@TestECull Minor disagreement I have. Ideally, no pumps are needed. The 1 BBl carb system is designed for an @ 8 sec. crank to pressurize the oil gallery. (after sitting overnight) Then, you press the pedal once to set the choke. It will start instantly without lifter/rocker ticks. Mine starts at @ 1500 rpm cold, then as it warms up,t fast idles at @ 2000 rpm. if using a 10W30 synthetic, this oil drains from a few lifters overnight. Without a preluber, the 8 sec. crank=0-noise startup.
@seapeddler Mine's got 275,000 miles. The lifters never shut up.
If it's really cold I'll pull the coil wire and spin it over for 10-15, but that's only if I have to brush snow off the hood or melt my way into the door.
@TestECull You must hire a hitman to silence the lifters !
Anyway, I have an 82 motor with the 85 pedestal rocker head. Too bad there isn't an adaptor to use the Cummins rocker setup, which is infinitely superior.
The valvetrain on the 300 should be quite silent. Adjustment is indicated.
@seapeddler At 275,000 miles it's a waste of time. All the noise is likely from lifter and/or cam lobe wear, pushrod wear and rocker wear. My valvetrain won't shut up until I can get around to replacing the cam and lifters, and that won't happen until I get around to overhauling the whole engine.
@TestECull You watch those Amsoil vids that show a 500 000 mi. truck engine with no wear. The Amsoil bypass filter keeps the engine like new. Like you said, the engine must be overhauled. Case closed.
@seapeddler It doesn't need an overhaul per se. It still runs fine and doesn't burn a drop of anything. It's just not worth the effort to replace the cam and lifters, only to have to yank 'em back out when I do get around to overhauling it.
@seapeddler I might if I can remember to. As it is I'm going to be replacing the ball joints in the I-beams before the wheels fall off. Literally. That can't happen until it warms up enough.
@seapeddler Amazingly mine's rust free....structurally, anyways. I have some body cancer in the bed and hood, but nothing that's going to rip the truck in half or anything. I don't even have any cab corner rust, a common problem with Fords of this gen.
@TestECull I discovered a cheap trick. Conveyor belt is better than original or polyurethane body mounts. Cut the rubber into discs until it is @ as thick as the original frame bushing. Expect better steering response immediately. Of cousre 3/4 in. body mount bolts should never flex. Which is what I used.
@seapeddler The old Ford 4.9L were notorious for lifter knock, but just run some seafoam through so they dont get stuck, keep the oil changed youll be fine. These engines are probably one of the best engines ever built period! they will run forever, even with noisy lifters and oil burning.
@allischalmer55 Electronics, mostly. In the 70's, Ford used a more primitive ignition system featuring vaccum and mechanical advance with a single ignition box. Pretty similar setup to what most hotrodders use, and it goes by Duraspark II. In the 80's, Ford went to the EEC-IV control system using 100% electronic advance and a feedback carb, all in the name of economy.
Retrofitting a Duraspark II to an EEC-IV engine is a huge upgrade, by the way. The old distributor bolts right in.
@allischalmer55 Mechanically speaking the 4.9 never changed over it's lifespan. A head from a 67 will bolt onto an engine cast in 1996, and vice versa. You can take that '67 engine and turn it into a '96 OBD-II engine with a few off-the-shelf bolt-ons. The only mechanical changes were minor, such as valve guides compatible with unleaded fuel and camshaft profile changes, but again these parts will fit ANY 300 from any year.
Too many pumps. WAY too many pumps. Three is all you need. One in warm weather.
Trust me, I have the same engine in the same year of Ford.
TestECull 1 year ago
@TestECull Minor disagreement I have. Ideally, no pumps are needed. The 1 BBl carb system is designed for an @ 8 sec. crank to pressurize the oil gallery. (after sitting overnight) Then, you press the pedal once to set the choke. It will start instantly without lifter/rocker ticks. Mine starts at @ 1500 rpm cold, then as it warms up,t fast idles at @ 2000 rpm. if using a 10W30 synthetic, this oil drains from a few lifters overnight. Without a preluber, the 8 sec. crank=0-noise startup.
seapeddler 1 year ago
@seapeddler Mine's got 275,000 miles. The lifters never shut up.
If it's really cold I'll pull the coil wire and spin it over for 10-15, but that's only if I have to brush snow off the hood or melt my way into the door.
