEFREAK1 1 month ago
@INSANEFREAK1 : I think it's safe to say that you are meaning to say that you should use either regular GREEN ethylene glycol, or the new yellowish "mixes with all types" coolant. You are correct, you absolutely do not have to use DexCool. The "warnings" that GM drummed up about it is/was just a scare tactic that they used to get people to buy that shit. All you have to do is drain and flush your system, and then replace the Dex with regular antifreeze. Believe me, you'll be happy that you did!
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
its normal nnone of these people actually owned one of these i have one now and it does this a lil in the morning and when it starts to warm up its gone its cause the pistons are a little saller than the block
wtl1964 3 months ago
@wtl1964: Nope, this lifter ticking is NOT "NORMAL" at all. However, it is very "COMMON" problem. There IS a difference. I have OWNED (and still own) several of these turds. They are repairable, as I've stated in previous comments. If you ignore the problem long enough, it will eventually sound like this guys car - Fact.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
3.4 is chevy pile of crap
Crunchbros 3 months ago
BTW, the reason this guy's car finally got quieter is that it worked the water out of the lifters and they finally "pumped up" properly, eliminating the excessive gap between the lifters, valves, and camshaft lobes. This occurs when there is only minor amounts of water in the oil. Eventually, the intermixing will get bad enough that it will not work itself out of the lifters, and it'll sound really bad. Not to mention, the cam, crank, and rod bearings will all eventually suffer damage as well.
SuperTurboDiesel2 5 months ago
BTW, I'm 100% correct, and am a 35 y/o certified mechanic. Replace the intake gaskets and all 12 of the hydraulic lifters, along with an oil change and ditch that garbage dex-cool. (Dex-Cool was a huge GM scam/failure.) There, problem solved. I've literally done hundreds of these repairs over the years, and I even own 3 of these V-6's myself (2 - 3.1L's and 1 - 3.4L) ... all with over 160,000+ miles and all are still going strong and are all now quiet as they should be.
SuperTurboDiesel2 5 months ago
Dex-Cool IS an issue. It is corrosive and eats the entire cooling system. Best thing you can do is remove it (by draining an flushing completely) and replacing it with good 'ole green or the new "yellow" mixes with all types coolant. BTW, if you replace the intake manifold gaskets and the hydraulic lifters, along with a new oil change, your horriffic "ticking" sounds will go away. The noise that you hear in this video is caused by the LIFTERS not pumping up properly, due to water in the oil.
SuperTurboDiesel2 5 months ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 Okay, let's get specific here: Dex-Cool isn't corrosive. Metal (specifically, aluminum) DOES begin a disaster-in-the-making, inevitable corrosive death caused by AIR (which enters any improperly maintained cooling system) and its interaction with Dex-Cool. How many times have you done this repair for any of the millions of people driving GM vehicles with Dex-Cool inside a perfectly functional cooling system? That's what I thought. If it ain't broke, why would you fix it?
stunner72370 1 month ago
@stunner72370: All I can say is pay me now, or pay me a helluva lot more later... LOL But hey, you do as you wish. I'm not telling you what to do, it's your money. What I do know is that if you hang on to your GM product long enough with Dex always in it, it's only a matter of time before we'll see you in the repair shop. Bwahahahahahaaaaa!
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
Dex-Cool wasn't the issue; the problem was the compound material GM used to make the gaskets in three-hundred trillion or so of those 3400 V6s that leaked Dex-Cool everywhere. I wouldn't buy a used anything with that 3400 V6 because of this one issue. That sort of sucks b/c when it holds onto its fluids, it has some grunt.
stunner72370 5 months ago
@stunner72370 I have a 3.4L 2003 Impala .I replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and it is a great car. GM claims the car is designed to run for 400k miles and I beleive, what puzzles me is what the heck are car manufacturers thinking...they cheapen the whole thing by a gasket that should have copper inside instead of plastic, the 3.8L they have a plastic intake manifold..Some Ford crown vics/mustangs have plastic intake manifolds.GM started back w/metal intakes in 2006
WWBZT1 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: Yeah, don't get me wrong, I love the 3.1L, 3.4L, & 3.8L engines. Take care of the intake gasket (and lifters if necessary) issue early, keep the engine oil changed properly, and they are great engines that do seem to run "forever"! Especially here in the rust belt state of NY, where cars never outlast their engines b/c if the engines are worth a damn, the bodies always rot away first, no matter who builds 'em. Manufacturers will keep building 'em cheap as possible, that won't change.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1 My aunt has a 2001 Impala with the same engine; that's how I became aware of the gasket issue. It only took 8 years and 98,000 miles (she doesn't drive much) for the coolant to eat it's way out of her car. When it happened, water leaked out as fast as I could pour it in the radiator. Oddly (I would have told her to skip it), she had bought some kind of warranty somewhere that towed the note for the $700 or so Mr. Goodwrench charged to replace the gasket, etc. Stout engine, though.
