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  • if you dont want to spend all day using cotton pads to remove the old blue. what i do is get very soft sos pads and a old coffe cup.pour a little blue&rust remover and dip the pad into the cup and rub the parts with the pad. some dont like that way, but i think it works great. it removes and polish it at the same time. another thing i do diffrent is when i blue knifes and barrles is put a layer of blue, dip it in cold water wipe it off and repeat it untill you get it as dark as you like.

  • when polishing on the wheel you might want to wear some gloves and eye protection. Couldn't tell if you had eye protection on but. I worked in the military on those cleaning tools and such and had sometimes the metal wires shoot out and stick me in the hand. Also had the wheel take off some skin when I got to close to it. Just looking out for ya bud :)

  • where did you buy the cleaner and blue remover??

  • for about 160 could i pick up a beatup old mauser? spanish, yugo, turkish dont really care but could i?

  • LOL I think your grinding wheel has a lego motor. As a machinist it made me cringe, but I really enjoyed the video.

  • Could you pour that rust remover down the barrel of a milsurp to get rid of any rust or pitting thats in the bore from the corrisive ammo?

  • @TheKodiak72 soak it in wd40 for a few days and use a barrel brush to remove the rust. if it has sevear pits i would recomend haveing a gunsmith look a it. if you have a shot gun. just shoot the shit out of it. 25 shells later it will look like a mirror

  • @TheKodiak72 another thing that works for corrosion in chambers that i have found that works is battery terminal cleaner. just make shure you dont get it on your blue

  • I'm going to go blue me some damn rifles now. Maybe some other shit too.

  • I want to blue the slide on a SW1911 any sugests?

  • I want to reblue my shotgun as cheap as possible and I was gonna use that exact same stuff but it didn't say nothing about heating?

  • can i just how fricken awesome yalls vids are!

    

  • After the blue is removed, and the part polished, is it ok to leave it polished?

  • Eviljagtech: Never use a non-ferris brush on steel. You will set up a galvanic reaction and end up with rust in the steel. Only use either a steel brush or plastic.

  • Thanks Kenny powers!

  • Just one appication of cleaner degreser and then steel wool seems to be more efficient. Should I not be doing this?

  • at 6:43 he reminded me of Eric Cartman

  • i really like your videos, i have blued a lot of guns with caseys but i always like to look at someone else doing it cause you can always pick up new tricks, something to mention is that i would try and have the same tittle for the videos that way they are easy to find, bluing a gun1, bluing a gun 2 and so forth, besides that, great videos!!!!

  • what do you recomend to use to remove rust

  • Just buy a couple cans of brake cleaner from AutoZone and go to town on it to degrease and clean it.

  • where can I buy the blue and rust remover?

  • do you just wash it with water?

  • hey man. Your videos help alot!! so i have a old model 12 winchester 12ga. And its got surface rust on all the external part of the gun. and im thinking about taking the gun to a professional and have it reblued. Do you think i should prep it and take off the rust before i take it to him? if so how should i do it? thanks man

  • lol my mauser is already basically just metal no bluing ( except the parts hidden by wood)

  • @MrBobboman Mine too! you just described my Kar98 :)

  • Given the choice, would you rather use Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber aerosol or the liquid Cleaner Degreaser?

  • I knew I would like your video within the first 30 seconds! Right on brother! Dip that shit! Hell yeah! Thanks for the video! I am about to give it a try on a old winchester mod 94. And please send me that ringtone!

    

  • do you know the difference between Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and Birchwood Casey Super Blue?

  • i have an m38 i picked up for $75...it shoots great and the innards are all great but the outside can use some help. there are some gouges/pitting on the receiver, how do you suggest i work them out?

  • Hey Iraqvet, I took the finish off of an old savage model 120 with hydrochloric acid...it came off in less than 5 minutes and it is cheap...check into it. It goes under the name muratic acid and you can buy a gallon for 5 bucks, and it eats rust like a mother. You could de-blue over 100 guns easily with that. Make sure you neutralize it to keep it from pitting the barrel. Baking soda should do it.

