I DON'T AGREE. Since the battery can provide about 300 amps at 12V (more than enough for all those accessories), how do you know that the alternator is working ? I think a battery needs at least 13.5V to charge, so I'd say your charging system is not working (at least at the 'worst case scenario').
I never really understood where the word grease monkey originated from until seeing a couple of videos haha :-p I still owe you that beer by the way!!! Thanks for sharing your wisdom! The car stuff is also interesting ;-)
eric, what im using to know if the alternator is working is by simply using an AC/DC clamp ammeter, in this way i know how much current my alternator is giving.
@MrZdog76, very informative, do this on a modern car and it will fry out your computer box(ECU),fuel injector, alternator, a/c circuit, car stereo,and all the electrical that is switch on when you remove the battery cable...
Your good at explaining stuff not like some other videos thanks I don't know anything about cars nd stuff nd I'm Bearly gunna go to wyo tech to studies as a auto mechanic nd I mostly know stuff thanks;)
i just changed my alternator on my 91 eagle tsi and i had to boost my battery everything was smooth and when i disconnected my jumper cables it was still running smooth and all of a sudden my headlights went dim so i gave it a rev then my headlights and interior lights got super bright my headlights popped (burnt out) it was like it got too much power than it started sputtering around and died and it wouldnt start again unless i give my car a boost. what do you think can cause that
Eric, my Astro Van battery light come on when I start the engine and idle but disappears when I drive the van even at idle. Serpentine belt is new. What to look for? Videos are very informative. Keep it up.
@EricTheCarGuy Eric i just came from the mechanic and he tested the battery on my car. the results were good. my problem is the battery light flashes sometimes while I'm driving. I installed a new alternator about 5 months ago. The car is driving fine, my wife just drove 100 miles without any issues, I'm concerned that the battery light flashes. can you tell me what could cause this? Thanks
@MrZdog76 Very bad idea. System is not designed to run this way and can result in electronic components burning out. New computer is some 600 dollars. You can blow the rectifiers in a good alternator.
Eric your the man and i agree this is 100% on the money.but if you dont have this stuff and you are questioning you (Alt) You could disconnect your battery and if you car dies it means your (alt is dead or a lose wire)
It does not mean ur alt is perfect thow...It could be weak.
Iv heard you can unhook you battery with the car running and Turn on everything(lights radio ac/heater-fans)and if your engine starts missing or idling bad
Changed the voltage regulator to an electronic transistorized one because of a lot of debris on the points, and one reman Champion 61 Amp alternator later, it's making 14.7V at idle, charging light flickering gone. Too bad I couldn't get an original new Delco-Remy mechanical regulator, those are beautifully built. Autopsy on old alternator showed a massive short inside one of the coils, ?dropped one phase? Now completely fixed - fun times!
@sbakar Yea when you mentioned full fielding didn't make any difference I was thinking the voltage regulator was OK, if it was bad you would have seen an increase in voltage during the full field, based on your description it does sound like it might have lost a phase or some other issue with the alternator itself. Thanks for the comment.
@EricTheCarGuy The points in the regulator had a lot of debris and pitting - looked pretty bad, so even if it wasn't the cause, making it solid-state was probably not a waste of money. Funny how transistors were just starting to become mainstream way back then :)
Diagnosed a charging light flickering on at idle in a 1965 Buick Wildcat today. There was only 13.2V at 2000 rpm from the alternator, dropping to 12.3V at idle. Belt was tight, no pulley wobble. Full field test did nothing to raise the voltage. Voltage regulator was the original Delco-Remy mechanical points-type regulator - made in CANADA. Also noticed that the alternator was getting extremely hot even after 2 minutes of running from cold - it was a Remy reman of unknown origin, 2 months old.
LOL! Your videos are just like mine. Not a whole lot of editing, just wing it out there and let it ride! lol!
Question for ya'. I keep going through alternators on my 383 stroker motor. It seems that if I tighten the alternator belt up to where I think it should be, the alternator goes out after a few days of very spirited driving with high RPM's. Any thoughts? This only happens when I take the slop out of the belt.
@Junkman2000 If you get the tension too tight you can ruin the bearing however that seems like a short amount of time for a bearing to go out. Are they going out because of an electrical failure or a mechanical one?
@EricTheCarGuy The failure is definitely due to the high RPM's when I'm doing some really spirited driving. I think I need to put a larger pulley on the alternator. I checked my new alternator yesterday and it was showing a charging value of 15+ volts. That kinda caught me off guard. I didn't know they put out that kinda voltage for a '79 El Camino. It's working great right now but if I keep slamming the throttle, it won't last long. It's an AC Delco with a lifetime warranty.
This is off topic but I've noticed this in a few of your videos... The US flag you have is mounted backwards. The stars go on the upper left. Not trying to be a jerk, just saying. (And I am a far, far cry from a flag Nazi.)
@pandurate That's been pointed out and in later videos I've replace it and hung it properly. In the new shop it hangs properly in the background. Thanks for the comment.
This is the 3rd alternator in 6 months that i have bought. What keeps damaging my alternators? I have a small amp and a sub, no more than that. The other day something really weird happen, I started my car and the voltage meter stay a bit above 12 start driving and stayed there after 5 min of driving went up as normal to about 14. Today just stayed at 12
@unidad355 It may be how you have your system hooked up or there may be some other issue in the electrical system. You may want to watch the other video that I did on this, Alternator Diagnosis 101.
When you test the alternator. Does it make any difference whether the battery is in good condition or not?
I did that same test with everything turned on. I get 11.8-11.9V when radiator fan is running but it gets above 12V when it's turned off. Is my alternator bad?
@thaik56 You might want to also watch the video I did on Alternator Diagnosis 101 for more detailed information but yes, you do need to make sure you have a good battery before doing any testing on the rest of the electrical system.
Hey Eric, I hear a squealing noise from somewhere around the alternator. I checked the voltage from battery using a multimeter it was fine measuring about 12 V and 14.27 V with the engine turned on. When I unplug the alternator, the noise goes away, when I turn the AC on, the noise goes away but without AC running, I hear that continuous noise. The more I drive, the worse it gets. I am sure my alternator is good, so it has to be something else
@cooolguy1986 I would check the belt tension, I would also check the condition of the belt itself, if it's glazed or shows signs of age you might consider replacing it.
My truck was having trouble turning on so i replaced the battery and now it turns on good but it reads at 11.1 volts and now my check engine light can this be caused by the alternator and some times by truck turns off when im braking and making a turn.
