I certainly agree with a lot of comments about the Cold Steel Tomahawk is really not heavy or stout enough. I'm particularly critical of the thin eye of the tomahawk at the sides of the ax. It's a great idea, and if they doubled the thickness of the eye it would be great. As it is, I consider it more a weapon than a bushcrafting tool. It's light, fast and effective--just not for bushcrafting. I have a custom made tomahawk with a weight of 22oz which is wonderful. .
Very interesting and objective review. I am reaching the conclusion that a medium/light camp-knife (e.g. Mora Clipper), a small hatchet/tomahawk and a collapsible bow-saw (e.g. Sawvivor) are the optimal 'system' for camp and outdoor use. It ain't sexy, but in terms of weight and versatility it is and always was the classic backwoodsman's load-out.
@Original50 I think this a good combination except for the Survivor saw. I use a Buck Saw which is far superior. I have two--one wood and the other a metal one in which all the parts--including the blade fit into one tube. Cuts much larger logs than the Survivor and is priced about $39.00 USD. IMO a buck saw is far superior to the Survivor.
@wb5mgr I totally agree. I have since purchased a legitimate ax and there was a significant performance boost. The problem I ran into with the ax is weight. If I am hiking in the winter with a need for a lot of wood processing and more essential wood processing, I would likely bring the ax (after some practice). Otherwise I like batonning with the big blades.
ka-bar bk9 is a great knife....USE LOCKTIGHT! ...it dont vibrate and itll never come apart unless you take it apart...ugh...so sick of hearing complaints about the bolts on youtube...if your gonna be slamming shit around with bolts in it that holds it together then use LOCKTIGHT! UGH!
Other than the Cold Steel, Trailmaster SK-5 (Taiwan) sometimes breaking just inside the handle (past the guard), when using with baton, It is definitely the best on the market for the money! The Carbon V was the best, but they are worth their weight in gol... SILVER now!
No, it was the SK-5 from Taiwan. A LOT of them broke while batoning. The blade always broke under (or about) the guard, where the temper changed from hard to softer. (Example: watch?v=KmO0XSWhV04)
The Carbon V or San Mai didn't have that flaw, as I know of. (Nutnfancy always used the Carbon V)
@RonRay I've found when it comes to big choppers, the cheaper the steel, the better. O1 or leaf spring steel is much better because of torque issues. Bark River's excellent Rogue River knife is notorious for breaking and it is a very thick blade. That is in part because of the high quality steel.
@Glivity I have to be honest and say I have never used to to split anything without botoning other than finger sized wood. I can't imagine it would do better than the hawk except for the abrupt thickness around the handle. That always presented a problem for me when chopping knotty wood which is usually what I end up with.
@faultroy Grans fors does make an ox-head style axe, i have seen them at their factory. You do have to specify that particular model when you order. The ox head style is a foresters / camping / trail making / hunters axe. Never had a problem splitting normal size firewood with it. The ox head certainly makes felling a tree much easier and quicker that a standard home depot/Canadian tire axe, but Ox heads are 125-150$ cdn each.
@derast Trust me when I say, these aren't near the top of the class in price or reputation. Look at Busse or even customs. They are around triple the price if you can find them. As you said, in many of these cases you get what you pay for but what I have here represents the lower end of good money well spent.
@dsheckx You are right, these are still reasonable. For my next trip I will be hauling the cheap ass "Rough use knife" (cheaperthandirt) I just bought (under a different name) for 13 EUR. Maybe that one is really the value for money #1 after all. We shall see.
@BladeLover45 Looks like it in the vid, huh? Nope, just scuff marks that are now cleaned off. I am hoping to Duracoat this dude before too long, though.
Fitzen did a great job on taking the "Saw Part off" he's over in Utah at Razors edge. She's so sweet now! Curious to knowing the saw you like now. I'll look into the Trailmaster.