stunner72370 1 month ago
lifter issues... had them done twice on my 3.1
and if your gonna tear down the engine for that, mies well replace the intake gasket as i have twice also. strong motors just lots of issues
mifan93 7 months ago
Rod bearings
dirtbikemike69 8 months ago
@dirtbikemike69: LOL! You couldn't be more WRONG. LOL!
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 LOLOLOLOLOLOLOOLOLOLOLOLLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
dirtbikemike69 1 month ago
spark knock
MyKitt2000 11 months ago
This sure as hell wasn't spark knock or wrong octane. The car ran 87 with 1 fill up of 93 per month. As for the dispute the MANUAL says 87 Octane! I still have the manual!!!
The car had the LIM go. Even with regular oil changes and synthetic oil, the LIM failed and let antifreeze into the oil creating an orange mayonnaise under the oil cap. I highly blame dex-cool and the amazing formula to keep running for 150K and eating gaskets. Car is long gone, traded it 2 weeks after this video was shot :)
Czcrd 1 year ago
@Czcrd -- i guess the year of the car matters my 01 lumina say 89 octane minimum and the 3.4 block is the exact same block as my 3.1 according to chevrolet as is the 2.8 only difference is the heads. go buy an intake gasket kit itll tell you as well says right on it for 2.8 3.4 and 3.1 liter engines. and if you got rid of this car why make such lame comments. you obviously have no idea what you are doing.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
mine has 225k miles on it and sounds perfect this engine was overheated or run without enough oil or something put another motor in and forget about it
whitebread8381 1 year ago
Always keep in mind that the government has a deal with auto makers that everything is to be recycled and the cars are only designed to last a certain amount of time/miles before junking it; if they all lasted like (we the poor working shlubs)want them to because we can't live without them'then nobody would buy a new car and the economy on the auto end would suffer,so don't feel bad if it cost more to fix than its worth its designed to be that way (dam government) their not the working class.
mrchopperking1 1 year ago
@mrchopperking1 -- this is so very true.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
Did you find out what the problem was for this engine? Id really like to know as I have a 2000 grand am that to me sounds the same.. But I only noticed it right after our first snow storm ..
LPU4LIFE7 1 year ago
for all you motor heads there those are lifters your hearing...there can be many reasons however for hearing them knock of which you cant tell from a video. Oil pressure, bad seats, bad timing, intake manifold leak, bent push rod, loose retaining nut... the list goes on ... you gotta break out a wrench or two and investigate
ASE ~~
smoothskiing2000 1 year ago
i had a '99 alero 3400.. loved the car, had it two years, then one day i noticed the oil looked like cappuccino.. (my intake gasket went bad) so i had a friend from work who owned and worked on gm cars exclusively, replace it for me.. it was fine after that.. i also had the collapsed lifters when it was cold, sounded just like this.. it was a great car, ide buy another, i'm considering a malibu or century with a 3100.. i put 60,000 on my olds, had 170k when i got rid of it, still running strong
WheresMyXR8 1 year ago
@WheresMyXR8 -- callapsed lifters is what this is not piston slap lol use premium gas itll go away. the stay with the oem recomendations of 89 octane fuel it wont happen anymore.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
GM designed the engines with smaller pistons than normal. The reason for this is that as the engine approached operating temperature, the pistons expanded to fill the combustion area to a normal piston size. This helped reduce friction, temperatures, and improved fuel economy. The piston slap should go away in under a minute, but it cold weather it make take a bit longer. If it keeps slapping longer than that, then it is another issue. So the piston slapping in these engines isn't always bad.
silvercoke 1 year ago
@silvercoke --- this is lifters callapsing not using the right octane fuel all gm motors say 89 octane read the manual lol. i did and i have 170,000 miles on my 01 lumina no issues yet.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
@mysubsbang This is the 3.4L SFI not your 3.1L. The manual states octane 87 for the 3.4L, and not to mention the added Ethanol in the current gas increases the octane rating of regular gas. The piston slap in the 60 Degree V6's is loose fitting pistons that expand as the engine warms up (when the noise goes away). In the cold, the noise is more obvious because the colder the metal, the more it shrinks. Learn about physics before you try to act smart.
