Great video! Thank you for taking the time to go through everything, step-by-step! I recently received my gray cards and wasn't quite sure how to set the custom white balance, but now I'm able to obtain proper exposure and white balance.
Would you recommend purchasing a color checker table for accurate colors? I don't do much print work, but would like to prepared when I chose to do so.
No, you don't need a color checker table because you'll only use it once to create a custom camera profile in a RAW processing software. Those color checker tables are for softwares that cannot read your camera's profile. With an exception for Nikon Capture NX2, it's the only software that can read your Nikon camera's profile, resulting in very accurate colors.
Superb tutorials. I appreciate the time and energy it must take doing them.
Although I am a Canon man through and through most of the items you cover in your tutorials are applicable to photography in general and have taught me a lot.
When do you use those color cards with all the different colored squares in them? Do you have to first setup the gray card shot and then take another shot with the colored square card in order to really get your colors correct in post processing?
However, uhm, you do not need to do that. Simply use proper Picture Control setting (and adjustments) and white balance then process the RAW files in Nikon Capture NX2. The colors are already accurate.
Light meters only get exposure readings and that's it, unlike a gray card that could do a lot more. Light meters are battery-dependant, takes more time setting up for just one exposure reading test, takes up more space, rotating ambient sensor head is very fragile, etc. Not to mention, your camera already have one built-in and with help of gray card, it does the job.
@Lilkiwiguy87 Hi. I have Weston Master light meter that does not have any batteries in it. It is very robust and accurate. It is more sensitive to colours than most camera meters. It comes with an invercone which clips on to the read the light falling on the subject. Despite the convenience of a built in meter I would always use it to read a colour subject.
@mjberrry Also, in a situation where a subject is wearing black and is infront of a black backdrop, the reflective light meter on your camera will think the photo is going to be underexposed and will adjust accordingly to try and make it exposed. However, the image will come out over exposed.
It's the same deal if theres a lot of white in a picture, the camera will think its going to overexpose so it tells you to underexpose.
The grey card allows the camera a fine line to proper exposer.. 18%
Guys, thanks for this vlog. The gray card is something I continually ignore or just plain forget to take with me when I go out shooting. I'm going to make a habit of keeping one with me!!!
I am glad you made a video about this - balance is difficult for me to do manually. I tried the eyedropper tool in levels of a model holding a gray card in the first frame - the results were horrid, and I had to adjust them manually. I wonder what I did wrong, and haven't tried since. Does the card have to be out of focus? If using strobes, what angle should be used? - I had her hold it flat to the camera. It was a Kodak paper card and its values were quite variable...
Are you speaking of Kodak R-27 Gray Card? We tried it out and, yes, it's awful product. R-27's gray paper peels off easily, fades in hot sun, and discolors in hot temperatures or made contact with water. That is why we recommend WhiBal, no problem with their products.
It is not necessary to get the Gray Card in focus, if you prefer, feel free to get the card in focus.
With a flash / monolight, point the front of Gray Card towards the flash / monolight to get the reflection then fire away.
@Lilkiwiguy87 Why are you using a grey card for colour balance. Grey cards are usually 50% gray and are for exposure only. White is the choice for colour balance. By holding a white sheet of paper/card in front of the subject and facing the light you set white balance with that. White reflects most of the light and grey absorbs at least half.
You could use white and gray for custom white balance. White is more difficult for custom white balance because most of the time white is not white (i.e. slightly warm or cool temperature and/or magenta or green tint). Non-homemade gray cards are easier to work with because it is solid gray without any temperature shifting and/or color tinting. Gray cards are all 18%.
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to go through everything, step-by-step! I recently received my gray cards and wasn't quite sure how to set the custom white balance, but now I'm able to obtain proper exposure and white balance.
Would you recommend purchasing a color checker table for accurate colors? I don't do much print work, but would like to prepared when I chose to do so.
haavoc2007 1 month ago
No, you don't need a color checker table because you'll only use it once to create a custom camera profile in a RAW processing software. Those color checker tables are for softwares that cannot read your camera's profile. With an exception for Nikon Capture NX2, it's the only software that can read your Nikon camera's profile, resulting in very accurate colors.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 month ago
with what white balance should you take photo from a gray card?
khashy87 3 months ago
@khashy87 why are you wasting my time? your answer is in the video.
superkiwizorro 3 months ago
Superb tutorials. I appreciate the time and energy it must take doing them.
