Hi. My quess is that the rpm is not high enough to get the effect you want, also the motor seems too small. For this setup, judging by the size of the cav.pump, I'd suggest a 5.5kW motor or bigger. Don't worry it will work, it will be cheap to use for your home.
To achieve anything like a usable amount of heat you will need a large motor, 30HP or so. Even if you do this, it will be more inefficient than had you run the same amount of power through a resistive heater.
Hi I know you have heard a lot of diffrent things you did not want to hear. That said I believe you have to test other designs of rotors some with thirty holes and perhaps more. the sise of unit you have there you would probably need to use smaller holes. like I said you would have to test diffrent designs of rotors.
Boiling water does not = hot water... i do not see how this makes it any different. If there was a way to use the boiling water as an energy source to create power then to heat water in this, then it might work. But there is a reason this isnt used anywhere.... Its another scam.
The motor should not get hot after a few seconds ~ maybe the wiring connection to the motor, perhaps the windings are crossed over. (sometimes in electric motors you might have to remove brass connecting tags joining some of the terminals whether in star or delta fomation). Test the motor without any load, measure the amps compared to the rating of the motor. Of course make sure it is the correct voltage, whether 3 phase 220v or 415 v.
Google Ben & Jerry's Acoustic refrigeration. Then what you do is use the ultrasonic wave power the cavitation in a refrigerant such as Helium or Hydrogen. Your cell stack is going to have to be very dense to match the resonance of the Ultrasound to max efficiency. Use capillary tubes to transfer heat to your water bath.
The cavitation of water directly is a loval thermal even and diffusion & convection bring to equilibrium to quickly for direct action.
Finally I would like to try this project. I have seen it years ago but have not had the time. Time is rare for those of us who want to seek truth. I think there may be a use for this for my workshop and/or house. It may not yeild what I want but then again geothermal heat pumps work. I have got one running in my mothers farmhouse and it is wonderful (15+ yrs). So I ask anyone with any plans or concrete knowledge of this idea to post it or email me! lets do it for a better world. Peace2all
Then again I may be doing something wrong when I try these things, you never know. I have built a hybrid car (you can even see how I did it by searching 21ponies hybrid car and something should come up) That project was a great success in which I acheive 55 mpg. Yes you can heat your shop with free energy from the Sun. (free for us now until we start getting taxed on it) We don't need to use one ounce of oil for energy or heat if we harnessed the sun's power... read on next post.
Next I want to tell you a bit about me. I have experimented since I left the military in 1992 on cheaper, better use of our energy. I have tried many ideas I read in books and eventually on line. I have tried the acetone in gas/diesel and that I could not get to work (when I can't get it to work as described I move on) I consider myself the "mythbuster" of energy claims. I have built a wind generator, solor collectors and passive heating... read on next post.
Ok first of all, I don't intend to say there is no such thing as over unity so I won't; however whenever you try something like this you should use what we have used in the past to start your experiment. Here is what I mean. If you want to make this thing work and you think it will give you, lets say 25,000 btu's for heating a home, then you should start with about 10HP motor. Then reduce the motor size or input to something less until you find the right size needed... read on next post.
What's the matter ? TRUTH HURTS .... EH ? Sounds to like I struck a raw nerve. It must be really stinging for you send me a reply like that. To someone who's trying to show you a little empathy. You put that thing together 3 years ago ?.Still trying to get something for nothing ? Who's the fool ?
I don't know what to say other than " if it looks like a duck and sounds like a duck , maybe it's a duck. A lot of work for nothing. I think the first hint was they claimed that it put out more power than it consumed.
@Bubblytubebob Cavitation principle is real, it is used in industrial process all the time, if it isnt heating the water or turning it to steam there is a flaw in the design, they sell commercial pumps that heat water this way OU or not they are real.
here's the reason why the motor got hot and the water didn't . the rotation speed is relative to the resonate frequency of the water molecule , so you either have to increase the speed of the motor or change the depth and size and angle of the holes , everything as to match to create the atomic molecular pressure needed to cause the molecule to heat up , if the angles and the spacing and the depth and shape of the bottom of the holes were shaped perfected the speed could be greatly reduced
cavitation can be achieved with bladed rotors too only the blade's shape is hard to determin and it would take a lot of money and experiments to do it...when the fluid reaches the blade closer to the rotor speed fluid increases therefor pressure decreases creating negetive pressures that could boil the water at 15 degrees celsius but the the blade should have such a profile that the speed doesn't decrease as it does in conventional pumps :)
For what its worth, I considered the so called Keely disassociation frequency of water, the resonant poit at which water can explode. I calculated the size a closed cylinder would need to be to resonate at 42,800 Hz, and it would need to be 9 mm length or in the case of a hole 9mm deep for water at 50 degrees C. thats about the dimension of the holes. Could that be part of the secret? - the water is resonating? Also I think your motor needs to go about 4 times faster.
@farhada46 - I'll excuse your mistake this time... but check the words... Hydro - means water - Sonic means sound... It uses standing waves/low pressure regions to boil the water... the motor does not have to spin faster than the speed of sound...
Maybe its because trying to heat water through the friction created in the water its self (there is no resistance between the casing and rotor at all) has to be the most inefficient way of trying to heat water. This whole over-unity aspect of this hoax is laughable.
I think you may have to feed the output back into the input and create a closed loop witout any expander on it to actually get this thing to heat the water.
Hi nice job. this may help The drum must be insulated from the casing the shaft should be zinc plated this will cause a type of fusion as the atoms are being smashed this electric component will cause massive heat generation a 2min run should produce 160 deg @1500 rpm. try with an inch of oil and plug the out put maybe this will help. if your in the uk call me kim on 01189477268 this is the first time I have posted so hope its alright to put my number in the post
@bioradionics, you can click on the username and send a private message for numbers, if dickheads prank you just ask the guy to delete your message from his page
are you turning the whole rotor on the inside? it seems to me like turning an interior rotor with fins would make the job easier on the motor... could be wrong...
The hole guy is probably right, the water needs to be pummelled, so I should imagine holes need to be assorted angles to disrupt any uniformity, and rotor maybe needs to be a close fit in housing. I intent to make a small testing version to experiment on whether it really works, of which I think it should. As for efficiency, I am not so sure.
I heard the holes need to be at different depths and angles to turbulate the water, being the same depth and angle does not give you any way for the water to be disrupted inside the rotor to produce heat.
The other vid I saw shoed holes that looked to be at least 1" dia, if not maybe 2".
The smaller holes and (not having seen the holes, IDK) the shape of the holes would be the issue. Are the holes flat on the bottom, or are they rounded? A divit, similar to the bump on a golf ball, at the bottom of the hole is what I'll be shooting for when I give it a go.
Good luck and do not stop trying! The co. that makes these doesn't sell them to individuals, only companies as a flameless heat source.
Though I have not looked as of this moment, I would assume Google. Google will provide the answer to every question you ask it.... classified or unclassified.
You just have to ask it the right questions!
Also try freepatentsonline(dot)com for the original patent.
BTW.. if you have any luck, do not keep me in the dark! this is my next project.
Could be the bearings not being able to hold up while the device is in operation. It may be able to move freely when there is no power applied. But, due to the nature of the device, that it specifically induces shock waves, it may have a different coefficient of friction while in operation.
As for the solution, nasa came up with something. Search hydrodynamics.
I'm wondering if a fluid type bearing is suited for this task.
Hard to troubleshoot with this video. Please send a video of the apparatus being used... sounds to me like the cylinder isnt moving freely or at all. This would cause the motor to overheat and the other to feel cool.
I don't see that the unit is pressurized- cavitation requires pressure- its the pressure that holds the air bubbles in the drum holes coupled with centifugal force, that agitate and hence become steam-
hey guy's what ever happened to the hydrostatic pump , did you ever get it working? please email me so i can look at the plans and give my current input ,, my nick name is toe. i design and build and restore porsches,, i have my own shop so i hve the resources to play.
