Added: 3 years ago
From: redbarnboats
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  • Thanks for the great vid. How do you get the cloth around the the ends of the boat without any wrinkles in the cloth?

  • @scoobeedu Lots and lots of smoothing. Watch the two videos of the newest (newest videos) hull I just finished. It was the most difficult todate. I did have to cut a dart down the center line of the transom.

  • now pull it off and u got another boat

  • woven fiberglass looks so beautiful...i was at lowes today and wanted to buy a pack of some just so i can look at it.

  • Thank you for the very informative vids ....I am restoring an 8' Mini Max Sea Flea for my son and will be reglassing the bottom of the hull.....What do you suggest Matt or cloth and what oz ??

    Thanks again

    Chris

    Canada

  • @mrhonkeytonker I would go with 4oz glass cloth on the Sea Flea. Mat is only used as filler in the big (or cheap) boats. Give the bottom a good sanding, and fair in any deep gouges with "fairing compound" like System Three's Quick Fair. Then sand smooth. Lay on the glass cloth and smooth out the creases like I do in the video. Then wet out the cloth and cure, then a couple more coats of epoxy to fill the weave. Sand and paint.

  • @redbarnboats Thank you for the info Sir, this will help out alot and I am using West System up here in Canada.

    I will have to send some pics when she is completed.

    Thank You again

    Chris

  • thanks for the video, i looking to re-fiberglass a 12' boat and i was wondering if i can use a bi-axial mat instead.

  • @onsedyes If you are putting this on the inside, I would say yes, but putting "mat" (multi directional chopped fiber) on the outside of a 12 foot boat would be very difficult to get a smooth coat without using a lot of resin/epoxy and adding a lot of extra weight.

    Fair the hull and lay on a layer of 6oz cloth like I show in the video. Wet out the cloth to the hull, and then fill the weave after the wet out coat has cured.

  • hi ! i am interested to know what kind of material you used ? if you can please give the excact name of the cloth and the gel !

  • @butbahsasab I don't know the brand name of the glass cloth, but it was 4oz in weight. I have done this with 6oz, but you need more epoxy to fill the weave of the cloth to get a smooth surface for painting. I always use System Three epoxy products on my boats, and their SilverTip version is the epoxy I used here. It's a non-blush epoxy that flows smoothly, and doesn't need to be surface washed after it cures.

  • i have a homemade canoe that is 18 feet long, built in 1970, and never seen water, do you think i will have to re glass it before i put it into the water?

  • @dtilley4 If the existing glass cloth is still "firmly" attached to the hull, and has not been out in the sunlight all these years, you should not have to do anything but give it a new coat of paint. Give it a good "light" sanding to remove any surface defects, and apply a new coat of paint. You might want to "prod" the hull surface with a stick to see if the glass cloth is still attached, and there are no bubbles/voids under the surface where it may have lifted in places.

  • i make longboards and i need a water tight seal and thats why i wanna use the cloth fiber glass but does it add strength to the board or no

  • @McRapper411 A single layer of cloth will add protection to the "filler" underneath, but not a structual layer. You would need several layers of cloth/mat for a rigid shell. I assume you are using a dense/closed cell foam for the boards that you shape. A layer of glass cloth would add a wearing surface, and give the board some impact protection; plus a surface to paint and wax. Most epoxy will not hurt the dense foams, and I would use epoxy just to keep the smell down in your shop.

  • thanks for the video red!!

  • rebarn. . I was just a kid in high school. No vacuum system. . just peeling off the glass and letting her rip! Particles were everywhere. I currently have a 6' 9" surfboard that I plan on refinishing. I plan on using my breathing mask for painting in my booth and wearing my long sleeve painting suit. Nice to know that there are creams out there for protection.

  • When I was in high school circa 1969 I stripped a surfboard in my garage to make a short board from a long board. Since it had a bit of wood in it, the stringer, my shop teacher allowed it to be a project for me. That night I took a hot shower and I nearly felt like I was going to die from the itching. . it was so horrible. Cold showers only to close the pores! Beautful boat! And nice instructional materail. . thanks again. . Kirk

  • @74LesPaul Did you have a "vaccum" system on your sander when you were stripping off the old glass? There are creams you can put on your skin to keep the glass out of your pores.

