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  • Is this going to be indoor the whole time? What lights do you plan on using?

  • Vince, I'm having problems with my Bell Siphon.... it kicks in but won't stop draining. Any help would be appreciated.

  • @ZombieGreaser501

    I have found this is caused by 1 of 2 things (or both):

    1> the flow into the grow bed is too fast. fix this by slowly closing your ball valve feeding the GB. I do a small turn & then count 30 sec. repeat.

    However, a better way (i have found) is to find the equilibrium point of fill - that is the minimum amount of flow you need to keep the siphon from starting. In this state, the standpipe & the in-flow will =. Once there, move the ball valve just slightly open.

  • @ZombieGreaser501

    Assuming your in-flow is now *just enough* to start the siphon ("perfect")

    2> your horizontal drain pipe's rise to run is too steep downward (toward the f.tank). when the siphon kicks in, with your hand on the bottom of the horiz pipe, slowly lift the pipe up (when the bell begins to gurgle). You should then hear a large gulp of air come from the drain outlet (not the bell). This is your drain's "sweet spot". build blocking to support the horiz pipe at this level.

  • @VincentVonGoat

    I found the Sweet Spots in both! My drain pipe was too steep (toward my tank). I added a couple of elbows to easily adjust the angle, made a couple of adjustments, and BAM... IT BELCHED! Flow stopped!  Ran it all night, and it's been working perfectly! Thanks so much for your help.

  • @ZombieGreaser501

    the problem with horizontal drain pipe creates 2 situations that could be alleviated by designing the system as a "tub over tub" setup (GB directly over f.tank). In this setup, the drain is simply a straight pipe downward.

    the 2 problems seen by a horizontal drain are:

    1> constant run siphon (doesn't break) - your current problem

    2> siphon "breaks" but then only fills 3-5 inches of GB in a continuous loop. This is caused by a horizontal pipe higher at the drain end.

  • @ZombieGreaser501

    I forgot the most basic thing... the bell itself! You could do all of what I wrote previously & still be tearing your hair out with a constant run drain cycle.

    Ensure the bell has good clearance around your standpipe. My standpipe = 1/2" dia & I am using 1 1/2" dia bells. You could go to 2" dia bell this will increase the flow potential inside the bell over the top of the standpipe.

  • @ZombieGreaser501

    Another critical part is the minimum clearance between the top of the standpipe & the inside bottom of the bell. You need a minimum of 1/2", but I have found that 1" is ideal. My standpipe is 7" & the bell pipe is 8" long (bell pipe - not including the cap). When measuring your standpipe height - ensure to take into account any adapters, bushings, & threaded ends - as these will add to the standpipe height. It's best to dry fit it & then take your measurement.

  • Vince, how about small plastic "Baskets" filled with vermiculite, and set into the hydroton, to prevent the problems with lettuce and other small seeded/stemmed plants?

  • Nice Setup! I had the exact same thing happen to my goldfish from petsmart, I have no idea how it jump out.

  • i think i might try this myself

  • what a pro!

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