@azhum people who think that they're failing the problem cause the rocks dirty as opposed to them failing cause they can't climb V15. Then getting carried away with wire brushes and cleaning the holds to the point that they change it and make it easier.
People shouldn't use wire brushes to clean rock, if you cant get it off with a toothbrush then it's part of the rock
the difference in betta is incredible. Dave did it with all bumping and never allowing his feet to cut. Sharma skipped holds and just campused 2 or 3 times and dai did explosive moves that were very powerful. How do you rate something like that? they all found ways, but for 1 it might be a v13 and for another a v15.
Fred Nicole put up the FA back in 2000, actually. As to whether it is chipped or not, Nicole claims it is, Graham claims it isn't. Either way, it's now graded at V14 (8B+).
A friend of mine got me into fingerboard training, and it was great! Try doing sets of: 5 seconds hanging, 5 seconds resting, on, off, on, off. Then when that gets too easy, hang some weight off your climbing harness. You'll get strong!
let me settle this grade crap its b3 bitches
mdk623 11 months ago
@mdk623 technically it's B2... B3 means it's only had 1 ascent. any B3 that gets a second ascent is automatically downgraded to a B2
guitarherodw 11 months ago
is this like a right of passage to climbing fame?
Project360Films 1 year ago
Dave is in his own league.
fixer50 1 year ago
its actually been downgraded to a v14 due to chipping... damn shame
L1Articwolf 2 years ago 3
Do you mean people intentionally chipped it? If so, fuck that shit man...
azhum 2 years ago
@azhum people who think that they're failing the problem cause the rocks dirty as opposed to them failing cause they can't climb V15. Then getting carried away with wire brushes and cleaning the holds to the point that they change it and make it easier.
People shouldn't use wire brushes to clean rock, if you cant get it off with a toothbrush then it's part of the rock
LucaBoulders 1 year ago
@L1Articwolf yeah i hear about that. was it before or after sharma did it though? still awsome climb though!!
inderida2000 1 year ago
the difference in betta is incredible. Dave did it with all bumping and never allowing his feet to cut. Sharma skipped holds and just campused 2 or 3 times and dai did explosive moves that were very powerful. How do you rate something like that? they all found ways, but for 1 it might be a v13 and for another a v15.
boxsterwelby 2 years ago 5
at that level if one person say's it's only a v13 then they'd probably downgrade it
yogandclimber 2 years ago
totally true this must have been like a foot more reach for dai.. if dave rates this v15 must have been v16 for dai
huyiy 2 years ago
@boxsterwelby very very very good point... dai is so little and short height and span compared to these guys its gotta be harder for him in V rating
huyiy 4 months ago
dreamtime has been downgraded to V14
jrpimpdog 3 years ago
yeah, i heard that a bunch of idiots scrubbed the top slopery bit with wire brushes and made it more jug like. so stupid!
somegi9 3 years ago 3
Dave has a knack of making things look so crimpy, or is it that its the opposite for chris?
Sharma17 3 years ago 4
This man is amazing.
Jonas223XC 3 years ago 2
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he climbs at night so no one can see him cheat
asdf2000 3 years ago
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it's too bad so few people understand jokes
asdf2000 3 years ago
anyone know the name of the song? great video
Bmikee2 3 years ago
Tosca(artist), "Suzuki in Dub"(Track)
G-Stone(label), It's richard dorfmeister, half of K&D.
OBdizzy 3 years ago
he is sick!
jrpimpdog 4 years ago
V14? not V15? or was it V15 before the broken hold?
elcomedor1 4 years ago
who cares about the grade of it?
it doesn't matter, its still an extremely hard route.
Meahtots 3 years ago 3
who put up the first ascent on this?
elcomedor1 4 years ago
I believe it is chris sharma.
isn there a hold broken of now?
enfingret 4 years ago
Fred Nicole put up the FA back in 2000, actually. As to whether it is chipped or not, Nicole claims it is, Graham claims it isn't. Either way, it's now graded at V14 (8B+).
thefox31 4 years ago
what hold was suppost to be chipped??? im dying to find out.
enfingret 4 years ago
I'm kind of curious about that too. I don't think that the magazine (Gripped) that I read about it in said.
thefox31 4 years ago
sick!
monkeyapeman 4 years ago
that`s sick bouldering!!!! :O
amayalluqu616 4 years ago
dave rockin the zlippers! i've got me a pair...EDGING MACHINES!
bleh2you 4 years ago
Dude those are V10s not zlippers
and if you argue no toe rubber that was the V10 '06 update
climbmac 4 years ago
uhm...okay. i guess i don't know my own shoes then
bleh2you 3 years ago 2
Dude, this was filmed in 2002...
peetanui 3 years ago 3
5 stars. Cheers for the tune, climber, problem, photography etc. Nice post.
OBdizzy 4 years ago
you're born with fingers like that and fucking finaly someone puts good music in a climbing vid...cheers for tosca
pauldrumsfunk 4 years ago
How can I get fingers of steel like that? Is it more than just muscle? (i.e., tendon, connective tissue strength, etc?)?
I can only han g on the ledge of my apartment door (fingertips only) for max 12 seconds.
robertjoellewis 4 years ago
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thats pathetic
SeanSingle 4 years ago
A friend of mine got me into fingerboard training, and it was great! Try doing sets of: 5 seconds hanging, 5 seconds resting, on, off, on, off. Then when that gets too easy, hang some weight off your climbing harness. You'll get strong!
bongosock 4 years ago 3