  • lol...I have a tattoo of Mario too...want me to make a video? lol

  • wal mart's an dick sporting goods around here dont care the 3 pack just the blue an rust and rust removel

  • awsome video man.. i sent u a message earlier about one of my m1 garands interesting!

  • the longer the video more interesting

  • I have some scratches on a barrel that I want to blue. How would you recommend smoothing those scratches out? With a grinding wheel, sand paper, other?

  • @brennanmba

    Before you do anything, try giving the area a little gentle pressure with some 0000 steel wool.

    If the scratches are still there and unsightly, you'll need to use some wet sandpaper and a little oil with something in the 220 grit range to polish out the scratches.

    A table mounted belt sander is preferrable.

    Make sure you degrease very good and clean the area before touching up with cold blue.

    Use the Super Blue if you are going to use Birchwood Casey products.

  • I want to blue a shotgun that was previously painted. Can you offer any suggestions for removing stubborn paint that the sandpaper doesn't reach?

  • Use some acetone to eat through stubborn paint and use your wire wheel on your bend grinder to polish the metal.

    Some 240 to 1200 grit sandpaper work wonders, too.

    Try the acetone first....

  • Thanks!

  • A few questions.

    Would there be an issue with using a small brass brush? can you polish the metal before using the blue remover? Is metal pans better to use over say glass pans( they cost the same at the second hand stores).

  • @eviljagtech

    You could use a small wire brush, but you are going to have a pickle of a time getting the metal to polish very well.

    Yes, you can polish the metal before using the bluing remover, but the bluing remover really helps.

    If glass is cheap, by all means, use it.

    I prefer metal, but that is just the way I do things.

    On a side note, you can parkerize small parts in an old microwave using glass dishes as long as the metal peice is completely covered....lol

  • @Iraqveteran8888 sir i started using the product but i noticed some parts are blued some are not, it is like color brown thing. i wonder what i did wrong with it. could you pls let me know what i did wrong.. tnx

  • haha, mario brothers ringtone...thanks for the vid.

  • Yeah I have a Mario 3 tattoo also...how nerdy is that? lol

  • Nother question, when you reblue the rifle how did you keep the bluing from entering the muzzle? Also, i'm going to completely redo a german k 98, the feed at the reciever goes about an inch deep, how should i block that so i can just get the spots i need to? One more thing, if the metal is parkerized, do you figure the blue remover will get it or am i gonna have to roll out the black and decker buffer wheel on this one?

  • Just be careful. If you really want to use them, Midwayusa sells plugs for the chamber and barrel made from scilicone.

    If you have parkerizied metal, I strongly encourage you degrease and duracoat.

  • Using an actual buffing wheel after wire wheeling makes for shiny metal too. Shiner the metal, the shinier the coat looks. It is a MUST that the metal be clean and free of any contaminates and oil for those that don't know. Check out my channel for not quite as in depth, but a re-blue project I undertook on an unsuspected rusty K31's barrel.

  • That's what I did on this one. Send me your video response so It will be here for others to see.

  • hey man, any idea how to remove parkerizing, if you want to blue something with this kit? great videos btw!

  • Good question...You have a CZ52 or something you want to refinish?

    I'll look into it and if I find a reasonable asnwer and can verify the results I will post a video.

    I plan on covering duracoat, parkerizing, and anodizing as time and funds permit.

  • a shooter m1 carbine actually. It's actually not the worst condition, same as your mauser, it's pretty alright, but its mixmaster, totally uncollectible, and i just like that deep blued look. alot of the deparkerizing methods often conflict with the rebluing, so perhaps it can be neutralised the same way you stop the bluing? if you get around to finding a way let me know mate.

  • Not sure...But I will investigate...Stay tuned.

  • Buffing the parts really is like night and day. Denatured Alcohol can be a good substitute for a cleaner/degreaser.

  • Yeah thats pretty much what is for the most part. Stay tuned...I'm uploading some new parts for this little series today. some shooting fun also.

  • Anyone ever tried acetone for cleaning/degreasing?

  • You may want to stick with denatured alcohol...

  • looks great man!

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