@inverseroom I have a tank for 1 120 roll. If the tank says "590ml for 1 120/220, should I measure each chemical in a measuring cylinder first before pouring it into the tank or can I pour in each chemical until the tank is almost full?
In the original incarnation of this process, which was the old Unicolor Rapid Scan 41, there was no stabilizer step needed. After the Blix, you just rinsed it in water for 2-minutes, then put it in the dryer, so I'm sure you can still do this. Also, you can push with this process. For a 1-stop push add 30-seconds to the developer time, and as a rule of thumb, and additional 15-seconds for each stop after that.
If you want the "Jessops 1L Photochemicals / Developing Accordion Bottle" that he has. You will have to look at over seas. I have found that if you look up " air reduction chemical bottles" on Google you will find them. If you wanted to know about this give this a thumbs up.
Thanks for the great video I developed a 35mm film yesterday. It worked out great but I guess I didn't wash it after using the blix and got some stains over the film. I would try again.
@reprographiste don't know, today i bought solutions to make 2 liters, and they told me that you can reuse the already deluted chemicals for a maximum of 4 times, and according to my tank, it will last 21-26 35mm rolls to develop.
...even with the fare (dust and scratch removal) from my scanner i can already see 50+ scratches :S, and other day, they gave me perfectly developed negatives, beautiful colors, contrast, just amazing, so i wanna do it myself, i can't trust some dirty mexican lab now, and i wanna know, if those pinkish negs were product of just one minute with lower temperatures or so, please answer i'm kinda desperate though LOL and i cannot find any example in the web, just B&W ones...
...more colors and beautiful contrast, some negs appear pinkish instead of brown/orange (i know, WTF?), it's a different story with each lab, i just found one that does it perfectly but sometimes they leave their fingerprints on them or scratches, the other lab, i don't know were it is located, because i went to a lab that sends the negs to 4-6 different labs, some do it uglier, some not; once they scratched my neg as if a cat was playing with them, no kidding, half of my pics were scratches!...
i want to know what happens if some variants change, I mean, if i do this but the temperature at the last 1 minute and the developer gets cold (first chemical) by one degree, what happens? do my negatives don't show full highlights?, and if it gets hotter by one degree at the last minute, just if the water gets the chem warmer, do i get more contrast? I just need to know what happens, because at every lab i give mi negs, some appear transparent (even the words at the sides "KODAK") some show...
This worked really well! I developed two rolls of C-41 in Tetenal's 1-litre kit . I used to temper a running water bath and develop the rolls in 30 C, giving you an 8 minutes developing time. This method just plain sucks, it takes some 15 minutes to temper the bath and the chemistry.
This was much much quicker, and the negatives look really good, I hope the scanning turns out great too :) I also did it in 38 C to avoid any larger temperature drops during the developing, that's my idea anyway.
Great video, very helpful! Could you please tell me, do you know if its normal that my negatives bend and curl a lot when drying, its Kodak Portra 160VC.
@periagoge Use two clips when you're drying your film - one to hang it from and the other to act as a weight to hold it straight. Leave it hanging for about twice the amount of time it takes for the film to dry and hey presto, your negative should be nice and straight ;)
Back in the 1980's I jumped right into E6 slide processing. I invested $300 in a tank, motor base, reels, timer, etc. I still have a film cassette loader and I'm thinking about converting an ice chest, plastic basin, aquarium heater and water pump into a processing tank. I rediscovered my Canon A1's and they still work.
Please excuse the fact that I probably sound very unintelligent- I am incredibly new to all of this. So, how come the room you were in wasn't dark? Is it only when the film is hanging and drying that it has to be dark, or this another method. Like I said, I know nothing about this. :D
loading the 35mm film onto the rolls requires you to do so in a completely light-tight room. after loading the film onto the rolls and placing them inside the canister, they are protected from the light and are fine after the chemical process.