TestECull 1 year ago
@TestECull You must hire a hitman to silence the lifters !
Anyway, I have an 82 motor with the 85 pedestal rocker head. Too bad there isn't an adaptor to use the Cummins rocker setup, which is infinitely superior.
The valvetrain on the 300 should be quite silent. Adjustment is indicated.
seapeddler 1 year ago
@seapeddler At 275,000 miles it's a waste of time. All the noise is likely from lifter and/or cam lobe wear, pushrod wear and rocker wear. My valvetrain won't shut up until I can get around to replacing the cam and lifters, and that won't happen until I get around to overhauling the whole engine.
TestECull 1 year ago
@TestECull You watch those Amsoil vids that show a 500 000 mi. truck engine with no wear. The Amsoil bypass filter keeps the engine like new. Like you said, the engine must be overhauled. Case closed.
seapeddler 1 year ago
@seapeddler It doesn't need an overhaul per se. It still runs fine and doesn't burn a drop of anything. It's just not worth the effort to replace the cam and lifters, only to have to yank 'em back out when I do get around to overhauling it.
TestECull 1 year ago
@TestECull Then do a video showing a compression test. That would be fun.
seapeddler 1 year ago
@seapeddler I might if I can remember to. As it is I'm going to be replacing the ball joints in the I-beams before the wheels fall off. Literally. That can't happen until it warms up enough.
TestECull 1 year ago
@TestECull We just don't realize how ingenious Ford trucks are. Damn the rust though.
seapeddler 1 year ago
@seapeddler Amazingly mine's rust free....structurally, anyways. I have some body cancer in the bed and hood, but nothing that's going to rip the truck in half or anything. I don't even have any cab corner rust, a common problem with Fords of this gen.
TestECull 1 year ago
@TestECull I discovered a cheap trick. Conveyor belt is better than original or polyurethane body mounts. Cut the rubber into discs until it is @ as thick as the original frame bushing. Expect better steering response immediately. Of cousre 3/4 in. body mount bolts should never flex. Which is what I used.
seapeddler 1 year ago
@seapeddler The old Ford 4.9L were notorious for lifter knock, but just run some seafoam through so they dont get stuck, keep the oil changed youll be fine. These engines are probably one of the best engines ever built period! they will run forever, even with noisy lifters and oil burning.
brade07 1 month ago
what kind of boots are you wearing
MRTRAFFICLIGHTMAN 1 year ago
Gee Jeff, you REALLY like to pump the gas a lot!
JSneaker 1 year ago
is there i difference in the 70s and the 80s ford 4.9l
allischalmer55 1 year ago
Im not exacty sure. I don't think so but then again im not really big on the hoistor of those engines.
futuredelorean 1 year ago
@allischalmer55 Electronics, mostly. In the 70's, Ford used a more primitive ignition system featuring vaccum and mechanical advance with a single ignition box. Pretty similar setup to what most hotrodders use, and it goes by Duraspark II. In the 80's, Ford went to the EEC-IV control system using 100% electronic advance and a feedback carb, all in the name of economy.
Retrofitting a Duraspark II to an EEC-IV engine is a huge upgrade, by the way. The old distributor bolts right in.
TestECull 1 year ago
@allischalmer55 Mechanically speaking the 4.9 never changed over it's lifespan. A head from a 67 will bolt onto an engine cast in 1996, and vice versa. You can take that '67 engine and turn it into a '96 OBD-II engine with a few off-the-shelf bolt-ons. The only mechanical changes were minor, such as valve guides compatible with unleaded fuel and camshaft profile changes, but again these parts will fit ANY 300 from any year.
TestECull 1 year ago
dude where did u get this truck????? i am looking for the same one!!!!!!!!!
KBUNKHOCKEY 2 years ago
good ol truck
auaiao9 2 years ago
yep it is
futuredelorean 2 years ago
Looks like my dad's old 1980 F-150 he used to have, except his had a 6 cylinder.
DanielJaegerFilms 2 years ago
that is a six cylinder
dodgedrummer 2 years ago
Yes it is.
futuredelorean 2 years ago
o nicee yeah these models all look alike
futuredelorean 2 years ago
pump it, man..pump it. :)
floodedcaddy 2 years ago
nice play toy
Kev1974 2 years ago