@points2shopPROOF You may want to watch the other video I did on this Alternator Diagnosis 101 for some more testing but if your having charging system issues (and by the sound of it you are) it's a good idea to check the alternator output, if you have the 11.1V that you say you have this is far below what the alternator should be putting out. Good luck.
Can use a digital voltmeter too at the battery and never at the alternator.You get unaccurate results at the alternator.Have seen why the alternator on a Chevy did not work right once and was a simple fix.Owner's son forgot to plug in the plug in for the alternator,was not charging.
i knew that was my alternator because about 3 weeks ago when i was driving there was raining and i had everything that you said in the video "radio,windshields, rear defogger, headlights,fog lights" and i feel like my car die right there
@flywelder There is a 'contact' link on my website if you need but keep in mind I get a LOT of email so it may be some time before I get to your question.
part 2 If I attempt to hold the engine speed at anything below 1500rpm it will not stay at the RPM I hold the throttle to, rather, it will drop back down low, then come back up again, and continue to do so despite me holding the throttle. When cold, and starting out down the road, {engine dog house cover is off so I can observe} the engine feels held back when trying to accelerate and bucks, misfires, back fires through the intake if accelerating and if more load is applied.
@flywelder I'm guessing it's a fuel injected engine, if this is the case I might be looking to the idle control circuit but I would also check the operation of the coolant temp sensor because that works like the 'choke' on a fuel injected engine, if the engine temp readings are off everything else will be too and you will see performance problems similar to what you describe.
Thanks for the helpful tips. I will apply them Tuesday. Let me give you a new description of the 302 engine than I did, right now: the engine will no longer “fast idle” when started cold. Instead, when started cold the engine speed will drop to about 550-650rpm and seemingly struggle to run. To counteract this, I must hold the engine speed above 1500rpm for 1-2 minutes before the engine will idle at a reasonable speed, about 750-850rpm, but it is still rough and shaky. part 2 is next.
How would I discover what is causing a back fire on acceleration in a 1989 Ford 5.0 EFI engine? I have already, cleaned carbon from Throttle body, check and have spark at all plugs; cleaned idol air valve; checked for free and functiong EGR valve; replaced fuel filter and Have 41 lbs of fuel pressure, spark timing is dead on.....what could be wrong?
@flywelder You might also check for vacuum leaks as well as check the ignition system for any voltage leaks (I did a video on this). That might be a good place to start. I can't remember if it was that engine or not but you might want to google something about crossing plug wires 7 and 8, I just remember something about a misfire on a Ford V8 being caused by something like that. Lastly check the fuel psi under load as it may have a problem only when the condition occurs.
@flywelder First loose suspension parts don't cause vibrations at speed, out of balance things do but loose suspension parts make things worse. Start by balancing the tires and checking the suspension components.
my 90 accord just crapped out,won`t start till I jump it......then runs till the battery drains and the gauges were bouncing or just quitting rpm and speedo......finally quit running till I jumped it again........battery is from 08/07.......yeah. alternator was replaced but not sure when........so I will check both like you said.
@EricTheCarGuy got the Alt. put on, what a PIA.....anyway batt at 12+ volts,eng. off.....engine on 14+ volts,with all junk on 14volts + - guage fluctuating because of flashers.....another issue was the Tach is still pegged now.......oh and Load circuit in fuse box did not have voltage when checked earlier? (90 Accord)
another thing was test light on with neg off battery to ground......took all fuses out and drain was still there?.......so I took out back up fuse out from under hood and it went out.......????was it clock that was drain? radio was disconnected also.
I tried this test. I get 12.xx volts, but the car is still running rough. When the blinkers are on It will sort of die down a little bit, and then come back on, then die down a little again, etc, etc. But I still get 12.xx volts. Bad battery?
@AutodromoF1 I recommend watching the other video I did for this Alternator Diagnosis 101 as it has more detailed information and other things to check that are not in this video.
hey thanks a lot eric for your response the store decided to charge me for a more expensive alternator that was not even right for my trucks harness it looked similar but internally different they sold a 5 pin regulator and alternator and it needed a 6 its funny they jump to conclusion and go to most expensive part. hooked it up fine and putting out 13.5 at idle so i am happy thanks for the help i really appreciate your interaction with your subscribers it helps a lot thanks
Hey eric, i have a 1980 toyota pickup it wont hold a charge much i replaced the battery not long ago new alternator and voltage regulator today and it just goes dead but the charge light never comes on do you have any help full suggestions
@ian1593 First you have to see if it's charging as I show in this video, if it's not charging check the cables and connections, a problem in any of those areas will also cause a no charge condition.
@EricTheCarGuy i tested it and its reading no output at all but idid find out that the store i bought it from sold me the wrong alternator and the wrong voltage regulator (a difference in the wiring harness) i am waiting for them now i checked all the grounds and leads around and they were clean and tight i am hopping that the difference in parts was my problem. I have heard tho if the charge lamp relay is bad that it wont charge because there is no signal telling the system to turn on.
Hey Eric, I thought the standard regulated voltage of an alternator was between 13.8 and 14.2V. I also thought that a nominal lead acid battery ought to be around 12.5V when unloaded and charged. Surely that test was a fail? What gives!?
@davelowe1977 Actually a static charge of 12.6V is best but with this test there is a pretty wide range depending on the vehicle however if there is a charging failure it will be 12V or less in my experience, this video is more of a 'check' not a diagnosis.
Understood sir! Most cars that I stick a meter on will hover around the 14V mark while running and heavily loaded with electronics. Like you say, I guess it depends on the vehicle (state of the battery, capacity of the alternator, ad infinitum). Less than 12V is a definite fail!
@davelowe1977 I'll actually be coming out with a new video on alternator diagnosis in the near future that addresses some of your concerns. Thanks very much for your input.
hey whats up eric? the same problem im having with my ford taurus 1999 se i have changed battery three times alternater three times all passed test, new alternater belt need help any ideas could it be fuses relays ,wireing i dont kno need help. thanks>>>>>>>>oh yeah starter is used and just put on in feburary
@mrdrejonn Not sure what the problem you having is as all you mentioned were the parts you replaced but you should always check the cables and connections as they are often the cause of electrical problems.
hey whats up eric? the same problem im having with my ford taurus 1999 se i have changed battery three times alternater three times all passed test, new alternater belt need help any ideas could it be fuses relays ,wireing i dont kno need help. thanks>>>>>>>>
Hello Eric, i have a 2006 cobalt LS and it won't start. On the "screen" of my car it says "Check car system SYS" what do i do? or what do i check? please reply, thank you so much!
