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From: AsktheBuilder
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  • Great videos, it's nice learning and reaffirming what some people know!

  • Tim, in your opinion, does a 3|4 plywood on a old 1958 wood floor would be enought to install really tick ceramic tile or should I add another layer of plywood? I just don't want to spend too much money for fun ;-).

    Thanks you rock.

  • thank you, thank you, thank you for the tip about varathane. someone who lived here before poured levelling compound directly onto plywood and it soaked through and dripped into the basement. Now when I re-do it I'll put varathane and hopefully it helps.

  • tim,this tips of yours apply on wooden walls for bathroom?my dad installed plywood for wall for the bathroom,what tips can you give me on this please

  • @wangbungal If it's plywood in a tub or shower area here's my tip. TAKE IT DOWN and replace with cement board. Go to my AsktheBuilder website and read all my past columns on cement board and how to install it.

  • @AsktheBuilder Tim, is there anyway i could still use the plywood,by putting a membrane and putting cement board on top of it?

  • @wangbungal After you read all those columns at my website like I requested you do, what did you discover? You did read the columns didn't you? Surely you did. It's time for you to go back and read them again.

  • Tim, I have a question,we have our house tiled like 3 years ago, and today we start noticing some areas on the house when we step on it it feels hollow and about to crack. what could be the cause of this? our flooring underneath is concrete,hope you could give me ideas to fix this and prevent this from happening

  • @wangbungal Sounds like the adhesive has failed. Not enough adhesive was used as there had to be either a high or low spot under the tiles.

  • Tim, thanks again! I I have another question: Could you tile right over plywood for, say, a bathroom cabinet made of the stuff? Or a kitchen countertop, without adding backer-board?

  • Tim,

    Will there be problems with the mortar bonding to the sealed wood surface? Should I add anything to help this? Thanks!

  • @echtconservative I would put down a membrane that prevents the mortar bonding with the wood. There are all different types.

  • I disagree... wood subfloors will expand and contract differently during seaonal temp./humidity changes than tile and slate will. You really should use a membrane or cement backerboard over the wood subfloor

  • @smethious Thanks for your comment. Many of us who place videos on YouTube wish people like you would read all the comments before making one. Why? Because this has already been discussed earlier.

  • @smethious i agree one hundred%. i would never lay tile on wood without backerboard and screwed every 4-6 inches square. first ceramic isnt impervious as porcelian. why dont do it the right way the first time to save future problems. but hey only my opinion right.

  • @jrlamberth Thanks for your comment. Remember, this video is just showing an alternative method that was approved by the Tile Council of America at the time the video was taped. Do I install tile this way each time? Absolutely not. It's just another way to do it that works. The slate floor on top of this wood substrate has been down for over 20 years with no cracks. So it works.

  • please show more tile on wood floor

  • hi! i have t&g flooring. is it possible to do the same? and it's on the second floor.. and downstairs is the stockroom for the mini store... i have a doubt.. and a little scared the ceramic tile might crack... pls tell me i'm doing the right thing.... first is i'll screw the t&g and then, apply water based urethane, i'll put galvanized chicken wire and nail it to the floor, and apply the tiles. is it correct? or do i have to put 2" thick cement? pls help me asap. thanks... rona(philippines)

  • what kind of adhesive should i use on the OSB, for the ceramic tile? The ordinary one used also for concrete or there is a special one for OSB? Thank you

  • Hi, just a quick question. We want to tile the kitchen and dining room and we have wooden floors also. At the moment we just have vinyl in these rooms. Would it be ok to tile straight over the vinyl so that it could act as a waterproof barrier or are we better off just pulling it out and starting from scratch? thanks

  • I tiled my kitchen floor exactly this way. No cracked tile, no grout cracks, nothing. Rolled refrigerators across it. Everything. Still looks perfect. Oh ... and I laid that floor 22 years ago. I did put a latex additive to good quality thin set as a bit of insurance. Not my original idea ... it says to do that right on the bag of thinset mortar. States quite clearly that if you do that, then tile over plywood is just fine. Solid info here.

  • Many thanks for sharing that story! The red-slate flooring I installed over this plywood in this video is also in perfect shape. No cracks in the slate or the grout.

