@96Delta I forgot to mention that he is using Tamiya Enamels for the figure. Tamiya packages it's enamels in square bottles and the acrylics in round.
Couldn't agree more with you on that one.. I can make the very good result with resin figures like Nemrod,Warriors or Verlinden, but plastic like Dragon, no way.. I replace all the heads with resin ones...
So far I have built one Gen2 Dragon figures, US tank riders. They are much better than the normal ones, except the faces, they are still dull with no expression, so if your figure is having a break or he is fighting hand-to-hand for his life it's the same thing.. A bad side is that Gen2 is torn into several small details, like uniform shoulder bars are off and you have to cut them and glue them and so on...but weapons are remarkable with crisp detail and some cool features, m1 garand with clip..
i have built many of then DML Gen2 aswell. however for many years now i dont build figures from the box. i use different parts or sculpt. Hornet heads are the best and try the ABER German soldiers gear. its the best!
I use games workshop colors for figures and recently I discovered lifecolor sets and I'm very pleased with the results. Both brands are acrylic, which is bad when painting faces, cause they are drying really fast and if you want colors to blend you have to be really quick.. or work with plenty of water which is not so good on 1/35 face because it'll run all over the face into eyes, nose, mouth etc....
with Actrylics you can use a drying retarder. Vallejo is best for brush painting because of the way they are made. they have the strong pigments for a reason
Yes i would be grateful, went to acryl paints some time ago and although good they dry too fast making a lot of the techniques bloody hard my faces were good with ebnamels, now they suck (i got the Revell ones cuz those were the only ones available in the shops, damn east Europe)
I just got into a modeling club and got the "get the Valleyo paints" answer also. Going to order them as soon i get the money.
Well at least if(when) i screw up painting i can clean it pretty easy when using acryls.
estos tipos saben lo que hacen,tienen equilibrio en su imaginacion y lo trasladan a la perfeccion en su trabajo,el nivel de detalle y tecnica son increibles,lo unico que objeto es que cargaron demasiado el diorama,con una base mas grande seria otra cosa,de todas formas esto es solo mi punto de vista,la maqueta por donde se la mire convence, buenisima,,,,,,,,,
oh so i have to put my brush deep into the bottom of the glass thing, where its all sticky? cause my paints flat paints are all shiney and its really unrealistic.
LOL ive been using the lid caus ill shack the bottle up and then open the lid and there would be a tinsy bit of paint on the lid from the insideand id use that but thank you very much :)
I prefer acrylic for this reason. See the notes above too. And Sleepy's suggestion works also. I use Mr Super Clear (Japanese product). Dullcote in the UK/US.
Tamiya makes a flattening agent. Soem people mistakenly believe that it is a flat overcoat but its not. It's to be added to paint to decrease the sheen.
You can also apply a flat coat over the entire model. If you want to get a little sheen to get the effect of sweat or moist skin, use some oil from your forehead and just rub it on the face.
The way you get the 5 o'clock shadow on the faces is simply amazing. What a talent.
dondeyout1 9 months ago
Man i hate the guy for making painting faces look soo easy.
PanterausfG 1 year ago
Does Anyone Know What Color He Used For Camouflage
95aelvis 1 year ago
The music that plays while the faces are being shown off is from the 1993 film "The Memphis Belle".
GoodwoodAlpha 1 year ago
For anyone who might be interested, he is using the following Tamiya colors (acrylic) for his figure's face:
XF-15 : Flat Flesh
XF-2 : Flat White
XF-10: Flat Brown
XF-7: Flat Red
He mixes each of these colors with the Flesh to achieve the different shades he needs for the figures shadows and highlights.
I'm always interested in what painters use to achieve their restults so I figure some of you might be too. Enjoy.
96Delta 2 years ago 4
@96Delta I forgot to mention that he is using Tamiya Enamels for the figure. Tamiya packages it's enamels in square bottles and the acrylics in round.
That's why the open time is so long. :)
96Delta 2 years ago
Someone has mentioned already, acylic paints have a retardant liquid option you can use to avoid quick drying.
acanthopleura 2 years ago 3
You can make your paint mentally retarded by dropping it on its head then shaking it up.
GrandPimp20 2 years ago 5
The worst part about painting faces, in this video, is the fact he makes it look so, so damn easy ,and its not.
PanterausfG 2 years ago
Couldn't agree more with you on that one.. I can make the very good result with resin figures like Nemrod,Warriors or Verlinden, but plastic like Dragon, no way.. I replace all the heads with resin ones...
jogados 2 years ago
@jogados did you try the 2nd gen Dragon ones, whats your opinion as a higer quality figure modeler ?
I have one(box) in stock, but are on hold until i finish my Dragon king tiger and the old Tamiya Panther G steel wheel version?