@TaylorWareFan1 That sounds like it may be an issue with the security system unfortunately the only people equipped to deal with that is the dealer if I'm not mistaken.
@EricTheCarGuy hi, thank you very much for replying! But I found out yesterday late in the evening that it was the battery. It died on me, cause i used the car yesterday morning and in the evening it would not start and i don't think that would have anything to do with the security system. I have never had problems with the security system. I got a new battery today and now it runs like new!
ps. I have set the security alarm on ones and its not funny ;) hahaha
@TaylorWareFan1 Cool, thanks for the update. Normally when a battery starts to get low like that it can cause all kinds of weird issues with the electrical system as once it falls below a certain voltage many of the systems respond in strange ways. Thanks again for the update.
@EricTheCarGuy yeah, the battery wasn't even half full. Could it be from having the radio on in the car? Cause I was listening to music while washing the car.
@TaylorWareFan1 Actually you should be able to run the radio for hours without issue, if it was the original battery it was probably time, they normally only last about 5-6 years.
Hi Eric,I've got problems with Mitsubishi FTO alternator or wiring.Put new alternator belt,new battery but alternator not charging.got myself a multimeter checked that values don't change car on or off value is 11.8 on 12.4 off.connected multimeter to alternator's positive and negative wires with car running and got values off 2.5-4.7 from alternator so i presume its not alternator but can't figure out what is it,fuse relay seems ok,may be wiring?can you help me out?cheers
@xanderzone84 I'm not sure I understand your readings if I'm honest sorry. Connections are often neglected in situations like yours especially the connections at the battery, if there is enough corrosion there your alternator won't be able to charge.
Hey eric I changed my starter last week. Now my alternator went bad i changed that yesterday went and had my battery fully charged. I put the battery back on and it started right up. I let it run for 15 min. and then cut it off to check to see if belt still had the right amount of play. Then i tryied to start it again and the battery is dead. Do you have any ideas? thanx
Hey eric, got a 95 3000gt and have a voltage drop prob. When I rev it up and the rpms come back down everything dims, 14 volts to 12 volts on my gauge. Alternator got tested last year and was good. There is a noise coming from it, but the belt is too tight I think, I will try to loosen it. Also, I checked the connections and it was hot and the plastic was starting to melt around it. Bad connection, Short, ? Checked for draws/fuses. Didnt check volt. regulator. Any ideas on what to do? Thanks
@coldcash12345 It sounds like a voltage regulation problem, I believe that it is built into the alternator and you will need to replace the alternator to fix it.
Hey Eric, I have a question, while driving, my friend's headlight started strobing, and eventually went out, and soon enough the whole car just died and didn;t want to turn over, I'm suspecting a bad alternator or a short some where, currently in the process of replacing the alt. but just wanted a second opinion, any ideas? thanks!
@JDMnubi Test before you buy. Recharge the battery and do the test in this video to confirm the alternator output, if it's below 12V then replace it, if it is then look elsewhere. Don't rule out a connection problem just in case. Good luck.
@rony23ify There probably is a short somewhere by the sound of it unless you have the AC or defrost on, the fans run when the AC is on and when you turn on defrost the AC is turned on. Your best friend will be a good wiring diagram so that you can see how the circuit is suppose to work, that way you can properly test it.
My car is having issues with the lights on the dash, my brights, and many other lights pulsating. I was told its the alternator but my battery is not going dead. When we did the test the needle did bounce around a lot. what are the endless possibilities? could the ground be an issue?
@theOats11 It could be a connection issue but not likely if it was working normally before, it may be that the voltage regulator in the alternator has gone bad or it may have lost a phase, I would replace the alternator personally.
@EricTheCarGuy Ok thanks A LOT! and that has to be one of the fastest respond times i have ever had! I have already ordered the alternator but i was making sure that was the issue before i went and dumped a bunch of money into it! another question... Lucas fuel cleaner, how well does it work? is it worth the treatment?
@theOats11 It won't happen all the time I just happen to be on right now and at the end of my comments normally I won't be able to respond so quick. Good luck.
@ChubbyLoveDumpster It may mean that there is a problem in those circuits or a problem with the electrical system. I'd start by checking the voltage and verifying that my gauge was reading correctly then look into the effected circuits.
@EricTheCarGuy im sure the guage is reading right because when the needle dips so does everything else. lights,idle etc.i just did a test light test to see if anything is draining the battery while the cars off (to see if anything is drawing too much power) and i got nothing draining
Thanks, I sent my sister here to diagnose her problem with my DVOM, saved me a trip to her place first, picked up the alt on the way, (and had them bench test it at the shop) and installed it, you saved me an hour and explained it better than I ever could to my sister, Thank you.
Thanks, I sent my sister here to diagnose her problem with my DVOM, saved me a trip to her place first, picked up the alt on the way, (and had them bench test it at the shop) and installed it, you saved me an hour and explained it better than I ever could to my sister, Thank you.
I don't know who's car that is ur using in that video there, but I bet you the owner was thinking, "Hey! How'd my windshield get all scratched up?" (02:57)
@jakethompson125 Yep, in fact I prefer using a DVOM but I was trying to make it simple by using the same tester I did in the battery test video. Thanks for the comment.
Hi Eric. I appreciate the video. Is it ok to test the voltage by using a voltmeter (ie multimeter) rather than a load tester? I have a voltmeter. -- Ron G
@midlantic1 Ohms law dictates all are connected, including resistance. It's much easier to read voltage in a situation like this as you can use a tester like this or a DVOM, to check amps you need an expensive inductive meter to read it accurately. Great question BTW.
Hey eric i have a 1995 mitsubishi expo and after i did the test on the video and the alternator works great, but after driving for a while the alternator stops working and later it starts working again. I have changed the alternator for a new one and it is still doing the same thing. i hope you can help me out. Thanks
@hondita90 Some parts are better than others but you need to verify that the alternator is really the problem by performing this test. It's also very important that the connections at the battery be clean and tight, poor connections can cause loads of intermittent electrical problems.
hey eric i have a 1995 plymouth neon i put knew in new speakers and before i did that i disconnected the negative battery and then put in back on so i turned the ignition key and it started but really slowly turned over so i drove it like 12km and shut it off and i went to go turn it back on it turned really really slowly barely over and then it didnt do anything i thought it was the battery i bought one and is still does not do anything it doesnt even turn over no more
@meckatod If you installed an amp with some big cables to the battery you may have something hooked up wrong. Try disconnecting what you installed and see if the problem still exists, if it does you know it's in the system, if not then you need to look elsewhere for the problem. Make sure the connections at the battery are clean and tight as well.
hey eric, how would one tell if your alternator was actually running all the time and overcharging? just the readings would be high on the voltage test or?
