Do you run into issues with the pore filler pulling out? What kind of binder does the dry wall compound have that that doesn't conflict with a Lacquer finish, but keeps it in the pores? Kind of a vague question I suppose, but I didn't hear anything about compatibility. I've been using a Mohawk pore filling product that takes 24 hours to dry/cure to then sand. I'm looking to save time, but don't want to risk pore filler pulling out under my Lacquer.
@danbombliss No, the pore filler stays in. You need to do a couple of sessions. There are no compatability issues with the dry wall compound as a filler.
@OBrienGuitars So if you were going to be spraying a Lacquer finish over this pore filler, do you immediately seal it with a Vinyl sealer right over top before continuing with the lacquer?
i know that people often use shellac to seal their guitars. french polish method where alcohol and pumice/rottenstone are used to pore fill. 4f pumice or rottenstone? also i do topcaots of behlens violin varnish and behkol solvent is used to thin it. Will this work on the shellac alone, as well?
I am still curious about the Transtint pore filler dye. As I see on line that it coats $19 for 2 oz(!) where did you buy it by the quart? Would black latex paint work as a drywall joint compound stain?
@cowdudeable The Transtint brand is concentrated and a little bit goes a very long way! The quart size was less concentrated and I got it at a finishing supply warehouse. Black later paint would also work but you would probably need more of it to get a true black. Don't forget to do test pieces first!
Hi there, this is two questions, have you ever had a problem with the black pore filler staining the white purfling lines once yoo have sealed them with the lacquer and thinner mix? also could I use a dark brown grain filler to stain/fill a light coloured and pourus mahogany neck?
@biggestclaptonfan Occasionally the white purfling line will get a bit dingy but just sand or scrape it and it is clean again. Yes, dark brown with work fine on mahogany.
Excellent, very helpful and interesting video :) I have one question as well; do you have any suggestions for pore filling woods such as spalted maple?
Im building an electric guitar, thats made of Maranti witch is a SUPER pourass wood and wanted to get it paint White, would this filling work for my guitar? Thank you :D
Thanks so much for the prompt reply. As always I'm barging impulsively into the task this afternoon – I'm sure the results will be mixed – but there's no other ways to learn I suppose... Oh yeah, the so-called easy way... never have been one for that method.
Tom, nice last name! haha I use universal tints, name brand Transtint. The dyeing the pore filler is a trick I actually learned from a piano finishing guy.
I'm building a guitar with the generous assistance of seasoned professional piano restorers. They've been letting me use their shop, and they've reserved a space for me where they can watch me screw up. My latest screwup concerned pore filling. After watching this video I thought I would try your method, but Ed, the skilled woodworker (think Geppetto) is concerned about what dyes to use on the joint compound. Could you be more specific about what dyes can be used? Thank you. Tom O'Brien
Quick question. my luthier left the rosewood back and sides with open pores... some of which have a white color. He then rubbed in some oil based wipe on poly. I want to pore fill it in and then do the wipe on poly again. Any reason not too?
@jinfuuu You could do that. Obviously you prefer the closed pore look. Give it a good sanding before the pore filling, The lightly sand again after the pore fill. Then go over it with your wipe on poly. Good luck.
The very end of the video is a great example of what you should see when you're French Polishing. He's really wetting the wood and doing long straight strokes and it's drying very quickly which is what you'd expect to see early on. As you get more build, you have to work with a dryer and dryer pad and work in circles or other overlapping patterns - but the concept is the same - you know you have your mix of elements and speed right if you see the trail "flashing off" behind the pad like that.
this may be answered in some of the other comments, but what do you use with the drywall mix to fill, say, sitka spruce? Thanks for you videos, you are awesome.
@OBrienGuitars One more quest. I have for my child a kit violin from stewmac, if I use shellac, can it be applied by brush other than the french polishing method? I welcome any advice on the violin. Also, I ordered KTM9 from LMI, is this basically, other that filler, all I need for finishing my guitar?
@kmh196700 Yes, you can brush, spray or pad shellac and get good results if done properly. KTM9 is a nice water base finish that when don eproperly will compare to a high gloss lacquer finish. May I suggest my finishing DVD? It will answer many of your questions and show you how to apply many types of finishes. It is available at LMI or apprenticepublishing . com
@kmh196700 An ounce of prevention goes along way here. The best thing is to not have dings but when it does happen you have to fill it. A fill is always a fill although you can develop this skill over time and make it pretty invisible. LMI has some fillers that match top colors fairly closely.
It doesn't color the wood as you sand it back and only leave it in the pores. You could lightly seal the surface first with shellac to help it sand off easier though.