You have stalled your induction motor during a start. You should get a small AC inverter drive with sensorless vector control. This will run your motor at the optimum slip during the intitial overcomming of the inertia. The motoro is currently drawing hige current fro not torque.
you are right there on the spot! Initial wasted currency. Can either be fixed with rewiring to two step starting mode, but better get frequency modulator start up device, or inverter drive...
The motor is either not wired correctly or the voltages are wrong... check it out. A motor with no load will run cool if the voltage and wiring are correct.
an electric motor will run with no load for years and never get hot. The question I have, is the motor wired incorrectly? It may be a multi tap motor and tapped at the wrong voltage.
i exoect the reason for the motor to be so hot is that it has very little loading on the stator. the motor will need some resistance to perform more efficantly or as it has been designed to. i expect you'll need more pressure in your water chamber and recommend you remove plastic hose pipe and replace with steel
Adjust the space between the drum's circumference and the housing to 1/8 inch; and the the axial end spacing (both ends) with housing to 1/4 inch each.
Use adjustable RPM to tune into sympathetic vibration, resonant frequency.
love this ,just a comment dont want to impose just wondering, could it be air lock causing big load water does have air in it and has to be bled out when i worked on high output boilers we bled lines and installed bleeders because air would lock up our pumps and not allow water to go into the places it needed to go. just a comment good luck dont give up best wishs
From what i've found air seems to have very little effect if any, but the device seems to be pretty efficient at hammering the disolved air out of fresh water.
can someone not make a small model that works and shows the workings,i thought the housing could be cup shaped and sat in a bucket of water the spinny bit could be put in a drill like a drill bit and lowered into the bucket of water and then into the cup shaped housing that is made secure in the bucket start the drill (that is plugged into a circuit breaker due to havin water and drill so close )and spin it up ?!
If you've verified motor wiring to be correct, then uncouple the motor and run it and see if it gets hot. If it does not then the motor may be too small to spin the rotor. The rotor would have very little resistance to spin by hand but when you get it spinning at 3,000 rpm then it will have resistance. Your motor may not be spnning fast enough to start cavitation, smaller rotors need to spin faster. You also did not mention whether or not you drilled the holes in at an angle.
when looking at the picture, i can see a pedestal sink in the background...it appears to have TWO handles. If my memory serves me right ..then try the one on the lelf and see if it gets hot. Failing that crack open the left one and then discard the motor and casing in the foreground...problem solved
What in the incoming voltage 120 / 220 single phase - 3 phase. Also, if it is the correct motor for the incoming line, have you also checked wiring plaquard to verify it is pinned correctly. Depending on the motor, the wiring can be arranged for 120 / 220, and also directional polarity reversal. Good Luck
Hopefully you've solved the problems. I've just skimmed some of the comments, as in most only about 10% infromation, balance hype & rubbish. Anyway... Just curious if you didn't resolve; have you verified infromation on motor plate plaquard? Just guessing without amy real information. But Looks like motor I've used before in 3ph applications. Is it a 3ph motor? Cont'd next comment.
please would you mind giving more information,, i am so interested i wanto aplied this tecnology to green house vegetable production.. to heat or warm during the winter season...
A few of us are interested in seeing if this beautifully crafted pump actually works. You have established that there may me a motor problem. Have you thought of fitting the pump to your friends lathe, using the lathe to spin the pump. The lathe will provide heaps of power and give you the ability to try different speeds, better still it wont cost you to try. You will then know if you have the basics right before buying a bigger motor. Keep up the great work.
your holes need to be 15 deg. and turn the roter in the opposite way the holes water cold boils at 72psi vacuum and the roter will hammer the water creating heat clearance should be 1.2mm on 10" roter and less with smaller to much clearance will alow to much water to go through. 5000rpm for 10" 3600rpm for 12" and so on.
Ive been cheching out water hammer heaters for a while now.You said that you followed the instructions? I havent been able to find any body that actually has a set of plans for this type of thing, could you tell me where you found them.
not an expert but there may be some fine tuning with this needed to get the cavitation working correctly - it probably benefits from having the drive resonate with the natural frequency of the cavitation part
we made it out of toilet rolls and string... its suppost to break biscuits for old people with no teeth...eventually it could be used to make cake or even soup?
If you dont know whats going on, either do some research or expect the unexpected ;)
A really nice bloke made it for me in his big workshop... Its a shame he only had a massive piece of aluminium and never thought to make a smaller one first... Does anyone sell them? I couldnt find a price for less than $30,000... upto $100,000... seems a bit much for a wheel full of holes or a pump that kind pump... but it could be used to make cake or even soup... apparently heinz use them to make ketchup... it emulsifies the oils and water... mayonaise maybe the same...
Chin up boy...Your on the right track. Need 10hp 3ph 208/230 moter. But for safety's sake. Please chainge the rubber hose for steal. It could explode. I'm a HVAC Mech. and work around this stuff all the time. You must also put a psi regulator, backflow preventor, and filter for the inlet water. Also steam can cut you in half, wile its cook'n you. So for the love of GOD! Do it out side. With leather safety gear, and eye protection, or you'll be poached eggs in 2seconds. ;)
In ordinary hydrodynamics,cavitation is a mostly unintended and undesirable phenomenon. The bubbles are typically not sustained but implode as they & the water around them suddenly slows down again, with resulting sudden rise in ambient pressure.These small implosions can even lead to physical damage,for instance spalling damage to badly designed rotating propellers,pumps,& piping Your increasing fricton exponentially,as speed increases.127% efficiency.Cant change law of physics.More like 97%;)
As I asked, have you made one, seen one, used one, bought one???
Have you ever seen a device that is 99% + efficient and is fitted to lots of modern cars? It spins, has bearings but somehow overcomes the losses associated with bearings, friction, etc... A scroll pump!
Please keep your OPINIONS about the laws of whatever to yourself... I happen to think they are nonsense and only apply to certain models...
Tech. With 21 years of experence. Got my start at age 15, crawlling inside commercial boilers. I also study Phyics, but HVAC pays better. 99% is a real bench mark to be made. Just commenting on people saying It makes more energy than you put in.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ WE as a people need to start working together. I give without asking, for the advancement of science & the humanities. If you want I'll send you a schematic of a what you'er looking for.
Is Revelation21Pi on the right track? or are you as daft as him? Sounds like a jobsworth to me... he still hasnt answered one simple question... has he any experience with hydrosonic pumps... I suggest the answer is no... another armchair scientist...
yes! the guy just gave you a whole lot of information which you rubbished, offered schematics, but you choose to get hung up on whether he has ever built the EXACT same thing you are building, that he is an speculative armchair scientist and indirectly inferring that because you have built one that you are more the expert. nothing wrong with that if thats your buzz but always being right kills off a whole lot of learning or im am as daft as him. nice job on the pump i hope u get it working soon!
The guy (like many others) seems to be repeating stuff thats all over the web... I can read but I dont go around giving third party advice as though it is gospel... I didnt suggest I was an expert, but I am fed up with people who are pretending they are...
yes, there is lots of gospel to bump you off track. But perhaps he never noticed that on his research. Just delete the non productive comments so that we can talk about the topic.
My friend has built a working model of a 'cavitation heater" , it isn't a barrel with holes inside another barrel. One thing I learned is that you have to have the barrel a tight fit inside the other ,1/8" is recommended. The type we are using has nonconducting ends with metal skin forming a barrel. Inside is a stacked array of thin metal discs stacked on a shaft through sealed bearing to DC motor. We used wood for proto, add 20w motor oil and spin at 3k rpm. it will reach 180 deg easily.