Hey man, I just got my 93 Cadillac Deville a couple of days ago, and when I try to start it up, it didn't do anything. I thought it was the battery, so I replaced a new battery in it. When I try to crank it up again, it still didn't do anything. So I assuming that something got to do with the Charging system, but is in the shop now.
@Ddog2k3 Sell it, no I mean it. I believe the starter on that engine is actually under the intake manifold so if you just hear a 'click' when turning the key it might be the starter has failed, you would be able to verify this by tapping on the back of the bell housing just under the intake, if the car starts then the starter is most likely bad.
Eric can you post a video of how to remove and install the alternator on your 93 accord I have the same type car and want to know how to do it because im having an issue with the voltage regulator and the alternator.
@sweettlka1988 I'd love to fill your request but keep in mind my videos are based on the cars that come into my shop so in order for me to fill your request a similar Accord has to come in with a similar problem and to be honest I don't put too many alternators in Accords but if I do I'll be sure to make a video for you.
and by the way, I have question/petition to make: I've noticed some cars have oil pressure and volt gauges but It is a bit rare to find any new cars with them. Is it a good idea to install any aftermarket ones? And if so, could you make a vid out of it?... Not necessarily a full tutorial since I know you have a lot going on but at least a basic explanation of how to do it.
@Toltecatl Thanks for your comment. It would be redundant to install an oil pressure gauge, on cars without an oil pressure gauge they use an "idiot light" that would indicate that oil pressure had dropped below a safe point. You could put one in if you wanted but it would be a waste of time unless it was a performance application of some sort in my opinion.
@EricTheCarGuy I see what you mean with the oil gauge. Would it be the same with the volt gauge? Does the battery "Idiot light" go on when the alternator starts to fail?
I ask this to know if this test is a must or if the volt gauge helps to know something's wrong.
And by the way, I ask this for convenience sake and not laziness. I mean, if it has to be done it has to be done and I shall do it easily with the help of your video. Just wondering about different ways to diagnose a problem
I DON'T AGREE. Since the battery can provide about 300 amps at 12V (more than enough for all those accessories), how do you know that the alternator is working ? I think a battery needs at least 13.5V to charge, so I'd say your charging system is not working (at least at the 'worst case scenario').
yapanuwan 7 hours ago
What about voltage drop testing and testing for AC voltage leaking through the diodes?
bubu8947 1 day ago
great advice turning everything on for the test. could even lead to finding something out about solinoids.
nothadnotbad 1 week ago
I never really understood where the word grease monkey originated from until seeing a couple of videos haha :-p I still owe you that beer by the way!!! Thanks for sharing your wisdom! The car stuff is also interesting ;-)
carpediem1956 1 month ago
eric, what im using to know if the alternator is working is by simply using an AC/DC clamp ammeter, in this way i know how much current my alternator is giving.
torque589 1 month ago
@MrZdog76, very informative, do this on a modern car and it will fry out your computer box(ECU),fuel injector, alternator, a/c circuit, car stereo,and all the electrical that is switch on when you remove the battery cable...
torque589 1 month ago
Eric!
I liked this video from the first 3 seconds.
PanzarMetal 1 month ago
yeap, eric makes everyone listen, lol on his remark pay attention and listen. awesome teaching, not boring, excellent......!!!
submarineone 1 month ago
thanks eric, that's a good video! thanks for sharing! outstanding job.....good work!!!
submarineone 1 month ago
Interesting test i'll remember that one foe sure. Thanks!
strongsoldier100 2 months ago
Your good at explaining stuff not like some other videos thanks I don't know anything about cars nd stuff nd I'm Bearly gunna go to wyo tech to studies as a auto mechanic nd I mostly know stuff thanks;)
Edwin19911000 2 months ago
i just changed my alternator on my 91 eagle tsi and i had to boost my battery everything was smooth and when i disconnected my jumper cables it was still running smooth and all of a sudden my headlights went dim so i gave it a rev then my headlights and interior lights got super bright my headlights popped (burnt out) it was like it got too much power than it started sputtering around and died and it wouldnt start again unless i give my car a boost. what do you think can cause that
graveplott47 2 months ago
once once again lol you know what your doing :)
MasterOfAllBass 2 months ago
Eric, my Astro Van battery light come on when I start the engine and idle but disappears when I drive the van even at idle. Serpentine belt is new. What to look for? Videos are very informative. Keep it up.
jsjoe66 2 months ago
@jsjoe66 I would first check the belt tension but I also did a video on "Alternator Diagnosis 101" that might provide some more information for you.
EricTheCarGuy 2 months ago
You da Man Eric!!!!!!!!
Xclibur2001 3 months ago
whats the model # number/ brand of that load tester Eric?
TheZenerDiode 3 months ago
@TheZenerDiode I don't know, I got it at Harbor Freight though.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Eric i just came from the mechanic and he tested the battery on my car. the results were good. my problem is the battery light flashes sometimes while I'm driving. I installed a new alternator about 5 months ago. The car is driving fine, my wife just drove 100 miles without any issues, I'm concerned that the battery light flashes. can you tell me what could cause this? Thanks
timkim2008 2 months ago
@TheZenerDiode looks very similar to one i sell. its made by Schumacher model: BT-100
Bryanx89 1 month ago
I just unhook the battery while the car is running, if the car doesn't die then I know the alternator is working.
MrZdog76 4 months ago 2
@MrZdog76 I don't recommend that mostly because if you touch the positive cable to anything metal you could short out the entire electrical system.
EricTheCarGuy 3 months ago 2
@MrZdog76 Very bad idea. System is not designed to run this way and can result in electronic components burning out. New computer is some 600 dollars. You can blow the rectifiers in a good alternator.
pukaman2000 3 weeks ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Eric your the man and i agree this is 100% on the money.but if you dont have this stuff and you are questioning you (Alt) You could disconnect your battery and if you car dies it means your (alt is dead or a lose wire)
It does not mean ur alt is perfect thow...It could be weak.