@sidneywatts42 Your ability to enlarge the image on the film is going to be limited by the film grain. It is unlikely that somebody taking up an insignificant portion of the film will be clearly enlargeable due to the film grain. This process is a particularly poor choice for film where your goal is to enlarge significantly to a small part of the film because using blix rather than separate bleach and fixer steps enlarges the appearance of film grain.
Thanks for the video. Hopefully someone can answer a question I have. What do I need to print the film? What kind of enlarger? What chemicals? I've done several semesters of B&W way back in high school. Is it the same, like D-76 and so on?
@Plissken07, look for the book "John Hedgcoe's Complete Photography Course" or the "Amateur's Guide to Photography".
I read an article in Peterson's Photography magazine in the late 79 or early 80, about E6 processing, and self-taught myself to do it, by doing a few dry runs, before getting wet with the chemicals. Just study it, buy the stuff and do it.
E6 is the same way. You just need different chemicals.
Do not wash after the stabilizer. The stabilizer functions to reduce fading (as is the case with the old formaldehyde based stabilizers and some new propietary ones) but most importantly to function as a bacteriostat to prevent things from literally eating your film. The stabilizer must be the last thing to touch your film. Try mixing from distilled water.
Forget the sqeegee which can damage your film easily. Also the containers will just add oxigen in the developer. Use a regular bottle with Vacuvin or a inert gas to keep the oxigen out. After the stabilizer do not wash anymore. The stabilizer will stabilize the color couplers and a wetting agent is already in the stabilizer.
Only the developer temperature is critical. You need an acurate thermometer too.
You can get the storage containers for the chemicals and the developing box on ebay.
It's necessary to buy these things because the containers for chemicals need to be impermeable to light and air.
You also need stuff like a timer and a thermometer.
If you'd never developed by hand before, you should read more tutorials and books with step-by-step instructions.Maybe you can borrow them in a public library or search for them on the internet.
the $20 kit on BH will come with the packets you need to make the developer, the blix, and the stabilizer. The kit doesn't come with a developing tank, nor does it come with the chemical bottles.
@mariafferrnanda you will also need a thermometer, 3 one liter containers, possibly a funnel (i made a makeshift one out of half of a spray bottle duct taped to a straw), and you will need a film tank system (the big black thing), film tanks are like 20 dollars. some masks wouldn't hurt, as those chemicals are REALLY BAD while you're mixing them (gave me a headache). and a timekeeping device. thanks for the great video inverseroom, i developed my color film successfully!
Excellent tutorial! I did a lot of B&W developing when I was in high school last year & took advantage of their lab. Now that I'm setting up a bathroom darkroom, developing color would be handy to know how to do too.
I've been considering using it for 4x5 too...I mean, if you're using 4x5 print, it should work just the same. I guess you'd just have pour the chemicals in a tray if you plan on doing tray processing.
Stabilizer is there to stabilize the film after process, because colour films are not as stabile as silver on B&W. It is not like fix, more like wetting agent for B&W.
Bleach is there to work like fix.
Color negs are processed so that when the silver negative image forms, also colour dyes form under the silver grains. The silver image needs to be bleached to have the colour image visible and after bleaching it is fixed, so that light wouldn't form a foggy silver image.
Nice vedio! I've developed my c-41 films successfully with the same press kit. Thank you so much. It can help more people if different languages are available. Do you mind if I download the film and translate to our language, then post it back to youtube? Every screen will keep the same, only the voice is changed to local language. Regards/Stone
Hello. I'm a little new to developing film. In this video, the chemicals are all returned to their bottles. Does this mean that the chemicals are reusable? if so, how many times can you re-use them before they are "expired"?