Although I am a Canon man through and through most of the items you cover in your tutorials are applicable to photography in general and have taught me a lot.
Many thanks and much appreciation.
Huey1H 3 months ago
WhiBal. A WhiBal Reference Card is used in this video.
Lilkiwiguy87 5 months ago
Can i also use Lightroom's custom white balance dropper for this one?
g0th 7 months ago
Yep, works with the white balance dropper tool on any other software.
Lilkiwiguy87 7 months ago
@Lilkiwiguy87
Cool!
Thanks for the quick response! =]
g0th 7 months ago
When do you use those color cards with all the different colored squares in them? Do you have to first setup the gray card shot and then take another shot with the colored square card in order to really get your colors correct in post processing?
The Meltdownman
meltdownman1 1 year ago
Correct.
However, uhm, you do not need to do that. Simply use proper Picture Control setting (and adjustments) and white balance then process the RAW files in Nikon Capture NX2. The colors are already accurate.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
Great video, thanks.
What's the difference or pros/cons between using a grey card for exposure, and an incident light meter, apart from the obvious price difference?!
I use a grey card quite frequently, but have thought about getting a light meter.
mjberrry 1 year ago
Light meters only get exposure readings and that's it, unlike a gray card that could do a lot more. Light meters are battery-dependant, takes more time setting up for just one exposure reading test, takes up more space, rotating ambient sensor head is very fragile, etc. Not to mention, your camera already have one built-in and with help of gray card, it does the job.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87 Hi. I have Weston Master light meter that does not have any batteries in it. It is very robust and accurate. It is more sensitive to colours than most camera meters. It comes with an invercone which clips on to the read the light falling on the subject. Despite the convenience of a built in meter I would always use it to read a colour subject.
JimTBell 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87 just want to say thanks for the info..
RMO6701 1 year ago
@mjberrry Also, in a situation where a subject is wearing black and is infront of a black backdrop, the reflective light meter on your camera will think the photo is going to be underexposed and will adjust accordingly to try and make it exposed. However, the image will come out over exposed.
It's the same deal if theres a lot of white in a picture, the camera will think its going to overexpose so it tells you to underexpose.
The grey card allows the camera a fine line to proper exposer.. 18%
Nitrous9989 1 year ago
Guys, thanks for this vlog. The gray card is something I continually ignore or just plain forget to take with me when I go out shooting. I'm going to make a habit of keeping one with me!!!
joey75220 1 year ago
very informative. i really appreciate this.
mefilmmaking 1 year ago
I am glad you made a video about this - balance is difficult for me to do manually. I tried the eyedropper tool in levels of a model holding a gray card in the first frame - the results were horrid, and I had to adjust them manually. I wonder what I did wrong, and haven't tried since. Does the card have to be out of focus? If using strobes, what angle should be used? - I had her hold it flat to the camera. It was a Kodak paper card and its values were quite variable...
noslen1968 1 year ago
Are you speaking of Kodak R-27 Gray Card? We tried it out and, yes, it's awful product. R-27's gray paper peels off easily, fades in hot sun, and discolors in hot temperatures or made contact with water. That is why we recommend WhiBal, no problem with their products.
It is not necessary to get the Gray Card in focus, if you prefer, feel free to get the card in focus.
With a flash / monolight, point the front of Gray Card towards the flash / monolight to get the reflection then fire away.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago
@Lilkiwiguy87 Why are you using a grey card for colour balance. Grey cards are usually 50% gray and are for exposure only. White is the choice for colour balance. By holding a white sheet of paper/card in front of the subject and facing the light you set white balance with that. White reflects most of the light and grey absorbs at least half.
JimTBell 1 year ago
You could use white and gray for custom white balance. White is more difficult for custom white balance because most of the time white is not white (i.e. slightly warm or cool temperature and/or magenta or green tint). Non-homemade gray cards are easier to work with because it is solid gray without any temperature shifting and/or color tinting. Gray cards are all 18%.
Lilkiwiguy87 1 year ago