How to mat a print in an archival, conservation-safe manner

[jgcoutdoors]

First, I want to thank you for posting such a helpful video.

I couldn't find any information in the list of previous comments about the type of tape that you used in this presentation. I attempted to mount/mat some prints using this method and everything worked well with one major exception: the gummed, water-activated tape that I attempted to use causes the print to warp and buckle at the point where the hinge is attached.

What type of archival tape do you use for making hinges?

[MonkeyandScout]

@jgcoutdoors, Glad you found this vid helpful. The tape is called Filmoplast P90. I get it from a frame shop. Good luck!

[wendizzle4reels]

Very helpful. Thank you.

[lambertjohn1]

Great video!! But how do you cut the matte to begin with? Where do you buy the matte cardboard? How did you get the square hole in the middle? Please do a video on where you purchase matting cardboard, the foam, etc., and how you cut it all to look like a picture frame. Thanks!

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@lambertjohn1: You can buy a mat cutter and mats at a good art supply store. The mat cutter should come with instructions on exactly how to cut the mat to the size you want.

Even easier: buy pre-cut mats. I use a company called Clear Bags who has a great selection of pre-cut mats to fit standard size photos and frames. Hope that helps!

[JSinon1]

I have been mounting my photos almost the exact same way, but still have a problem with the print wrinkling to some degree. This is particularly noticeable with prints on metallic paper. Any tips for preventing, or at least greatly reducing the wrinkling?

Thanks

[MonkeyandScout]

@JSinon1: A few things you can try to reduce wrinkling:

1) Hang the print somewhere where it's not subject to temperature and humidity fluctuations. These are the main causes of wrinkling

2) Use a matte or lustre finish instead of metallic or glossy. This will help make wrinkling less noticeable.

3) If all else fails, dry mount the print to the backing board. This will remove all wrinkles and is still (in theory) a reversible process if you need to remove the print.

Good luck!

[EmsVision1]

Thank you for a very illuminating presentation. I have one question though: what type of pen do you use for writing on the back of the print and the lower right corner of the mat?

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@EmsVision1 Any kind of acid free pen should be fine. I use an acid free fine tip pen for the back of the print, and a paint-pen to sign the actual print

[owinthomas]

Informative video, thanks.

Just one question ... you keep going on about the fact that you do not want to damage the print, hence the archival tape and t-hinge mounting etc., but the one thing that struck me the most was your constant touching of the print with your fingers. Surely that will damage the print just as much, with the oils on your skin. Personally, I would use some gloves to handle the print. Maybe over the top but at least the skin oils would not damage the print.

[Kimbo83]

Very informative! I have a few questions which is what led me to find this video. I am trying to frame an autographed poster (27"x39") in an archival manner and the biggest frame i can find locally is 27"x40". I assume it must be matted to keep the autographs off the glass. If i did a 1" mat all the way around (Unfortunelty covering some poster) would the middle sag into the glass eventually since the poster is so big? Is 1" big enough? Is the exact 27" W frame okay? This is tough and costly.

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@Kimbo83: Good question! I can't say if the exact 27" width is ok. You'll have to measure the poster and measure the frame precisely to make sure it will fit.

As for the mat, the poster might sag eventually into the glass. The best solution I can think of is to take the poster into your local frame shop and have them use their dry mount press to mount the poster to a piece of foam board. That will prevent it from sagging, and the dry mount is still archival. Good luck!

[KanweieneaKreations]

thank you so much for posting this. Very helpful! :)

[ChrisRRJones]

thanks so much for your quick response, much appreciated and very interesting to hear more about how you work, Chris

[ChrisRRJones]

thanks for this, one of the best videos i've seen on archival mounting of images. I'd love to know why you mount onto foamboard rather than onto mount board? Also, presumably you put the finished products into cellophane wrappers to protect them - do you make your own or get them pre-made? Thanks, Chris

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@ChrisRRJones : Hey Chris, glad you found the vid useful! I was using foamcore instead of mount board simply because it was cheaper, though I was still using acid-free archival stuff. I've since switched to mounting board and find pros and cons to each method.

Mountboard

---------------- Pros - truly archival. thinner than foamcore, so I can now bring more prints with me to art shows and they take up the same amount of space. mount board doesn't warp with temp and humidity fluctuations

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@ChrisRRJones continued...

Mountboard cons - a little more expensive than foamcore. It's not stiff like foamcore, so you have to be more careful not to bend the print. when you go to frame it, you'll probably also have to add some kind of backing board in order to give the piece some rigidity in the frame.

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@ChrisRRJones  continued...

Yes, I bag each print in a cellophane bag. I get all my bags, mats, and mounting boards from a company called Clearbags. You can google them

Cheers!

[rockerD82]

What is the best size for the mat border?

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@rockerD82: Depends on your personal preference. I use a 1/4" black border for the mat that I find works really well.

[sandraprietz]

Thanks for sharing this information. Very good and clear instructions and very careful framing technique. And I love that picture!

[sandraprietz]

Thanks for sharing this information. Very good and clear instructions and very careful framing technique. And I love that picture!

[homemademom1]

love the shot .. beautiful ..just wondering y a lot of people choose white mats?

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@homemademom1 :Thanks! Many people choose white mats because it helps to set off the artwork. Although it is possible to choose a colored mat which complements the artwork, many times a colored mat will compete for the viewer's attention and distract from the art. And for photography a white or black mat is especially nice because it helps the colors in the photograph seem true.

[lirwin13]

Thank you for posting this video! I've been trying to find a technique that will work well for mounting and framing images for a gallery, and this tutorial was just what I needed. It's great to have the visual, rather than just reading about it!

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

You are correct: the pen is totally archival.

Thanks for the comments!

[Earthframed]

I assume the pen is also archival. I use a variety of pigment based pens, depending on the size of the print or if it is a giclee canvas.

I also sign the print, not the mat (or both depending.)

Great video, concise and to the point.

[Earthframed]

Is that a ballpoint pen you are signing your print with?

[JoshuaCrippsPhoto]

@Earthframed : Haha, no. It's a black, gel-ink rollerball pen. I used to sign the mats with this, but then I realized that if the mat ever gets damaged, the person who owns the print will lose my signature. So now I sign on the front of the print with a silver, fine-tipped pain pen.

[spottedslinky]

Thanks MonkeyandScout. I'm ordering some hinge tape now.

[spottedslinky]

Thank you for this video. I wonder if this will also work for watercolors.

[MonkeyandScout]

@spottedslinky: This method will work for any kind of art you want to mat in a conservation-safe method. Everything is archival and acid free, so it shouldn't do any damage to your art. Take care!

[heidimule]

Thankyou so much for posting this video. This helps me out sooooo much. :)