So what you are stating is that cavitation or super cav heater do work and you have proved this ? however it is down the the spin speed of the motor plus clearance tolerance of 1/8" is this correct cheers
Yes, they do work and well but the one my friend built wasn't like the one pictured here. The spinning discs stacked on a shaft inside a metal drum with phenolic ends works off cavitation but also static charges that build I was told by my friend. You want to leave a space of 2 inches or so at the top between the last disc and end. Also we discovered that you need a tube connecting one end of the drum to the other to allow the oil to return otherwise it flows to the top and builds up pressure
Recommended speed is 3000 rpm, try building a small one using 6" metal pipe or tube cut to say 12", cut some discs 5 3/4" to stack on a 1/2 or 5/8" threaded rod, mount a flange bearing on end to support the shaft(I recommend a seal on the inside of the end piece. Use about 3/4" tube for return from one end to the other. Fill 90% with motor oil. Connect a 1 hp motor or close just to test your prototype! Good luck!
hello ,realy like your post,can your frend post some pictures for us amaters,how he have done it, it would be very nice from him,grettings from Slovenia
Your motor is simply too small. It is wery difficult to tell on the forehand how much power devices like this needs, and it it better with a motor that is too big.
I think you are right, the problem is because your motor is too small or your pump's rotor is too big. why don't you check the motor amp, i think it exceed the capacity.
Ok first off I am currently building one. And from research I have done there should be no reason yours wont work,Does the motor spin without it hooked up,and hell i mean forget 3phase,hook it ip to a old lawnmower engine,or even run a v belt off a car just to see if your end of things work, then u know its the motor.I am keenly interested,keep us posted, and nice website by the way
i would have to say it is the motor for sure, if i have one i would send it but i am sure shipping would kill me, are u interested in selling what u built withoutthe motor?? And spec wise they say a 1 inch thck disk 12 inches , with 36holes drilled 1 inch deep 15 degrees off center toward rotation should make 25k btu at 3000rpm
The motor spins fine without the pump. The pump and motor spin fine without the water... The rotor is 4" not 1"... it needs a bigger motor...
I have a 7.5hp speed controller, so I'm hanging on for a decent 3 phase motor before I waste anymore valuable time... the real problem is we dont live long enough...
blackfoot have u built one?? i am in the process, i am curious your input on 2 mm vs 3mm , i am also throwing around an idea of having the center hollow meaning less mass to spin, i have a 2 inch thinkpipe that i was thinking of drilling the hole 1 inch deep in. what horse u think u may need to spin your water boost??
so honestly did u get it to work?? some are actually curious, from research it appears the system works, stating how much work u put into it i find it hard to beleive u jsut bailed on it.
My hat is full of cake. When I think hard the icing melts and runs down my chin. Will this machine prevent this or will it make the cake stale and give me a rash?
Hello. If the motor gets hot within a few seconds, and if there is no "Hydrolic Lock" in the pump preventing the rotor from turning, then the motor is either operating at an incorrect voltage/frequency or the motor is not wired correctly. Does the motor spin when power is applied, with the pump disconnected? A fast over heating motor is usually a general indication of the above. Hope that helps.
The reason your motor overheats is probably because it is too small. If you run it at higher frequencies than 60Hz it might also overheat. If this was to be installed in the middle of nowhere, and with good access to water, how about running it with a pelton turbine? cold water heating cold water?
Is there supposed to be air in the system? Also how close is the cavitation drum from the walls of the housing? Isnt that supposed to be close?
I saw the one made for the Firehouse in Atlanta Georgia. Not sure about the details though. Thats some nice work that you all have done. Im sure theres probably a small problem that can be fixed.
Has anyone given any thought to the use of ceramics such as porcelain or Industrial plastics like Nylon or Polycarbonate to reduce heat transfer and weight. This may make it possible to get away with a smaller more efficient motor. Also if anyone has some blueprints for this and is willing to forward it would be appreciated
why not use the cold water inled to cool the motor? May have to make a jacket for it, but in turn you would be reducing the work on the motor (If only by a fraction) as the water would be slightly heated.
A great idea, it would up the efficiency, because an electric motor performs better when cooled, and the energy lost trough the cooling fins would also be used to heat the water.
hey my m8 has built one the same size and what he run into was the motor had to be able to rev to 15000rpm and have a variable speed drive to alter temp without changing the hole pattern in side the griggs pump has water feed in an out at the top of the pump to ,how big is the cavaty between the wheel inside and the casing ,uve got to allow for the reaction that happens it will intern cause motor to heat up hope ive been of some help , and you do realise what will happen to that garden hose
Thanks for that... I have a big inverter/speed controller... Just need a 7hp motor... If the hose melts and the whole unit leaks steam, I'll be happy!
Is it a heat pump (not pump that heats, but like a refrigerant cycle. Does it just move heat)? In which case how cold does the casing get?
If you mean 140% heat out to work in adiabatic efficiency, your talking over unity which is impossible. I'd suggest scrutinizing your instrumentation methods.
yes, but it converts that heat from work input into the shaft. I'm an Engineer, I do this stuff for a living. All I can find on google is stuff that claims over unity.
The only way you can ever have 100+% efficiency is in heat pumps (rather misleading expression though. Not breaking 1st law).
What I want to know is what the mechanical work to heat ratio of the cavitation cycle is. It'll be some number between 0 and 100%.
I know what your asking, its you that doesnt understand...
Its not a heat pump... The energy to heat thing is 140%...
You are 20! No matter what you think you know, your not an engineer yet sonny boy!
Engineers have experience...
You can have 100+% efficiencies in all kinds of open systems and some closed ones too!
Thats 140... Yes 140... Dont ask me anything else... Go and read a little subject called quantum physics and see if your blinkered vision still applies!
Sorry, I didn't realize my own text. I meant the heat out to work in ratio. which is just the inverse of the 140%. Thought you were claiming 1.4:1 heat output for the shaft input. This makes sense now.
Been a long long week, and cut me some slack there are WAY too many people claiming this is a magic machine that pulls energy out its ass and I got a bit frustrated.
your rotor gota be steel the casing gota be ali , you must have your rotor ali hahahah that will suck up the heat and give it down thw shaft to the motor , u want it the other way around ( rotor steel casing anything ali is good cous it will suck up the heat)
and allso you dont need to spin fast , it will only make the boil , 3500 rpm is more then what u need , if useing for heating water or home , th ebest is put engine oil in it, use it like a central heating boiler . hahah now u willl have fun with it , tell the world!
once you make the rotor in steel and u find that it is working fine , i like your work , very nice ! u must make me one i will pay up front as i have told u how to make it work , u o me one hahaha
it is working like a capacitor!!! and allso like a generator ! electrons moving ! use oil not water 20/30 engine oil pump tro radiators and hot water copper cylinder , and also dont use motor , use north pole bedini motor ,now u have free heating and hit water !
the motor is geting very hot fast is cous u is spining it very fast , thats what am saying no need to speed fast buddy , heat coming from rotor down the shaft heating the motor instead of the water hehehehehehehehe make rotor from steel , NEVER MAKE ROTOR FROM ALI OR ANY OTHER METEL ALLWAYS STEEL
As far as the experimentation stage you could try a 3hp router from a woodworking store, some are variable speed though when run that way they loose torque. I think they top out at 40,000 rpm. If you don't blow it up trying at least you'll have a router when your done.
Wrong. Even an underpowered motor would apply torque to the shaft. He would not be able to turn the motor shaft so easily - it would be locked up. I'm not a single phase motor guy, I work on three phase stuff. But the motor definately has a problem - most likely the start capacitor is bad.