Iv heard you can unhook you battery with the car running and Turn on everything(lights radio ac/heater-fans)and if your engine starts missing or idling bad
its a sign of a
TheGuitarslinger 4 months ago
Comment removed
TheGuitarslinger 4 months ago
Changed the voltage regulator to an electronic transistorized one because of a lot of debris on the points, and one reman Champion 61 Amp alternator later, it's making 14.7V at idle, charging light flickering gone. Too bad I couldn't get an original new Delco-Remy mechanical regulator, those are beautifully built. Autopsy on old alternator showed a massive short inside one of the coils, ?dropped one phase? Now completely fixed - fun times!
sbakar 4 months ago
@sbakar Yea when you mentioned full fielding didn't make any difference I was thinking the voltage regulator was OK, if it was bad you would have seen an increase in voltage during the full field, based on your description it does sound like it might have lost a phase or some other issue with the alternator itself. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy The points in the regulator had a lot of debris and pitting - looked pretty bad, so even if it wasn't the cause, making it solid-state was probably not a waste of money. Funny how transistors were just starting to become mainstream way back then :)
sbakar 4 months ago
@sbakar Agreed, upgrading will save you a repair in the future for sure.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Diagnosed a charging light flickering on at idle in a 1965 Buick Wildcat today. There was only 13.2V at 2000 rpm from the alternator, dropping to 12.3V at idle. Belt was tight, no pulley wobble. Full field test did nothing to raise the voltage. Voltage regulator was the original Delco-Remy mechanical points-type regulator - made in CANADA. Also noticed that the alternator was getting extremely hot even after 2 minutes of running from cold - it was a Remy reman of unknown origin, 2 months old.
sbakar 4 months ago
LOL! Your videos are just like mine. Not a whole lot of editing, just wing it out there and let it ride! lol!
Question for ya'. I keep going through alternators on my 383 stroker motor. It seems that if I tighten the alternator belt up to where I think it should be, the alternator goes out after a few days of very spirited driving with high RPM's. Any thoughts? This only happens when I take the slop out of the belt.
Junkman2000 4 months ago
@Junkman2000 If you get the tension too tight you can ruin the bearing however that seems like a short amount of time for a bearing to go out. Are they going out because of an electrical failure or a mechanical one?
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy The failure is definitely due to the high RPM's when I'm doing some really spirited driving. I think I need to put a larger pulley on the alternator. I checked my new alternator yesterday and it was showing a charging value of 15+ volts. That kinda caught me off guard. I didn't know they put out that kinda voltage for a '79 El Camino. It's working great right now but if I keep slamming the throttle, it won't last long. It's an AC Delco with a lifetime warranty.
Junkman2000 4 months ago
@Junkman2000 The voltage can be as high as 15V and still be good. You may have a mechanical issue if it's 'rpm's' that are causing that problem.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
Have a suspect Alternator...Thanks for the Tips Eric...Much appreciated..out to do the test now...wish me luck...Lol
Goldeneagle4712 5 months ago
@Goldeneagle4712 Good luck and thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 4 months ago
This is off topic but I've noticed this in a few of your videos... The US flag you have is mounted backwards. The stars go on the upper left. Not trying to be a jerk, just saying. (And I am a far, far cry from a flag Nazi.)
pandurate 5 months ago
@pandurate That's been pointed out and in later videos I've replace it and hung it properly. In the new shop it hangs properly in the background. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
This is the 3rd alternator in 6 months that i have bought. What keeps damaging my alternators? I have a small amp and a sub, no more than that. The other day something really weird happen, I started my car and the voltage meter stay a bit above 12 start driving and stayed there after 5 min of driving went up as normal to about 14. Today just stayed at 12
unidad355 5 months ago
@unidad355 It may be how you have your system hooked up or there may be some other issue in the electrical system. You may want to watch the other video that I did on this, Alternator Diagnosis 101.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
man i have being serching for you for a while now where you being the whole time any way good thing hat i found you.
myone2008 6 months ago
@myone2008 I'm glad you did too, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
When you test the alternator. Does it make any difference whether the battery is in good condition or not?
I did that same test with everything turned on. I get 11.8-11.9V when radiator fan is running but it gets above 12V when it's turned off. Is my alternator bad?
thaik56 6 months ago
@thaik56 You might want to also watch the video I did on Alternator Diagnosis 101 for more detailed information but yes, you do need to make sure you have a good battery before doing any testing on the rest of the electrical system.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
You're right.
I did replace the battery, and now I've passed the test. I'm right above 12V (12.2V)
under full load. Yay.
thaik56 5 months ago
@thaik56 I'm thinking you should have a bit more than that, is that at idle or after you raise the RPM's to 2K?
EricTheCarGuy 5 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Well, it's at idle, right after a test drive, so the engine was pretty much warm already. It's not high enough?
thaik56 5 months ago
My alternator makes a low pitched whistling noise at idle. Bearings?
TheAstro30 6 months ago
@TheAstro30 Possibly, check the belt tension.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Hey Eric, I hear a squealing noise from somewhere around the alternator. I checked the voltage from battery using a multimeter it was fine measuring about 12 V and 14.27 V with the engine turned on. When I unplug the alternator, the noise goes away, when I turn the AC on, the noise goes away but without AC running, I hear that continuous noise. The more I drive, the worse it gets. I am sure my alternator is good, so it has to be something else
cooolguy1986 6 months ago
@cooolguy1986 I would check the belt tension, I would also check the condition of the belt itself, if it's glazed or shows signs of age you might consider replacing it.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
My truck was having trouble turning on so i replaced the battery and now it turns on good but it reads at 11.1 volts and now my check engine light can this be caused by the alternator and some times by truck turns off when im braking and making a turn.
points2shopPROOF 6 months ago
@points2shopPROOF You may want to watch the other video I did on this Alternator Diagnosis 101 for some more testing but if your having charging system issues (and by the sound of it you are) it's a good idea to check the alternator output, if you have the 11.1V that you say you have this is far below what the alternator should be putting out. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
your welcome - EricTheCarGuy. I'm also in the automotive industry. We install tracking devices to Mercs and others.
cheers!
2025axlrose 6 months ago
@2025axlrose Very cool, thanks for your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
nice video, cheers!
2025axlrose 6 months ago
@2025axlrose Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
Can use a digital voltmeter too at the battery and never at the alternator.You get unaccurate results at the alternator.Have seen why the alternator on a Chevy did not work right once and was a simple fix.Owner's son forgot to plug in the plug in for the alternator,was not charging.
wafrederick 6 months ago
@wafrederick Yea leaving things unplugged will get you every time. Thanks for the comment and for your input.
