i bet this guy will never lead a climb without putting more protection on to a climb before moving to the next hieght of any root be safe on the rock dont try to climb to impress your mates it will kill you in the end
having been climbing for three decades, most of it leads on granite much like that crack, I can tell you that guy was crazy for not putting in pro while he had the chance. You can run out climbs like he did, higher up without the risk of decking.
1. Its important to place protection immediately above a ledge (preferably multiple pieces) to prevent hitting it, just like starting from the ground. Instead he "ran it out" and did hit the ledge on the way down.
2. He had the rope between his legs... it hooked behind his heel and turned him upside down. Its often better to keep the rope to one side away from the direction you are likely to fall.
As many of the commentators already said, a mistake was made. Though, hasn't every climber made these kinds of avoidable mess ups at sometime. I know no one who hasn't. Hence, keep on climbing and posting!
When you're watching some of the more accomplished climbers you have to remember that, while it looks and is daring, they take every precaution imaginable. They scout the route, wear helmets and work with people they trust. Above all, they don't make rookie mistakes like these guys that can get you killed or paralyzed.
Layback technique was bad (too far from wall). Despite the leading belay, which I fully understand the techniques of keeping some slack out, there was way too much slack. For some odd reason, climbers generally just don't like to wear a helmet, which I think is really stupid. I've seen three times where if a person had been wearing a helmet, things would have been different for them and two of them are never climbing again - primarily due to loose rock and not the climber or belayers techniques
totally agree with most of the comments here regarding gear placement. The leader may have been climbing a route "within his ability" but leading is more than just making the technical moves ... you have to protect the pitch as well ... something this climber, for what ever reason didn't do very well. All that aside, his layback techniques clearly needs work. I don't know this climb personally but I can tell by his foot placements and that he didn't feel too secure on that lead. Poor example.
he could have put pro all kinds of places instead of running out 10 feet of line and taking that high factor fall. i'm sorry that he got hurt, but this is by no means normal. lesson learned i guess. pro is there fora reason.
ok correct me if im wrong please...i know in weightlifting that you have spotter in case you cant lift the weight or lift any longer.....i dont know what you call that person in rock climbing but they use their weight right??? its tied around them so im guessing he had alot of slack wich caught him like halfways down?? thats why he fell that far??
@jacob28071 Yes, there was a lot of "slack" that allowed him to fall that far. But it's not quite that simple. When you're lead climbing, you will fall twice as far (plus 10-15%) as the distance between you and the last "clip". So he was about 15-20 feet above his last clip (way too far), so he fell between 35-50 feet before the rope could even stop him. Plus that last "clip" came out of the wall, so that didn't help him at all.
@jacob28071 this vid quality is a bit crap, but he was climbing a a crack(pretty open from the video) and sometimes there aren't that many places along the route one can place cams(anchors).... btw spotter for weightlifting would be a belayer for big wall climbing, spotter could also be used if your bouldering(short wall no ropes but pads)
hmm shouldnt the person with the end of the rope caught him earlier or should have had a tighter grip??? i dont know anything bout rock climbing thats why im asking i dont want to assume anything
Great climb up to that point. He really should have placed the pro instead of powering through. Glad he didn't hit the deck though :] Why wasn't he wearing a helmet?
That much of a run-out is sketchy no matter how good a climber you are. especially where his last piece of pro was placed. The description says that this was well withing his climbing abilities. I bet he would run-out that much on a 9.9 again!
Evaluation - No helmet !! - jeans - on that size climb your cams or stoppers are too far spread- no chalk or gloves - Luckily no seriouse injuries but most experice climbers would say it was his own fault . Also in the discription you have the ordasity to say ' ironicaly on a sigle pitch' nothing at all wrong with a single pitch its very effective , This mistake was the guys own fail and not climbing properly and not using good methods,
@childhorus The horn of the rock was sloped too much to serve as a catch. But there was a piece of pro just below it, which held and saved him from the deck.
i dont know anything about climbing, so this may sound like a dumb statement but to me having your arms and legs that close to each other forces you away from the rock face right, or is this common for climbing.
no helmet, ass poked out constantly from the wall, he throws his leg up in the beginning like he's doing Tae kwon do, all signs of lack of proper training and forgetting "safety first".
I think that's a bit harsh bro. I'd say that on that pitch he did lack a full rack of experience on the sharp end though. I'm just glad he didn't crater hard. And I'd be willing to bet that he has now re vamped his ideas on what is an acceptable level of protection and what isn't. Ok! He fucked up BUT at least the guy had the NADZ to lead something that wasn't prepped with a fucking Bosh power drill. Climbing is after all partly about stepping outside of your comfort zone..
Hey folks! don't be dis-heartened by this video .. instead USE this to your advantage to learn what not do to so YOU don't make the same mistakes. Be safe people,
If the route was "...well within the lead climber's ability" he wouldn't have fallen.
Why a climber will fall: exceeding abilities, or a hold breaking.
Jeans are only a factor when you need to high step a move, apart form that, I climbed 5.12 in jeans routinely; they're great to have on overhanging climbs that included many knee-bars.
If I was climbing at my limit on a slab-like climb like this one, it would be insane of me to not wear a helmet.
I climb in Jeans all the time too. I do have them modified for five bucks with a cross gusset crotch like a Judo Gi. You know, Home made Chuck Norris kicking jeans. I climb at JTNP four or five times a week and I never wear short pants..ever! And I don't care how hot it gets because that rough ass quartz monzonite will hamburgerize unprotected legs with the slightest contact...Ouch!