Are you using the Sven Saw? or the Trailmaster Bucksaw? Wonder how you would like the Ontario Sp8 Machete - to me it's more of a chopping wedge - I love it although had the Teeth on the back filed down from John Fitzen at Razors Edge in Utah - he did a GREAT job. It's a massive .25 thick chopper, splitter $49 bucks at Chestnutridge I'm going to get a trailmaster next. Thanks!
@spiritartman I use the Sawvivor but have recently replaced it with another saw that is lighter and faster for me (vid coming). I would love to try the SP8. The saw back is what has kept me away. I imagine it is a lot more useful now esp when battoning. And while I agree that .25 is a thick blade, the Trailmaster is about 20% thicker (.31") and only a 1/2" shorter while still a bit lighter (1.6oz v 1.9oz).
@dsheckx definitely a proponent of scandi grinds. Carbon steel Moras are tough as hell, suoer easy to sharpen (even w/ quartz or other rocks) , can hold a razor sharp edge, and despite a 1/2 tang, can blast through wood batoning crossgrain. for less than 20 bucks pick up a clipper and you will be very impressed
wow I got a great deal on my cold steel Trail Master, ($80) for the for the coated blade. not sure what they call it. the only thing I dont like about it is the leather sheath. Seems cheap and honestly i would rather have a Kydex sheath or heavier leather sheath.
I'm not suprised at your findings. I have owned a CS Trailmaster for ten years (Carbon-V non-coated). I have been looking for some thing that performs as well. I still haven't found it. I also have the BK-9, I love it too. I put an old bicycle intertube piece over the handle. That took care of any vibrations and the slick handle. Lock tighted the screws the first day I got it, no problems..I also have the recon scout...love it!
@streetmartialscience I did the lock tight as soon as I got home from this trip but I need to try the bicycle tube. I was actually thinking about adapting an old pistol grip but the tube sounds like a better idea.
Try a Mora BushCraft Triflex Model 2080. For $30 a great knife for around the camp. I would also try a Faulkniven DC4 to bring with you. Keep those knives nice and sharp. I personally travel with a Mora Triflex , the BK9/BK13 combo and a SOG folding saw. I like the looks of that sawvivor though!! Change the blades for bone saw which is useful.
@shazzzam79 I am very intrigued by that Mora. I will have to see how it performs. As a side note, I am no longer using the sawvivor. Stay tuned for an update to see what I am using now.
@ilovedragons I totally agree. While I know that steel prices have gone up, they haven't gone up that much. I am considering making a video called Cold Steel: Mission Abandoned. Haven't had the time lately. Hopefully it will come soon. I think it is needed.
Technique, technique, technique. ok, dsheckx, next time your in the woods i want you to just use water to do you woodwork. just find a way to freeze it and then form it into a wedge with your hands... you won't have to pack a thing, you can find water wherever you are =p
@marshall3win The becker is nice but it just doesn't compare to the TM. Although, I have found myself using the recon scout more often than even the tm.
Imagine splitting wood with a knife that was TWO inches thick? It would be an insanely heavy knife, but would split like a dream. What else is up to two inches thick? Any random stick laying around, that's what! Make a wedge from a stick, make a cut into the end of a log with a hatchet or knife, and then use what you would normally use to baton the knife to baton the wedge into the cut and through the log. You will never split any other way again. Technique, technique, technique...
@Matunaagah I would love to see a video of your technique technique technique. At first run, I would say that a stick isn't a wedge and would therefore offer too much resistance. Whereas with a nice thick blade, a few whacks and the wood spits without that degree of effort.
@dsheckx Maybe that would work in areas where all available firewood is seasoned, straight-grained, knot-free hardwood, but in real life my technique is infinitely superior. I know, because I too used to brutalize knives through wood with a club before I discovered the technique. Find a dead tree and try it. You will never, ever use any edged tool as a wedge ever again. Furthermore, even the best knives will break unpredictably at some point from battonning them, especially in cold weather.
@Matunaagah Well, as I said, I would love to see it on video. If you need a camera, I can loan you one. I am a new student of survival and if you have a better technique, I want to see it. How about it?