If the pump load when full is too great for the motor, you either need a smaller pump, run it at a lower speed (which will probably reduce the effectiveness) or a motor power which better matches your expected output
no necesitas tantas rpm, obtendras calor por friccion y no por cavitación.Estoy probando un equipo similar con 7000 rpm y creo que se calienta por friccion. Cuando se produce este fenómeno la bomba se frena. ¿Alguien me ayuda a como obtener emulsion agua-gas oil?
mi bomba tiene un rotor de 25cm de diametro y dos filas de 24 hoyos de 15X15mm con una separacion de 1.5mm entre el rotor y el cuerpo de la bomba.Agregamos una salida más de 1/2" porque la bomba al cavitar se frenaba y tenía gran presion, salia liquido por los retenes y bulones, ahora le agregue una bomba centrifuga succionando a la salida doble de 1/2" y trabaja más libre.¿alguna ayuda para la emulsion agua-gas oil?
Check to make sure that the motor turns at full speed without getting hot when the pump is empty - there should not be any load then and it is a good idea to check for no problems at full speed before you put water into the pump
If you have zero flow, all the heat will probably be lost to the metalwork of the pump and so you need to take something out, if only a little. The main idea is to heat quickly and remive the water before it passes onto the pump.
Assuming that your motor is about 700W (approx 1HP) you can normally expect to heat 200ml - that's 0.2Litres by 50 degrees in a minute. Any greater flow will reduce the temperature rise i.e. a litre in a minute will only be heated by 10 degrees
Hi. My quess is that the rpm is not high enough to get the effect you want, also the motor seems too small. For this setup, judging by the size of the cav.pump, I'd suggest a 5.5kW motor or bigger. Don't worry it will work, it will be cheap to use for your home.
luika80 1 month ago
The problem is that your motor is far too small.
To achieve anything like a usable amount of heat you will need a large motor, 30HP or so. Even if you do this, it will be more inefficient than had you run the same amount of power through a resistive heater.
ozzirt 1 month ago
Hi I know you have heard a lot of diffrent things you did not want to hear. That said I believe you have to test other designs of rotors some with thirty holes and perhaps more. the sise of unit you have there you would probably need to use smaller holes. like I said you would have to test diffrent designs of rotors.
ckrisk 3 months ago
Boiling water does not = hot water... i do not see how this makes it any different. If there was a way to use the boiling water as an energy source to create power then to heat water in this, then it might work. But there is a reason this isnt used anywhere.... Its another scam.
SouthNJPC 4 months ago
use a dc motor, as an induction motor will get hot if spinning to slowly and doesn't make as much torque
fairyheli2 4 months ago
Don't give up!
sammair 6 months ago
phasing many electrical motors run on more than 1 phase there are several out there that run on 2 3 and 4 phase try replacing the motor
TimeReaver1 7 months ago
The motor should not get hot after a few seconds ~ maybe the wiring connection to the motor, perhaps the windings are crossed over. (sometimes in electric motors you might have to remove brass connecting tags joining some of the terminals whether in star or delta fomation). Test the motor without any load, measure the amps compared to the rating of the motor. Of course make sure it is the correct voltage, whether 3 phase 220v or 415 v.
yaluobud 8 months ago
Are you regulating the input pressure from the water? you could be flooding it, the output pressure needs to be controlled as well.
weetiewildrose 8 months ago
HI THERE. DID YOU MANAGE TO GET IT TO WORK?
THANKS
caitoxose 8 months ago
I would assume that the gap is not tight enough between rotor and housing. Shearing fluid requires tight tolerances.
TheInnovativeEnergy 10 months ago
Google Ben & Jerry's Acoustic refrigeration. Then what you do is use the ultrasonic wave power the cavitation in a refrigerant such as Helium or Hydrogen. Your cell stack is going to have to be very dense to match the resonance of the Ultrasound to max efficiency. Use capillary tubes to transfer heat to your water bath.
The cavitation of water directly is a loval thermal even and diffusion & convection bring to equilibrium to quickly for direct action.
KimberlyRPeacock 10 months ago
Could it be the size of the cavity holes?
Go on you for trying and sharing your results - its greatly appreciated.
magick93 11 months ago
your alignment is of from motor to pump basic alignment problem
sidster64 11 months ago
@sidster64 - it is not out of line...
waterboost 11 months ago
Finally I would like to try this project. I have seen it years ago but have not had the time. Time is rare for those of us who want to seek truth. I think there may be a use for this for my workshop and/or house. It may not yeild what I want but then again geothermal heat pumps work. I have got one running in my mothers farmhouse and it is wonderful (15+ yrs). So I ask anyone with any plans or concrete knowledge of this idea to post it or email me! lets do it for a better world. Peace2all
21ponies 11 months ago
Then again I may be doing something wrong when I try these things, you never know. I have built a hybrid car (you can even see how I did it by searching 21ponies hybrid car and something should come up) That project was a great success in which I acheive 55 mpg. Yes you can heat your shop with free energy from the Sun. (free for us now until we start getting taxed on it) We don't need to use one ounce of oil for energy or heat if we harnessed the sun's power... read on next post.
21ponies 11 months ago
Next I want to tell you a bit about me. I have experimented since I left the military in 1992 on cheaper, better use of our energy. I have tried many ideas I read in books and eventually on line. I have tried the acetone in gas/diesel and that I could not get to work (when I can't get it to work as described I move on) I consider myself the "mythbuster" of energy claims. I have built a wind generator, solor collectors and passive heating... read on next post.
21ponies 11 months ago
Ok first of all, I don't intend to say there is no such thing as over unity so I won't; however whenever you try something like this you should use what we have used in the past to start your experiment. Here is what I mean. If you want to make this thing work and you think it will give you, lets say 25,000 btu's for heating a home, then you should start with about 10HP motor. Then reduce the motor size or input to something less until you find the right size needed... read on next post.
21ponies 11 months ago
Just out of curiosity did you manage to get it working ?
Even if you did not manage to get it going, never give up it is people like you that make a difference because you are willing to have a go
keep up the good work
paulsireland 1 year ago
What's the matter ? TRUTH HURTS .... EH ? Sounds to like I struck a raw nerve. It must be really stinging for you send me a reply like that. To someone who's trying to show you a little empathy. You put that thing together 3 years ago ?.Still trying to get something for nothing ? Who's the fool ?
Bubblytubebob 1 year ago
I don't know what to say other than " if it looks like a duck and sounds like a duck , maybe it's a duck. A lot of work for nothing. I think the first hint was they claimed that it put out more power than it consumed.
Bubblytubebob 1 year ago 2
@Bubblytubebob - What, if you sound like a cock you probably are an absolutely massive Cock... Keep your opinions to yourself fool!
waterboost 1 year ago
@waterboost I'm afraid so long as you are not willing to accept the physical evidence that this is a scam, you will continue to be disappointed.
The unit used in the demonstration appears to have a 3 phase motor of 30-50 HP.
The truth is that you can try as hard as you like, but you will never get more energy out, than you put in, whether it is electricity or heat.
ozzirt 1 month ago
@Bubblytubebob Cavitation principle is real, it is used in industrial process all the time, if it isnt heating the water or turning it to steam there is a flaw in the design, they sell commercial pumps that heat water this way OU or not they are real.
weetiewildrose 8 months ago
Did you ever sort this problem out?
djburke135 1 year ago
here's the reason why the motor got hot and the water didn't . the rotation speed is relative to the resonate frequency of the water molecule , so you either have to increase the speed of the motor or change the depth and size and angle of the holes , everything as to match to create the atomic molecular pressure needed to cause the molecule to heat up , if the angles and the spacing and the depth and shape of the bottom of the holes were shaped perfected the speed could be greatly reduced
jhunted7667 1 year ago
check out hydrodynamics
happyfox711 1 year ago
cavitation can be achieved with bladed rotors too only the blade's shape is hard to determin and it would take a lot of money and experiments to do it...when the fluid reaches the blade closer to the rotor speed fluid increases therefor pressure decreases creating negetive pressures that could boil the water at 15 degrees celsius but the the blade should have such a profile that the speed doesn't decrease as it does in conventional pumps :)
liviooo18 1 year ago
can you please tell me where you got your print from
TheJteachout 1 year ago
@TheJteachout Print? do you mean design? have a look on rexresearch - we didnt have plans...
waterboost 1 year ago
@TheJteachout
For what its worth, I considered the so called Keely disassociation frequency of water, the resonant poit at which water can explode. I calculated the size a closed cylinder would need to be to resonate at 42,800 Hz, and it would need to be 9 mm length or in the case of a hole 9mm deep for water at 50 degrees C. thats about the dimension of the holes. Could that be part of the secret? - the water is resonating? Also I think your motor needs to go about 4 times faster.
fat1g0ch
fat1g0ch 1 year ago
you may know supersonic is a speed of mach 1.