I have never tried the brand name you referred to. The basic ingredients for water based pore fillers and drywall compounds/spackles are the same. It should work just fine but do some testing on some scrap.
Robbie, Have you ever tried Crawford's Spackling Paste for a pore filler? Having painted for 40 years, I don't like to sand too much either! It's been a staple for painter's for some time. Crawford's dries quick, sands fairly easy, doesn't shrink (like joint cmpd) & is very durable. It's also non-mercurial. In fact, you can almost sand it w/ your hand. I'm not sure how the tint would impact it, but I would think it would be moot!
There are many ways and products available for pore filling. This is just one way. One of the advantages of water based over oil based is the dry time. I can pore fill with this method and begin applying my topcoats of finish in a matter of just a few hours.
I use egg whites for sizing my spruce or cedar tops. I don't have a video on this yet but it is on the list.
Interesting but that looks like more work and sanding then I do with an oil based pore filler. At least when I learned how to do properly. But there's nothing wrong with more options. Thanks for sharing. Who knows maybe I'll give it try if I run out of the oil base filler. You have anything on using egg whites?
Do you run into issues with the pore filler pulling out? What kind of binder does the dry wall compound have that that doesn't conflict with a Lacquer finish, but keeps it in the pores? Kind of a vague question I suppose, but I didn't hear anything about compatibility. I've been using a Mohawk pore filling product that takes 24 hours to dry/cure to then sand. I'm looking to save time, but don't want to risk pore filler pulling out under my Lacquer.
-Thanks,
Dan
danbombliss 4 weeks ago
@danbombliss No, the pore filler stays in. You need to do a couple of sessions. There are no compatability issues with the dry wall compound as a filler.
OBrienGuitars 3 weeks ago
@OBrienGuitars So if you were going to be spraying a Lacquer finish over this pore filler, do you immediately seal it with a Vinyl sealer right over top before continuing with the lacquer?
Thanks
danbombliss 3 weeks ago
@danbombliss You can use a sealer if you want to and I usually do when using lacquer.
OBrienGuitars 3 weeks ago
i know that people often use shellac to seal their guitars. french polish method where alcohol and pumice/rottenstone are used to pore fill. 4f pumice or rottenstone? also i do topcaots of behlens violin varnish and behkol solvent is used to thin it. Will this work on the shellac alone, as well?
sirgreggins8824 2 months ago
@sirgreggins8824 I am not sure what is in their violin varnish solvent. I would use alcohol.
OBrienGuitars 2 months ago
@OBrienGuitars blonde shellac flakes, gum mastic and gum sandarac resins. will rottenstone work as well as pumice for this process
sirgreggins8824 2 months ago
@sirgreggins8824 I am unfamiliar with this process.
OBrienGuitars 2 months ago
I am still curious about the Transtint pore filler dye. As I see on line that it coats $19 for 2 oz(!) where did you buy it by the quart? Would black latex paint work as a drywall joint compound stain?
cowdudeable 3 months ago
@cowdudeable The Transtint brand is concentrated and a little bit goes a very long way! The quart size was less concentrated and I got it at a finishing supply warehouse. Black later paint would also work but you would probably need more of it to get a true black. Don't forget to do test pieces first!
OBrienGuitars 3 months ago
Hi there, this is two questions, have you ever had a problem with the black pore filler staining the white purfling lines once yoo have sealed them with the lacquer and thinner mix? also could I use a dark brown grain filler to stain/fill a light coloured and pourus mahogany neck?
Thank, Paul
biggestclaptonfan 5 months ago
@biggestclaptonfan Occasionally the white purfling line will get a bit dingy but just sand or scrape it and it is clean again. Yes, dark brown with work fine on mahogany.
OBrienGuitars 5 months ago
Excellent, very helpful and interesting video :) I have one question as well; do you have any suggestions for pore filling woods such as spalted maple?
themurkar 11 months ago
@themurkar Thanks, I would probably use shellac and sawdust or a clear pore filler on spalted maple.
OBrienGuitars 11 months ago
@OBrienGuitars ok - thank you, it is much appreciated :)
themurkar 10 months ago
Im building an electric guitar, thats made of Maranti witch is a SUPER pourass wood and wanted to get it paint White, would this filling work for my guitar? Thank you :D
ht448 1 year ago
@ht448 Yes this would work. Even bondo would work since you are going to paint it white.
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
Thanks so much for the prompt reply. As always I'm barging impulsively into the task this afternoon – I'm sure the results will be mixed – but there's no other ways to learn I suppose... Oh yeah, the so-called easy way... never have been one for that method.
My father's name was Robert
twob1961 1 year ago
Tom, nice last name! haha I use universal tints, name brand Transtint. The dyeing the pore filler is a trick I actually learned from a piano finishing guy.