EricTheCarGuy 6 months ago
i knew that was my alternator because about 3 weeks ago when i was driving there was raining and i had everything that you said in the video "radio,windshields, rear defogger, headlights,fog lights" and i feel like my car die right there
GIOOTO 7 months ago
@GIOOTO Be sure to check it out because it could be the wiring or a connection problem.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
Hands down Eric, You explain things in the most thorough way. Thank You.
xXteknomaticXx 7 months ago
@xXteknomaticXx I'm happy to help. Thank you very much for your comment it made my day.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
Eric i could not post the entire engine problem description at one time Can i send it to you in an email? thanks
flywelder 7 months ago
@flywelder There is a 'contact' link on my website if you need but keep in mind I get a LOT of email so it may be some time before I get to your question.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
part 2 If I attempt to hold the engine speed at anything below 1500rpm it will not stay at the RPM I hold the throttle to, rather, it will drop back down low, then come back up again, and continue to do so despite me holding the throttle. When cold, and starting out down the road, {engine dog house cover is off so I can observe} the engine feels held back when trying to accelerate and bucks, misfires, back fires through the intake if accelerating and if more load is applied.
flywelder 7 months ago
@flywelder I'm guessing it's a fuel injected engine, if this is the case I might be looking to the idle control circuit but I would also check the operation of the coolant temp sensor because that works like the 'choke' on a fuel injected engine, if the engine temp readings are off everything else will be too and you will see performance problems similar to what you describe.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
Thanks for the helpful tips. I will apply them Tuesday. Let me give you a new description of the 302 engine than I did, right now: the engine will no longer “fast idle” when started cold. Instead, when started cold the engine speed will drop to about 550-650rpm and seemingly struggle to run. To counteract this, I must hold the engine speed above 1500rpm for 1-2 minutes before the engine will idle at a reasonable speed, about 750-850rpm, but it is still rough and shaky. part 2 is next.
flywelder 7 months ago
How would I discover what is causing a back fire on acceleration in a 1989 Ford 5.0 EFI engine? I have already, cleaned carbon from Throttle body, check and have spark at all plugs; cleaned idol air valve; checked for free and functiong EGR valve; replaced fuel filter and Have 41 lbs of fuel pressure, spark timing is dead on.....what could be wrong?
flywelder 7 months ago
@flywelder You might also check for vacuum leaks as well as check the ignition system for any voltage leaks (I did a video on this). That might be a good place to start. I can't remember if it was that engine or not but you might want to google something about crossing plug wires 7 and 8, I just remember something about a misfire on a Ford V8 being caused by something like that. Lastly check the fuel psi under load as it may have a problem only when the condition occurs.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
great videos! very helpful! tell me , how to distinguise between a out of balanced wheel and a bad ball joint?
flywelder 7 months ago
@flywelder First loose suspension parts don't cause vibrations at speed, out of balance things do but loose suspension parts make things worse. Start by balancing the tires and checking the suspension components.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
my 90 accord just crapped out,won`t start till I jump it......then runs till the battery drains and the gauges were bouncing or just quitting rpm and speedo......finally quit running till I jumped it again........battery is from 08/07.......yeah. alternator was replaced but not sure when........so I will check both like you said.
jeepers2655 7 months ago
@jeepers2655 You might also want to watch the Alternator Diagnosis 101 video that I did for further tests you can do. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy got the Alt. put on, what a PIA.....anyway batt at 12+ volts,eng. off.....engine on 14+ volts,with all junk on 14volts + - guage fluctuating because of flashers.....another issue was the Tach is still pegged now.......oh and Load circuit in fuse box did not have voltage when checked earlier? (90 Accord)
jeepers2655 7 months ago
another thing was test light on with neg off battery to ground......took all fuses out and drain was still there?.......so I took out back up fuse out from under hood and it went out.......????was it clock that was drain? radio was disconnected also.
jeepers2655 7 months ago
thanx eric you're briliant
BullGuy87 7 months ago
@BullGuy87 Thank YOU.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
I tried this test. I get 12.xx volts, but the car is still running rough. When the blinkers are on It will sort of die down a little bit, and then come back on, then die down a little again, etc, etc. But I still get 12.xx volts. Bad battery?
AutodromoF1 7 months ago
@AutodromoF1 I recommend watching the other video I did for this Alternator Diagnosis 101 as it has more detailed information and other things to check that are not in this video.
EricTheCarGuy 7 months ago
I KNOW UR A CAR GUY ERIC...COOL BUT I HAVE A QUESTION 2 ASK MA-B U CAN HELP CHECK MY VIDEO...PLEASE THANKZ
thatcutndude1 8 months ago
@thatcutndude1 I would appreciate it if you would send it to me and I'll take a look when I have the time.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy OK THANKZ
thatcutndude1 8 months ago
why are you inside the car with those dirty ass gloves on
btinyt1521 8 months ago
@btinyt1521 Why are you so judgmental?
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago 2
hey thanks a lot eric for your response the store decided to charge me for a more expensive alternator that was not even right for my trucks harness it looked similar but internally different they sold a 5 pin regulator and alternator and it needed a 6 its funny they jump to conclusion and go to most expensive part. hooked it up fine and putting out 13.5 at idle so i am happy thanks for the help i really appreciate your interaction with your subscribers it helps a lot thanks
ian1593 8 months ago
@ian1593 I'm happy to help, thanks for the update and for your comments.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
Hey eric, i have a 1980 toyota pickup it wont hold a charge much i replaced the battery not long ago new alternator and voltage regulator today and it just goes dead but the charge light never comes on do you have any help full suggestions
ian1593 8 months ago
@ian1593 First you have to see if it's charging as I show in this video, if it's not charging check the cables and connections, a problem in any of those areas will also cause a no charge condition.
EricTheCarGuy 8 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy i tested it and its reading no output at all but idid find out that the store i bought it from sold me the wrong alternator and the wrong voltage regulator (a difference in the wiring harness) i am waiting for them now i checked all the grounds and leads around and they were clean and tight i am hopping that the difference in parts was my problem. I have heard tho if the charge lamp relay is bad that it wont charge because there is no signal telling the system to turn on.
ian1593 8 months ago
Hey Eric, I thought the standard regulated voltage of an alternator was between 13.8 and 14.2V. I also thought that a nominal lead acid battery ought to be around 12.5V when unloaded and charged. Surely that test was a fail? What gives!?
davelowe1977 9 months ago
@davelowe1977 Actually a static charge of 12.6V is best but with this test there is a pretty wide range depending on the vehicle however if there is a charging failure it will be 12V or less in my experience, this video is more of a 'check' not a diagnosis.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy
Understood sir! Most cars that I stick a meter on will hover around the 14V mark while running and heavily loaded with electronics. Like you say, I guess it depends on the vehicle (state of the battery, capacity of the alternator, ad infinitum). Less than 12V is a definite fail!
davelowe1977 9 months ago
@davelowe1977 I'll actually be coming out with a new video on alternator diagnosis in the near future that addresses some of your concerns. Thanks very much for your input.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
can I use any old tester?