Hypersonic is a speed of mach mach 10.
Hypersonic pump should be able to accelerate water to top speed of 10000 km/h
Does your electric motor accelerate the water like a moon mission rocket?
farhada46 1 year ago
@farhada46 - I'll excuse your mistake this time... but check the words... Hydro - means water - Sonic means sound... It uses standing waves/low pressure regions to boil the water... the motor does not have to spin faster than the speed of sound...
waterboost 1 year ago
doe's anyone know where to buy one that works
jhunted7667 1 year ago
@jhunted7667 hydrodynamics sells them, cant write the adress here , let it be an iq test...
happyfox711 1 year ago
whats the gap between the rotor and stator? maybe you have to adjust that smaller ...
1vovka 1 year ago
How deep are the holes? It is the slug of water that pulls a vacuum during cavitation.
Maybe your holes are not deep enough.
acerkiwi 1 year ago
the angle of the holes shouldn't be 90 degree
TheJmz1983 1 year ago
Maybe if u make a ridge or a lip on the inside of the outside rim that will sweep over the holes
aztrucker22 1 year ago
Why is it not working?
Maybe its because trying to heat water through the friction created in the water its self (there is no resistance between the casing and rotor at all) has to be the most inefficient way of trying to heat water. This whole over-unity aspect of this hoax is laughable.
I think you may have to feed the output back into the input and create a closed loop witout any expander on it to actually get this thing to heat the water.
Which is useless in any application of it.
GammaSouljah 1 year ago
try larger motor and put a valve on the output side.on cent pumps if u close the out the amps drop.
Lostkiddsoul 1 year ago
Hi nice job. this may help The drum must be insulated from the casing the shaft should be zinc plated this will cause a type of fusion as the atoms are being smashed this electric component will cause massive heat generation a 2min run should produce 160 deg @1500 rpm. try with an inch of oil and plug the out put maybe this will help. if your in the uk call me kim on 01189477268 this is the first time I have posted so hope its alright to put my number in the post
bioradionics 1 year ago
@bioradionics, you can click on the username and send a private message for numbers, if dickheads prank you just ask the guy to delete your message from his page
startwiththeballs 1 year ago
did you ever get it sorted?
fireicer 1 year ago
Comment removed
OmniBridge 1 year ago
I think you also need to have a "pressure tank" put the water in a double pressurized tank for maximum temperature.. "just a guess"
OmniBridge 1 year ago
are you turning the whole rotor on the inside? it seems to me like turning an interior rotor with fins would make the job easier on the motor... could be wrong...
Jeniferw1n 1 year ago
Your motor is running over its service factor. Get a bigger motor with more torque and more HP.
At a low speed it is easy to turn, at a high speed the motor will encouter alot of resistance.
Motors have a service factor rating, when you operate outside those parameters, the motors will overheat.
Also get H class insulated motors, these can have a safe internal temp upto 180degC
Most motors are B class which is around 130degC internal temp.
mythril4 2 years ago
The hole guy is probably right, the water needs to be pummelled, so I should imagine holes need to be assorted angles to disrupt any uniformity, and rotor maybe needs to be a close fit in housing. I intent to make a small testing version to experiment on whether it really works, of which I think it should. As for efficiency, I am not so sure.
humbolt153 2 years ago
Check polarity and wireing for you motor,read label
darnitsa 2 years ago
I heard the holes need to be at different depths and angles to turbulate the water, being the same depth and angle does not give you any way for the water to be disrupted inside the rotor to produce heat.
becoming29 2 years ago
where did you get the instuctions ? I want to see the designs
jhunted7667 2 years ago
The other vid I saw shoed holes that looked to be at least 1" dia, if not maybe 2".
The smaller holes and (not having seen the holes, IDK) the shape of the holes would be the issue. Are the holes flat on the bottom, or are they rounded? A divit, similar to the bump on a golf ball, at the bottom of the hole is what I'll be shooting for when I give it a go.
Good luck and do not stop trying! The co. that makes these doesn't sell them to individuals, only companies as a flameless heat source.
RuffleTheTeacher 2 years ago
what about skematics where do I get skematics
jhunted7667 2 years ago
Though I have not looked as of this moment, I would assume Google. Google will provide the answer to every question you ask it.... classified or unclassified.
You just have to ask it the right questions!
Also try freepatentsonline(dot)com for the original patent.
BTW.. if you have any luck, do not keep me in the dark! this is my next project.
RuffleTheTeacher 2 years ago
Comment removed
danster26 2 years ago
Comment removed
danster26 2 years ago
you wired it wrong> Sounds like DC instead of AC. Or 3 phase instead of single phase...
coolestdude80 2 years ago
I'll say it again for people who cant read, the rotor is the wrong design inside and the motor is too small!
The bearings are fine, the wiring is fine...
The machine is beautifully made though and makes an excellent foot stand for watching TV with my feet up ;)
waterboost 2 years ago
Could be the bearings not being able to hold up while the device is in operation. It may be able to move freely when there is no power applied. But, due to the nature of the device, that it specifically induces shock waves, it may have a different coefficient of friction while in operation.
As for the solution, nasa came up with something. Search hydrodynamics.
I'm wondering if a fluid type bearing is suited for this task.
What kind of bearings you got on there, mate?
InfiniTcell 2 years ago
If the motor isn't spinning replace the motor, or at least double check the wiring.
Peopleunit 2 years ago
Mmmm, yeh... its not plugged in... read the information at the top
waterboost 2 years ago
Solved Yet?
Hard to troubleshoot with this video. Please send a video of the apparatus being used... sounds to me like the cylinder isnt moving freely or at all. This would cause the motor to overheat and the other to feel cool.
AJest
jestiron 2 years ago
Higher capacity electric motor, and water inlet and outlet flows same direction as pump turns
awsomescience 2 years ago
I didn't read all the comment,
Sry
Did you try an bigger motor and with a variable drive.
carotteaubeurre 2 years ago
hi did you get it working and wear did you buy it can you let me know
johnnnysq 2 years ago 2
its right behind me... it needs some work to make it work... we asked someone to make it for us ;)
waterboost 2 years ago
I don't see that the unit is pressurized- cavitation requires pressure- its the pressure that holds the air bubbles in the drum holes coupled with centifugal force, that agitate and hence become steam-
Shannonjdupont 2 years ago
This right here. What is the pressure reading on the water going in to the pump?
MisterBaz1 2 years ago
hey guy's what ever happened to the hydrostatic pump , did you ever get it working? please email me so i can look at the plans and give my current input ,, my nick name is toe. i design and build and restore porsches,, i have my own shop so i hve the resources to play.
kristahulett5 2 years ago
You have stalled your induction motor during a start. You should get a small AC inverter drive with sensorless vector control. This will run your motor at the optimum slip during the intitial overcomming of the inertia. The motoro is currently drawing hige current fro not torque.
bimblealong 2 years ago
you are right there on the spot! Initial wasted currency. Can either be fixed with rewiring to two step starting mode, but better get frequency modulator start up device, or inverter drive...
