Added: 3 years ago
From: Lidmotor
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  • please tell me what the benefit of this is? sorry if i ask stupid.... i have SSG running but neon bulb doesnt do anything

  • Xcellent

    & thanks 4 your modification

    Gonna play with RELAY coils

  • The diode is there to prevent the batteries to "short circuit" when eletrcity is being induced on the coil, when the relay open the induced eletricity discharge on the "Charge battery".

  • the reason why you can generate up to 400V is because the fact that you are using a relay coil that has a lot of spins what increases the voltagebut when you connect it to the "charge battery" it will drop to almost the same as your battery due to the lack of potencial to source eletrons. What amothep did, was just rediscover 1940's oscilator circuits before modern chips take place,

  • This circuit has nothing to do with free energy. You just using the same principle of a alternator transformer that you conect to your normal eletricity. The reason for the relay is to make the eletrcity becames variable, than you can induce eletricity on the magnetic coil, then the relay turns out and the energy storaged on the coil discharge on your charge battery,

  • sorry. got my numbers mixed up. switch 86 and 85. That is my connect as it stands now.

  • Hi lidmotor. got my charger working, well sort of. It's buzzing, but the neon stays on. I notice your neon goes out when the charge batt is connected. I have the setup connected using an Euro audio connector. Neon is tied in where the 86 and 30 wires go to the diode. The other end is tied into 85 and where the neg of charge batt and pos run batt join together. I'm using a wall plug as input voltage (12 v). Is this right or have I got the neon in the wrong spot.

  • I’m recharging a size 16 battery (with .800 volts on it) with this imhotep charger and when I connect it all up the charge battery starts off above 12 volts but slowly drops down, is this normal? I’m sure the battery is sulfated but for the voltage to drop to 10.5 volts from 12 is not what I expected. It’s hard to know if it's woking if the volts keep going down. Has anyone else experience this?

  • i need a relay that i can use a 12v on and 3.2v to make it switch

  • He uses a SPST relay. If you use a SPDT relay like I did, you don't even need to modify it! Also, I used a micro-relay (also from Rat Shack) and it works fine. I plan on encasing it in a small container filled with hot glue in order to dampen the sound. Inevitably, the mechanism will fail. This should be taken into account.

  • THANKZ BRO....

    CAN YOU OPEN THE RELAY? INTERESTING....... 

  • Can you power a house with that thin buddy? Thanks by the way, easier to understand indeed!

  • the distance of your solar panel to your setup is probably reducing the amperage...

  • i don't know anything about electricity, but it gives me the will to go back to school to learn it ...thanks for sharing : )

  • energetic fun smart and loves this video

    hi anyone want to chat Kt

  • how did you modify the relay?? and how does the adjustment screw make it possible to use bolth sides, how did you modify the contact??

    Mines singin away, but your right annoying. It seem's to effect broadcast tv reception, cordless phone and my cheap multimeter sounds like a giger counter!!!! Been running about 8hours charging a dead drill battery wouldent charge (was 0 volts) now its 10.5!!! Source is dc power adaptor rated for 500 milliamps!!

  • You have to squeeze the contacts together with a pair of pliers until they are close. Drill a hole in the side of the case that is slightly smaller than the screw and thread the screw into the case. Turn the screw in until it forces the contact very close to the vibrating arm contact It is a very fine adjustment. Use a fine thread machine screw. See my next video to make a quiet runnung one or just throw a towel over yours it to shut it up. LOL.

  • I have a simple question:

    Can i charge with this "relay charger" simple (not rechargeable) battery's (8 AA 1.5V maxell zinc battery pack) ?

    Or it works only with rechargeable battery? (sry iam lame :) )

  • Those batteries are not designed to be recharged.

  • Mine is working, I let it run all night on my small battery Primary went from 13.25 to 13.9 Target went from 13.40 to 13.69.

    I think the coil needs to match the size of the battery the larger batteries did not do as well, I am thinking I will need either to boost the voltage with an inverter or run some of these relays in parallel or get myself a much larger relay. Hmmm what if I put a coil in series with the power coil... So many possibilities.

  • WOW!! You are already ahead of me.

  • Opps primary with to 13.25 to 13.09

    those zeros make a difference

  • Hey Lidmotor, you might be tempted to to temporarily swap out the charging battery with a large-ish cap and a resistor to make a true and accurate measurement of the charging power the solar panel can provide with your circuit. I probably gave more specifics in an other posting so I won't repeat myself.

  • More testing to come on this one. Anyone got some good ear plugs. This is a real screamer!

  • Very cool Lidmotor. The whine makes me think of an electronic camera flash. You know how you hear the high-pitched whine when it charges? It is just a diode-inductor-capacitor circuit that charges up a high-voltage capacitor a la Bedini.

    The circuit is 'kicking up' the solar panel juice and making it more capable of charging a battery. It would be cool to have a solid-state in-line module for a solar panel to give it better battery charging capability.

  • You are right. If you went solid state on it though,it would have to be just as fast and "snappy" a pulse or I don't think that it would work as well. Fast switching (as you once told me) is what makes the big voltage spikes.

  • Fast switching is the key with the transistor. A 555 actually outputs a very sharp edge and when it is in close proximity to the transistor (like one inch or less) there is no reason for the transistor to not switch off nearly as fast as the relay contacts opening. When things are apart with long wires in the air, etc, then the 555 signal gets distorted. Basically you want the transistor off or on, not in between.

    Of course the spikes are greatly reduced when the charging batt is connected.

  • That is great news. Thanks. I know what to do now. Its going to cost me 30 millamps more to run it that way but the buzzzzz is really getting to me. The trick will be getting the same performance out of the coil. This should work the way that you described it.

  • I checked the 555 timer spec and noticed that the chip itself consumes about 5-8 milliamps. On top of that the outputs are capable of driving up to 200 milliamps. So for example the "high" output may have to drive 100 milliamps into the load, plus the 5 milliamps to run the timer itself for a total of 105 milliamps when the output is high.

    Here is the good news: If you can have the 555 drive a FET, then the 555 timer will only consume 5 milliamps because the FET input consumes no current.

  • it's very impressive! (imhotep too)

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