  • @Paige9900 Paige, yours is the exception to the rule. Adam's right. There've been a whole lot of specs left out that in most cases, will make the difference between success and failure.

  • Well you should take the video down if your not going to cover all of it. also you claim that the The Tile Council of America approves what you are doing can you please tell me what page.

  • I have this enormous grin on my face as I type this. I went to your channel. There's not one ceramic tile video there. If you're the resident YouTube Ceramic Tile guru, then why aren't there a collection of videos on your channel showing all of us the *correct* way to do tile? Are you unable to do them? Are you not able to go to the Tile Council of America's site and see yourself the tech specs showing tile over a wood floor? Now I'm shaking my head and grinning. :->>>>> You crack me up.

  • I'm a Flooring contractor. You forgot a few things.....you need to use a plywood like fir the joints MUST be gapped at least 1/8" and caulked. Then mesh tape must be used over the joints. Make sure you use something like laticretes 317/333 combo. If you want to waterproof the plywood you should use laticretes 9235 or kerdi or ditra.

  • I didn't forget anything.... :->>>> The topic of this video was to tell people that *if* they were going to install tile over wood - an approved method - then they should consider treating the wood to prevent water from swelling the plywood. The video was never intended to be a complete tutorial. That would be a 90-minute video series.....

  • I'm a tile setter with 30 yrs exp, and I try to avoid setting over wood floors, but sometimes the existing elevations make that impractical. In that case their are specialized adhesives that are designed to flex somewhat and are rated to use over wood. You do NOT use the cheapest "floor grey" thinset in these cases.

  • Tim, don't you worry. There are many of us that understand the complexity of building anything and trust that you are aware of any possible defect that can occur. Simply put, I trust your opinion. Thanks a million for taking your time and effort to share with us.

  • tim, you must be getting sick to the back teeth defending this vid.right or wrong, personally i´d have taken it off just to save the agro.

  • Not getting sick at all. I'm constantly amazed at the depth of ignorance, or inability to give another method a chance. The Tile Council of America approves the method. I'm getting ready to disable comments though.... To put an end to it.

  • oh.i guess my heads on the chopping block.i have to admire your tenacity though.

  • Not at all. All you have to do is read my Comment Policy on the home page of this channel.

  • I would never tile over a wood floor. You need to use minimum 1/4" cement board to not only stiffen the floor but more importantly level it out if you have 2x6 subfloors found in many older homes.

  • The cement board will not stiffen the floor. Not a sheet that thin. I'm here to tell you that you can successfully tile over wood floors. I've done it for years with NO cracks. The demon is lots of deflection. You want no less than 1/480 and better yet, 1/720. Go to my web site and read all my past columns about Wood Floors and Ceramic Tile. I talk about the span tables there.

  • I'm installing ceramic tile to a wood floor i was going to add cement board but that would raise

    the floor is it possible that i can lay a thin layer of cement with a wire screen to comfinsate?

  • Yes, Good luck getting it in the same plane! They make 1/4 -inch cement board.

  • You do not tile over plywood, wood sucks up moisture, the movent caused by natural expansion and contraction are beyond what is an acceptable tolerance in a Ceramic/porcelain or natural stone floor.

  • It's an approved method by the Tile Council of America. Check their specifications. You may want to take your beef up with them.

  • There is more to it, thinset type, material being intalled, space of floor joists, thickness and type of plywood. A good installer still wont do it.

  • No doubt the wood floor system has to be strong. I cover that in great detail in columns at my website. Tens of thousands of old homes have tile set on wood-floor systems. Many with no cracking. If done right, it's not an issue. This video just explains one little tip to prevent the swelling of the wood. This video was never intended to be a complete tutorial. That would take well over an hour of video. Maybe you should do it on your channel as you seem to know much about the topic?????

  • HARDI BOARD OVER WOOD - ALWAYS

  • Dens-Guard is also a great product. I've used it with fantastic results.

  • thanks for the info!