@dsheckx You would give a camera to some random person on the internet? Don't be an idiot. If you want to see it, get off your computer and go outside an DO it. You should not even have to though, it should have clicked in your head that it would work just from reading my description. You must really have no experience with wood to not instantly realize that it would work. I know it works because I do not use any other method to process firewood when camping and backpacking.
@Matunaagah Well it seems as though you've definitively shown your true colors. You're a poser or as Nutnfancy likes to say, and arm chair elitist. Out of a desire to learn, I offer you a camera and an opportunity to show the world your amazing technique. Instead, I have inadvertently called your bluff. And, as any good poser/bully would do, you run away while yelling insults. Since you have failed to contribute anything meaningful, please consider this discussion over. My channel, my rules.
@Matunaagah So just to get this straight, I am supposed to split a 10 foot log into quarters and then break it into pieces with my foot. I need to cross cut a log (esp a standing dead tree) into manageable portions first just to get it back to camp and axes and hatchets don't excel at crosscutting as I said in the video. I will be posting a video very soon on a new saw that is even lighter and more effective.
@dsheckx Yes, you have it straight. I can, and frequently have, used this technique to turn an 8-12" thick dry, knotty, dead-standing pine or spruce (the toughest stuff to split EVER) into a pile of firewood fit for a winter night or two in about 40 minutes or less using NOTHING but a small hatchet or large survival knife (the two have come to be nearly interchangeable in my mind).
Split a long log into quarters FIRST. The quarter splits will be so easy to score with a hatchet, knife, or whatever, and then snap in half with your foot, that you will never be tempted to bring a saw of any kind in to the woods again. Technique, technique, technique....
That was exactly the combo I had hoped you would pick! I want it and thanks...as a novice I really thank you...I always learn the hard way and at least with your advise it will be easier on my wallet. No point in having a drawer full of useless crap.... ! I looked at tons of videos and this one actually helped a lot...5 STARS AAA+++
Yeah, I have looked at the RTAK. Looks like an absolute jugernaut of a knife. I guess my question about the trail master is, if you had to buy it again, would you spend the extra mony for the San Mai III?
@JuiceCook For me, no way would I buy the San Mai version. My primary reason isn't even cost (which is huge and about double). The biggest reason in my book is the toughness of the SK-5 versus the San Mai. While it is reasonably tough for stainless, it will chip in high stress impacts and will not recover like the high carbon. So unless you are in a high moisture environment, go with the SK-5 version.
@JuiceCook One other thought. The CS Laredo Bowie is the same steel as the TM but is an inch longer, same width, and only $20 more. I would love to see how this knife performs. It should be more forward weighted as it is lighter but longer than then TM.
Okay thank man. I'm looking for a good camping knife. I already have an old KA-BAR. What would you suggest? Is there anything better than the Trailmaster for the money?
@JuiceCook I would say that the best competitor to the TM is the Ontario RTAK 2. For reference, the best price for the TM I could find is about $125 and the best price for the RTAK is about $90. So the RTAK is cheaper, heavier (which is better for chopping and limbing), and has a coated blade. Also check smkw. They will occasionally offer the RTAK for less than $60 which is a total steal. The only area where the TM betters the RTAK in my opinion is blade thickness which IS a pretty big deal.
@JuiceCook Two years ago, I would have said that it is a great stainless option for high moisture environments. Today, I would say it is over priced for a mid quality production knife and it speaks to the over all failure on the part of CS to see how they became as popular as they are. They did it by offering good quality for good prices. Now they think they're Benchmade and can charge $300 for a fixed blade that was made on an automated assembly line. They really need to find their way back.
ok here is the cheapest place you can get them. they might seem a bit expensive but they are worth it trust me i have a BUSSE knife with them and they rock!///// just google//////custom becker BK micarta handels///// and you should find what you are looking for
hahahaha Ive Kissed a frog or two myself,But I love my Trailmaster,I want the Recon scout in sk5 so bad I can taste it and its a bitch to find these days.