silvercoke 1 year ago
@silvercoke -- there both the same block. second i have an 01 lumina and an 01 grand am one has 3.1 the other 3.4 both manuals state the same thing you will get lifter ping which sounds like this if using anything less than 89 octane prolonged and it gets nasty bad like this engine right here. been there done that. i am also a novice ase tech. have gotten the same info from all the old farts. this could be different may not be dont know till its tried.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
if it is piston slap all you can really do is get the block bored out to the next available size(+10 thou) get some new pistons
the slap happend cause the bore is too big due to wear of the piston when it stops the metal has expanded enough to fill the gap
stueyrandall 1 year ago
well i think there good moter i had one with 134,000 and beat on it like a red headed step child and i never herd noises like that the head gasket evenually went tho but wasnt a supprise the only think that pissed me off was the damn lower intake gasket p.s. the think is still going we sold it and they fixed the head gasket and hasnt had a problem since
corekid420 1 year ago
have u tried having the fuel injectors cleaned and replacing the spark plugs and wires? i recommend buying fuel injector cleaner and pouring it in the gas tank, then see if it still makes that noise... trust me, i had a similar noise in my astro van until i had the fuel injectors cleaned out, hope this helps ^_^
jonyrock 1 year ago
Whenever a knock just goes away, it's lifters.
mstreamer9991 1 year ago
im lookin for a motor for my alero.but it cost too much to fix it so rather try it myself.if theirs any vids showin how to do it plz let me know
caliberjo 1 year ago
People think piston slap is non existant, my friends 2001 malibu makes this sound 24/7 and has attempted everything to stop it. The only time I got it to stop was when I drifted his car WOT in a field for 5 minutes straight. The piston expanded enough to conform to the shape of the wall. Engines with less kilomters/miles just have less piston wear so it goes away faster. Just for all the non believers, down the road from now, that sound is permenant.
YoungGeekGuy 2 years ago
Its called lifter slap. the 3100 engins from gm were known for this even brand new off the lot. just a flaw. just make sure you let your car warm up a little bit before you tromp on it.
luciffer420 2 years ago
like everybody is sayin, lifters.nbd....but it also sounds like somethin is flying around in your intake. idk
kercha08 2 years ago
Good old Garbage Motors.... built this motor with excessive piston to cylinder clearances..........Now they are Obama Motors...........
waterfordjim 2 years ago
they all do that when they worm up it will go away in like 5 to 10 min ant nothing to worry about
GrandAmGT1990 2 years ago
it's true, but it could also be loose plugs, that was the problem on mine and i re-plugged them all in and cleaned them and it shut her up. Also, try put synthetic oil, it makes it a little more silent.
Ask more if needed bud :D
BoxerMuscleMilk 2 years ago
I have the same noise in my 3.4 but it's much quiter than this. but ya, it's lifter noises, i don't think it's a big deal.
Electra72 2 years ago
a preconditioned knock is what my gm dealer told me, they said that these engines cause of thier small size were designed to have to have a knock of the start, because the engine uses expansion and contraction technologies on warm up, at 3:02 i precisely here the preconditioned knock, it will go away and take more time to go away according to temp, there another noise that has my attention, the grinding sound that goes faster and slower, and stops , thats wierd,
nomosis3 2 years ago
really eh? wow that's really interesting to know. that makes sense then because i notice that with almost every engine like ours you can hear that noise. i don't think i have that other sound, but one strange thing is my service engine light keeps coming on even though there isnt anything wrong.
Electra72 2 years ago
that could be an evap solenoid not working correctly or your secondary air canister needs cleaned.
kercha08 2 years ago
Lifters..
nctrooper10722001 2 years ago
thats all lifters put some lucas in it it will be less noticeable
03grandgtramair 2 years ago
its the lifters and make sure that you use 5w-30 oil
cowboysfootball101 2 years ago
they all do that thow it will go away when it worms up
GrandAmGT1990 2 years ago
ooo shit that would be your rod
GrandAmGT1990 2 years ago
camshaft
chazm1922 2 years ago
Lifters (rocker arms) become quiet when they pressurize with oil, upon start-up.
They should quiet almost immediately.
If not, lash may be excessive.
Provided it's a pushrod engine.
If using synthetic oil on a pushrod engine
the lifters (rockers) are noisy unless you add Lucas oil treatment.