Integralisto 2 years ago
The motor is either not wired correctly or the voltages are wrong... check it out. A motor with no load will run cool if the voltage and wiring are correct.
Canne29 2 years ago
an electric motor will run with no load for years and never get hot. The question I have, is the motor wired incorrectly? It may be a multi tap motor and tapped at the wrong voltage.
helistructor 2 years ago
i exoect the reason for the motor to be so hot is that it has very little loading on the stator. the motor will need some resistance to perform more efficantly or as it has been designed to. i expect you'll need more pressure in your water chamber and recommend you remove plastic hose pipe and replace with steel
absoluteelectric 2 years ago
Adjust the space between the drum's circumference and the housing to 1/8 inch; and the the axial end spacing (both ends) with housing to 1/4 inch each.
Use adjustable RPM to tune into sympathetic vibration, resonant frequency.
AnotherArgo 3 years ago
love this ,just a comment dont want to impose just wondering, could it be air lock causing big load water does have air in it and has to be bled out when i worked on high output boilers we bled lines and installed bleeders because air would lock up our pumps and not allow water to go into the places it needed to go. just a comment good luck dont give up best wishs
timgebhart 3 years ago
From what i've found air seems to have very little effect if any, but the device seems to be pretty efficient at hammering the disolved air out of fresh water.
andrewsengineering 3 years ago
can someone not make a small model that works and shows the workings,i thought the housing could be cup shaped and sat in a bucket of water the spinny bit could be put in a drill like a drill bit and lowered into the bucket of water and then into the cup shaped housing that is made secure in the bucket start the drill (that is plugged into a circuit breaker due to havin water and drill so close )and spin it up ?!
burtskite 3 years ago
There is a video of one that has a clear wall chamber, look up SPR cavitation...
andrewsengineering 3 years ago
If you've verified motor wiring to be correct, then uncouple the motor and run it and see if it gets hot. If it does not then the motor may be too small to spin the rotor. The rotor would have very little resistance to spin by hand but when you get it spinning at 3,000 rpm then it will have resistance. Your motor may not be spnning fast enough to start cavitation, smaller rotors need to spin faster. You also did not mention whether or not you drilled the holes in at an angle.
andrewsengineering 3 years ago
when looking at the picture, i can see a pedestal sink in the background...it appears to have TWO handles. If my memory serves me right ..then try the one on the lelf and see if it gets hot. Failing that crack open the left one and then discard the motor and casing in the foreground...problem solved
marceltony 3 years ago
its an industrial unit with no hot water, but thanks for reminding us about that hot tap...
these things do work you know... just not mine ;)
a similar machine is used in the production of food... they are also used for emulsifying oil and water for use as fuel....
waterboost 3 years ago
What in the incoming voltage 120 / 220 single phase - 3 phase. Also, if it is the correct motor for the incoming line, have you also checked wiring plaquard to verify it is pinned correctly. Depending on the motor, the wiring can be arranged for 120 / 220, and also directional polarity reversal. Good Luck
johnbuilt 3 years ago
Hopefully you've solved the problems. I've just skimmed some of the comments, as in most only about 10% infromation, balance hype & rubbish. Anyway... Just curious if you didn't resolve; have you verified infromation on motor plate plaquard? Just guessing without amy real information. But Looks like motor I've used before in 3ph applications. Is it a 3ph motor? Cont'd next comment.
johnbuilt 3 years ago
please would you mind giving more information,, i am so interested i wanto aplied this tecnology to green house vegetable production.. to heat or warm during the winter season...
chiautlaedomex 3 years ago
rexresearch has the plans... search for griggs pump... measurements for this one are in the information (top right)
waterboost 3 years ago
you can edit the video description and post a link there.
gabydewilde 3 years ago
A few of us are interested in seeing if this beautifully crafted pump actually works. You have established that there may me a motor problem. Have you thought of fitting the pump to your friends lathe, using the lathe to spin the pump. The lathe will provide heaps of power and give you the ability to try different speeds, better still it wont cost you to try. You will then know if you have the basics right before buying a bigger motor. Keep up the great work.
dsinspire 3 years ago
your holes need to be 15 deg. and turn the roter in the opposite way the holes water cold boils at 72psi vacuum and the roter will hammer the water creating heat clearance should be 1.2mm on 10" roter and less with smaller to much clearance will alow to much water to go through. 5000rpm for 10" 3600rpm for 12" and so on.
klassdavid 3 years ago
It doesn't seem right for the motor to get hot without load. Look up the rotoverter. I think that would be a good means of propulsion.
Good luck,
Fearmonger101 3 years ago
Just google griggs pump? its easy...
The plans are here:
3w(dot)rexresearch(dot)com(slash)griggs(slash)griggs(dot)htm
waterboost 3 years ago
Ive been cheching out water hammer heaters for a while now.You said that you followed the instructions? I havent been able to find any body that actually has a set of plans for this type of thing, could you tell me where you found them.
oilmny 3 years ago
You have a good heater, just try this:-)
inject a small amount of air with your water input, and limmit your water input, to your output.
cptkirk2007 3 years ago
not an expert but there may be some fine tuning with this needed to get the cavitation working correctly - it probably benefits from having the drive resonate with the natural frequency of the cavitation part
lexichronicle 3 years ago
check the axial thrust, maybe it is overheating the bearings
julio2008a 3 years ago
the bearings stay cold...
waterboost 3 years ago
where did you buy this motor from and what does it do?
fox20012 3 years ago
we made it out of toilet rolls and string... its suppost to break biscuits for old people with no teeth...eventually it could be used to make cake or even soup?
If you dont know whats going on, either do some research or expect the unexpected ;)
waterboost 3 years ago
Just tell me where you brought it from lol
I'd be surprised if you machined the Cavitation mechanism your self, unless you have access to a big work shop. Id like to build one too.
fox20012 3 years ago
A really nice bloke made it for me in his big workshop... Its a shame he only had a massive piece of aluminium and never thought to make a smaller one first... Does anyone sell them? I couldnt find a price for less than $30,000... upto $100,000... seems a bit much for a wheel full of holes or a pump that kind pump... but it could be used to make cake or even soup... apparently heinz use them to make ketchup... it emulsifies the oils and water... mayonaise maybe the same...
waterboost 3 years ago
Chin up boy...Your on the right track. Need 10hp 3ph 208/230 moter. But for safety's sake. Please chainge the rubber hose for steal. It could explode. I'm a HVAC Mech. and work around this stuff all the time. You must also put a psi regulator, backflow preventor, and filter for the inlet water. Also steam can cut you in half, wile its cook'n you. So for the love of GOD! Do it out side. With leather safety gear, and eye protection, or you'll be poached eggs in 2seconds. ;)
Revelation21Pi 3 years ago
Those sound like wise words... thanks... have you played with one of these in real life or just speculating?
waterboost 3 years ago
In ordinary hydrodynamics,cavitation is a mostly unintended and undesirable phenomenon. The bubbles are typically not sustained but implode as they & the water around them suddenly slows down again, with resulting sudden rise in ambient pressure.These small implosions can even lead to physical damage,for instance spalling damage to badly designed rotating propellers,pumps,& piping Your increasing fricton exponentially,as speed increases.127% efficiency.Cant change law of physics.More like 97%;)
Revelation21Pi 3 years ago
As I asked, have you made one, seen one, used one, bought one???
Have you ever seen a device that is 99% + efficient and is fitted to lots of modern cars? It spins, has bearings but somehow overcomes the losses associated with bearings, friction, etc... A scroll pump!
Please keep your OPINIONS about the laws of whatever to yourself... I happen to think they are nonsense and only apply to certain models...
waterboost 3 years ago
I'm 2nd generation Heating & Air conditioning
Tech. With 21 years of experence. Got my start at age 15, crawlling inside commercial boilers. I also study Phyics, but HVAC pays better. 99% is a real bench mark to be made. Just commenting on people saying It makes more energy than you put in.\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ WE as a people need to start working together. I give without asking, for the advancement of science & the humanities. If you want I'll send you a schematic of a what you'er looking for.