  • @0.28 squeaks????? i think you need new wooden floor, those move with a push from a finger= its broken-rotten... remove and renew

  • Doesn't the size and strength of the tile make a big difference in what practices are acceptable? I have a 50 year old bathroom floor of mosaic over plywood; it has needed some re-grouting and a few super glue injections, but it's solid now. I put 12X12 marble-plastic composite tile over 2 lyr. of old plywood in my kitchen with no problems. But I'd be nervous doing that with 12X12 ceramic, since cracked tiles would be a death sentence for the floor. Is this a reasonable concern?

  • I could type for hours..... Go to my website and read all of my ceramic tile columns - especially the ones about Ceramic Tile and Wood Floors.

  • You might consider installing some hardi-backer first bonded with thinset! Works good over wood sub-floors!

  • Indeed it does! The Tile Council approves wood subfloors, and this video was about one method that was approved over 20 years ago. That's when the actual two layers of plywood were installed. The homeowner allowed that floor to sit unfinished for 15 years. That's when I showed up to do the slate and I had to work with what was there.

  • I have helped put down tile once and we did not use a sealant. always interesting to watch new videos from Tim,simple tricks to make something last longer

  • i don`t want to get into a slanging match.but your being pretty presumious saying im not sharing my knowledge.posting it on youtube is your way.

  • No worries. It's not presuming anything. I just visited your channel and there's not one video that you've produced. My point all the time is that if you have information about a topic, tape a video. YouTube is a *video* site. It's not a 1990's written forum site. If you want to chat and leave written comments, I suggest you go to that type of site. That was my point.

  • i´m commenting from scandinavia where regulations are strickt but they build thing s to last.and they do.

  • If you follow the recommendations of the thinset manufacturer they will tell you that you can not have any sort of paint, urethan, or anything else where the thinset is to bond the tile. You really need to read the National Tile Contractors Association guide for tiling before giving advice to people. Sorry but what you say is not the tile industry approved way of laying tile. It's nice for people to share knowledge but make shure you are giving the correct method to people.

  • Thanks for your comment. At the time that slate was installed, there was no such recommendation on the bags of thinset I used. What's more, that slate has been down now for about ten years and it perfectly adhered. BTW, I went to your channel and there is no profile information, no name, no videos no nothing. If you're a tile expert, why aren't you sharing your knowledge? You know the old saying: Actions speak louder than words.

  • I agree with what your saying but you need to post these are old videos,someone might try it and a insurance company WILL NOT cover something like that.although it very well might work

  • Good point, but *no one* does that. Do you see Bob Vila or any other talent say at the front end of their videos, "Hi, it's 1974 and today we're going to frame this wall....." The truth be told the method I show in the video will work today just as well as it did then. The Tile Council has to deal with situations where tile is placed on minimal wood conditions. Read all the other comments here. Insurance? You're dreaming. You better get out your policy. Make a claim and you'll get cancelled.

  • i`ll tell that one to my insurance company.

  • you yanks are backward,never tile directely onto a living material.

  • As I replied in other comments, It worked on this floor because the wood had been down 13 years before it was tiled. It was completely stabilized. The slate is crack-free. Is it the best practice? No. Can it work? Yes, if the conditions are right.

  • i live on a boat but want to tile the hull. im not stupid, im using 15mm ceramic cobolt faceted kimodo stringed back liarda tiles, imported from italy, specially designed for the job. can you tell me if theres a way to fix the tiles to the hull without having to take the boat out of the water? dry docks charge by the day, something like $750 per day. anyone got any ideas?

  • hey Tim, thanks for your tips, but I have a question.... what is better, applying a wood finishing to a subfloor surface or attach a cement backer board. this is remodelation for my bathroom, but i dont want to get a very thick floor, compared to my hall floor

  • Use the thinest cement board you can get. 1/4-inch is made. Good luck to you

  • I live in a condo (2nd floor) and I want to lay tile on the floor. I was told that I have to lay durock first before I lay tile, if so what size of durock should I use.

  • Possibly one-half inch. You are a perfect candidate for my new Slate/Ceramic-Tile eBook that shows you the step-by-step method. Go to my website and then hit Shop at the Top. Look in eBooks.

  • You should reference people to check their floor deflection before telling them it's ok to tile directly only ply. People need to meet the L720 rating first.

    What industry standard states you can do this type of installation?

