Added: 4 years ago
From: HomeAdditionPlus
Views: 187,382
Sort by time | Sort by thread (beta)

Link to this comment:

Share to:
see all

All Comments (47)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • Nice job on the instructional video. But in this case I would go for a repair rather than replacement since it is painted. Just clean out the damage, fill in with a bit of bondo, sand after it dries, and paint. Replace the door stop and move it outside the damaged area. Much less work and the results are the same or better.

  • It looks easy to do for a novice. I don't have an electric saw, though. Maybe if I had the correct measurements, Home Depot can cut the baseboards for me.

    Using caulk to cover the nails,..thanks for this tidbit.

  • @vgrandja You can buy a mitre box and saw for about $20-25.

  • thanks

    

  • very heelpful!

    

  • Thank you very much for this practical and simple explanation of replacing the trim. I have subscribed to HomeAdditionPlus and look forward to more videos soon. mlc

  • How do I fill the gap between the baseboard and tile, when several tiles are lower than the others. Most of the gap is 1/8 inch, which can be caulked, but how do I fill bigger 1/4" gaps?

  • You could consider adding quarter-round to the bottom edge of the baseboard trim.

  • @mckubik backer rod

  • Awesome video. Thanks for uploading.

  • Just remember to use caulk that you can paint over. Some caulk is not paint-able.

  • So helpful, thank you!

    alison from Toronto

  • Thanx 4 uploading it!

  • Thank you very much for the video

    The issue I have is that my wall is a concrete (double brick).

    How do I fix it to the wall, I can't use nails only can I??

    Thank you

  • I would consider using an adhesive or a flexible vinyle baseboard trim with an adhesive, simliar to what you might see in a commercial application.

  • Great job on the video. Do you prefer pine baseboard or mdf?

  • I prefer Pine baseboard

  • If I were replacing an entire room of baseboard, would you suggest painting the walls after removing the baseboard and then putting new baseboards on and painting them after? Then I guess I would have to touch up the caulk.

  • I would suggest painting the walls after your remove the old baseboard. I would also suggest painting or staining the new baseboard trim prior to installing. Then all you need to to do is touch up the nail holes after installing and run a bead of caulk.

  • Thank you so much!

  • Thanks

  • Good stuff.

  • Great Video!

    Are the finishing nails nailed in anywhere into the wall (into the sheetrock) or are you aiming for a stud in the wall?

    Please let me know...!

    Thanks, great job.

  • Yes, it is important you put the fininsh nails into wall studs and the base wall 2x4 plate.

  • Awesome!

  • Thanks! Nice video on how to remove baseboards. Just what I was looking for. I need to install laminate flooring for my kitchen and there are quite a few baseboards around the cabinets.

  • Nice job. I really do not have the confidence to do a simple project like this. I have no confidence in my abilities to do carpentry, though I can build a computer. The video is a testament of the wonders of the internet to share basic knowledge.

  • What if the room is carpeted? I want to replace all the trim and doors on the second floor. The carpet is in great shape and I don't plan on replacing it. Should I pull it all back from the wall and have a professional re-stretch it, or can I just install the baseboard on top of it?

  • If there is basboard already installed and the carpet is down, then you should be able to remove the old baseboard trim and install new trim without having to lift the carpet. The carpet tack strips are what holds the carpet in place.

  • how do you cut baseboard that is going to butt up against door trim?

  • You simply make a square cut.

  • but what if my baseboard is thicker than my door trim? Because then my baseboard will stick out a little up against the thinner door trim. Thanks for you reply.

  • You could consider putting a small piece of quarter round on the exposed edge to soften it up and help with the transition into the door trim.

    Also you could cut the edge of the baseboard trim at an angle so that it sits flush with the sufrace of the door trim.

    Alternatively you could use a thinner baseboard trim.

  • ease the edge with a chamfer (mitre but not all the way to the back

  • Great video, but it left out one detail that is giving me fits....

    I don't have the luxury of a nail gun, so I have to use a real hammer.

    When I hammer in the baseboard, the bottom kicks in further than the top. Thus the top is forced away from the wall, leaving an ugly gap on the top.

    I've tried pre-drilling the holes. Still the top kicks out.

    Is there anything I can do to get the top of the baseboard flush with the wall?

    With the manual hammer and nail method?

  • You have to nail the top of the baseboard to the wall studs, as the bottom plate isn't thick enough.

  • Nicely done. Thank you.

    I am dreading replacing the base trim at my house. Here's why:

    1) The previous owners installed laminate, and quarter-round. They did not adjust the existing base trim height. I don't know what's under the quarter-round -- yet.

    2) The previous owners also installed tile in some rooms, but did not adjust the height of the base trim to accommodate the tile. Therefore, the base trim is embedded in the grout.

    Any tips for #2?

  • Not sure there is an easy answer to two, other than leaving it alone. If you really want to replace it, then I would also consider replacing the tile. After removing the old tile, you could then remove the old baseboard.

  • Yes, I see that it's going to be a big job if I choose to do it. Maybe it is best to leave it alone.

    If I do anything, I will probably see if I can get the grout out of a test area; then have a look at it. At worst, I can just re-grout it and go away if things turn really ugly really fast.

    Thank you for your response.

  • Very informative video; this will come in handy as I most likely will be installing baseboards in my bedroom in the next few weeks or so.

  • Nice work. Showed me everything I needed, very clear.

  • hi Mark, how long are the nails used for baseboard trim installation?

  • If I am using hammer and nails, I use 8d finish nails on baseboard trim, except for the outside corners. Typically I use 8ds at the base of the trim and 6ds near the top to avoid splitting.

  • Thanks.

    I have a brad nailer, I guess this gun is too small for 8d nails right?

    Do I have to shoot all the nails to studs or I can shoot anywhere on the drywall?

  • Its important that the nail sink into the wall stud by approximately 1 inch. When you factor in 1/2 inch for the baseboard trim, plus another 1/2 inch for the drywall you need a 2" nail.

    It is also very important that the nail sink into a wall stud. Otherwise, the baseboard will pull away from the drywall.

  • Thanks.

    I have another question if you don't mind. I installed laminate flooring on my room, but I cut some planks too short, there is a 3/4" space between some planks and the wall. The new baseboards (5/8" thick) can't cover the gap. What can I do to fix it without using additional quarter round (I can't remove the plank)? Thanks.

  • Thanks.

    I have another question if you don't mind. I installed laminated flooring in my room, but I cut some planks too short. There are some 3/4" space between the planks and the wall, and the new baseboards (5/8 " thick) can't cover the gaps. What can I do to fix it without removing the planks and without using additional quarter round at the base? Thanks

  • Hmm. You are in a little bit of a bind. The only thing I can suggest is to use 1xN stock (e.g. 1"x3" or 1"x4") and use that as your baseboard trim. You could then add a quarter round piece (or some other type of decorative trim piece)on top of it to dress it up.

    You could also use a router to create a finished edge on top of the 1xN stock to have one solid piece of custom baseboard trim to install.

    The 1" stock material should hide the space between the edge of the plank and wall.

  • u cud put a packer at base or ur board thus allowing the bottom edge 2 sit out further than the top

  • Thanks Mark.

  • Thanks, Mark...your video really helped.

  • wow! this is great! opened my eyes to how to install Trim :)

Loading...
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more