I don't see why it wouldn't, though a fingerboard would be needed to cover the joint visible on the neck. Since the above video, I've figured out how to make the neck extend into the peghead so the top of the scarf joint occurs over the peghead. Then it's only the peghead that needs a veneer covering for looks. The process for making the joint is very similar.
I currently have four of my banjos and am willing to sell one. Prices would be around $300 to $450, depending on the banjo. These are low for custom-made banjos, because I am still learning to build them. All play well in my opinion, however. You can write me at jack_cr2 AT yahoo.com. I wrote it this way to avoid spammers. Banjos are cherry, mahogany, maple and walnut. Buyer would pay shipping. Satisfaction is guaranteed, but you'd have to pay return shipping of undamaged banjo to get a refund.
@IEJP I think oak would have the strength you need. I haven't used it and would prefer a more close-grained wood, something like maple, that can be sanded very smooth. If the oak is to be the fingerboard as well as the neck, the open grain may not be ideal but would probably do. My necks usually wind up about 7/8 of an inch thick at the top of the neck (where the nut is). I haven't noticed any bowing of the necks over time, even though I don't put any truss rods in the necks.
Thanks for the comments. This banjo is more than 80 percent done. It will have a bronze tone ring made from a 1/4-inch bronze rod, which I hand bent and pinned together with a small nail. I like the sound of the bronze better than steel or brass. Seems sweeter when you ping it.
I'm making a fretless gourd banjo. Do you think that that joint will work well for a fretless banjo?
amrussell42 9 months ago
@amrussell42
I don't see why it wouldn't, though a fingerboard would be needed to cover the joint visible on the neck. Since the above video, I've figured out how to make the neck extend into the peghead so the top of the scarf joint occurs over the peghead. Then it's only the peghead that needs a veneer covering for looks. The process for making the joint is very similar.
jackcr2 9 months ago
and how can one purchase one of these fine contraptions of yours?
mtthwdvs 1 year ago
I currently have four of my banjos and am willing to sell one. Prices would be around $300 to $450, depending on the banjo. These are low for custom-made banjos, because I am still learning to build them. All play well in my opinion, however. You can write me at jack_cr2 AT yahoo.com. I wrote it this way to avoid spammers. Banjos are cherry, mahogany, maple and walnut. Buyer would pay shipping. Satisfaction is guaranteed, but you'd have to pay return shipping of undamaged banjo to get a refund.
jackcr2 1 year ago
do you think 3/4 inch plywood would be strong enough for a neck?
IEJP 1 year ago
@IEJP No, I would stay away from plywood for multiple reasons. I can elaborate, but, speaking in general, you want a hard wood.
jackcr2 1 year ago
@jackcr2 so would 1 inch oak work?
IEJP 1 year ago
@IEJP I think oak would have the strength you need. I haven't used it and would prefer a more close-grained wood, something like maple, that can be sanded very smooth. If the oak is to be the fingerboard as well as the neck, the open grain may not be ideal but would probably do. My necks usually wind up about 7/8 of an inch thick at the top of the neck (where the nut is). I haven't noticed any bowing of the necks over time, even though I don't put any truss rods in the necks.
jackcr2 1 year ago
Great stuff I hope you continue these posts.
Do you plan to put a tone ring in the banjo?
longchalk74 2 years ago
Thanks for the comments. This banjo is more than 80 percent done. It will have a bronze tone ring made from a 1/4-inch bronze rod, which I hand bent and pinned together with a small nail. I like the sound of the bronze better than steel or brass. Seems sweeter when you ping it.
jackcr2 2 years ago