  • Mark,

    I talk all about this at my website. I went to your channel and not one video there where you share your knowledge. How about you share your accumulated experience with videos showing what you know.

  • I am 27 I have been doing tile since I was 19 I personnaly have never set tile over a sub floor without hardi but I am also from california and the only product I use is ultraflex2 which states that it is fine to use over 1/2 inch ply so who the hell knows if it cracks or is totally cool?

  • You can come here to that room and see there are no cracks in that slate floor. It has been down longer than you have been setting tile. What's more, I have seen massive cracking in tile floors that are on concrete slabs, on top of cement board, etc. If you want crack-free tile, the floor needs to be solid and the crack-isolation fabrics are recommeneded.

  • AHHGH! Inappropriate use of drywall screws! Drywall screws are for drywall. Will everyone please STOP using them (and promoting their use) elsewhere? I've even seen framing done with them- very frightening!

    They make flooring screws for a reason...

  • I agree with you to a point. No doubt they are NOT structural screws, but in flooring I have not had a failure in over 25 years. I just had to take out my kitchen floor that had hundreds of drywall screws holding the second layer of plywood to the subfloor. Each screw was as tight as the day installed. No heads had snapped.

  • Thanks! I think you have a typo...... :->

  • I would trust Tim to do my tiling. :P

  • Can I tile on top of my hard wood floors w/out the use of backerboard?

  • You can. Go read my columns about this at my website. You have to have a certain thickness subfloor and certain joists.

  • Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!

  • a two part flexible polymer adhesive and grout with a flexible aditive is perfectly sufficient to fix floor tiles on ply as long as its well screwed down to stop flex and movement..iv been fixing tiles like this 4 ten yrs with no problems

  • a 2 part flexible adhesive and a grout with flexi aditive is perfectly suitable 4 fixing tiles to a wooden floor as long as its screwed down well to prevent flex and movement

  • I don't have any video's up on youtube, but a slideshow of some of my work is on myspace. Look it up by typing in that website followed by /chrisufc.

  • Recent developments have provided proffesionals with new options. As long as your subfloor meets deflection requirements for the mortar and tile, there are products now out such as Laticrete's Hydroban. It's a 1 part liquid that can be brushed or rolled on. It works as a waterproofing, gap filler, and fracture membrane up to 1/8". Great for shower pans. Check it out!

  • A handfull of years ago I went to a 2 day seminar with Custom Building Products. Their rep stated that their standard latex modified mortar would be fine over exterior grade plywood provided you had a minimum of two layers, each a minimum of 5/8"(totaling 1-1/4"). 1st layer screwed to joists. 2nd screwed every 6".

  • I must say that I would never recomend setting tile on plywood. It definitly is not the best idea, however, the thing I am the most confused about is why would you take all that time and trouble to put on another subfloor and urethane the top? It seems like alot of wasted time. Plus, I think everyone probably knows, It is always better to have a concrete board subfloor. I have been setting tile for 8 years. And no, I don't have any videos of tilling.

  • I have answered this in many other responses below. You may want to spend the time to read them. I guarantee that you will learn something, the first being that the method shown in the video is an approved method - F155-07 - as outlined in the 2007 TCA Handbook. Being a tilesetter, I am a little surprised you did not know that.

  • when tiling on wood floors you can either use backerboard or *wait for it because this is special* plywood, preferably 12mm ply the thicker it is the less movement, that is how we do it in the UK and screws normally go down every 6 inches, again if it is a small floor i do every 4 inches, if a big floor 6 inches, the fact your questioning plywood FULLSTOP makes me wonder where u learn't how to tile, the floor adhesives doesn't need a primer coat because it is already in the adhesive nowadays.

  • I think there might be confusion. The sealer shown in the video is to stop water from the adhesive from causing the wood to swell. If the wood swells, it pops the tile or slate off the floor.

  • i was commenting on vineyarddna's comment about the ply, a good exterior grade eagle ply is enough, but for extra peace of mind a primer can also be used

  • Is there any reason not to use an oil based tile adhesive over wood rather than a cement/water based adhesive?

  • Most oil-based adhesives do not offer the strengh characteristics of cement-based adhesives.

