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  • you were saving your neigbors electricity bill while leaving it plugged in unloaded

  • Electric meters measure consumption in watts, not amps.

    These devices do not reduce the watts consumed at all.

    watts = amps x volts x power factor

    Resistive loads have a power factor of 1, but things like motors have a lower power factor.

    These devices will lower the amperage reading you get from a motor, but they raise the power factor in proportion, so the watts are the same.

    Your electric meter only measures watts, so these devices will save you nothing.

  • IT WORKS, THEY ARN'T LIEING, IT SAVES POWER WHEN YOU PLUG IT OUT!

    lol, capps:)

  • Good job! You have shown the fallacy of these devices. They don't work. All they are is a box with capacitors. Don't be fooled. With alternating current, current doesn't mean power like with DC. These devices can reduce current for an electric motor type load but that doesn't reduce power - not the same thing/no increase in efficiency. The power company charges you for power, not current. Don't buy. It's a scam.

  • connect ammeter at supply input terminal and not after device....

  • i m a electrical engineer from india, please see the location of measuring current, it's very important..the magnetizing current keeps oscillating from inductive load to source, this device acts as a source for magnetizing kVAR...so connect ur ammeter before this device.....this device switches capacitor to compensate reactive kVAR's.....it will definatly save electricity upto 15% ( only when inductive loads like, motors or transformers are running)....:-)

  • at the end he says the truth..you see this on the internet you probably wanna stay away from them..

  • ATTENTION!

    Not Working!

  • These devices are only effective with things that have any motors like Fans, AC, washing machines, etc. I have tested one and found that the bill did decrease by 15 %. Secondly the device need atleast a week to stabilise after which it starts working effectively. Thanks.

  • gostaria de saber se tem com revender esse aparelho para o brasil,quanto custa grato

  • You are measuring watts. You should be measuring VA entering the fuse box (I dont recommend doing it). Either way power saver units like the one shown are probably useless in the US. As most utility companies will only charge KW used as opposed to apparent power consumption. If your utility company charges apparent power consumption then theoretically it should work.

  • @alurizar0101 in greece charge in houses is in watts not in VA..so if this works it may has more consumption for energy supplier but it will decrease your bills..of course almost all devices used in home have almost the same watts as VA. I don't think this works..

  • This Capacitor-In-A-Box will NOT save you one dime on your Electric Bill - ever! Do not buy it.

  • What these devices are supposed to do with the capacitor can only assist with inductive loads like motors. The thing is, most modern appliances with motors in them already have a similar capacitor built in. You will see a drop in current with a VERY old electric motor. Google "Energy saving capacitor" and go to the first, not paid, link for a much more thorough description.

  • The bottom line is that without these devices we are paying about 110w-140w to run a 100w bulb. This is the same in every home. WITH one of these saver devices we simply reduce the INEFFECIENCY of our regular electricity consumption. THEY do not reduce the consumed energy, they reduce the wasted energy that is used when meeting the necessary amounts of energy required for our household stuffs. Its very simple and basic once yo relax and stop condemming.  GOOD LUCK SMARTY!!!

  • The devices make it more EFFECIENT for energy to be consumed by the electronic item. For example... A 100w bulb is going to require 100w to run no matter what. When we compare the phase of the incoming line with the phase of the bulb we may, hypothetically find a 10% conflict between the phases of the incoming line and that of the consuming device. This means the incoming line will ultimately have to deliver the required wattage + the amount of conflict or inefficiency.

  • Hi, I can tell you whats up. These devices DO NOT REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF ENERGY USED! I repeat, they do not reduce the energy used. These devices have the POTENTIAL to reduce the amount of overall energy used by the household by synchronizing the PHASE of energy coming in with the PHASE of the device using the energy.

  • @fixtable I am studying electrical engineer..so if you sychronise the phases what do you save??the power that is lost on cables??don't think it's so much power..

  • Power Factor... Look it up. It is a capacitor. Levels your power factor...

  • I have a 18KW "Power Saver" (eBay) that looks like the one in the video. The Label sais: New Time Power Star ZLX from ZHUOLANGXING. The electronics look the same as in yours. I tested it with a vacuum cleaner measured at 1355Watt. The "Power Saver" did NOT reduce the power consumption when plug in front or behind the wattmeter! With a 43 watts fan the power consumption went up 1 watt when I connected the "Power Saver" behind the wattmeter.

    Conclusion: !!! THESE DEVICES DO NOT SAVE POWER !!!