I would say the finish is a basic, uncoated brushed/matte finish. The hilt is brass as best as I can tell. The lack of coating is a real step down in my opinion. I am hoping to put some sort of durable coating on it later.
@dsheckx Yeah i thought for a carbon steel uncoated is going to get rusted if people dont take care of it, especially with the leather sheath. I prefered the older model, i think CS is trying to make this knife look better but making it worste in the process.
Good review thanks. Trailmaster realy get the works done for the money love that knive and bring it along all the time. Thinking about a busse but dont know if the cost will bring the work as do the trailmaster.
I certainly agree with a lot of comments about the Cold Steel Tomahawk is really not heavy or stout enough. I'm particularly critical of the thin eye of the tomahawk at the sides of the ax. It's a great idea, and if they doubled the thickness of the eye it would be great. As it is, I consider it more a weapon than a bushcrafting tool. It's light, fast and effective--just not for bushcrafting. I have a custom made tomahawk with a weight of 22oz which is wonderful. .
faultroy 1 week ago
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BatCav3Productions 3 weeks ago
Very interesting and objective review. I am reaching the conclusion that a medium/light camp-knife (e.g. Mora Clipper), a small hatchet/tomahawk and a collapsible bow-saw (e.g. Sawvivor) are the optimal 'system' for camp and outdoor use. It ain't sexy, but in terms of weight and versatility it is and always was the classic backwoodsman's load-out.
Original50 3 months ago
@Original50 I think this a good combination except for the Survivor saw. I use a Buck Saw which is far superior. I have two--one wood and the other a metal one in which all the parts--including the blade fit into one tube. Cuts much larger logs than the Survivor and is priced about $39.00 USD. IMO a buck saw is far superior to the Survivor.
faultroy 1 week ago
On the Loose handle screws,put a drop of Loktight on each oneLOL:)
HerbWalker 4 months ago
My only complaint is that a hawk is not an axe. A real axe like a GB or Wetterlings would represent better than that cold steel hawk.
wb5mgr 4 months ago
@wb5mgr I totally agree. I have since purchased a legitimate ax and there was a significant performance boost. The problem I ran into with the ax is weight. If I am hiking in the winter with a need for a lot of wood processing and more essential wood processing, I would likely bring the ax (after some practice). Otherwise I like batonning with the big blades.
dsheckx 4 months ago
ka-bar bk9 is a great knife....USE LOCKTIGHT! ...it dont vibrate and itll never come apart unless you take it apart...ugh...so sick of hearing complaints about the bolts on youtube...if your gonna be slamming shit around with bolts in it that holds it together then use LOCKTIGHT! UGH!
MyBigThing2010 5 months ago
Other than the Cold Steel, Trailmaster SK-5 (Taiwan) sometimes breaking just inside the handle (past the guard), when using with baton, It is definitely the best on the market for the money! The Carbon V was the best, but they are worth their weight in gol... SILVER now!
RonRay 5 months ago
@RonRay I thought the ones that were breaking were the steel between Carbon V and SK-5. I believe it was 1095 or something.
dsheckx 5 months ago
@dsheckx
No, it was the SK-5 from Taiwan. A LOT of them broke while batoning. The blade always broke under (or about) the guard, where the temper changed from hard to softer. (Example: watch?v=KmO0XSWhV04)
The Carbon V or San Mai didn't have that flaw, as I know of. (Nutnfancy always used the Carbon V)
RonRay 5 months ago
@RonRay I've found when it comes to big choppers, the cheaper the steel, the better. O1 or leaf spring steel is much better because of torque issues. Bark River's excellent Rogue River knife is notorious for breaking and it is a very thick blade. That is in part because of the high quality steel.
faultroy 1 week ago
1 question.. does the trailmaster perform better as an axe than the tomahawk? eg for splitting wood w/out batoning.
