Climbing Tools: Equalised Anchors (again)

[rocker12181]

Use 2 carabiners where the rope is clipped in and use longer webbing so it forms a more acute angle. But otherwise good vid.

[Bonerboy2011]

Is okay to use only 1 rope connecting biner? It seems like the general consensus is to use 2.

[mikebarter387]

@Bonerboy2011 Sorry I don't quite understand the question?

[Bonerboy2011]

@mikebarter387 sorry in the vid he is using 3 biners--2 on the anchor and 1 at the end to connect to the rope. is it okay to use just one or is it standard to use 2 biners w/ opposing gates? i hope this makes more sense.

[aimsucksdieaim]

I'm surprised this is the first time this is coming up (from what I've seen)... BUT to be a perfectionist, the final angle formed was right around 90 degrees between the two anchors where is should be quite a bit less to limit the vector forces on the anchors in the event of weighting the anchors...

[limey3r]

cool thanks

[oogalyboogaly]

how would you do this with three anchors?

[mikebarter387]

@oogalyboogaly Keep looking we cover that somewhere

[MrTravisDeeth]

Paris Hilton hot sexy girls? Lol. Great video! Keep up the good work.

[pogoMkiv]

Great Video, Great advice. Hopefully people will actually implement it.

[willpmack]

Thanks for the solid advice.

[Boliverianoz]

MIKE ROCKS..."

[PaulWittRealtor]

While this is a great video for building an anchor when you know that the direction of pull will never change. Therefore, it is important to note that this anchor should be used ONLY for top-roping. This is not the preferred method of anchor construction for any other climbing save TR climbing. It is not a dynamically egualizing anchor. A better anchor would have been the sling configured with the sliding X with limiter knots on each leg approx. 8-10in. apart from center power point.

[fearthespeed]

Only thing about the knotted sliding x is it's not redundant. If one strand of the sliding x is cut (inside the limiting knots), the entire anchor goes. This method creates a redundant master point that would solve that problem. Either way, there is no 'preferred' method of anchor construction; it depends on what you're doing.

[bigphil562]

really good video by someone who absolutely knows what he is talking about. I would like to see some of the other "instructors" refer to vectors and have a clue.

[snoopydoc75]

Very well-explained tutorial. Thanks for going to the trouble of putting it up.

[wackypro]

Finally, a source for real wisdom and knowledge.

[lvscan]

Mike, is this you in your younger furrier years? Or is this someone else giving us an very awesome, informative tutorial. Wish I lived in Canada to take your classes in person.

[lexdunn101]

very good!

[wolfinside]

Great video, thank you!

[iolairjames]

great video very informative

[ltj999]

you could just have a pre-tied quad on your harness, then bam you done, and much more equalized than tying an overhand. I keep one with me at all times for quick 2 point anchors.

[jbnwc]

Very good instruction. Well done.

[mikebarter387]

Except common sense

[jamesdeans0007]

i can get ever thing i need to repel in a hard wear store

[mikebarter387]

Except common sense!

[mikebarter387]

Technically your right. There would be a fair amount of stretch. If you were building your anchor from trad gear then yes it is perhaps a better way to go.

I really don't teach it because few do it right and you are then on one strand of cord. It take a little longer to construct and deconstruct. The focal point is harder for begginers to identify ( there being a chance that they can clip it in such a way that that should one piece fail the whole system fails) what you describe is accurate.

[kalvan0]

wouldn't it be better to tie two overhands a few inches up on both sides of the loaded biner so that you can have at least some dynamic equalization while minimizing extension should one of the anchors fail?

the way it's setup here will force one of the anchors to bear the entire load unless the force is coming exactly from where you think it is. i'd call it more of an example of redundant placement than true equalization.

otherwise good vid, very clear.

[tyson3cobb]

very nice video! easy to follow and good knowledge!

[DAILYCASH411]

very nice!! good stuff 2 know

[socuara]

Thank you very much! This is really important information for me.

[locorogue]

K.I.S.S. NICE VID

[mattcorr88]

Thanks for the advice. I'm doing my SPA very soon and so your videos, which are all easy to understand and very informative, are always appreciated. Thanks

[grungesae]

very nice!!! thanks!!!

[invisticone69]

5 stars ;)

Already knew that but to many people dont..

(No disrespect, I made scary anchors when I started off)

[nileallaf]

thanks for that mike, shows good principals. But could you also show 3 and 4 anchor points at different heights. Cheers

[mikebarter387]

Good point I will do that. Adding a sling into the system and a few other things may help a few out. I will see if i can get that for you shortly.

[mikebarter387]

Stay tuned I am off to mexico to shoot a whole series on anchors and rock protection.

[binsaif]

Thank you

[1A2Z3E4R5T6Y7U8I9O]

thank you

[mikebarter387]

Leave a comment and give me 5 stars. That way my profile rises on the youtube. Tell me what you want to see next I can cut a vid on any question you may have

[Tumblemark]

Sorry, Mike, you're wrong. Your extension limiting anchor is actually a 1-knot cordelette made with a runner; it DOES NOT equalize. A change in direction of force or mis-guess in locating the knot considerably imbalances forces on the placements. You have REDUNDANCY, not EQUALIZATION. Instead, tie an overhand in each leg of the sliding X with one of the strands through the master biner extra loose--a sloppy X (TM).

[mikebarter387]

your right technically. However I am not comfortable with

1) a single strand of cord.

2) teaching that method at this level

If you get the direction of load even close it is going to have a load distribution. What I do like is a destinct focul point that new climbers can recognise. Yeh your right but I am going to stick with my anchor for teh most part.

I have used your system when trying to get the most out of a few tied off knife blades.

[glahhg]

if you do what TM says you are not relying on a single strand.

[mikebarter387]

My mistake you are right. With the system described you would attached with two pieces of cord.

The main disadvantages are time to construct (greatly reduced with practice)

Reconisable focal point for newbies to attach to

In a situation where gear is marginal this may well be the better way to construct the anchor

bolts I suggest the way shown

[mikebarter387]

Sorry your right about what you are saying I just have a prejudice for simplicity.

The comments from someone else pointed out my error thanks

Mike