Btw do you use acrylic or enamel paints?
PanterausfG 2 years ago
So far I have built one Gen2 Dragon figures, US tank riders. They are much better than the normal ones, except the faces, they are still dull with no expression, so if your figure is having a break or he is fighting hand-to-hand for his life it's the same thing.. A bad side is that Gen2 is torn into several small details, like uniform shoulder bars are off and you have to cut them and glue them and so on...but weapons are remarkable with crisp detail and some cool features, m1 garand with clip..
jogados 2 years ago
i have built many of then DML Gen2 aswell. however for many years now i dont build figures from the box. i use different parts or sculpt. Hornet heads are the best and try the ABER German soldiers gear. its the best!
Silnius 2 years ago
I use games workshop colors for figures and recently I discovered lifecolor sets and I'm very pleased with the results. Both brands are acrylic, which is bad when painting faces, cause they are drying really fast and if you want colors to blend you have to be really quick.. or work with plenty of water which is not so good on 1/35 face because it'll run all over the face into eyes, nose, mouth etc....
jogados 2 years ago
with Actrylics you can use a drying retarder. Vallejo is best for brush painting because of the way they are made. they have the strong pigments for a reason
Silnius 2 years ago
hornet all the way and Alpine Miniatures!.
Silnius 2 years ago
its not as hard as you think. if you want great links i can put you in the right direction. Try Vallejo model paints.
Silnius 2 years ago
Yes i would be grateful, went to acryl paints some time ago and although good they dry too fast making a lot of the techniques bloody hard my faces were good with ebnamels, now they suck (i got the Revell ones cuz those were the only ones available in the shops, damn east Europe)
I just got into a modeling club and got the "get the Valleyo paints" answer also. Going to order them as soon i get the money.
Well at least if(when) i screw up painting i can clean it pretty easy when using acryls.
PanterausfG 2 years ago
@PanterausfG hope you remember me, hows your figure painting going?, did you invest into the Vallejo paints?
Silnius 2 years ago
Unfortunately not yet I am finishing my dragon Tiger B but the paints are next in the line.
PanterausfG 2 years ago
Anyone know where the sweet life-like bricks are from at 3:17?
Kriegfreak 2 years ago
could be Czech Plus Model...
318SaboTaGe 2 years ago
They are from Custom Dioramics in the USA.
96Delta 2 years ago
estos tipos saben lo que hacen,tienen equilibrio en su imaginacion y lo trasladan a la perfeccion en su trabajo,el nivel de detalle y tecnica son increibles,lo unico que objeto es que cargaron demasiado el diorama,con una base mas grande seria otra cosa,de todas formas esto es solo mi punto de vista,la maqueta por donde se la mire convence, buenisima,,,,,,,,,
danyrosca 2 years ago
man thats pro
timudema 2 years ago
Did somebody heard some Enemy at the Gates background music?
bayuro 2 years ago
wow his paint sure dries slow....
wssw1994 3 years ago
When u do dry brush, take the bottom
paint leaving the thinner on top.
As the thinner will have a gross finish.
edmundlkm 3 years ago
oh so i have to put my brush deep into the bottom of the glass thing, where its all sticky? cause my paints flat paints are all shiney and its really unrealistic.
EvilKorbinDallas 3 years ago
Yes,that's correct. You can use a stick or
long spoon to scoop up the paint at the bottom. Try to avoid the enamel oil at the top but abit will not hurt.
edmundlkm 3 years ago
LOL ive been using the lid caus ill shack the bottle up and then open the lid and there would be a tinsy bit of paint on the lid from the insideand id use that but thank you very much :)
EvilKorbinDallas 3 years ago
hey he is using Tamiya Enamel paint rite?Mine r glossy so y isn't his?
wssw1994 3 years ago
hey can anyone tell me how to maintain my paints flat?My paints r always glossy n shiny!
Thanks!(:
wssw1994 3 years ago
add a flat cleat topcoat at the end?
sleepylafiel 3 years ago 2
I prefer acrylic for this reason. See the notes above too. And Sleepy's suggestion works also. I use Mr Super Clear (Japanese product). Dullcote in the UK/US.
gazpalmer 2 years ago
Tamiya makes a flattening agent. Soem people mistakenly believe that it is a flat overcoat but its not. It's to be added to paint to decrease the sheen.
You can also apply a flat coat over the entire model. If you want to get a little sheen to get the effect of sweat or moist skin, use some oil from your forehead and just rub it on the face.
96Delta 2 years ago
@wssw1994 well if you use Tamiya acrlyics. then put some Flat base from tamiya in the paint and mix. it works very well.
Silnius 1 year ago
Excelente tutorial
manolocolibri 3 years ago 2