Glivity 7 months ago
@Glivity I have to be honest and say I have never used to to split anything without botoning other than finger sized wood. I can't imagine it would do better than the hawk except for the abrupt thickness around the handle. That always presented a problem for me when chopping knotty wood which is usually what I end up with.
dsheckx 7 months ago
@Glivity I would recommend an Ox Head axe.
Terratracks 7 months ago
@Terratracks Smart Man, Damn good axe. I think it a better axe than the Grandsfork Bruk.
faultroy 1 week ago
@faultroy Grans fors does make an ox-head style axe, i have seen them at their factory. You do have to specify that particular model when you order. The ox head style is a foresters / camping / trail making / hunters axe. Never had a problem splitting normal size firewood with it. The ox head certainly makes felling a tree much easier and quicker that a standard home depot/Canadian tire axe, but Ox heads are 125-150$ cdn each.
Terratracks 1 week ago
Edit: didn't read the comment below, skip the laplander and spend an extra $10-15 for the silky, you wont regret it.
GreenFalc0n 8 months ago
you should try a silky super accel 21 folding saw and get rid of that bulky sawvivor .
GreenFalc0n 8 months ago
Which TrailMaster is that? The San Mai or the SK-5?
513habs 8 months ago
@513habs SK5. The San Mai is too expensive for me to buy and thump on having no experience with the steel.
dsheckx 8 months ago
Great review! Only trouble: The stuff is top notch in its class and priced accordingly ... but well u get what u pay for as they say ...
derast 8 months ago
@derast Trust me when I say, these aren't near the top of the class in price or reputation. Look at Busse or even customs. They are around triple the price if you can find them. As you said, in many of these cases you get what you pay for but what I have here represents the lower end of good money well spent.
dsheckx 8 months ago
@dsheckx You are right, these are still reasonable. For my next trip I will be hauling the cheap ass "Rough use knife" (cheaperthandirt) I just bought (under a different name) for 13 EUR. Maybe that one is really the value for money #1 after all. We shall see.
derast 7 months ago
@derast I'd love to know what you find out. I have had my eye on that knife as well. The thickness is my main concern.
dsheckx 7 months ago
the sawvivor is crap. it's inefficient and doesn't cut well. also, it's held together by freakin pop rivets. come on.
the bahco laplander is much, much better. there's a comparison review of those two here on youtube. check it out.
aseglkj 8 months ago
the bk9 gets a lot better with loctite.
maethorize 9 months ago
@maethorize I need to go whack on mine now that mine it'ss done. I'd love to pick up the Micarta slabs but they are very over priced in my opinion.
dsheckx 9 months ago
A TNP lineup if i ever seen one. Great knives' missing- RTAK II
NYCON360 10 months ago
was that rust on the trailmaster?!?!
BladeLover45 10 months ago
@BladeLover45 Looks like it in the vid, huh? Nope, just scuff marks that are now cleaned off. I am hoping to Duracoat this dude before too long, though.
dsheckx 10 months ago
@dsheckx Tell that to my wife!
dsheckx 10 months ago
Best knife review EVER! Thanks so much!!!
ScoutCrafter 10 months ago
@ScoutCrafter Thanks. I really appreciate that.
dsheckx 10 months ago
Best review on this subject I have read!
carlclimbs 10 months ago 2
@carlclimbs Thanks so much!
dsheckx 10 months ago
This is the kind of reviews I like, Details on the how and the why. With trials.GREAT JOB!
shtfprepared 11 months ago
@shtfprepared Thanks. I am very glad you liked it.
dsheckx 11 months ago
If you want I can email you photos of his excellent work!
spiritartman 1 year ago
@spiritartman I'd love to see it!
dsheckx 1 year ago
Fitzen did a great job on taking the "Saw Part off" he's over in Utah at Razors edge. She's so sweet now! Curious to knowing the saw you like now. I'll look into the Trailmaster.
