I just took a second look at this video, and I saw that I missed something the first time. This is a real figure 9, it's just that it's common to make the extra turn above the 8 instead of across it. When you dress and tighten the knot, it looks the same as the standard figure 9. The turns are gentler than the figure 8.
Thats not the figure 9 I know.. I have never seen this knot used. My friend has tested almost every knot we can find with his dynamometer and the strongest we found is the figure8 with 2 tails (what some people call the figure 9). Check out my video "Rope Solo Lead Climbing Tutorial Part 2 - Anchoring" for info on how to tie this knot. My guess is that your figure 9 knot will test weaker than the standard figure 8 because the extra twist will cause rubbing and have harder bends under tension
I just took a second look at this video, and I saw that I missed something the first time. This is a real figure 9, it's just that it's common to make the extra turn above the 8 instead of across it. When you dress and tighten the knot, it looks the same as the standard figure 9. The turns are gentler than the figure 8.
HoDoulosTouTheou 6 months ago
Comment removed
HoDoulosTouTheou 6 months ago
Thats not the figure 9 I know.. I have never seen this knot used. My friend has tested almost every knot we can find with his dynamometer and the strongest we found is the figure8 with 2 tails (what some people call the figure 9). Check out my video "Rope Solo Lead Climbing Tutorial Part 2 - Anchoring" for info on how to tie this knot. My guess is that your figure 9 knot will test weaker than the standard figure 8 because the extra twist will cause rubbing and have harder bends under tension
AronSensei 8 months ago