Synthetic seems to have a lower pressure, but works great.
As in, 1 oil change/year.
A turbo-luber could easily double the life of the engine, if that's what people want.
Destruction seems ro rule.
popplewort333 2 years ago
piston slap is just another term for "your fucked"
IJackeDisLaptopNWhat 2 years ago 9
of course its not,
btw, its lifters, they're worn and when they get hot they expand and then they stop... nothing to worry about, mine does it too
natey1112 2 years ago
thats piston slap alright, my gm 3.4 dohc sounds exactly the same. all rebuilt now, lotsa power yipeee.
sbirocz383 2 years ago
Comment removed
mmeger25 2 years ago
I have the same engine on my 2000 grand am gt and i thought i would be cool in front of the ladys and race my car then next thing you know my engine is shooting oil nd then engine now knocks
IJackeDisLaptopNWhat 2 years ago
yeah rev it up some more lol.
dogfish02 2 years ago
Yeah I fixed it by trading that $hit in and buying a Honda! The problem was 99% the Lower Intake Manifold gasket (LIM) which is a common problem with this GM engine. So for anyone using Dex-cool watch out, it eats gaskets and such!
Czcrd 2 years ago 4
yeah that was a common problem with that engine, thats obviously not "piston slap" either. anybody who knows anything about 60*v6 gm's know to change the LIM and theyll last forever. got 220k miles on mine and counting..good luck with the pos honda tho
3400sfi 2 years ago
pos honda LOOOL...GM is bankrupt and your bitching about honda?....wow...go back to the trailor park dude...your sister miss's your cock
coandcaiv 2 years ago
i wasnt "bitching" about anything. and youre a moron. does filing for bankruptcy really make that much of a difference??
do you know that at this rate other car companies will eventually follow, import sales are dropping too . but u probly wouldnt even notice you fad following MORON. i bet u voted for obama like all the other mindless fad followers HAHA
3400sfi 2 years ago
pfft...lmao....you are such a fag...enjoy your piece of dogshit GM...and there is a diff between bankruptcy and sales drop's you inbred prick ...go fuck a goat...im sure your accustomed to it anyway loser
coandcaiv 2 years ago
oooh yea! cuz ya know SOO much about me. that was a SUPER comeback!... and i will enjoy my "piece of dogshit GM' for ANOTHER 200k miles. Czcrd enjoy the civic they are good cars, jk bout the pos thing. the civics made with problems was the crx. i love the styling on the new ones tho.
3400sfi 2 years ago
Comment removed
Mikeyssss 2 years ago
@Czcrd -- this is the lifters being callapsed use premium gas for a week 93 octane then use the oem recomended fuel rating of 89 read your manual it states it plain and simple lol. my lumina 2001 3.1 motor has had no issues at all i have 170,000 miles no problems well besides the gas cap bs lol.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
@Czcrd Stay away from the factory plastic intake gaskets and get a good flex-pro metal one. Takes about 6 hours to put in if you do it right, but you won't have that problem again.
vaderjones20 1 year ago
@vaderjones20 -- lol its fel pro not flex pro but close
mysubsbang 1 year ago
@Czcrd -- no its usualy the valleys that start leaking unless you used the cheap plastik gasket set to repair it. oh wait you think you know everything so you will just say im wrong but i just had mine fixed for the same reason. and the dexcool of today is not to big of a deal. i havnt had an issue and its been in the car since it was bought in 01.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
@mysubsbang Why you gotta bust chops man??? I never said I know everything and neither have I said that you are wrong. I was simply stating that the fuel used was not an issue on this car according to my manual, answering to some confusion on the correct fuel grade. At the time I thought long and hard whether to repair this, but a more viable option came around in purchasing a new and thus more reliable vehicle. As for the dexcool, some swear by it and others stay away from it. To each his own.
Czcrd 11 months ago
@Czcrd hi there i know this video is old but i have to shed some light. i am a 9 year GM grand master techinician who knows this car back and front. granted the lower intake manifold gaskets are bad for this vehcile, i dont think that it is the dex cool that is the problem, rather it is the gaskets, the plastic does not las tin this coolant. gm replaced the gaskets with updated materials to prevent the problems. the piston slap id sue to another issue with the pistons.
MrRahimhosein 5 months ago in playlist Engines
@Czcrd never happend to me i had this car since it came out in 1999 and never had a problem
ERIC933G 5 months ago
@Czcrd there is nothing wrong with Dexcool , it was what the LIM gaskets were made of, they had plastic in the middle of the gasket...Fel-Pro has copper....if it was the dexcool , same type of coolant is in the Honda.