spiritartman 1 year ago
Are you using the Sven Saw? or the Trailmaster Bucksaw? Wonder how you would like the Ontario Sp8 Machete - to me it's more of a chopping wedge - I love it although had the Teeth on the back filed down from John Fitzen at Razors Edge in Utah - he did a GREAT job. It's a massive .25 thick chopper, splitter $49 bucks at Chestnutridge I'm going to get a trailmaster next. Thanks!
spiritartman 1 year ago
@spiritartman I use the Sawvivor but have recently replaced it with another saw that is lighter and faster for me (vid coming). I would love to try the SP8. The saw back is what has kept me away. I imagine it is a lot more useful now esp when battoning. And while I agree that .25 is a thick blade, the Trailmaster is about 20% thicker (.31") and only a 1/2" shorter while still a bit lighter (1.6oz v 1.9oz).
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx definitely a proponent of scandi grinds. Carbon steel Moras are tough as hell, suoer easy to sharpen (even w/ quartz or other rocks) , can hold a razor sharp edge, and despite a 1/2 tang, can blast through wood batoning crossgrain. for less than 20 bucks pick up a clipper and you will be very impressed
MintGreenLambo 1 year ago
Agree with ur choice! Good combo!
islandsoljahz 1 year ago
wow I got a great deal on my cold steel Trail Master, ($80) for the for the coated blade. not sure what they call it. the only thing I dont like about it is the leather sheath. Seems cheap and honestly i would rather have a Kydex sheath or heavier leather sheath.
ThePathfinder71 1 year ago
Very helpful comparison.
nextexhale 1 year ago
@nextexhale Thanks.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx If you unscrew the screw on that kabar and locktite them, they should not loosen up anymore.
Southern661 1 year ago
@dsheckx sorry, you said you where gunna locktite it just before i hit post, and hit post instead of cancel.
Southern661 1 year ago
I'm not suprised at your findings. I have owned a CS Trailmaster for ten years (Carbon-V non-coated). I have been looking for some thing that performs as well. I still haven't found it. I also have the BK-9, I love it too. I put an old bicycle intertube piece over the handle. That took care of any vibrations and the slick handle. Lock tighted the screws the first day I got it, no problems..I also have the recon scout...love it!
streetmartialscience 1 year ago
@streetmartialscience I did the lock tight as soon as I got home from this trip but I need to try the bicycle tube. I was actually thinking about adapting an old pistol grip but the tube sounds like a better idea.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@streetmartialscience I used a tennis racquet wrap and it it GREAT! Has great grip and feels great!
bwarrior 1 year ago
Try a Mora BushCraft Triflex Model 2080. For $30 a great knife for around the camp. I would also try a Faulkniven DC4 to bring with you. Keep those knives nice and sharp. I personally travel with a Mora Triflex , the BK9/BK13 combo and a SOG folding saw. I like the looks of that sawvivor though!! Change the blades for bone saw which is useful.
shazzzam79 1 year ago 2
@shazzzam79 I am very intrigued by that Mora. I will have to see how it performs. As a side note, I am no longer using the sawvivor. Stay tuned for an update to see what I am using now.
dsheckx 1 year ago
wow... the cold steel trailmaster is very expensive, wtf.
ilovedragons 1 year ago
@ilovedragons I totally agree. While I know that steel prices have gone up, they haven't gone up that much. I am considering making a video called Cold Steel: Mission Abandoned. Haven't had the time lately. Hopefully it will come soon. I think it is needed.
dsheckx 1 year ago
thanks for the vid
Technique, technique, technique. ok, dsheckx, next time your in the woods i want you to just use water to do you woodwork. just find a way to freeze it and then form it into a wedge with your hands... you won't have to pack a thing, you can find water wherever you are =p
jeffbengtson 1 year ago
@jeffbengtson BEST...COMMENT... EVER!!!!!