I have one question though, if you don't mind. In your experience, how many times did you reuse the chemicals, and do they expire if they are not used for a while?
this really is a great tutorial...had read about these press-kits, but this video clarifies the process. bought this kit a few weeks ago and have been able to cross process about 8 rolls of slides and counting!
well its better than buying a new DSLR since I got an old rebel G in the closet that came around the time of the decline of film great camera but its film @ least the lenes are compatible with the new DSLR's I think except theres no IMS (image stabilization : (
Cool tutorial. I had no idea color could be as easy as black and white. I've also wanted to try cross-processing but the photo labs around me wouldn't do it. Now I can at home!
im just starting and am concerned about the water tmeperature, how can you ensure that it remains at 100F for sucha long time? (does it only need to be constant temp. for the developing part, not blix?)
Quite a nice tutorial, C41 indeed is this easy, but:
NEVER RINSE THE FILM AFTER THE STABILIZER. It may somewhat decrease the dye stability. If you want your films to last for tens of years with no fading, then this may be important. Stabilizer has also a wetting agent in it to help drying, don't use photo flo. Wash your hands after handling stabilizer since it may contain small amounts of formaldehyde.
If you re-use blix it is also recommended to use stop bath and rinse between dev and blix.
Thank you! So far my negs still look good after a few months, but I will stop rinsing after the stabilizer. I do wish the kit was more specific about this--the instructions leave the process open-ended.
I am not using stop bath, but after a dozen rolls I have begun to extend the times a little. Results continue to be good...I'm keeping the air out of the containers, and assume that this is helping.
@inverseroom This needs to be done in a darkroom, right? Or do you only do the spooling in the darkroom and then all this can be done in plain light? Sorry if I sound noobish, but I'm just getting into learning how to develop film... I'm a young film enthusiast with no experience in developing film... cept for taking the rolls to the lab, but they always do a sub par job for me nowadays compared to my dad's old prints and negatives.
Only the spooling needs to be done in the darkroom. After that, the container that the film goes in is light tight, and only your chemicals can get into it.
I noticed your using the 2 Liter C41 kit. How many rolls do you usually develop at once? And do you use Arista Air-Evac Bottle 2 Liter containers? Lastly, what kind of changing bag do you use? Thanx
I usually do two rolls at a time in a Patterson tank, and I'm using the one-liter air-evac containers here. I actually split the 2-liter kit in half, only mixing one liter at a time. I'm well past the ten or so rolls you're supposed to get out of one liter of this stuff. My changing back is one of those pop-up "changing rooms."
This a good reference for anyone who may doubt their ability to develop their own colour film at home ... this really does demonstrate how easy it is to do.
you should make more speaking videos.
mwinahaha 1 week ago in playlist More videos from inverseroom
@inverseroom I have a tank for 1 120 roll. If the tank says "590ml for 1 120/220, should I measure each chemical in a measuring cylinder first before pouring it into the tank or can I pour in each chemical until the tank is almost full?
blueskyandhardrock 1 week ago
He makes it seem so easy... =.=
pjspelce 3 weeks ago
In the original incarnation of this process, which was the old Unicolor Rapid Scan 41, there was no stabilizer step needed. After the Blix, you just rinsed it in water for 2-minutes, then put it in the dryer, so I'm sure you can still do this. Also, you can push with this process. For a 1-stop push add 30-seconds to the developer time, and as a rule of thumb, and additional 15-seconds for each stop after that.
jamiegottagunATyahoo 1 month ago
YOUR VOICE ROCKS!!!
MrSnapFlash 3 months ago
@MrSnapFlash Yeah, you're cooler that the other side of the pillow.
SenorCajones 2 months ago
what do you do to dispose of spent chemicals? like im not gonna dump something with dissolved metals down the drain!
themadscientest 3 months ago
@themadscientest Throw it in your grub infested garden.
SenorCajones 2 months ago
@SenorCajones i live in nj, i dont need more dissolved metals in my ground water.
themadscientest 2 months ago
@themadscientest Are you like 14? You do realize that you are supposed to capitalize "I" when it's used as a first person pronoun, right?
SenorCajones 2 months ago
@SenorCajones Bro, its time to realize than just because you wear diapers like a baby you don't get to throw tantrums like one.