  • I have used them for tiles on wood with no problem. They offer more flexibility. Cement will crack and start to break up whereas the oil based adhesive will remain flexible.

    On a really solid floor, the cement of course is the right choice. Heck, if you don't have a really solid wood floor base maybe ceramic tiles are not the way to go at all.

  • Jim,

    I have to disagree. Go watch my Kitchen Remodeling video. In the first minute, you will see workers using a jackhammer to take ceramic tile off my *wood* subfloor. It was put down with cement thinset 20 years ago.....

  • who cares that the people commenting don't have videos! what does that have to do with anything? by the way, spend the extra time and or money to set over mud or some kind of a backer board. you've been doing this for 30 plus years?

  • This video shows *one* method to prevent wood from swelling. Read all comments below and grab a copy of the written TCNA Installation Standards from eight years ago. Remember the old adage: Actions speak louder than words. If you desire credibility, *show* us your game. Thanks for stopping by.

  • Thanks but I don't have the time for videos. I make my living by installing tile and educating my customers. Too tired at the end of the day to put out a video. Easier to refer them to the "Tile Your World" forums. You should check it out sometime when you get a break from your video career. You may learn a thing or two.

  • Here are some facts you probably don't know: 1.This video was taped *before* crack isolation fabrics were invented and the method used was 100% approved by the TCNA. 2. The slate that is installed over this floor is fully adhered. 3. Excuses are reasons for failure. Once again, thanks for commenting.

  • I've been in the tile installation business for 20 years. If I had been installing tile over wood during these years, I would be out of business. There is a reason that products like cement board, fiber board, and various uncoupling membranes are on the market. To those who watch this lame video, PUL-EAZE talk to a professional installer before following this horrible advice.

  • Thanks for your comment!  I went to your channel and you are invisible. No identity, no videos, no nothing. You should invest your time sharing your knowledge with videos. Plus, the TCNA standards say it is fine to install over wood. See below.

  • This is just an awful idea, any tile installer {worth his salt} knows there's basically no reason to install tile over plywood, period. But hey, with advice like this, it will keep professional tile installers busy running around tearing out tile installed like this. And no I don't have time to post a video, but it's better not to post at all, then give out bad advise.

  • Rob, Thanks for your comment! One of the top Tile Installation Associations in the USA disagrees with your comment. What's more, tile has been installed for well over 100 years on wood floors. In all seriousness, why is your channel a vacuum? There is no personal information, no identity, no videos where you share your knowledge, etc. That makes it really hard for us to lend and credibility to your comments.

  • I have 25 years in the Tile business, if you want to tell people to install tile over plywood, it's fine by me.

  • Thanks for sharing. I'll see your 25 and raise you 10. The best part is that I know of hundreds and hundreds of tile floors over wood sub-bases that are in excellent condition - including my own home. The key is using the 1/480 deflection as the minimum standard as well as those things called for by the TCNA standards.

  • idiot...if you are using a water based primer it will emulsify when wet anyway you are a joker who knows very little about tiling

  • Thanks for your comment! It wasn't a primer. It was urethane. When urethane cures - and this one does in about 24 hours - it is not soluble by water. Don't you use urethane to protect wood floors over there in the UK? I couldn't tell from your channel, as there is absolutely nothing there. No videos, no information about your background, nothing. It is as if you are invisible.

  • Urethane to plywood? Why? Use 25 mm thick WBP plywood, coated with acylic primer on the underside and edges, screwed down at 300mm centres onto a reasonably rigid flooring, then tiled using 1 part flexible adhesive. They won't de-bond for at least 10 years unless you're flooded.

  • I have never had plywood swell because of the water content in mortar or grout,nor have I ever heard of it in the 12 years I have been a flooring installer. I believe adding urethane to the plywood won't help and will in fact give a weaker bond between the tile and plywood.I'm sure you're trying to help first out the do-it-yourselfers, but it would be a shame if their floors failed.

  • Thanks for your comment! I had it happen once on a job 20 years ago and it was a horrible mess. After that, I always used urethane and it never happened again. Urethane is an incredible adhesive. If you apply the thinset within hours of applying the urethane, the bond is *stronger*. Since this video was taped, I *also* recommend using other underlayments and crack-isolation fabrics. The purpose of the video is for those who still install over wood.