Intelpentium54321 9 months ago
@Intelpentium54321 Yea, a DVOM will work just fine.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
hey whats up eric? the same problem im having with my ford taurus 1999 se i have changed battery three times alternater three times all passed test, new alternater belt need help any ideas could it be fuses relays ,wireing i dont kno need help. thanks>>>>>>>>oh yeah starter is used and just put on in feburary
mrdrejonn 9 months ago
@mrdrejonn Not sure what the problem you having is as all you mentioned were the parts you replaced but you should always check the cables and connections as they are often the cause of electrical problems.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
hey whats up eric? the same problem im having with my ford taurus 1999 se i have changed battery three times alternater three times all passed test, new alternater belt need help any ideas could it be fuses relays ,wireing i dont kno need help. thanks>>>>>>>>
mrdrejonn 9 months ago
Hello Eric, i have a 2006 cobalt LS and it won't start. On the "screen" of my car it says "Check car system SYS" what do i do? or what do i check? please reply, thank you so much!
TaylorWareFan1 9 months ago
@TaylorWareFan1 That sounds like it may be an issue with the security system unfortunately the only people equipped to deal with that is the dealer if I'm not mistaken.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy hi, thank you very much for replying! But I found out yesterday late in the evening that it was the battery. It died on me, cause i used the car yesterday morning and in the evening it would not start and i don't think that would have anything to do with the security system. I have never had problems with the security system. I got a new battery today and now it runs like new!
ps. I have set the security alarm on ones and its not funny ;) hahaha
TaylorWareFan1 9 months ago
@TaylorWareFan1 Cool, thanks for the update. Normally when a battery starts to get low like that it can cause all kinds of weird issues with the electrical system as once it falls below a certain voltage many of the systems respond in strange ways. Thanks again for the update.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy yeah, the battery wasn't even half full. Could it be from having the radio on in the car? Cause I was listening to music while washing the car.
TaylorWareFan1 9 months ago
@TaylorWareFan1 Actually you should be able to run the radio for hours without issue, if it was the original battery it was probably time, they normally only last about 5-6 years.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Hi Eric,I've got problems with Mitsubishi FTO alternator or wiring.Put new alternator belt,new battery but alternator not charging.got myself a multimeter checked that values don't change car on or off value is 11.8 on 12.4 off.connected multimeter to alternator's positive and negative wires with car running and got values off 2.5-4.7 from alternator so i presume its not alternator but can't figure out what is it,fuse relay seems ok,may be wiring?can you help me out?cheers
xanderzone84 9 months ago
@xanderzone84 I'm not sure I understand your readings if I'm honest sorry. Connections are often neglected in situations like yours especially the connections at the battery, if there is enough corrosion there your alternator won't be able to charge.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Is there any chance i can check alternator itself if its charging with multimeter?thanks
xanderzone84 9 months ago
@xanderzone84 Sure but it should be the same at the battery, if not it's probably something in the wiring.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Hey eric I changed my starter last week. Now my alternator went bad i changed that yesterday went and had my battery fully charged. I put the battery back on and it started right up. I let it run for 15 min. and then cut it off to check to see if belt still had the right amount of play. Then i tryied to start it again and the battery is dead. Do you have any ideas? thanx
kennyg757 10 months ago
@kennyg757 Make sure the connections to the battery are clean and tight, may charging and battery problems are actually caused by bad connections.
EricTheCarGuy 9 months ago
Hey eric, got a 95 3000gt and have a voltage drop prob. When I rev it up and the rpms come back down everything dims, 14 volts to 12 volts on my gauge. Alternator got tested last year and was good. There is a noise coming from it, but the belt is too tight I think, I will try to loosen it. Also, I checked the connections and it was hot and the plastic was starting to melt around it. Bad connection, Short, ? Checked for draws/fuses. Didnt check volt. regulator. Any ideas on what to do? Thanks
coldcash12345 11 months ago
@coldcash12345 It sounds like a voltage regulation problem, I believe that it is built into the alternator and you will need to replace the alternator to fix it.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Eric Can I preform these tests in your video here to see if it is bad or will this test not account for a voltage regulation problem?
coldcash12345 11 months ago
@coldcash12345 This test will defiantly account for a voltage regulator problem but if you find one you will still have to replace the alternator.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
Hey Eric, I have a question, while driving, my friend's headlight started strobing, and eventually went out, and soon enough the whole car just died and didn;t want to turn over, I'm suspecting a bad alternator or a short some where, currently in the process of replacing the alt. but just wanted a second opinion, any ideas? thanks!
JDMnubi 11 months ago
@JDMnubi Test before you buy. Recharge the battery and do the test in this video to confirm the alternator output, if it's below 12V then replace it, if it is then look elsewhere. Don't rule out a connection problem just in case. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
Comment removed
rony23ify 11 months ago
@rony23ify There probably is a short somewhere by the sound of it unless you have the AC or defrost on, the fans run when the AC is on and when you turn on defrost the AC is turned on. Your best friend will be a good wiring diagram so that you can see how the circuit is suppose to work, that way you can properly test it.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
cool
hp11208 11 months ago
My car is having issues with the lights on the dash, my brights, and many other lights pulsating. I was told its the alternator but my battery is not going dead. When we did the test the needle did bounce around a lot. what are the endless possibilities? could the ground be an issue?
theOats11 11 months ago
@theOats11 It could be a connection issue but not likely if it was working normally before, it may be that the voltage regulator in the alternator has gone bad or it may have lost a phase, I would replace the alternator personally.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy Ok thanks A LOT! and that has to be one of the fastest respond times i have ever had! I have already ordered the alternator but i was making sure that was the issue before i went and dumped a bunch of money into it! another question... Lucas fuel cleaner, how well does it work? is it worth the treatment?
theOats11 11 months ago
@theOats11 It won't happen all the time I just happen to be on right now and at the end of my comments normally I won't be able to respond so quick. Good luck.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
what does it mean when your voltage gauge with light and heater on reads 13 then dips to 8 then jumps tp 13 an back to 8 etc.etc.
ChubbyLoveDumpster 11 months ago
@ChubbyLoveDumpster It may mean that there is a problem in those circuits or a problem with the electrical system. I'd start by checking the voltage and verifying that my gauge was reading correctly then look into the effected circuits.