U23Drocs 1 month ago
after the first develope, my stabilizer get a palid purple color, this is normal?
jeanarq 3 months ago
@jeanarq better the stabilizer gets purple than you, bro.
SenorCajones 2 months ago
You are a god amongst men...
DackIsBack 5 months ago
If you want the "Jessops 1L Photochemicals / Developing Accordion Bottle" that he has. You will have to look at over seas. I have found that if you look up " air reduction chemical bottles" on Google you will find them. If you wanted to know about this give this a thumbs up.
Jawsjawsjawsrg 5 months ago 20
iphoto
SaypheZonE 6 months ago
see nothing was said previously about the pre-soak and what was used in it? soap? what kinda of soap? dish soap? baby soap?
KeithWasHere1 6 months ago
@KeithWasHere1 I pre-soak in just water, but I haven't done colour yet, just black and white, I'd imagine it's the same.
netando 4 months ago
where do you get the accordion style containers?
KeithWasHere1 6 months ago
Thanks for the great video I developed a 35mm film yesterday. It worked out great but I guess I didn't wash it after using the blix and got some stains over the film. I would try again.
presci00 6 months ago
@presci00 you WOULD have to try again, cause you failed.
millsy351 5 months ago
Good film - made more exciting by your "A-Team" voice
philiphoward123 6 months ago 3
How do you know when the developer is exhausted?
reprographiste 6 months ago
@reprographiste don't know, today i bought solutions to make 2 liters, and they told me that you can reuse the already deluted chemicals for a maximum of 4 times, and according to my tank, it will last 21-26 35mm rolls to develop.
rick92rr 6 months ago
...even with the fare (dust and scratch removal) from my scanner i can already see 50+ scratches :S, and other day, they gave me perfectly developed negatives, beautiful colors, contrast, just amazing, so i wanna do it myself, i can't trust some dirty mexican lab now, and i wanna know, if those pinkish negs were product of just one minute with lower temperatures or so, please answer i'm kinda desperate though LOL and i cannot find any example in the web, just B&W ones...
Thanks!
rick92rr 7 months ago
...more colors and beautiful contrast, some negs appear pinkish instead of brown/orange (i know, WTF?), it's a different story with each lab, i just found one that does it perfectly but sometimes they leave their fingerprints on them or scratches, the other lab, i don't know were it is located, because i went to a lab that sends the negs to 4-6 different labs, some do it uglier, some not; once they scratched my neg as if a cat was playing with them, no kidding, half of my pics were scratches!...
rick92rr 7 months ago
i want to know what happens if some variants change, I mean, if i do this but the temperature at the last 1 minute and the developer gets cold (first chemical) by one degree, what happens? do my negatives don't show full highlights?, and if it gets hotter by one degree at the last minute, just if the water gets the chem warmer, do i get more contrast? I just need to know what happens, because at every lab i give mi negs, some appear transparent (even the words at the sides "KODAK") some show...
rick92rr 7 months ago
Can it be used to develop motion picture film?
What would happen to the audio then? (I'm talking about 70's, 60's, 50's an WW2-era films)
MiracleKD18 7 months ago
how many rolls of colour 120 film would this kit be able to develop?
jono03 7 months ago
This worked really well! I developed two rolls of C-41 in Tetenal's 1-litre kit . I used to temper a running water bath and develop the rolls in 30 C, giving you an 8 minutes developing time. This method just plain sucks, it takes some 15 minutes to temper the bath and the chemistry.
This was much much quicker, and the negatives look really good, I hope the scanning turns out great too :) I also did it in 38 C to avoid any larger temperature drops during the developing, that's my idea anyway.
P55CxE9 7 months ago
what the hell maan.. :|
XxXdragurlifeXxX 7 months ago
great video! i just developed my first c41 using this video.. the results look good!
adithya77 7 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
where do you buy your color film that works with this process?
the box seems to only list b&w.
jessicalynne4291 8 months ago
where do you buy your color film that works with this process?
the box seems to only list b&w.
jessicalynne4291 8 months ago
you speak with such intensity, it makes everything better.
taneahynes 8 months ago 50
@taneahynes sounds like Patrick Bateman!