  • What the hell? Why did you sync that video so quietly only to have a loud, annoying guy promote the website at the end? That was incredibly RUDE! Good Day Sir/Madame!

  • Thanks for your comment. I did have a volume issue on a few videos. That has since been fixed. Polite comments like yours are always welcome.

  • Yikes.....Ask the builder has no clue what he is talking about, when it comes to tiling anyway!

  • Thanks for your comment! Your username makes me think you install tile. If so, please share your method with all of us. YouTube is such a great tool to show the world your skills. We all look forward to your videos about installing ceramic tile.

  • This video would make any tilesetter laugh. This isn't even close to being correct. You are doing those that don't know a disservice with your method. People are likely to believe what you say, you need to inform yourself before you post advice

  • Well, hopefully some *professional* tile setter with a good sense of humor, and who has a YouTube account (wink, wink), will start sharing their knowledge with their own videos. You don't happen to know anyone like that, do you? :-)

  • I use durock or permabase (cement board) on a wood floor. I first apply thinset and then install the cement board with 1-5/8" screws about 6-8 inches apart. It's worked great. I think it might be a little more expensive than plywood though.

  • ok, yall I need to know the proper method of installing a tile floor over wood..what protection does the wood need? Cause I'm a do-it-yourself granny with no knowledge and not much money.

  • Well Granny, The floor in that video has now been down for six years and it is perfect. No delamination. Everyone needs to realize the wood subfloor is very stable in most houses. The interior temp and humidity is often quite close for those who use AC in the summer and humidifiers in the winter. This keeps the wood from moving which can cause the bond to break between the thinset and tile/slate.

  • well, the reason my account is vacent is because i only take stills for work...but next time i have a chance i'll pay one of the guys to sit and hold a vieo camera, instead of work.

  • coward

  • Thanks for your comment! YouTube is such a great tool to show the world your skills. We all look forward to your videos about installing ceramic tile.

  • a.t.b! i really gotta say that i'm surprised you let any of these people comment you. because you block comments you don't like. but i have to admit water tight is right. back in the day olg guys used to use builders felt. but IT was like 50 lb. and it seperated like ditre and blocked mud and wood from touching. but i would never apply c.tile directly to wood sealed or not.

  • What? I allow *many* comments I don't like. But I do indeed block comments that are offensive, not true or misleading. I feel that if a person has a YouTube account, they can use THEIR channel to voice THEIR opinions. You know the old saying: Actions (videos) speak LOUDER than words. Another one is: Put up or shut up. :-)

  • would there still be shrinking in the wood floor, I did a remodel last week and the installer before me set the tile directly on the subfloor, although there was no deflection every single tile in all the bathrooms could be pulled up by hand which made my job easy, I installed sluter ditra over the floor then installed tile

  • Wood is hygroscopic. It can expand and contract over time with changes in humidity. A crack-isolation fabric is the best way to go. This video was just showing what to do *if* you had to install tile directly on a solid-wood floor system.

  • Then you should say this in the video. The video implies that the demonstrated method is the preferred way to do it.

  • Thanks for your advice. I will say to you what I say to many. Consider using your YouTube account for its designed purpose. Get a camera, tape your own video showing your thoughts and methods about how you would install tile. The point of my video is that my method works. You can come and see it for yourself. Not one popped piece of slate.

  • Thanks for the invitation. Where is the house?

  • Cincinnati, OH

  • Excellent. My wife has extended family in Cinci that we visit. I'll contact you when we're making our next trip.

  • Fantastic! All I ask is that once you see the installation, you come back and tell all what you saw.

  • When I do, will you unconditionally post my comment? You've already rejected one that in no way could have been defined as "offensive, not true or misleading".

  • Absolutely yes so long as you tell the truth. Your concern is that the slate has popped off the wood subfloor. It has not. Why? Because the temperature and humidity of the wood floor is constant year-round. I will once again say what I say to many: If you have a message to broadcast about how things should be done, invest the time doing it with a video on your channel. Your perception of the rejected comment is more than a little subjective.

