Thanks! I love this car and i don't have a problem with the motor mounts but I did have to tie down the motor because my transmission kept cracking from the torque.
I am all about keeping a old car stock and I personally would keep the original rims but since you use this car at the strip and not just for driving around town, Your choice is the right one.
I feel the same way about old cars. That's my only reason why I'm changing out the rims because the tires I'm putting on the welds are going to be for strip use only. I'm not going to take them on the street. The rims and tires that are on it now will be for driving around town
No problem man. I was pretty sure you'd like it. I'll have it to the track within the next couple months and then I'll tell you when those videos are posted. I'm interested to know what it runs now.
Do you have specs on your engine rebuild posted anywhere? I've got the original 390 out of my car right now and need to come up with a plan one of these days! Did you go with some kind of adjustable valvetrain? Any advice or lessons learned would be appreciated!
My engine is stock except it has a 750 holley double pumper, a four barrel edelbrock intake, the cam has .560 lift and 244 duration, and dual valve springs. Everything came apart and went together pretty easily because the previous owner had refreshed it. A lesson I did learn is that the intake and the rear main seal both need to be packed with silicone or they'll leak and it's a pain when you get it all put back together and the rear main leaks. If you have any questions though just ask.
Oh I forgot to tell you that if you aren't using solid motor mounts that the engine will torque over too far and you'll crack your transmission. I cracked 3 before I figured that out. I tied the motor down by bolting a turnbuckle to the head and the frame. I got the turnbuckle for $10 at the hardware store and it fixed my tranny cracking problem but then I put a 4.71 gear in the rear end and I twisted the original driveshaft in half and had to have a stronger one made so keep that in mind too
kool merc...i think a set of magnum 5's on it wood do it rite ,,but thats just opinion
..i had a 69 merc 390..and wood always break the dam driver side motor mount ..
..i got a friend who has 2 67 mercs ..both [S 55'S] .....GOOD LUCK WITH IT
390merc65 2 years ago
Thanks! I love this car and i don't have a problem with the motor mounts but I did have to tie down the motor because my transmission kept cracking from the torque.
Parklane390 2 years ago
Are you planning on leaving the rims the way they are or are you planning on putting mags on it?
JohnBull1889 2 years ago
I have a set of welds for it with e.t. streets already mounted on them and ready to go on the car.
Parklane390 2 years ago
I am all about keeping a old car stock and I personally would keep the original rims but since you use this car at the strip and not just for driving around town, Your choice is the right one.
JohnBull1889 2 years ago
I feel the same way about old cars. That's my only reason why I'm changing out the rims because the tires I'm putting on the welds are going to be for strip use only. I'm not going to take them on the street. The rims and tires that are on it now will be for driving around town
Parklane390 2 years ago
Thanks for the info! Have fun at the track with torque monster!
DomainDuSac 2 years ago
Sounds awesome and looks quick - Thanks for sharing!
DomainDuSac 2 years ago
No problem man. I was pretty sure you'd like it. I'll have it to the track within the next couple months and then I'll tell you when those videos are posted. I'm interested to know what it runs now.
Parklane390 2 years ago
Do you have specs on your engine rebuild posted anywhere? I've got the original 390 out of my car right now and need to come up with a plan one of these days! Did you go with some kind of adjustable valvetrain? Any advice or lessons learned would be appreciated!
DomainDuSac 2 years ago
My engine is stock except it has a 750 holley double pumper, a four barrel edelbrock intake, the cam has .560 lift and 244 duration, and dual valve springs. Everything came apart and went together pretty easily because the previous owner had refreshed it. A lesson I did learn is that the intake and the rear main seal both need to be packed with silicone or they'll leak and it's a pain when you get it all put back together and the rear main leaks. If you have any questions though just ask.
Parklane390 2 years ago
Oh I forgot to tell you that if you aren't using solid motor mounts that the engine will torque over too far and you'll crack your transmission. I cracked 3 before I figured that out. I tied the motor down by bolting a turnbuckle to the head and the frame. I got the turnbuckle for $10 at the hardware store and it fixed my tranny cracking problem but then I put a 4.71 gear in the rear end and I twisted the original driveshaft in half and had to have a stronger one made so keep that in mind too
Parklane390 2 years ago
And the block was bored .030 over by the previous owner when he refreshed it and I use a C-6 with a 3500 stall converter.
Parklane390 2 years ago