WWBZT1 4 months ago
@WWBZT1: Sorry, but you're wrong. It has been proven that DexCool become extremely caustic with time. Eventually, it eats through poorer quality gasket materials, as well as erodes aluminum and make certain plastics weak and brittle. Do your research before you talk out of your ass. Additonally, I have fixed many vehicles with DexCool in them that have required eventual replacement of nearly every cooling system component in the system. The common "thread" to all of these issues? Always DexCool.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 OK educate me, where do you get your information from about Dex-cool. BTW it's a real shame U can't see what finger I am holding up. Dex-cool is ethylene glycol. Havoline makes it for GM. Ethylene glycol is nothing new, it's been around for 50 or 60 years. Dex-cool has 2-eha that has been known to soften plastic., GM made a few bad choices with gasket material. Most modern anti freeze is ethylene glycol. a lot of coolant damage is from owner neglect.
WWBZT1 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: What is a shame is know-it-alls like you that act like babies. You know where you can stick that finger, buddy. My information is from real-world experience. Nobody ever said that DexCool wasn't ethylene glycol. That isn't the issue here at all. It's the additives in DexCool that make it soften plastics and other materials, as well as the fact that as the coolant ages, its acidity increases dramatically, thereby literally "eating" away at the entire cooling system as time progresses.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: BTW, I'm not saying you are entirely wrong, because you aren't. It's a well known fact that most automotive problems pertaining to the cooling system come from owner's failure of proper maintenence. HOWEVER, this problem would never have existed if DexCool wasn't used. Those crappy plastic gaskets GM chose to use do work with the use of the time-tested and proven standard GREEN coolant. Virtually nobody follows the recommendations of replacing coolant every 3 years or 60,000 miles.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: The "benefit" of DexCool being a 5 year or 100,000 (supposedly) mile coolant does NOT outweigh the major expense of replacing the entire cooling system piece by piece, (including gaskets & lifters) that come in contact with the stuff over time. I've fixed (& owned) many GM's over the years. I will never run that crap in any of my vehicles again. Problems occured with every one of them that came with Dex Cool in it. Once fixed and gone back to green, never a cooling system problem again.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 Sorry I see things differently. I run Dex-cool in all my GM products. Have never had an issue, every 5 years empty, flush, fill with dex-cool and purified water ( 59 cents a gallon). Please tell me why you have to replace the hydraulic lifters. If you are really paranoid about acidic coolant you can always get ltnese PH test strips to test. Not going back to the green stuff...my time is toooo valuable to change the coolant every year.
WWBZT1 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: Ok, it's pretty clear YOU just DON'T GET IT. So, let me spell it out for you. I'm not paranoid about anything. I'm well aware of how to use litmus paper to test for acidity, and I'm also aware that you can add SCA's to increase the life of your coolant. (It's a widely used practice in the maintenance of off-road construction as well as heavy-duty road vehicles.) You have to replace lifters because the damned DexCool has eaten through the intake gaskets and gotten into the engine oil...
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
SCA (Supplement Coolant Additives) or DCA4, isn't really to increase the life of the coolant..... one of it's most important uses is to prevent Cavitation of the cylinder wall linings. A big thing in most Diesel engines especially in older Ford 7.3L Diesels, as the cylinder walls are to thin, and the walls expend on the power stroke of the piston, and it forces coolant in to eachother, and forms little bubbles on the cylinder walls, and when those bubbles pop, they eat metal.
IDIDieselJohn 1 month ago
@IDIDieselJohn: Thanks, I already know about cavitation in diesels. I studied it in college years ago, and have also rebuilt several engines over the years that were victims of it. Cavitation is caused by piston slap harmonics, which creates a micronic cylinder liner wall expansion and contraction, forming little bubbles that bore through sleeves on wet sleeved engines. A side benefit of DCA4 is that it increases the useful life of coolant, by adding a protective layer within a cooling system.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@IDIDieselJohn: You were reading a little too far into the point I was trying to make. Anyhow, we are both basically correct. BTW, the bubbles actually implode, not "pop" (aka: explode), and the DCA4 converts the existing steel & rust that is present within any cooling system / engine into a hardened layer that helps to prevent cavitation. :-)
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 You still have not shown me a study that has proven w/o a doubt that Dex-cool gets acidic...so does oil if you leave it in an engine crankcase long enough. Seems like this is your opinion and that is just what it is an opinion. BTW if the lifters are that bad, the main bearings are gone too..probably the whole lower end. That is why it is good the check under your hood every fill up ...or every other fill up. Before the engine just quits running.