dsheckx 1 year ago
i have the becker bk9, i love that blade. i really really want the cold steel trail master though
marshall3win 1 year ago
@marshall3win The becker is nice but it just doesn't compare to the TM. Although, I have found myself using the recon scout more often than even the tm.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx yeah the trail master is a pretty huge heavy knife. any way would you be willing to sell or trade any thing for the TM? just wondering.
marshall3win 1 year ago
Imagine splitting wood with a knife that was TWO inches thick? It would be an insanely heavy knife, but would split like a dream. What else is up to two inches thick? Any random stick laying around, that's what! Make a wedge from a stick, make a cut into the end of a log with a hatchet or knife, and then use what you would normally use to baton the knife to baton the wedge into the cut and through the log. You will never split any other way again. Technique, technique, technique...
Matunaagah 1 year ago
@Matunaagah I would love to see a video of your technique technique technique. At first run, I would say that a stick isn't a wedge and would therefore offer too much resistance. Whereas with a nice thick blade, a few whacks and the wood spits without that degree of effort.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx Maybe that would work in areas where all available firewood is seasoned, straight-grained, knot-free hardwood, but in real life my technique is infinitely superior. I know, because I too used to brutalize knives through wood with a club before I discovered the technique. Find a dead tree and try it. You will never, ever use any edged tool as a wedge ever again. Furthermore, even the best knives will break unpredictably at some point from battonning them, especially in cold weather.
Matunaagah 1 year ago
@Matunaagah Well, as I said, I would love to see it on video. If you need a camera, I can loan you one. I am a new student of survival and if you have a better technique, I want to see it. How about it?
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx You would give a camera to some random person on the internet? Don't be an idiot. If you want to see it, get off your computer and go outside an DO it. You should not even have to though, it should have clicked in your head that it would work just from reading my description. You must really have no experience with wood to not instantly realize that it would work. I know it works because I do not use any other method to process firewood when camping and backpacking.
Matunaagah 1 year ago
@Matunaagah Well it seems as though you've definitively shown your true colors. You're a poser or as Nutnfancy likes to say, and arm chair elitist. Out of a desire to learn, I offer you a camera and an opportunity to show the world your amazing technique. Instead, I have inadvertently called your bluff. And, as any good poser/bully would do, you run away while yelling insults. Since you have failed to contribute anything meaningful, please consider this discussion over. My channel, my rules.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@Matunaagah So just to get this straight, I am supposed to split a 10 foot log into quarters and then break it into pieces with my foot. I need to cross cut a log (esp a standing dead tree) into manageable portions first just to get it back to camp and axes and hatchets don't excel at crosscutting as I said in the video. I will be posting a video very soon on a new saw that is even lighter and more effective.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx Yes, you have it straight. I can, and frequently have, used this technique to turn an 8-12" thick dry, knotty, dead-standing pine or spruce (the toughest stuff to split EVER) into a pile of firewood fit for a winter night or two in about 40 minutes or less using NOTHING but a small hatchet or large survival knife (the two have come to be nearly interchangeable in my mind).
Matunaagah 1 year ago
@dsheckx The sven?
dedred5 1 year ago
Split a long log into quarters FIRST. The quarter splits will be so easy to score with a hatchet, knife, or whatever, and then snap in half with your foot, that you will never be tempted to bring a saw of any kind in to the woods again. Technique, technique, technique....
Matunaagah 1 year ago
the sawvivor is shit ... check out the comparison, sawvivor vs. laplander by wranglerbarn
also it's held together by pop rivets. freakin pop rivets!
aseglkj 1 year ago
That was exactly the combo I had hoped you would pick! I want it and thanks...as a novice I really thank you...I always learn the hard way and at least with your advise it will be easier on my wallet. No point in having a drawer full of useless crap.... ! I looked at tons of videos and this one actually helped a lot...5 STARS AAA+++
hardhitter0421 1 year ago
Yeah, I have looked at the RTAK. Looks like an absolute jugernaut of a knife. I guess my question about the trail master is, if you had to buy it again, would you spend the extra mony for the San Mai III?
