Added: 3 years ago
From: DavidSunshine867
Views: 79,918
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  • can you email me all your setting

  • Hi Dave, I just watch the Vedio on CCPM you recommended n I followed it to level the swash plate and I was only able to increase the positive pitch to only +5 degree but able to get -10 degree with the 3D switch up. I know I'm screwing with the transmitter setting still. The CCPM Vedio is down with a different transmitter.

  • really helpfull trying to setup my 600

  • It's not a typical setup, I'm using a cf rod and a trex 600 tail servo, the 9254 futaba. The rod is at an angle, good catch, but it's set up to push on the rod straight. If you hold the tail slider and actuate the servo to push against it with full force and it doesn't bind, then the setup will work perfectly in the air. The 9254 has a travel time of .06 s/60deg but still has a lot of torque since it's so big, so if it can't bind the rod, the trex 450 tail will never have a chance.

  • your rear servo rod in the auto rotation bracket looks like its in the wrong hole ?

    looks like its at a angle

  • Yes thanks a ton! I don't know anyone where I live that can help out with helis so I'd be totally lost without guys like you, cheers!

  • Hey man, I made this video in like... the minutes it took to just film that and explain it. I wish I had time to make more videos detailing everything you need to know from top to bottom, but I'm so strapped for time. But ask questions, and I'll try to make videos on how to fix the problems. That's probably a good place to start, and be helpful.

  • Good video Dave.....im just watching it for a third time to take it all in lol

  • Thanks.

    I tried to cover everything I could quickly. There's definitely a lot more things to know about fine tuning the head, for instance, now I have the ball link 1 more hole towards the screw on the servo arm, so 2nd out from the center. Not a big difference, but it'll probably make your servos last a bit longer.

    Also, if you're lookin to set up your head, check out the truebloodengineering web site mentioned in the video details, it helps bigtime! You don't need the tool though.

  • This is very helpful. I am rewatching it right now...LOL! Thanks for the great setup video, 5 stars.

  • yes it is thanks alot if it wasnt for u i would not be flyin and now i am but with 3 servos lol and THANK YOU O AND I GOT MY MD500 BODY ITS SWEET AND LIGHT

  • Haha nice man. You're welcome! Glad you got it all workin, it's all pretty simple if you work your way from the bottom up. You're awesome if you can fly with 2 servos, I can barely fly in a building with 3, and you're flying in a basement with 2. haha. Can't wait to see that MD500 body mod!

  • its nice o and great hobbiesdot com great site for parts 1-2 for ur order to go threw and ship and 8$ shiping from edmon ab and i got it in 9 days not bad now to bad im getting snow here basement time!!

  • Great video =D very helpfull.

  • Thanks man!

    Ya, it's obviously not as detailed as Ray's DVD or finlessbob's, but it's a crash course for my friend.

    It's supposed to summarize setting it up from bottom up, just to show that the swash plate needs to be level throughout, and that it needs to tilt left and right, and forward/backwards, you'd be surprised how often the swash movement is overlooked and reversed. haha.

    Hope it helped you out.

  • I've been looking at rc heli's like that for awhile, kinda nice to know what i'd be getting into, actually... it seems straight forward enough, thanks for the vid

  • Glad it helped you out. Ya, if you actually look at how it works and try to figure it out, it's all simple geometry, and pretty easy to get. Everything just has to be square and level, and it'll fly smoothly.

    A good heli to start is a tough and easy to repair RTF system like the E-Razor 450, others break fairly easily. There's plenty of spare parts, and it's $190 to start you off. You can get free shipping as well, check the video description for link and coupon code.

    Have fun!

  • Also, you should start off with a sim which you can also order from XHELI. You might want to get that first, if you get free shipping anyways, just get the sim first, and play around, then get the heli when you're ready.

    Now, if money isn't an issue, get a Trex 450 Pro, Hitec HS65MGs, Logictech 2100T gyro and 3100G servo combo, Scorpion 2221-8V2 motor, Scorpion 55A-V2 ESC, 2200mAh 30C lipos, and a good lipo charger. It'll all cost about $1000 or more, but it'll be quality equipment.

  • i watched it again and i notised that my heli when id move the tail the slider would move like u said but now it doesnt wat do i do

  • If your light is solid, it might be that your gyro gain is too low, increase it until the tail slider starts moving.

    The slider moves with rudder input and the light is solid right?

  • it use to move but now it does but very litte and my light blinks so ill watch finless bob video again

  • In the video you said place the pitch gauge on the flybar paddle. That is wrong! it will never work. what you do to measure your cyclic pitch is to put it back on the blade like your reading normal pitch. For Aileron put your blades parallel with your tail boom this will read the right amount of pitch when you place full aileron NOW left and right will not give you both positive. I forget but one is negative one is positive try to get at LEAST 6 deg pitch on cyclic I go for 8. and pitch +- 12.

  • Thanks for explaining how to measure cyclic pitch through the main blades.

    You can do it either way, the flybar paddle method has always worked for me.

    There are flybar paddle pitch gauges for adjusting the flybar paddles, and that's essential to a properly tuned heli.

    The flybar paddle attack angle is directly linked to the swash tilt, that's why I like adjusting it that way. If you adjust it using the main blades, you NEED to be at 0 deg pitch, and the flybar must be level.

  • im that friend lol

  • Haha, you'll be all set up and flying in no time Nick!

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