Alzdr 4 months ago
@Alzdr My god it does!
BTCSUK 3 months ago
@Alzdr Yeah, or Christian Baleman
SenorCajones 2 months ago
Thank you!! Your video inspired me to start home processing ans now I am hooked! Processed about 10 rolls or color so far and a couple of B&W.
Thanks for posting!
smokyjee 8 months ago
Comment removed
periagoge 9 months ago
Comment removed
periagoge 9 months ago
Great video, very helpful! Could you please tell me, do you know if its normal that my negatives bend and curl a lot when drying, its Kodak Portra 160VC.
periagoge 9 months ago
@periagoge Use two clips when you're drying your film - one to hang it from and the other to act as a weight to hold it straight. Leave it hanging for about twice the amount of time it takes for the film to dry and hey presto, your negative should be nice and straight ;)
TanabiSimba 9 months ago
How do you put the film into the spool?
idosinpich 10 months ago
THANKS SO MUCH,,,,i really do appreciate your teaching
hellorodney 10 months ago
b/w is b/w
melkor65 10 months ago
Thanks a million for this. I've developed black and white all the time, but never knew color was this easy!
5hudsonc 11 months ago
does this tetenal devloping kit come with all the chemicals you need for this process?
keatensaba 1 year ago
This is definitely helpful, and I'm willing to do it, I just have NO idea where to find a kit like that.
No where. And how the hell do you even print!?!
thenamesbanana 1 year ago
I have a 35mm I just used and it's a light brown color, no sign of any images? Have I done something wrong here?
arrisfilms 1 year ago
How long does the kit last on average? More specifically, how long does it last if I develop about 3 rolls a month?
kbs1212 1 year ago
Thanks, I have been searching for this since a while now !
JimWow66 1 year ago
Hi there...
Been trying to find some C-41 for some time now... Where do you get your Unicolor kits?? thanks
huneprut 1 year ago
Back in the 1980's I jumped right into E6 slide processing. I invested $300 in a tank, motor base, reels, timer, etc. I still have a film cassette loader and I'm thinking about converting an ice chest, plastic basin, aquarium heater and water pump into a processing tank. I rediscovered my Canon A1's and they still work.
borderraven 1 year ago
is C41 color film or color B&W film?
rockerbmg666 1 year ago
@rockerbmg666 either... is usually associated with color
zekedude95 1 year ago
@rockerbmg666 C-41 is a color process. There are B&W Films that are processed with C-41.
FullArius 1 year ago
@FullArius Yeah I ordered my self a kit to develope my color 120film c-41, but I was making sure wanted to be safe than sorry,thanks
rockerbmg666 1 year ago
Please excuse the fact that I probably sound very unintelligent- I am incredibly new to all of this. So, how come the room you were in wasn't dark? Is it only when the film is hanging and drying that it has to be dark, or this another method. Like I said, I know nothing about this. :D
graceheartsart 1 year ago
@graceheartsart for part of the process, yes.
loading the 35mm film onto the rolls requires you to do so in a completely light-tight room. after loading the film onto the rolls and placing them inside the canister, they are protected from the light and are fine after the chemical process.
mafiaslicka 1 year ago
@mafiaslicka awesome, thanks so much. XD
graceheartsart 1 year ago
@sidneywatts42 Yes. If it's small rather than tiny on the film it may enlarge OK,
enlargement brings out imperfections in the film that obscure the enlarged image.
asherael 1 year ago
Any intructions for sheet film?
dizkoteck 1 year ago
@sidneywatts42 Your ability to enlarge the image on the film is going to be limited by the film grain. It is unlikely that somebody taking up an insignificant portion of the film will be clearly enlargeable due to the film grain. This process is a particularly poor choice for film where your goal is to enlarge significantly to a small part of the film because using blix rather than separate bleach and fixer steps enlarges the appearance of film grain.
asherael 1 year ago
Thanks for the video. Hopefully someone can answer a question I have. What do I need to print the film? What kind of enlarger? What chemicals? I've done several semesters of B&W way back in high school. Is it the same, like D-76 and so on?