WWBZT1 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: My life experiences is all the study I need, to deem DexCool crap. I've yet to see a bottom end go bad from one of these intake failures, but I'm sure it has happened, just not to me - yet. Clearly, it's likely that ALL of the oil-lubed wear surfaces will be negatively affected by coolant being in the oil. If the contamination is minor enough by keeping the engine oil changed regularly, it only really affects the weakest link first, which just happens to be the lifters in these engines.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: ... thus, screwing up the engine oil by blending with the leaked coolant and causing the lifters to sustain irrepairable damage. The need to replace the lifters comes from the necessity for them to "pump-up" properly and work again. (Perhaps you don't understand how a hydraulic lifter works?!) Yes, sometimes you can "flush or clean" them and salvage them. The lifters MAY properly function again if they haven't been failing for a sustained amount of time from the water mixed in the oil.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: ... Yes, sometimes you can replace only SOME of the lifters. But, if I'm into an engine doing semi-major work, especially that which is labor-intensive, I'm not going to "penny-pinch" now and then pay for it again later, when one or more of the lifters that were not replaced the first time around fails a little while later. It's called risk management. If you change your coolant every year, you are a wasteful fool. Nobody ever said or suggested that, so no idea where you got that from!
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@SuperTurboDiesel2 I am sure if Dex-cool was a major issue like you claim, GM would not use it ...and I am thinking the cars you see get lumped into the catagory of the people that also never change their oil till their engine fails...coolant...oil got to change it when the manufacturer says to....very sad how people treat their cars.
WWBZT1 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: I call bullshit. You clearly don't understand economics. GM has a poor product (DexCool) that they put into their cars. It has created problems with every vehicle's cooling system that it has ever been put into. However, the components affected typically last well outside the initial warranty period, so the manufacturer just doesn't care. In fact, DexCool HELPS by destroying the cars sooner so that GM can sell more. Manufacturers build cars to have a "useful-life" of approx. 10 years.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: ...not to mention, if GM DID acknowledge that the DexCool was at fault, could you imagine the lawsuits? They'd be out of business so fast, it would make your head spin! So, they defend the crap, they work with the gasket manufacturers to make different seals and gaskets that will be more agreeable with the DexCool, and they continue to use it. Well, good for them, but NOT ME. I will NEVER put DexCool in any vehicle ever again, and I will continue to educate others to do the same.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: Wanna know something else? We've "abused" lots of farm equipment and cars and trucks and such for decades, by not changing the GREEN coolant like we should. Know why? Cost, time, and well... lazyness. Is is smart, no. Does it matter in the grand scheme of things? Nope. Know why? Because when a common failure item such as a water pump, thermostat, hose, or a radiator fails, the vehicle gets all new coolant. Typically, that only happens ONCE during the life of the vehicle.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: We have some tractors and heavy duty trucks that have had the same coolant in them for the past 10+ years. No problems. In fact, on occassion, we dump a bottle of SCA's (Supplemental Coolant Additive) into the radiator. That's all that's needed to keep the cooling/heating system functioning properly. Same goes for my personal vehicles, however, those damned things do seem to have a higher rate of part failure due to inferiorly manufactured components that are used on modern autos.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: One final word, and them I'm done with this topic. My wife's car used to be a 1998 Olds Achieva. It had the infamous 3.1L with the DexCool and intake gasket problem. It began minorly "lifter-ticking" around 60,000 miles and was well out of the manufacturer's warranty. Well, we kept driving it, as the ticking would go away and was rarely noticeable. DexCool was changed out at 100,000 miles.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: ... Somewhere around 120,000, the water pump blew its seal. Next, the radiator cracked. After that, the heater core EXPLODED when the inlet nipple broke off for no reason. I literally had to replace every major cooling system component on the car. I put DexCool back in. Around 130,000 the lifter ticking started to get worse. I did the intake gaskets and lifters. I drained all the DexCool out, flushed the system, and put in the good 'ol tried and true GREEN coolant and never looked back.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
@WWBZT1: ...Car had over 200,000 on it & was wrecked. Car sat for about 4 years with occasional rips around my property to keep it going. Engine was finally pulled from the Achieva and was put into a Grand Am. Put GREEN coolant in it again. Still no problems, and it's been going strong for about 2 years now. That experience plus the HUNDREDS of cars that I've fixed for customers leads me to the conclusion that I'll never use DexCool again. You are free to do what you want, as am I. Good luck.