  • Hi, I'm about to do 1 "one" boat, it's about 30" that I have done blueprint my self. I would like to know if I need a mold for that, why not just do by fiberglass. Is that possible?

    Hope some one can PM me or just tell me in here how to do the best of it.

    My boat will be a sailing boat that has a heavy coating that has to hold for keel.

  • @rantsila You will probably need to make a "frame" and either "cold mold" the hull with thin wood sheets, or use "fiberglass rods" to form the outline of the hull. Google both cold mold and mold free fiberglass hulls.

  • @redbarnboats

    Thank you, and I will look into the both cold mold and hulls

  • Do not take a hot shower afterwards as the stuff will get into your skin. You will itch like you have never itched before. Cold shower only. I made this mistake once and will never do it again!

  • @74LesPaul haha yeah i know what you're talking about .. i work in a warehouse that distributes construction supplies and i work with insulation alot and oh man does it bother!

  • doesn't the glass particles that get in your skin bother you because you dont use gloves

  • I've never had a problem from "loose/broken" glass fibers getting in my hands. The cloth I get is always clean, and dust free.

  • Thanks, your videos are so helpful : )

    I've got some minor hull damage along the length of the keel on a 26ft fiberglass boat ( a Grew 2550 Cabin Cruiser), I'm thinking of smothing over large peices of fiberglass in a similar fashion, but to be done from underneath...what do you think?

  • i have to learn how to do this in wood shop for aircraft

    lol "come in like an airplane"

  • This movie was very interesting to watch, Hilary Swank fits well as Amelia. To watch it? again at freemoviehq . o r g

  • amazing movie! eminent effects, unquestionably loved it! i watched it online for release at onlinehqmovies . com

  • Thanks I learned alot from the video. I am building a deck on my boat out of marine plywood that I am going to glass and then gel coal using the flex-mold system for non skid. My question is, I am going to cut out a space for a hatch in the middle of the deck, what is the best way to wrap the glass cloth inside that opening? Also if I am glassing both sides of the wood what would be the best stopping point so I can flip and get the other side once it's dry? Thanks so much!!

  • I would remove most of the cloth that's over the hatch opening, but leave enough for the roll over. I would also add some glass strips at the inside of the corners before you add/roll over the top cloth. Make sure there is a bit of "roundness" to the edges of the opening. At least a 1/8" radius, as glass cloth doesn't like sharp corners.

    Do the top side first wet out first, with it's roll over for the hatch opening, then the bottom side. Fill the weave last

  • i need to make something out of fiberglass do you have any tips/

  • A good smooth mold, and mold release wax.

  • you don't wet the surface out first?

  • No. Dust free yes, but no epoxy until the cloth has relaxed for a couple of days, and its time to do the first "wet out" application of epoxy.

  • i liked your video. But i really hate the sound you started making at 5:15 Gives me goosebumps :) Other than that good vid

  • You will get some noise as the scraper moves the epoxy into the weave. Make sure that what ever you use, has "rounded" corners.

  • dgmarklin: The foam is full of air bubbles, and this can haze the finish on a "clear coat" hull(like on a stripper canoe).

    If the glass is separating, the epoxy may have been too thick, and didn't penatrate the glass down to the wood. Use good epoxy, and don't let it get thick. Make small batches, and make sure the glass is pressed down to the wood.

  • When you said (6:00ish) about the foaming, do you mean that it can create a frost between the grain and the fiberglass? My boat has done that and I am going to have to redo it all... =/ I want to keep my cedar boat's epoxy clear so you can see the wood. I don't think my boats glass has experience UV damage, I think its the epoxy or something. Looks to be separating from the grain of the wood underneath. Thanks in advance.

  • Brown: Not sure what you are saying, but once you are happy with the fit of the glass, you just apply the "wet out" coat. Come back the next day (if cured) and add a second coat of epoxy. You do this at least three times to fill the weave of the cloth. Then paint the hull when all the epoxy has cured. There is no gelcoat, and no more glass applied to outside of the hull.

  • hi great video... can you paint on gelcoat and then glass on it say a few days later? or does it have to be glassed over when tacky'?

    thanks...

  • That cloth takes compound curves like saran wrap. It has a loose weave, I assume? Informative clip!

  • thats just what i needed warren thanx

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