Revelation21Pi 3 years ago
I would love a schematic but I also have to ask again...
Have you made one, seen one, used one, bought one??? or just read and thought...
waterboost 3 years ago
you are on the right track Revelation21Pi :)
toamaori 3 years ago
Is Revelation21Pi on the right track? or are you as daft as him? Sounds like a jobsworth to me... he still hasnt answered one simple question... has he any experience with hydrosonic pumps... I suggest the answer is no... another armchair scientist...
waterboost 3 years ago
yes! the guy just gave you a whole lot of information which you rubbished, offered schematics, but you choose to get hung up on whether he has ever built the EXACT same thing you are building, that he is an speculative armchair scientist and indirectly inferring that because you have built one that you are more the expert. nothing wrong with that if thats your buzz but always being right kills off a whole lot of learning or im am as daft as him. nice job on the pump i hope u get it working soon!
toamaori 3 years ago
The guy (like many others) seems to be repeating stuff thats all over the web... I can read but I dont go around giving third party advice as though it is gospel... I didnt suggest I was an expert, but I am fed up with people who are pretending they are...
He doesnt even say anything useful...
The pump is on the floor covered in dust...
schematics are on rexresearch...
waterboost 3 years ago
yes, there is lots of gospel to bump you off track. But perhaps he never noticed that on his research. Just delete the non productive comments so that we can talk about the topic.
Fearmonger101 3 years ago
My friend has built a working model of a 'cavitation heater" , it isn't a barrel with holes inside another barrel. One thing I learned is that you have to have the barrel a tight fit inside the other ,1/8" is recommended. The type we are using has nonconducting ends with metal skin forming a barrel. Inside is a stacked array of thin metal discs stacked on a shaft through sealed bearing to DC motor. We used wood for proto, add 20w motor oil and spin at 3k rpm. it will reach 180 deg easily.
LkOutMtnMan 3 years ago
So what you are stating is that cavitation or super cav heater do work and you have proved this ? however it is down the the spin speed of the motor plus clearance tolerance of 1/8" is this correct cheers
blisterj 3 years ago
Yes, they do work and well but the one my friend built wasn't like the one pictured here. The spinning discs stacked on a shaft inside a metal drum with phenolic ends works off cavitation but also static charges that build I was told by my friend. You want to leave a space of 2 inches or so at the top between the last disc and end. Also we discovered that you need a tube connecting one end of the drum to the other to allow the oil to return otherwise it flows to the top and builds up pressure
LkOutMtnMan 3 years ago
Recommended speed is 3000 rpm, try building a small one using 6" metal pipe or tube cut to say 12", cut some discs 5 3/4" to stack on a 1/2 or 5/8" threaded rod, mount a flange bearing on end to support the shaft(I recommend a seal on the inside of the end piece. Use about 3/4" tube for return from one end to the other. Fill 90% with motor oil. Connect a 1 hp motor or close just to test your prototype! Good luck!
LkOutMtnMan 3 years ago
hello ,realy like your post,can your frend post some pictures for us amaters,how he have done it, it would be very nice from him,grettings from Slovenia
sifushox 2 years ago
Your motor is simply too small. It is wery difficult to tell on the forehand how much power devices like this needs, and it it better with a motor that is too big.
VanDeGraaff 3 years ago
I think you are right, the problem is because your motor is too small or your pump's rotor is too big. why don't you check the motor amp, i think it exceed the capacity.
jktlivecom 3 years ago
As to what you did wrong, only a guess since I'm not really familiar with this, is the motor running in the proper direction?
benchkey 3 years ago
yes.... and the motor is fine... and the capacitor is fine... the motor is just too small!
waterboost 3 years ago
Ok first off I am currently building one. And from research I have done there should be no reason yours wont work,Does the motor spin without it hooked up,and hell i mean forget 3phase,hook it ip to a old lawnmower engine,or even run a v belt off a car just to see if your end of things work, then u know its the motor.I am keenly interested,keep us posted, and nice website by the way
duluth65 3 years ago
i would have to say it is the motor for sure, if i have one i would send it but i am sure shipping would kill me, are u interested in selling what u built withoutthe motor?? And spec wise they say a 1 inch thck disk 12 inches , with 36holes drilled 1 inch deep 15 degrees off center toward rotation should make 25k btu at 3000rpm
duluth65 3 years ago
The motor spins fine without the pump. The pump and motor spin fine without the water... The rotor is 4" not 1"... it needs a bigger motor...
I have a 7.5hp speed controller, so I'm hanging on for a decent 3 phase motor before I waste anymore valuable time... the real problem is we dont live long enough...
waterboost 3 years ago
2mm gap ;must be 3mm allround
blackfoot23 3 years ago
blackfoot have u built one?? i am in the process, i am curious your input on 2 mm vs 3mm , i am also throwing around an idea of having the center hollow meaning less mass to spin, i have a 2 inch thinkpipe that i was thinking of drilling the hole 1 inch deep in. what horse u think u may need to spin your water boost??
duluth65 3 years ago
so honestly did u get it to work?? some are actually curious, from research it appears the system works, stating how much work u put into it i find it hard to beleive u jsut bailed on it.
duluth65 3 years ago
cheeky git! I do have other priorities...
supply me a 3 phase motor and I'll have another go! Bailed on it? Have you made one? Why not?
Does your car have a proper supplemental fuel system? Are you converting your home into a self sufficient home? Come on? it appears the system works!
waterboost 3 years ago
My hat is full of cake. When I think hard the icing melts and runs down my chin. Will this machine prevent this or will it make the cake stale and give me a rash?
catfishagain 3 years ago
Your using the wrong kind of icing...
Blue Circle do and excellent range of icings used for construction... Google 'cement' and let me know how you get on...
The blue circle icing can cause a rash but it wont melt and run down your chin... :)
waterboost 3 years ago
Did you ever get a new motor and get the darn thing to work?
brianelevy 3 years ago
This has been flagged as spam show
no, not yet... I actually have more important things to do!
waterboost 3 years ago
Hello. If the motor gets hot within a few seconds, and if there is no "Hydrolic Lock" in the pump preventing the rotor from turning, then the motor is either operating at an incorrect voltage/frequency or the motor is not wired correctly. Does the motor spin when power is applied, with the pump disconnected? A fast over heating motor is usually a general indication of the above. Hope that helps.
bradsvideos 3 years ago
I meant "Hydraulic"... ;)
bradsvideos 3 years ago
The reason your motor overheats is probably because it is too small. If you run it at higher frequencies than 60Hz it might also overheat. If this was to be installed in the middle of nowhere, and with good access to water, how about running it with a pelton turbine? cold water heating cold water?
VanDeGraaff 3 years ago
Is there supposed to be air in the system? Also how close is the cavitation drum from the walls of the housing? Isnt that supposed to be close?
I saw the one made for the Firehouse in Atlanta Georgia. Not sure about the details though. Thats some nice work that you all have done. Im sure theres probably a small problem that can be fixed.
dmgspycat 3 years ago
Has anyone given any thought to the use of ceramics such as porcelain or Industrial plastics like Nylon or Polycarbonate to reduce heat transfer and weight. This may make it possible to get away with a smaller more efficient motor. Also if anyone has some blueprints for this and is willing to forward it would be appreciated
AKASomerandomguy 3 years ago
not sure if im right here or not but try running it in opposite direction.
obsidianhunter 3 years ago
Great work I want to build one too.Does any one have any technical drawings to help me get started..
ozieagle69 3 years ago
why not use the cold water inled to cool the motor? May have to make a jacket for it, but in turn you would be reducing the work on the motor (If only by a fraction) as the water would be slightly heated.