Plissken07 1 year ago
@Plissken07, look for the book "John Hedgcoe's Complete Photography Course" or the "Amateur's Guide to Photography".
I read an article in Peterson's Photography magazine in the late 79 or early 80, about E6 processing, and self-taught myself to do it, by doing a few dry runs, before getting wet with the chemicals. Just study it, buy the stuff and do it.
borderraven 1 year ago
sorry this must be a really stupid question but. how do i print the film?
1ockedand1oaded 1 year ago
@1ockedand1oaded A normal flatbed scanner with negative capabilities.
globethrottle 1 year ago
102F = 39C / 95F = 35.C
Normanskie 1 year ago
Really great video! Man, i've got to try this! Doesn't look a lot more difficult than BW processing!
troelsim 1 year ago
Can you process 2 different film speed ( 400 and 800 ) in the same tank at the same time?!
poutine4ever 1 year ago
Lol his sink crystalized. But nice tutorial.
riccifilippo 1 year ago
can you buy this kit at Samy's Camera?
chunkychon 1 year ago
Very helpfull, thank you. I have put this method on practice with great results
Inurii 1 year ago
BTW it's 3.25 minutes, not 3.5 mintues.
E6 is the same way. You just need different chemicals.
Do not wash after the stabilizer. The stabilizer functions to reduce fading (as is the case with the old formaldehyde based stabilizers and some new propietary ones) but most importantly to function as a bacteriostat to prevent things from literally eating your film. The stabilizer must be the last thing to touch your film. Try mixing from distilled water.
awkpidgin 1 year ago
Forget the sqeegee which can damage your film easily. Also the containers will just add oxigen in the developer. Use a regular bottle with Vacuvin or a inert gas to keep the oxigen out. After the stabilizer do not wash anymore. The stabilizer will stabilize the color couplers and a wetting agent is already in the stabilizer.
Only the developer temperature is critical. You need an acurate thermometer too.
FotohuisRoVo 1 year ago
thanks...excellent work.
if you ever get time an e6 or cross process guide would be fantastic.
antiochus66 1 year ago
How many rolls can you developp with 1 set ? (can you keep the chimicals for a long time ?)
tiborr 1 year ago
Man, I'm gonna try this out. Thanks for posting and sharing!
badmemory 2 years ago
where can ya get the kit?? i dont have a credit card, so i cant buy it online...but are therer stores tht sell that kit??
victorialove360 2 years ago
I'd look for a camera store near where you're located. If they don't have it in stock, I'm sure they can order it for you.
spandaucrockett 2 years ago
wait so..that kit..like the one they sell in bhphoto..contains EVERYTHING you see in the video? like i only have to buy that 20$ kit..
im confused D:
mariafferrnanda 2 years ago 8
These kits normally contain only the chemicals.
You can get the storage containers for the chemicals and the developing box on ebay.
It's necessary to buy these things because the containers for chemicals need to be impermeable to light and air.
You also need stuff like a timer and a thermometer.
If you'd never developed by hand before, you should read more tutorials and books with step-by-step instructions.Maybe you can borrow them in a public library or search for them on the internet.