  • @AdventureNinja

    Can you tell me please, where to get some of that headlight fluid? My headlights tinkle on and off just recently. I'm afraid of getting a ticket, will pay whatever you ask for that stuff, but prefer the organic made in Mexico over China Thanks alot buddy!

  • Test this, surgexpro com

  • Check the video at 0:42 ! Anything that is MOTOR driven! The light bulb is NOT motor driven, the hair dryer has a small fan motor, but 98% of the hair dryers energy draw is used to produce heat! Test it with something that is mostly motor to see a savings! These things are for washing machines, refrigerators, big fans, a/c units, etc., something that uses a nice size motor! YOU say in the video it's for MOTORS, then connect a LIGHT BULB to it, unbelievable!

  • i sent you pm again, did you get it?

  • This one is wired into you panel. I have installed a few of these for customer's that bought them online. They do help with inductive load's, motor start up,and it is a whole house surge protector in one unit. They are a bit up there in cost but a whole house surge protector alone can cost around 100$ for a good one. Its a PowerwoRx-e3 unit. I never tested its standby power draw so i'm not sure if it draw's any current. I'm sure it does. Maybe they will send you one to test pete :)

  • I'm sure it's not UL approved.

  • @laidofftomass You have that right.

  • great review

  • @greenback001 Thanks my friend.

    -Pete

  • Im in the resell business and we have had a huge influx of china made stuff come through the auctions where I buy. And I wouldn't touch 99% of the stuff from there. It is all very cheaply made, prone to break quickly.

    I sometimes sit and wonder, "why the heck do businesses keep buying this crap to sell". of course, i already know the answer to that. But I still sit in awe and wonder sometimes at the lack of integrity in manufacturing from over there.

  • @scutter4christ haha.. You have that right.. Cheap is always the answer.

    I fix cheap computers all day long and the high-end stuff rarely unless its self-inflicted..

    All the best,

    -Pete

  • The Chinese are brilliant. Just leave it to them to help you save energy.

  • @FireThunderTV Well I will keep reviewing products until I find a winner..

    haha..

    -Pete

  • For electric use, not to save power, I use two different models of Kill-A-Watt. Both essentially the same, except that the more expensive unit has a setting where you can enter electricity cost in $ per kilawatt-hour. After a period of time, especially for appliances that cycle on and off like freezers, and air conditioners, it will project future energy costs by the week, month and year. You might purchase LED lights from earthLED, and run comparison tests for future videos.

  • @jazz61021 Thanks for the comment.. I have a new kill-a-watt model on its way.. I will check into the lights.

    Thanks,

    -Pete

  • These items are a waste of money, domestic installations have little in the way of inductive loads, and most of these in houses (fridges, microwaves, flourecents) r sold with their own power factor correction capacitors fitted, measuring true power and apparent power in a circuit and providing compensation as this device is caliming to do involves not being plugged into an outlet and involves a lot more than a couple of cheap resistors and a medium sized capacitor, lol if only it was that easy.

  • Great vid old bean.

  • Thanks!

    

  • Good info , all of these things are a joke. it good to show them for what they are anyway.

    if you balance your breaker box , it the best way of saving money.

    most /all house have two lines coming in , so you want a equal draw on the power because the meter reads the peaks in those lines.

    a capacitor will help on starting a big motor with a load but that looks like a bad plug for something like a 13 amp motor , it would heat up fast. not last very long ether.

    Keep it up =)

  • @czarwright a good test is to have to see if you over loaded is to take a surface temp meter to reading on your breakers. the heat will tell if you maybe overloading a circuit. it a safe way for all to test you breakers in you house. mainly old house before code enforcement ;o)

    anyhome store will have them , under 50 bucks and very useful for just about anything. even for cooking food, i even use it on my cars to see if the radiator are blocked. quick reading with out touching something. =)

  • I think the power saving comes from the initial surge when a motor is first started up.

  • Them boxes are like a run capacitor, set across your AC line, they do work on heavy inductive loads such as Motors, and microwave ovens, light loads or resistive loads they are worthless, try it on your fridge out in the garage.

    It is supposed to aid in power factor correction, bringing current and voltage to unity

    Not well made I see...

  • don't break that 23 watt bulb because it'll kill u

  • lol, "And...It went up."

    It looks like a fire hazard. Those contacts are WAYYY to small for something like that heat gun to be drawing off of. A nice test would be to take it out to the garage and hook it up to something that draws some juice. Leave it on for a while and test the temperature of those solder joints, and the wires for that matter.

  • Peter it looks like it can start a fire. Good job and thank you for sharing . Chow

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