Added: 4 years ago
From: AudiMouse
Views: 15,361
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  • i would like to make a car from gas to electric .i keep on looking on line no answers.i can get mostly all parts from from wrecking yard, but which parts do ineed to start thanks.

  • @chicano1963 There are lots of manufacturers of parts out there. Have a look at the evalbum and see what other people who have done similar conversions have used. Also check out the evdl for lots of information and discussion about it. Basics you need are a suitable motor, controller, battery pack, charger, and DC-DC converter. Lots of options available.

  • Very Impressive !!

  • i dont know any think about eMOtORS but y cant thaty throw a hight power altanater on a eMOTOR or put 2 or 4 idk so when the emotor spins the belt spins the altanater and u put power back in the batory just as fast ass u use it dos that not make sens or is ther some think that is stoping that from haping

  • Yup, my 83's gettin an electric motor, any good ideas where i could snag an old cheapy motor?

  • I got the one in that car from a forklift wrecking yard. It's a drive motor from an old baker forklift.

  • @AudiMouse are they efficienct? ya think it could operate a suv?

  • @pfun41 AC motors are much more efficient. Electric drive can be scaled up to any size vehicle with the proper sized motor and battery pack.

  • nice job.. what kind of battery's did you

    use and how many?

  • Nice job. I am picking up a 93 Honda Del Sol with upgraded suspension tomorrow to begin my conversion. I am a Computer Engineer who likes to tinker, and like everyone else, I am fed up with gas price hikes. What HP are you using? I calculated about 9000 watts cruising (12HP) theoretical, subtract a couple HP for energy losses. Accel HP could be upwards of 50HP @ 500A. Is this about right? Do you have any leads on where to snag a motor/controller? I'm planning for ~120-150 VDC. Cheers.

  • that is awesome dude. even though you have changed the motor it still technically a rotary motor. lol

  • It seems to be a very powerful motor.

    You say that the motor needs 90 VDC, but...

    What about the amperes?

  • The motor actually needs 120vdc to propel the car at freeway speeds. At high speed, current draw should be around 100a, with up to 500a+ during acceleration. This is more of a limit of the controller than the motor.

  • Thanks for the inspiration. I also bought a RX7 to convert. Keep up the posts and let us know your results. Good job.

  • nice..

  • If you don't mind me asking, what made you choose an Rx7 as your platform? I own an FC as well so I was a little interested.

  • Small, light, RWD, longitudinally mounted engine, low coefficient of drag, and fairly easy to find with 'bad' engines ;-)

  • Haha. Makes sense now. Thought that it was just a random coincidence. Yeah, the stock engines on these "suck"! haha

  • what causes that pitch in the controllers? The curtis ones are way loud

  • The sound is the frequency of the PWM signal. The curtis controllers (from what I've read), start out at a lower frequency for low speed operation to prevent stalling, then shift to a higher frequency (upper end of normal human hearing) for normal operation.

  • I think you should raise the switching frequency to 15KHz - 18KHz range so its not so audible. Also are you freewheeling the current with diodes when the mostfets or IGBT's are off in the switching cycle? It's better to do it that way than to snub it. Finally, are you filtering the PWM wave with 220uF - 470 uf capacitors??

  • very nice and precise control, minimal high frqy sound normally on speed controlers, some but not as much as others, I like it, looks like its going pretty well for ya. Hope it keeps going that way. BTW what kinda batteries are those in you bank?

  • Those are 40aH NiCad aircraft cells. And thanks!

  • Very nice, you gonna run two banks for 80ah? Oh yes and also what kinda motor are you using?

  • Nah, two banks would be way too many batteries. I've got 100 as it is! The motor is an old forklift drive motor.

  • I think you should raise the switching frequency to 15KHz - 18KHz range so its not so audible. Also are you freewheeling the current with diodes when the mostfets or IGBT's are off in the switching cycle? It's better to do it that way than to snub it. Finally, are you filtering the PWM wave with 220uF - 470 uf capacitors??

  • I think you should raise the switching frequency to 15KHz - 18KHz range so its not so audible. Also are you freewheeling the current with diodes when the mostfets or IGBT's are off in the switching cycle? It's better to do it that way than to snub it. Finally, are you filtering the PWM wave with 220uF - 470 uf capacitors??

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