EgonChile1979 2 years ago
the $20 kit on BH will come with the packets you need to make the developer, the blix, and the stabilizer. The kit doesn't come with a developing tank, nor does it come with the chemical bottles.
spandaucrockett 2 years ago
@mariafferrnanda you will also need a thermometer, 3 one liter containers, possibly a funnel (i made a makeshift one out of half of a spray bottle duct taped to a straw), and you will need a film tank system (the big black thing), film tanks are like 20 dollars. some masks wouldn't hurt, as those chemicals are REALLY BAD while you're mixing them (gave me a headache). and a timekeeping device. thanks for the great video inverseroom, i developed my color film successfully!
druszaj 1 year ago
Excellent tutorial! I did a lot of B&W developing when I was in high school last year & took advantage of their lab. Now that I'm setting up a bathroom darkroom, developing color would be handy to know how to do too.
mouthbreather1 2 years ago
Im thinking of getting the same kit youre showing. How are the instructions on the box? Will that container work with 4x5?
dizkoteck 2 years ago
I've been considering using it for 4x5 too...I mean, if you're using 4x5 print, it should work just the same. I guess you'd just have pour the chemicals in a tray if you plan on doing tray processing.
spandaucrockett 2 years ago
I just got the stuff to develop today! I developed a test roll today and it turned out great! I was weary since I never did it before.
akamaru3 2 years ago
anyone know how to do this without a kit? Like so i can just get a gallon of the chemical and use it rather then mixing it and stuff.
jtoznel 2 years ago
C41 (like E6 for slides) is a standard process that has the same dev times for any film. Yes it works for any C41 film.
I would also consider the Fujihunt kit with bleach and fix in own solutions, but Tetenal should work pretty much just as well.
BTW Apug forums are a good source for more detailed info.
svitantti 2 years ago
Stabilizer is there to stabilize the film after process, because colour films are not as stabile as silver on B&W. It is not like fix, more like wetting agent for B&W.
Bleach is there to work like fix.
Color negs are processed so that when the silver negative image forms, also colour dyes form under the silver grains. The silver image needs to be bleached to have the colour image visible and after bleaching it is fixed, so that light wouldn't form a foggy silver image.
svitantti 2 years ago
Stabiliser is a different name for fixer or they are totally different?
Hamedmasoumi 2 years ago
Is it good with any film? Or do I have to buy certain film.
akanathan 2 years ago
Nah any film.
FadedMyxomatosis 2 years ago
nope not ay film, only colour film, or chromogene film (although slidefilm also works just fine in cross processing)
Pinguing1 2 years ago
nice one cheer 4 that...
salimah1972 2 years ago
Nice vedio! I've developed my c-41 films successfully with the same press kit. Thank you so much. It can help more people if different languages are available. Do you mind if I download the film and translate to our language, then post it back to youtube? Every screen will keep the same, only the voice is changed to local language. Regards/Stone
stonetubing 2 years ago
Hello. I'm a little new to developing film. In this video, the chemicals are all returned to their bottles. Does this mean that the chemicals are reusable? if so, how many times can you re-use them before they are "expired"?
phoenixfalcons 2 years ago
1 litre aprox. 8 rolls 2 litre aprx 16 rolls but I can get more.
paintballpro289 2 years ago
I got my kit on ebay, but there are some other places that sell it, just search c-41 developing kit on google and you should find it no problem
sweaterbuddies 2 years ago
Where can I get this kit?
EpiphoneSG95 2 years ago
Comment removed
tele3phono 2 years ago
great video
i have a question...... where can i buy the kit you used in the video????????
tele3phono 2 years ago
This is great, thanks for sharing!
I have one question though, if you don't mind. In your experience, how many times did you reuse the chemicals, and do they expire if they are not used for a while?
Thank you!
mandycri 2 years ago
this really is a great tutorial...had read about these press-kits, but this video clarifies the process. bought this kit a few weeks ago and have been able to cross process about 8 rolls of slides and counting!
spandaucrockett 2 years ago
well its better than buying a new DSLR since I got an old rebel G in the closet that came around the time of the decline of film great camera but its film @ least the lenes are compatible with the new DSLR's I think except theres no IMS (image stabilization : (
Thegamer5150 2 years ago
Cool tutorial. I had no idea color could be as easy as black and white. I've also wanted to try cross-processing but the photo labs around me wouldn't do it. Now I can at home!
Oplem 2 years ago
is there any vide about E6 prosses???
kiparisia 2 years ago
wow ! i'm developing b&w since some months but i'll also give color a try for sure ! thanx for the tutorial :)
kicix 2 years ago
HI,
Thanks for the excellent and very informative video.