SuperTurboDiesel2 1 month ago
Sounds like a bad lifter.
TheChokebuster 2 years ago
yeah you might as well stick a fork into that engine cause it's done
99GPSE 2 years ago
bottom ends fucked...thats a technical term u know.
tpvalley 2 years ago
lol it is a tech term lol.
sbirocz383 2 years ago
sounds bad, I have sorta the same problem but its not as bad as yours I dont think... Ever find a fix?
Girz0r 2 years ago
coolant problems, intake gasket like always , water in oil..
davidgggggggg 2 years ago 5
@davidgggggggg -- not necessarily depends on where its leaking mine has been leaking for almost 2 years out of the valleys no water in oil at all also no oil in water. just leaks and evaps from the motor.
mysubsbang 1 year ago
I worked on a Dodge Intrepid that made this sound. The piston rod had snapped. It was just grinding it into the block, digging through everything and leaving shards of metal in the oil pan. Lift the car up and take off the oil pan, look up into the block and see if everything looks right. I wouldnt run it for too long or you might lose it. Spare yourself some money and dont drive it around, for the sake of the engine.
spazbeast 2 years ago
Sounds like a lifter went bad. Prolly the rocker arm has to be replaced
CLCelebrity89 2 years ago
hey my ranger done this for a while i thought the pistons were slapping but they wasnt push rods were bent and the rockers were off bad so i did a rebuild and now she runs awe some 134 thousand miles too
fordboy111591 2 years ago
sounded blown at 1st, but yea i would check your rods and rockers, possibly rebuild the upper end
MaJixGAGT 2 years ago
check ur rod bearings and pistion wrist pin bearings
Bigchief45 2 years ago
it can be 2 things, one its a rocker getting ready to snap or one of your coil packs is not firing correctly, to me i think its a rocker only because once the oil gets heated and fills the top of the motor it seems to dull down.
startacv6 2 years ago
This is not a piston slap, sounds like valve ifters. Piston slap is a deeper sound on some engines the same on warm engine, sometimes even worser on warm engine.
TXfreak85 2 years ago
it is a piston slap if it only happens when engine cold.
espionage84 3 years ago
FRIGGIN JUNK MATE !!!
fuku2bitch 3 years ago
OH SHIT! you definatly need to injectors now!!!
(6) 33# injectors out of 97 supercharged grand prix for S A L E ! ! 100% functioning... $100 shipped....WILL FIT GRAND AMS
good luck with that there crankshaft bro!
PimpXXXGuitarist 3 years ago 2
nice way to try and get him to buy something he doesn't even need!
NotARealUTubeAccount 2 years ago
Thanks, I TRY!!! LOL, you never know... maybe he wants to go BIGGER!!! LOL
PimpXXXGuitarist 2 years ago
no hate was intended in that comment at all! sorry if it sounded like it!
NotARealUTubeAccount 2 years ago
Sweet...
Well on the fact that I don't own the car for close to 9 months now, but I If did I would've had it fixed in every way :) Thanks y'all. Got a brand new 2008 Civic.
To answer any questions, the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket (LIM) failed and leaked coolant into the crankcase. Orange mayonnaise under the oil cap and sticky gunk on dipstick. Flushing the engine was a last ditch effort. I noticed the coolant getting low, but I found what I thought was a source of the leak so I wasn't worried.
Czcrd 3 years ago
That happened to mine, but I lucked out. My low coolant light came on, so the next day I took it to the shop and got ALL the intake gaskets replaced. By catching it so early, I spared my engine from certain death. =D Now my Grand Am GT is at 101k and still running strong!!!
RideLightning225 2 years ago
sounds like a valve lifter to me or whayever you call them in english (its a part that goes enbetween the camshaft and the valve...) and it take a while for it to fill up with oil so its making noise till it fills up... could be becouse it broke or bad oil pressure or the hole where the oil goes troug is dirty.. just replace with new lifters and all good
nicotrial 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
wow...your car is pretty temperamental when first cranked up. Does it do this on first start of the day, or just everytime you crank it up? cuz i could under stand if it was first start because your block has lost all of its heat and the aluminiun pistons have shrunk.
or my other diagnosis is when you mentioned that you "flushed" your engine. that just screams key oil passage block, because you released a chung or sludge that was to much to be dissolved.
please respond to my Q.
thanks!
