Added: 3 years ago
From: buchbinderbaumgartne
Views: 28,205
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  • I loved this! Thank you for making these! They were great, easy to follow, simple and yet they worked! I cant wait to try this out on my own!

  • impresionante!!!!!!! lo mejor que vi en youtube. un 10

  • This set of six video tutorials are the best I have ever come accross, detailed and clear. I have made several books of varying sizes as well as the pencil box featured in another of your videos - Thank you very much

  • Thanks a lot. This videos are great!

  • For the first time, I'm not intimidated about attempting to make a book! Thank you for the excellent series of videos.

  • superb...

  • Very informative, thank you!! I really enjoyed this!

  • I just made my first ever book! This tutorial was awesome!

  • I and My son put a cover for his brothers Maths book.Although it was not nice as yours we did our best. Thanks for your superb video.

  • Thanks so much... excellent!! the best on the web

  • My compliments, you have made it is Very clear.and concise. The best that I have found to date.

    I have some questions. :

    1). what is the name of glue you use.

    2) May I ask why you did not glue the spine of the book block into the the spine of the casing as well.

    3) If I fix the book block to a thick leather casing ( and spine) included, would one do the same process of attachement of the book block to leather as you explain for a hard cover. Regards, Lieuwina.

  • 1) The best glue is and will always be, for each kind of manual works, wood glue. I think it is. I advice you the UHU one.

    2) If you get a XVIII, XIX or this kind of book, you will find out that we don't do that. It would make the spine be broken very fast.

    I hope I've helped you. As far as I know, these are the answers to 1) and 2).

  • it's call planatol, it's a special glue for bookbinding

  • You're correct about the spine--the bookblock needs to be able to lift away from the case spine in order for the book to lay flat. But you're mistaken about the glue. There are many options out there, such was wheat paste, methyl cellulose, animal based glues, or synthetics like PVA. I find PVA to be the most common, as it requires no preparation, dries very fast, and is quite strong. It's main disadvantage is that it is not reversible if you're doing archival work.

  • Bekümmert, mein Deutsch ist schlecht. Ich Spreche Englisch besser. ;)

    Great series of videos! This is the best explanation I could find on the net. Thank you!

  • As a letterpress printer myself and having been in the trade or more than 20 years, this series of videos is excellent. Clear, precise and comprehensive. Well done.

  • great videos

  • Thank you!

  • The best of YouTube and the best of the Internet. Thanks- you're a terrific teacher.

  • Thank you very much! You make awesome videos! :D

  • marvelous thank you very much. My son and I have just made his first hardback book.

  • Thank you, thank you so much! Everything was perfectly explained! I learned a lot from this :)

  • My compliments/being a retired printer I adore this very professional demonstration. I have 50 books to bind and will try it as per your instructions. The fact that it can all be done by using A3 folded sheets makes it so practical, where even 4 colour photocopies can be used. for a small run. I may use leather outside (and spine) with gold lettering. Again thank you. Regards John

  • Is it possible to bind a book without having to fold the paper in half to make signatures? I asked because I'm planning on making a large book but I can't find paper big enough to fold in half and still be the right size for my taste. So I'm settling with printing paper, but that means I have to find a new binding method(which I hate b/c yours is so so so cool)

  • you must go for the japanese bookbinding for "free sheet".

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