JuiceCook 1 year ago
@JuiceCook For me, no way would I buy the San Mai version. My primary reason isn't even cost (which is huge and about double). The biggest reason in my book is the toughness of the SK-5 versus the San Mai. While it is reasonably tough for stainless, it will chip in high stress impacts and will not recover like the high carbon. So unless you are in a high moisture environment, go with the SK-5 version.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx check out the video called trailmaster epic fail here on youtube
aseglkj 1 year ago
@JuiceCook One other thought. The CS Laredo Bowie is the same steel as the TM but is an inch longer, same width, and only $20 more. I would love to see how this knife performs. It should be more forward weighted as it is lighter but longer than then TM.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@JuiceCook If you go for the SM trail master, you might as well buy the Fallkniven A2. Slightly smaller, but much higher quality and better steel.
aseglkj 1 year ago
Okay thank man. I'm looking for a good camping knife. I already have an old KA-BAR. What would you suggest? Is there anything better than the Trailmaster for the money?
JuiceCook 1 year ago
@JuiceCook I would say that the best competitor to the TM is the Ontario RTAK 2. For reference, the best price for the TM I could find is about $125 and the best price for the RTAK is about $90. So the RTAK is cheaper, heavier (which is better for chopping and limbing), and has a coated blade. Also check smkw. They will occasionally offer the RTAK for less than $60 which is a total steal. The only area where the TM betters the RTAK in my opinion is blade thickness which IS a pretty big deal.
dsheckx 1 year ago
Hey man, great video. What do you think of the San Mai version?
JuiceCook 1 year ago
@JuiceCook Two years ago, I would have said that it is a great stainless option for high moisture environments. Today, I would say it is over priced for a mid quality production knife and it speaks to the over all failure on the part of CS to see how they became as popular as they are. They did it by offering good quality for good prices. Now they think they're Benchmade and can charge $300 for a fixed blade that was made on an automated assembly line. They really need to find their way back.
dsheckx 1 year ago
ok here is the cheapest place you can get them. they might seem a bit expensive but they are worth it trust me i have a BUSSE knife with them and they rock!///// just google//////custom becker BK micarta handels///// and you should find what you are looking for
marshall3win 1 year ago
hey dude on your BK9 you can get micarta grips for it
marshall3win 1 year ago
@marshall3win Where can you get them?
dsheckx 1 year ago
hahahaha Ive Kissed a frog or two myself,But I love my Trailmaster,I want the Recon scout in sk5 so bad I can taste it and its a bitch to find these days.
MrWer1138 1 year ago
What sort of finish is on the New CS trailmaster? And what is the finish on the guards?
1ohtaf1 1 year ago
I would say the finish is a basic, uncoated brushed/matte finish. The hilt is brass as best as I can tell. The lack of coating is a real step down in my opinion. I am hoping to put some sort of durable coating on it later.
dsheckx 1 year ago
@dsheckx Yeah i thought for a carbon steel uncoated is going to get rusted if people dont take care of it, especially with the leather sheath. I prefered the older model, i think CS is trying to make this knife look better but making it worste in the process.
1ohtaf1 1 year ago
Cold steel San Mai or SK5 trailmaster is our all time survival Bowie knife ..
Only one thing I want to suggest you should wash the blade and apply the oil everytime you using them if you really love those blade.
zarnitintunzanyzack 2 years ago
thanks for your comparison. I think you have sound logic and this was a very helpful video.
theWZZA 2 years ago
Good review thanks. Trailmaster realy get the works done for the money love that knive and bring it along all the time. Thinking about a busse but dont know if the cost will bring the work as do the trailmaster.
michelb08 2 years ago
Totally respect your opinion,,in short the best option is save the money and buy the best you can..thanks for your results..
bassfuryvi 2 years ago
That is sound advise. However, my weakness is trying to find an effective system for the least expense. As a result, I end up kissing a few frogs.
dsheckx 2 years ago
I got the recon scout, very good review.
fredde90210 2 years ago