Added: 1 year ago
From: dejilted
Views: 60,788
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  • Hey can you please tell me exactly what parts you got for your vehicle, we have the same vehicle and the same shaking in the front tires is happening to me too. Can you please send me a link of what you purchased bushings and control arms both please and thank you would mean a lot!

  • did this 4 times already. I don't take out the sway bar, pita to put back

  • Keep more of these videos coming. Great video! Informative, good speech and music! Thank you!

  • great voice and sweet ass vid i'v been saving it for years and just changed my controll arm's and used this perticular vid for the install... mad love bro

  • what happened to your hair?

    

  • @sunnyjason Your sister.

  • now i know how... nuffsaid!

  • I don't have an E36 but this video is really great! Awesome video and editing work, and the voice-over and music are very soothing, making me think that doing this, or any BMW job will be a breeze. Thanks!

  • @e34west Thanks :)

  • excellent vid bro..nice e36 too ;)

  • This is a great video, I used this for myt 96 bmw 318ti. Make sure to use a ball joint seperator, and plenty of lube. Torque down ball joint spray lube, wait a minute the ball joints dont drop so easy, apply lots of pressure, it will drop out, under lots of pressure. A pickle fork tool does work good on the center control arm ball joint, but not outter tie rod and ball joint, the video makes it looks easy. The rear bushings has to be pressed back on. This is still a grat video.

  • Great vid

  • NOW I CAN REMOVE IT BY MY SELF

    MANY THANKS FROM THE NETHERLANDS

  • He doesn't mention the most difficult parts of doing this job. You can't just undo the balljoints & hey presto!, off they come! They are tapered & can be a real bastard to get off, especially the outer one. You also need to press out the bush from the "lollipop" as he calls it, & press in new ones if you're gonna do the job properly. Don't get me wrong, it's a handy guide but a bit misleading in terms of difficulty. You don't need to remove the anti roll bar either (sway bar).

  • @TheMegsie1 I am describing the steps necessary to disassemble the construction and perform the job. When was the last time you read a labor manual bitching about how hard tapered assemblies fuse?

    I can point these things out in the future, but this isn't the intent of the video. I think most people performing their own control arm swaps know these things. I suppose a constructive comment I could have made is the use of a tie-rod separator. However, mine didn't fit, simple as that.

  • @TheMegsie1 Additionally, the lollipops most often come with bushings pre-installed, this was the part-set used in the video, this is the reason for not mentioning it.

  • It's worth mentioning that it's possible to buy the very same LCAs with pre-installed bushings.

  • @roddenshaw He does!!!

  • @laurieh he mentions that you can get them for the E46, however E36 control arms are available with pre-pressed bushings.

  • @roddenshaw Wasn't aware. Nice!

  • Cheers man very helpful. Nice to see it done without a lift!!

  • Cheer man. Good instruction. Doing mine tomorrow!

  • I hope it is as simple as it looks...well, I know it's not going to, but thanx though. Videos like this one inspire you to take on the job yourself. All I need to do is buy the controling arms, links, and also tie rods and get to work cause my shit is rattling!!

  • @username7642 Half the battle is knowing what to do and having the right attitude about it.

  • This must be the best DIY i've ever seen! Do some more of them!

  • @exwimboy With the amount of compliments I get on this one, I just might.

  •  I WILL DO THE SAME ,THX FOR VID.

  • That was awesome man, very helpful. Rebuild your whole car and post similar videos! Also show all this awesome feedback to some potential sponsors and get them to endorse your videos and pay for your restoration.

  • @durtysoufcraka Sold it. But no worries, I work for FCP Stores and we have a community strategy in place to sponsor videos like these more and more.

  • The best video, audio and naration in you tube, cool looking hair as well.

    thanks alot and keep up with other works pls

  • @herysis Thanks!

  • you need to do more vids like this, they're very helpful.

  • @makemyownpath Will do.

  • How did you remove the 22mm bolt holding the control arm in there? Did it help by removing the sway bar to get this out?

  • @defkon99 Yeah, definitely. No way to do it otherwise. I used a large bar to pry the middle ball joint off the subframe.

  • @dejilted Thx i did get it figured out. Also Check out e36-tech dot com we'd like to have you as a member!

  • @defkon99 Sold my e36 :)

    Currently drive a 1996 C36 AMG and a 2006 MX5.