carlover321 3 years ago
wow...your car is pretty temperamental when first cranked up. Does it do this on first start of the day, or just everytime you crank it up? cuz i could under stand if it was first start because your block has lost all of its heat and the aluminiun pistons have shrunk.
or my other diagnosis is when you mentioned that you "flushed" your engine. that just screams key oil passage block, because you released a chung or sludge that was to much to be dissolved.
please respond to my Q.
thanks!
carlover321 3 years ago
it sounds like it has no oil pressure i think it needs an oil pump
backwash440 3 years ago
Hey man...check out my video. I have a 3.4 Pontiac Grand Am, and my sound seems like its the same as yours...I tried Sea Foam, and that didnt work (not like I expected it to work anyways).
Gh3ttoBlast3r 3 years ago
The lower intake gasket probably failed and washed out the lifter valley. Sounds to me like the lifters are screwed up. Gm has a lot of models with this problem. That dexcool is shit. Never buy a vehicle that uses it.
alphaprimemental 3 years ago
Actually, it's not the Dexcool. It's the fact that the intake gaskets were poorly designed in 3100's, 3400's, and 3800's. Once you replace them once, you are good to go.
The 3400's are quite the troublemakers though. They are infamous for problams.
importhater56401 3 years ago
Actually, It is the Dexcool and not the gasket. Do some research. The chemicals added to dexcool to make it last 100,000 miles are plastisizers. They eat through plastic and rubber. Hence why the gasket deteriorates. Dexcool also causes a brown sludge when it comes in contact with oxygen. There is a class action lawsuit against GM because of dexcool, not the gaskets.
sideburns2009 3 years ago 3
Also, there are many people that have replaced the gaskets several times and keep filling it up with dexcool and it just eats through them again.
sideburns2009 3 years ago
It may also be loose rocker arms, bc same thing happened on mine and that prolly the most common noise with the 3.4L just tighten them to 168in-lbs and then rotate the nut another 30 degrees i believe and see if that does the job
GrandAmGTTT 3 years ago
rod knock
naterade21 3 years ago
lucas oil...add one quart.
thebartender2008 3 years ago
The 3.1 3.4L engines were shit. there is actually a web page how to sue GM over these piston slaping pieces of shit. it all so includes most GM engines currently made. it also includes a class action law suit going on to sue GM right now so if you own a 3.1, 3.4, 4.3, and various other v8's google search it and sue them. Before they go bankrupt lol.. wish i could post the web page but You tube will not let you !
Tramp1973 3 years ago
1)every engine u listed is a v6 not a v8
2)good luck sueing them whether theyre going backrupt
3)everything you said was a matter of opinion, and there are ALOT oworse engines being made out there foreign&domestic
3400sfi 2 years ago
The sound is a lack of oil in the top end of the motor. Once the motor gets warm, the hotter oil gets into the valvetrain. This will get worse, louder, and last longer over time. Get some Lucas Oil oil treatment and it will go away.
jits14 3 years ago
your an idiot for ever recommending an oil treatment to fix an engine problem. the piston stops slapping because it expands and the tollerances between the wall and the skirt gets tighter. lucas oil....shit might as well just poor honey in it and see if that quiets it down
blazerk5drew 3 years ago
i hate gm.....
themanytoys15 3 years ago
and piston slap occurs when the piston is slightly smaller than the cylinder and due to metal expanding when it is heated it will go away.
AeonBlueApocalypse 3 years ago
it can happen if the skirt breaks off too
justinshell01 3 years ago
any kind of piston slap should go away within 30 seconds of starting the car. and usually makes it sound obnoxious like a diesel. i had the same problem with my 3.1 in my malibu. and just as yours does it went away in a couple minutes. i believe this is sticky valves/lifters causing the clicking sounds. i bought some rislone from auto zone and used it in place of a quart of oil on my next change and the sound went away and never came back. my car has 116,000 miles on it.
AeonBlueApocalypse 3 years ago
GM Designed them so the Piston could sexpand and warm up alot faster compared to other engines .. that why the noise stops
stevecurwin 3 years ago
could it be a bearing from the crankshaft?
feffe4 3 years ago
This comment has received too many negative votes show
This is piston slap.
GMsucks01 3 years ago
There are probably going to be a lot of GM fagboys going around here making up excuses about Piston Slap. Ignore it. Get rid of your GM product and you will no longer be cursed.
PROgoth121 3 years ago
Get a Honda with manual transmission! 3rd gear is overrated anyway...
DenCorm 3 years ago