  • Posting comments is a function provided by YouTube as a way of responding to a video's content which is what I'm doing. I believe your goal for this video is to help others be able to do this job themselves. I've read your responses here and watched several of your other videos. You obviously have a good deal of knowledge about DIY projects, but I believe the lack of complete information could cause others with less knowledge and experience to have a failed floor. Neither of us want that.

  • @AsktheBuilder Im remodeling my kitchen. I have almost the same situation here. I have 5/8 plywood over wood planks in a herringbone fashion. I can see from other projects Im doing that both the entry and bathroom were tiled directly over this. I believe I can safely continue that in the kitchen. My question is: I live in NC and it does get humid. What keeps the temp and humidity of his wood floor constant year round? Could I expect the same results?

  • @daltonkern89 The answers are somewhat lengthy and complex. This is why I have a 15-Minute Consult phone call in my Shopping Cart at my AsktheBuilder website.

  • @AsktheBuilder Thanks but no thanks. I realize your time is valuable but the economy is tough all around. I think I will take my chances. Just wanted some reassurance. Thank you for posting the video. It was exactly what I was looking for and NO ONE ELSE had it posted anywhere.

  • Though you idea of waterproofing the wood is a good idea, you used the wrong product. Not one thin set manufacturer would warranty their product over a urethane product.

  • Thanks for your comment. Your point *may* be true at this time. What brands prohibit the use of urethane? I just checked the warranty on three separate bags of thinset I have and could find no reference to voided warranty and urethane. If the plywood had multiple coats that produced a slick film, I could understand your reasoning. But one coat soaks deeply into the coarse grain of CDX plywood leaving enormous amounts of rough surface area for the thinset bonding.

  • What could you use for the underlyment?

    A rubber matting comes to mind.

  • Oh, lots of things. Pure cement board, cement board with small styrofoam balls, and any number of gypsum-based products meant for underlayment beneath tile. I just used one in one of my bathrooms.

  • Firstly, as evidenced by the deflection at the floor register, that subfloor isn't stiff or strong enough for ceramic, let alone stone (slate) tile. Secondly, where the heck in ANSI or the TCNA handbook did you find the urethane solution to water absorption??? The importance of an underlayment is that it isolates the tile from these distructive conditions.

  • That slate floor is crack-free. What was not shown is that AFTER the video was taped, I went into the basement and put blocking around that register. The urethane spec is missing in the standards. It should be included. I agree 100% about crack-isolation fabrics. That is another video. Perhaps you might do it before I do. Wink, wink ;-)

  • "After" installation??? And how was that little gem left out of your instructional video? If you think your urethane short-cut belongs in industry standards, why not submit it to the Tile Council of North America for consideration? Spreading that sort of "hack", without documentation to support it, is irresponsible.

  • The bitterness in your comments is very unprofessional. The video was not about repairing subfloors. As for a *hack* solution, that is your opinion. What is lacking in your comments is a better solution to stopping moisture movement from the thinset into the porous wood substrate. You have a YouTube account, why don't you use it making your own videos to spread your wealth of knowledge?

  • why would u see it as a "shortcut".. It seals the wood, hence it's as watertight as should reasonably be expected. good enough for any do it yourselfer, i would guess. I'm sure many don't even go that far with success.

  • I suspect you are replying to tommynos' comments. The urethane does a superb job of isolating the water from the thinset.

  • yes i am. Not a tiler, but common sense tells me this would work just fine.

  • I can't believe you would set tile on plywood I don't care if there are 4 sheets remember code is just another word for minimum

  • I only recommend it when the joists are sized to the 1:480 deflection standard, and set on 16" centers. The minimum plywood thickness must be 1 and 1/4". Cement board flexes *more* than plywood, so putting 1/2-inch cement board on top of 3/4 ply is no better.

  • When you are putting ceremic tile down I always though you are supposed to put a backer board down designed for ceremic tile. Could the ceremic tile crack due to the movement of the wood.

  • Backerboard and crack-isolation fabric are great ideas. If the wood is stable and the humidity in the house is constant, there are no problems. At the time this video was taped, and I believe it is still accepted, the Tile Council of America approved tile over wood that is at least 1 1/4" thick. That is why I show two layers of plywood.

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