Sethjxl 3 years ago
A great idea, it would up the efficiency, because an electric motor performs better when cooled, and the energy lost trough the cooling fins would also be used to heat the water.
VanDeGraaff 3 years ago
Sorry, this was meant as a reply to Sethjx'l post where he suggests cooling the engine with the cold water going into the machine.
VanDeGraaff 3 years ago
hey my m8 has built one the same size and what he run into was the motor had to be able to rev to 15000rpm and have a variable speed drive to alter temp without changing the hole pattern in side the griggs pump has water feed in an out at the top of the pump to ,how big is the cavaty between the wheel inside and the casing ,uve got to allow for the reaction that happens it will intern cause motor to heat up hope ive been of some help , and you do realise what will happen to that garden hose
JRfabrication 3 years ago
Thanks for that... I have a big inverter/speed controller... Just need a 7hp motor... If the hose melts and the whole unit leaks steam, I'll be happy!
waterboost 3 years ago
you might want to check the speed.
review the principle, calculate and determine needed speed.
probably the motor heat because you overpower it. em splitting freq are 610Hz and 42,8kHz but you need to tune your speed.
drsvoice 3 years ago
whats the efficiency of the cavitation cycle?
No over unity crap please.
deepfishstick 3 years ago
140%
waterboost 3 years ago
Is it a heat pump (not pump that heats, but like a refrigerant cycle. Does it just move heat)? In which case how cold does the casing get?
If you mean 140% heat out to work in adiabatic efficiency, your talking over unity which is impossible. I'd suggest scrutinizing your instrumentation methods.
deepfishstick 3 years ago
It is not a heat pump...
Do a google search on 'hydrosonic pump' and stop being a gimp...
cavitation in water creates heat...
waterboost 3 years ago
yes, but it converts that heat from work input into the shaft. I'm an Engineer, I do this stuff for a living. All I can find on google is stuff that claims over unity.
The only way you can ever have 100+% efficiency is in heat pumps (rather misleading expression though. Not breaking 1st law).
What I want to know is what the mechanical work to heat ratio of the cavitation cycle is. It'll be some number between 0 and 100%.
deepfishstick 3 years ago
Thanks Mr Engineer
I know what your asking, its you that doesnt understand...
Its not a heat pump... The energy to heat thing is 140%...
You are 20! No matter what you think you know, your not an engineer yet sonny boy!
Engineers have experience...
You can have 100+% efficiencies in all kinds of open systems and some closed ones too!
Thats 140... Yes 140... Dont ask me anything else... Go and read a little subject called quantum physics and see if your blinkered vision still applies!
waterboost 3 years ago
Sorry, I didn't realize my own text. I meant the heat out to work in ratio. which is just the inverse of the 140%. Thought you were claiming 1.4:1 heat output for the shaft input. This makes sense now.
Been a long long week, and cut me some slack there are WAY too many people claiming this is a magic machine that pulls energy out its ass and I got a bit frustrated.
deepfishstick 3 years ago
Sorry, I yield to my foolishness, and will go crawl of into my shame puddle. Sigh.
I need a vacation...
deepfishstick 3 years ago
your rotor gota be steel the casing gota be ali , you must have your rotor ali hahahah that will suck up the heat and give it down thw shaft to the motor , u want it the other way around ( rotor steel casing anything ali is good cous it will suck up the heat)
Harpal1966 3 years ago
and allso you dont need to spin fast , it will only make the boil , 3500 rpm is more then what u need , if useing for heating water or home , th ebest is put engine oil in it, use it like a central heating boiler . hahah now u willl have fun with it , tell the world!
Harpal1966 3 years ago
once you make the rotor in steel and u find that it is working fine , i like your work , very nice ! u must make me one i will pay up front as i have told u how to make it work , u o me one hahaha
Harpal1966 3 years ago
it is working like a capacitor!!! and allso like a generator ! electrons moving ! use oil not water 20/30 engine oil pump tro radiators and hot water copper cylinder , and also dont use motor , use north pole bedini motor ,now u have free heating and hit water !
Harpal1966 3 years ago
the motor is geting very hot fast is cous u is spining it very fast , thats what am saying no need to speed fast buddy , heat coming from rotor down the shaft heating the motor instead of the water hehehehehehehehe make rotor from steel , NEVER MAKE ROTOR FROM ALI OR ANY OTHER METEL ALLWAYS STEEL
Harpal1966 3 years ago
Nice work!Try a 5 hp 3450 rpm motor. I'd love to see you make this work.
jdfixit 3 years ago
Me too! Have you got a spare motor?
waterboost 3 years ago
bummer
ZionistWorldOrder 3 years ago
As far as the experimentation stage you could try a 3hp router from a woodworking store, some are variable speed though when run that way they loose torque. I think they top out at 40,000 rpm. If you don't blow it up trying at least you'll have a router when your done.
unwittingcattledocom 3 years ago
If the motor is getting hot that fast it well be a problem with the start capacitor.
pipeorganphil 3 years ago
Nope... The motor is underpowered and too slow for the job at hand... Its that simple...
waterboost 3 years ago
Wrong. Even an underpowered motor would apply torque to the shaft. He would not be able to turn the motor shaft so easily - it would be locked up. I'm not a single phase motor guy, I work on three phase stuff. But the motor definately has a problem - most likely the start capacitor is bad.
Slowchaos1 3 years ago
If the pump load when full is too great for the motor, you either need a smaller pump, run it at a lower speed (which will probably reduce the effectiveness) or a motor power which better matches your expected output
furzeham 4 years ago
I'm looking for at least 10HP with an inverter so we can spin at 15,000 RPM if we want to...
Strathclyde University have had one of these working, with 2 inlet pipes and 2 massive steam outlets but they needed 20HP to spin the beast!
The smaller the rotor, the more speed you need!
I've just had a thought, maybe the motor is faulty! I'll go have a look ;)
waterboost 4 years ago
did you drill your holes at an angle on your rotor because if you didnt then it will never work
theoneagain 4 years ago
no necesitas tantas rpm, obtendras calor por friccion y no por cavitación.Estoy probando un equipo similar con 7000 rpm y creo que se calienta por friccion. Cuando se produce este fenómeno la bomba se frena. ¿Alguien me ayuda a como obtener emulsion agua-gas oil?
rodibruno arroba yahoo punto com
rodibrunoo 4 years ago
Gracias Amigo!
Todos es Chachi!
waterboost 4 years ago
mi bomba tiene un rotor de 25cm de diametro y dos filas de 24 hoyos de 15X15mm con una separacion de 1.5mm entre el rotor y el cuerpo de la bomba.Agregamos una salida más de 1/2" porque la bomba al cavitar se frenaba y tenía gran presion, salia liquido por los retenes y bulones, ahora le agregue una bomba centrifuga succionando a la salida doble de 1/2" y trabaja más libre.¿alguna ayuda para la emulsion agua-gas oil?
gracias
rodibrunoo 4 years ago
Check to make sure that the motor turns at full speed without getting hot when the pump is empty - there should not be any load then and it is a good idea to check for no problems at full speed before you put water into the pump
furzeham 4 years ago
If you have zero flow, all the heat will probably be lost to the metalwork of the pump and so you need to take something out, if only a little. The main idea is to heat quickly and remive the water before it passes onto the pump.
furzeham 4 years ago
Assuming that your motor is about 700W (approx 1HP) you can normally expect to heat 200ml - that's 0.2Litres by 50 degrees in a minute. Any greater flow will reduce the temperature rise i.e. a litre in a minute will only be heated by 10 degrees
furzeham 4 years ago
Oops, sorry, I meant to typr coolant not collant, either way, it's proabably taking all the heat away before you can measure it
furzeham 4 years ago