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
I'm building a guitar with the generous assistance of seasoned professional piano restorers. They've been letting me use their shop, and they've reserved a space for me where they can watch me screw up. My latest screwup concerned pore filling. After watching this video I thought I would try your method, but Ed, the skilled woodworker (think Geppetto) is concerned about what dyes to use on the joint compound. Could you be more specific about what dyes can be used? Thank you. Tom O'Brien
twob1961 1 year ago
Quick question. my luthier left the rosewood back and sides with open pores... some of which have a white color. He then rubbed in some oil based wipe on poly. I want to pore fill it in and then do the wipe on poly again. Any reason not too?
jinfuuu 1 year ago
@jinfuuu You could do that. Obviously you prefer the closed pore look. Give it a good sanding before the pore filling, The lightly sand again after the pore fill. Then go over it with your wipe on poly. Good luck.
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
The very end of the video is a great example of what you should see when you're French Polishing. He's really wetting the wood and doing long straight strokes and it's drying very quickly which is what you'd expect to see early on. As you get more build, you have to work with a dryer and dryer pad and work in circles or other overlapping patterns - but the concept is the same - you know you have your mix of elements and speed right if you see the trail "flashing off" behind the pad like that.
rlholo 1 year ago
this may be answered in some of the other comments, but what do you use with the drywall mix to fill, say, sitka spruce? Thanks for you videos, you are awesome.
kmh196700 1 year ago
@kmh196700 Sitka spruce is a non porous wood so I don't fill it.
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
@OBrienGuitars So, if I have a small ding or mark, what could be used to fill without sanding a mm of wood?
kmh196700 1 year ago
@OBrienGuitars One more quest. I have for my child a kit violin from stewmac, if I use shellac, can it be applied by brush other than the french polishing method? I welcome any advice on the violin. Also, I ordered KTM9 from LMI, is this basically, other that filler, all I need for finishing my guitar?
kmh196700 1 year ago
@kmh196700 Yes, you can brush, spray or pad shellac and get good results if done properly. KTM9 is a nice water base finish that when don eproperly will compare to a high gloss lacquer finish. May I suggest my finishing DVD? It will answer many of your questions and show you how to apply many types of finishes. It is available at LMI or apprenticepublishing . com
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
@kmh196700 An ounce of prevention goes along way here. The best thing is to not have dings but when it does happen you have to fill it. A fill is always a fill although you can develop this skill over time and make it pretty invisible. LMI has some fillers that match top colors fairly closely.
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
Have you used Rustin's pore filler before? Good choice for filling Mahogany?
MrCptGonzo 1 year ago
@MrCptGonzo I am not familiar with this product. Basically any pore filler will work if you learn to work with it.
Good luck.
OBrienGuitars 1 year ago
It doesn't color the wood as you sand it back and only leave it in the pores. You could lightly seal the surface first with shellac to help it sand off easier though.
OBrienGuitars 2 years ago
Was wondering if the black dye colors the underlying rosewood or if you sealed the wood prior to pore filling?
WeepingZeeGuitars 2 years ago
I have never tried the brand name you referred to. The basic ingredients for water based pore fillers and drywall compounds/spackles are the same. It should work just fine but do some testing on some scrap.
OBrienGuitars 3 years ago
Robbie,
Once you've finish sanding do you clean the surface with anything?
Larry
newluthier 2 years ago
I just wipe the surface with a rag or use some compressed air.
OBrienGuitars 2 years ago
Robbie, Have you ever tried Crawford's Spackling Paste for a pore filler? Having painted for 40 years, I don't like to sand too much either! It's been a staple for painter's for some time. Crawford's dries quick, sands fairly easy, doesn't shrink (like joint cmpd) & is very durable. It's also non-mercurial. In fact, you can almost sand it w/ your hand. I'm not sure how the tint would impact it, but I would think it would be moot!
Rich915 3 years ago
There are many ways and products available for pore filling. This is just one way. One of the advantages of water based over oil based is the dry time. I can pore fill with this method and begin applying my topcoats of finish in a matter of just a few hours.
I use egg whites for sizing my spruce or cedar tops. I don't have a video on this yet but it is on the list.
OBrienGuitars 3 years ago
Interesting but that looks like more work and sanding then I do with an oil based pore filler. At least when I learned how to do properly. But there's nothing wrong with more options. Thanks for sharing. Who knows maybe I'll give it try if I run out of the oil base filler. You have anything on using egg whites?
chrispaulick 3 years ago
I am using a universal tint. This is a dye that is compatible with alcohol, solvent or water based products.
OBrienGuitars 3 years ago
Robbie, what are you using to color the drywall compound black? Is it black paint?
Papachulo57 3 years ago