What is the shelf life after the initial mix?
You suggest liter size kit but, why not having gallon size and dividing it into 3 air sealed bottles?
Is Shelf life after mix the reason prevents doing so?
-b.
uniqua97 2 years ago
this is the only c41 tutorial I can find on youtube. The kit you mention really simplifies things. I hope to try it soon.
firehandszarb 2 years ago
also, ive purchased seperate bleach and fixer, is the process any different?
and one last thing.. (!), will i have to rinse with water between each stage to stop contaminaiton when i reuse developer/bleach/fixer.
somebody who knows what im talking about please help me!
(great video otehrwsie though, still very useful, depite what it may seem!)
thankyou- Joe
Wheatley136 2 years ago
im just starting and am concerned about the water tmeperature, how can you ensure that it remains at 100F for sucha long time? (does it only need to be constant temp. for the developing part, not blix?)
Wheatley136 2 years ago
Comment removed
manonthedollar 2 years ago
Thanks man, you ROCK
fangooroo 2 years ago
Thank you for this Ive been looking for detailed instructions on this for quite a while.
theknownunsoldier 3 years ago
Quite a nice tutorial, C41 indeed is this easy, but:
NEVER RINSE THE FILM AFTER THE STABILIZER. It may somewhat decrease the dye stability. If you want your films to last for tens of years with no fading, then this may be important. Stabilizer has also a wetting agent in it to help drying, don't use photo flo. Wash your hands after handling stabilizer since it may contain small amounts of formaldehyde.
If you re-use blix it is also recommended to use stop bath and rinse between dev and blix.
siwastaja 3 years ago 15
Thank you! So far my negs still look good after a few months, but I will stop rinsing after the stabilizer. I do wish the kit was more specific about this--the instructions leave the process open-ended.
I am not using stop bath, but after a dozen rolls I have begun to extend the times a little. Results continue to be good...I'm keeping the air out of the containers, and assume that this is helping.
inverseroom 3 years ago 3
@inverseroom This needs to be done in a darkroom, right? Or do you only do the spooling in the darkroom and then all this can be done in plain light? Sorry if I sound noobish, but I'm just getting into learning how to develop film... I'm a young film enthusiast with no experience in developing film... cept for taking the rolls to the lab, but they always do a sub par job for me nowadays compared to my dad's old prints and negatives.
djbones666 1 year ago
@djbones666
Only the spooling needs to be done in the darkroom. After that, the container that the film goes in is light tight, and only your chemicals can get into it.
KatakiUchiha 1 year ago
I'd like to point out that you shouldn't wash the film after using stabilisator. The stabilisator is meant to be left on the film.
Washing the film after stab will make the films less stabile.
svitantti 3 years ago
I'm going to try this at home. Looks fun.
I noticed your using the 2 Liter C41 kit. How many rolls do you usually develop at once? And do you use Arista Air-Evac Bottle 2 Liter containers? Lastly, what kind of changing bag do you use? Thanx
bayernstuttgart 3 years ago
I usually do two rolls at a time in a Patterson tank, and I'm using the one-liter air-evac containers here. I actually split the 2-liter kit in half, only mixing one liter at a time. I'm well past the ten or so rolls you're supposed to get out of one liter of this stuff. My changing back is one of those pop-up "changing rooms."
inverseroom 3 years ago
Thanks for the video. I just did it, really helpful
koolkit 3 years ago
Thanks!!!
Got to try this!
Alfred RFF
1alfred 3 years ago
Great stuff and many thanks for sharing. I have a feeling I could give this a go myself being confident with BW development already.
Vicky (LilSerenity at RFF)
LilSerenity1983 3 years ago
This a good reference for anyone who may doubt their ability to develop their own colour film at home ... this really does demonstrate how easy it is to do.
Thank ... from Keith RFF
wheelie52 3 years ago