EricTheCarGuy 11 months ago
@EricTheCarGuy im sure the guage is reading right because when the needle dips so does everything else. lights,idle etc.i just did a test light test to see if anything is draining the battery while the cars off (to see if anything is drawing too much power) and i got nothing draining
ChubbyLoveDumpster 11 months ago
This has been flagged as spam show
Thanks, I sent my sister here to diagnose her problem with my DVOM, saved me a trip to her place first, picked up the alt on the way, (and had them bench test it at the shop) and installed it, you saved me an hour and explained it better than I ever could to my sister, Thank you.
Freelancelance 1 year ago
Thanks, I sent my sister here to diagnose her problem with my DVOM, saved me a trip to her place first, picked up the alt on the way, (and had them bench test it at the shop) and installed it, you saved me an hour and explained it better than I ever could to my sister, Thank you.
Freelancelance 1 year ago
@Freelancelance Awesome, I love comments like this. I'm happy to help, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
I don't know who's car that is ur using in that video there, but I bet you the owner was thinking, "Hey! How'd my windshield get all scratched up?" (02:57)
charlieparker1234 1 year ago
you rock...thanks
frankie2234 1 year ago
@frankie2234 Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
you can check the alternate with a volt miter
jakethompson125 1 year ago
@jakethompson125 Yep, in fact I prefer using a DVOM but I was trying to make it simple by using the same tester I did in the battery test video. Thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
This has been flagged as spam show
great video eric easy and to the point .... nice change from some i have seen here
mugshotmugshot 1 year ago
great video eric easy and to the point .... nice change fromsome i have seen here
mugshotmugshot 1 year ago
@mugshotmugshot Glad you liked it, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hi Eric. I appreciate the video. Is it ok to test the voltage by using a voltmeter (ie multimeter) rather than a load tester? I have a voltmeter. -- Ron G
ronglaum 1 year ago
@ronglaum Yes it is, in fact it's a lot more accurate than the tool I show here. You just can't do a load test on the battery with a DVOM.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
eric: "i'm here to help you!" :') thank you, eric! :D
mobilove 1 year ago
@mobilove Thank you!
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy Eric, isn't the real concern how much Amperage the alt is charging back to the battery? More so than voltage.
midlantic1 1 year ago
@midlantic1 Ohms law dictates all are connected, including resistance. It's much easier to read voltage in a situation like this as you can use a tester like this or a DVOM, to check amps you need an expensive inductive meter to read it accurately. Great question BTW.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hey eric i have a 1995 mitsubishi expo and after i did the test on the video and the alternator works great, but after driving for a while the alternator stops working and later it starts working again. I have changed the alternator for a new one and it is still doing the same thing. i hope you can help me out. Thanks
hondita90 1 year ago
@hondita90 Some parts are better than others but you need to verify that the alternator is really the problem by performing this test. It's also very important that the connections at the battery be clean and tight, poor connections can cause loads of intermittent electrical problems.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric i have a 1995 plymouth neon i put knew in new speakers and before i did that i disconnected the negative battery and then put in back on so i turned the ignition key and it started but really slowly turned over so i drove it like 12km and shut it off and i went to go turn it back on it turned really really slowly barely over and then it didnt do anything i thought it was the battery i bought one and is still does not do anything it doesnt even turn over no more
meckatod 1 year ago
@meckatod If you installed an amp with some big cables to the battery you may have something hooked up wrong. Try disconnecting what you installed and see if the problem still exists, if it does you know it's in the system, if not then you need to look elsewhere for the problem. Make sure the connections at the battery are clean and tight as well.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric, how would one tell if your alternator was actually running all the time and overcharging? just the readings would be high on the voltage test or?
Diesel1Dee 1 year ago
@Diesel1Dee If the reading is above 14V it's too high. It's not common for a problem like that to be intermittent but not impossible.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Hey man, I just got my 93 Cadillac Deville a couple of days ago, and when I try to start it up, it didn't do anything. I thought it was the battery, so I replaced a new battery in it. When I try to crank it up again, it still didn't do anything. So I assuming that something got to do with the Charging system, but is in the shop now.
Ddog2k3 1 year ago
@Ddog2k3 Sell it, no I mean it. I believe the starter on that engine is actually under the intake manifold so if you just hear a 'click' when turning the key it might be the starter has failed, you would be able to verify this by tapping on the back of the bell housing just under the intake, if the car starts then the starter is most likely bad.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy O ok thanks man.
Ddog2k3 1 year ago
hey eric can I use a multimeter fluke 77-4 to check the charging system like you did in the video thanks for your respond and advice
c72zero 1 year ago
@c72zero In fact that is a way better tool than the one I used in this video so the answer would be a resounding yes.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Comment removed
368Tbone 1 year ago
Eric can you post a video of how to remove and install the alternator on your 93 accord I have the same type car and want to know how to do it because im having an issue with the voltage regulator and the alternator.
THANKS
sweettlka1988 1 year ago
@sweettlka1988 I'd love to fill your request but keep in mind my videos are based on the cars that come into my shop so in order for me to fill your request a similar Accord has to come in with a similar problem and to be honest I don't put too many alternators in Accords but if I do I'll be sure to make a video for you.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
Got a charge out of your battery of current facts, thanks!
Moosepiesandwich 1 year ago
@Moosepiesandwich Your funny, I like you already.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
You're awsome man, thanks.
LookieLoudLou 1 year ago
@LookieLoudLou Your welcome, thanks for the comment.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
hey eric, what about the starter? lol
jambe1234567 1 year ago
@jambe1234567 That would be a different video to be posted at some point in the future.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy okay, sounds good
thanks
jambe1234567 1 year ago
Great vid as usual Eric, THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
and by the way, I have question/petition to make: I've noticed some cars have oil pressure and volt gauges but It is a bit rare to find any new cars with them. Is it a good idea to install any aftermarket ones? And if so, could you make a vid out of it?... Not necessarily a full tutorial since I know you have a lot going on but at least a basic explanation of how to do it.
MANY THANKS AND PLEASE KEEP IT UP
Toltecatl 1 year ago
@Toltecatl Thanks for your comment. It would be redundant to install an oil pressure gauge, on cars without an oil pressure gauge they use an "idiot light" that would indicate that oil pressure had dropped below a safe point. You could put one in if you wanted but it would be a waste of time unless it was a performance application of some sort in my opinion.
EricTheCarGuy 1 year ago
@EricTheCarGuy I see what you mean with the oil gauge. Would it be the same with the volt gauge? Does the battery "Idiot light" go on when the alternator starts to fail?
I ask this to know if this test is a must or if the volt gauge helps to know something's wrong.
And by the way, I ask this for convenience sake and not laziness. I mean, if it has to be done it has to be done and I shall do it easily with the help of your video. Just wondering about different ways to diagnose a problem
Toltecatl 1 year ago