  • it would be nice if you had detailed a bit more on the hardest part of doing this job.....removing the ball joints from the crossmember and the steering knuckle. That is always a bitch to do

    otherwise, real good video :)

  • Great video man, how many miles do these control arms last for? for general road driving. Thanks

  • @fIRsTRATmAN The Meyle HD stuff is just as good if not better than the OE BMW stuff, for sure. It is the most trusted aftermarket name for BMW along with Lemforder.

  • Probably the most professional and informative video on YouTube. Please keep up the good work. Make more and use the same technique, background music and narration in all your videos and you will have your own channel.

  • @abingham1971 I appreciate the positivity.

  • This was really helpful, I plan on doing this this week. I had a question tho, is it really necessary to get a torque measuring wrench? Or is it acceptable to just tighten until it's really tight? ps dig your hair. kz

  • @Zullokelly Pretty much all suspension components will work fine if you overtighten. Usually tightening by hand on a sufficiently large breaker bar is more than enough. Torque wrenches come in handy mostly on stuff like engines and bearings, where fluids, gaskets and tight clearances come into play.

  • the music + your voice are very soothing to hear

  • That kawasaki tool really busts those rusty bolts & nuts loose?

  • @bastrop78418 Some, but not all. It actually freed my lollipops & droplink mounts on the control arm.

  • Thanks a lot man, now i know how to remove and replace that part on my 325i. Drive Safe and thanks again.

  • cheers dude

  • @plainlazy17 Please rate :) and thank you.

  • cheers dude

  • Very good video man...Thank you

  • nice video bra

  • Nice video, I have the same problem like kaivonparoo. I'm going for the pickle forks today. :-) and send some more vibration with the hammer.

  • Hey I would like to say thank you I was about to pay 1350 at pep boys to fix this problem with out the polyurethane upgrade on the bushings but at the fcpgroton its 210 with free shipping to replace my tie rods and control arms all i have to say is thank you and your company for providing premium BMW parts at the affordable price so even young students like me can enjoy my e36 325ci I am definitely a return customer from now on

  • The ball joints at the middle and outer points of the control arm were stuck really firmly in their settings on my car. I had to use a Pitman fork to break the seal at the middle joint, and I'm trying to use a ball joint separator at the outer joint but so far it isn't working. Were you really able to just drop the CAs with a little tugging? No pickle forks at all?

    I don't mean removing the ball joints from the CA itself. I mean displacing them from the spindle (outer) and subframe (middle).

  • @kaivonparoo That is pretty much on a whatever-works-for-you basis, but I had a little struggle going as well. Keep in mind that the old control arms are of absolutely no use and cannot be returned as core. This means that with a proper hammer you can send some vibrations up the center ball joint to help get it loose.

    Keep in mind that the center ball joint is a conical shaft, so hitting from directly underneath might only get it stuck more. So try hitting from the side.

  • @kaivonparoo Another approach (one I had to use) is to use the lever effect. You need a pipe as sturdy and as long as possible. You literally might have to resort to heavy duty gardening equipment or something similar. Prop the end against the crossmember, wedged between the crossmember and the arm itself and press down.

    Trick to the lever effect is smooth but extended periodic tugging.

    Trick to hammer is applying just the right amount of force repeating times, much like impact wrenches.

  • @kaivonparoo i just rented a fork set withy three different sizes from an advanced auto parts. it gave me a lot of trouble getting them out, i even used a chipping hammer. once i got the forks it popped out in 2 seconds, just place it in and hit it hard with a hammer

  • very nice! make more

  • @mr318john Will do. My boss sees the comments and likes them. Vote me up and leave good comments and my company will motivate me to show you guys more.

  • I've seen many DIY videos but this particular one is exquisite. Your video design skills are superior to any I've ever seen and this took the agony out of trying to figure out how to get the arms off my car. I look forward to seeing more of your videos soon and I'm glad to see a fellow E36 driver keeping his car alive.

  • @BrianXX91 I do that I can :)

    The feedback on this one is overwhelmingly positive, good reinforcement for making more of these.

  • great video, well done.

    my control arms are stuck like a mother in my car tho, cant pry em out at all...

  • cool video, thanks

  • THANKS!

  • Brilliant, helpful and detailed. Many thanks for your patience in making this video.

  • You're the man dennis

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