This isn't an "accident," it's poor trad leading, and a prime example of it... doesn't matter that he was in jeans, if your comfy, fine. Doesn't matter that he wasn't with a helmet, it personal preference. If he was unsure, he should have got in a cam or two as he went, also as a piece of gear came out as he fell, he probably shouldn't have been on it, he should have stuck to bolt-clipping.
Several mistakes. Not putting more gear to keep from hitting the ledge. Doing a lie-back for that long of a distance, should have jammed the crack. Belayer left too much slack. No helmet, gear climbs you should always wear a helmet. Also he got one leg on the wrong side of the rope, he doesn't have much experience falling. Sometimes you have to practice falling to learn to stay on the correct side of the rope.
bahaha some poeple are so dumb, what type of clothing you wear makes no difference how you climb. A helmet can be the difference between "holy shit that was close," to "oh shit, call yosar." Place gear you wont regret it...
@teletubbieshateu when you need to make a big reach with your leg the type of clothing you wear does matter. jeans can restrict/limit the range of motion.
This is just stupid, it puts people off trad climbing... Why did you not just place more gear? and why your dumb friends started cheering you when you did not?. Hope it was worth braking bones over a worthless climb. you really look pro now.....
@peaker16 the reason prana makes jeans for climbing is because normal jeans have very little stretch in the fabric. they limit/restrict range of motion making large stretches difficult or impossible. i am one of the world's leading trad climbers, who are you?
@CriterionCoIIection Awesome can you show us a video proving that you are one of the world leading trad climbers with an intro addressing because i'm skeptical, Anyone can be anyone on the net,
I'm getting a little sick of people acting like the camera guy is partially responsible. For what? Not catching his friend during a 1 second free fall?
Personally, I thank the camera guy for not catching him. It was actually the camera guy that taught me something here: Don't do this shit unless you're a trained professional. If it hadn't been for the camera guy, I wouldn't have been able to witness the mistakes of others.
came off a 15 foot latter once, put a crater in my right side talus. talus damage does suck. the real bummer is that i cant even tell a good climbing story about it
He appears to have hit the ledge about halfway...and that's where his last piece of pro was? Dumb, dumb, dumb. Treat a ledge as the ground...don't hit those.
A least be off the deck a ways before you run it out 15 feet Gumby. Lol. I hate to say it but that's what happens when inexperienced gym climbers go to the valley unsupervised.
Not being a pro, but having some experience in up to diff 6. I must say that: Keeping the body close to the wall is a must, that was his biggest error. 1:01 until the end he kept the body weight way too much out. Just makes it harder to hold on.
I don't understand why he was so run-out on a 5.9 crack...but glad he is ok. Hopefully he is still climbing! Great learning experience there...going to remember that for the rest of his life...
Yeah, It wouldn't have been a big deal if he had just cleared the rope. The rope needed to be draped over his left leg once he gained the lay-back. Both his feet are out to his right and his rope is still between his legs. A mistake he is not likely to make again. I learned what happens when you let your legs get in between your harness and your pro the hard way as well.
Looks like his last peice of pro got ripped out as he was falling, but it doesn't really matter cause he already impacted before that happened. Sorry about your ankle man, next time climb smarter not harder. The pro is your friend if you have it use it.
He put in no gear - yes it is a trad climb, he's walking up a crack. If the fool would have protected the upper moves he wouldn't have fallen ten feet. That was freaking horrible to watch - I knew he was getting ready to fly ... I just led a 5.9+ in NC over Labor Day and was looking at a 60' fall from near the top. Nothing I could do about it, except NOT fall !!!!!
When he started dancing at the top he was gripped and wishing like hell he knew how to put in some good pro.
I guess I'm a chicken because I'd have put in two cams and equalized them about two body lengths below the crux. This is the kind of fool that will mess it up for everyone.
Ranger Rick: "I'm sorry sir you lead card says that you have access to climbs that are rated III 5.10a and below. If you would like to take an exam for higher rated climbs that will be $294.37..cash!
you say that the climb is "well within the climbers ability" and yet he is fifteen feet above his nearest protection point. I doubt any real alpinists would agree with your assesment of his abilities. I am glad he has the opportunity to learn from this mistake.
@recoveredperv Your comment is exactly what I thought. I'm not a climber, but my roomate in college was, and I went with him often, I would hold the rope and belay. Like u said, the desription says this 5.9 is well within the climbers ability. If I remember a 5.9 is pretty damn hard, this climber doesn't not look like he is nearly skilled or prepared for it.
I've worked in YOSAR (Yosemite Search and Rescue). Climbing in jeans is fine... climbing without a helmet, well, I'm supposed to say you need one, but I often climb without one.
His big mistake was running out a climb when he had options for gear, unless he had nothing that would fit. But that would be dumb since you can see the entire climb from the ground, so bring what you need.
Glad he wasn't too badly hurt... could have been a lot worse.
bishops terrace? Good attempt. trad climbers all know that the runout is sometimes necessary. We accept the possibility of injury. sometimes but rarely even death. I did it the same way but found a horizontal #1 metollious tcu right before the fall. still man you got the rocks just get a little more brains on the gear.
How could not wearing jeans have done anything? I am a complete newbie but I thing I did notice is that he did not place a hold for quite a distance, did he run out? Was this a trad climb? Makes me not want to lead on a unbolted climb.
@TheGnarfield the run out was a mistake, which many people have commented here. Trad is fine, and the gear is great. You just have to understand what you're doing, and how to use the equipment you have. Learn to lead Sport routes first (i.e. in a gym), then have an experienced climber teach you how to lead Trad. That's the lesson to take away from this video.
@maverick1166 yep. i saw it before it happend when he wasnt pluggin anymore gear. poor guy. i know how that feels to take a bad fall and brake a bone(from bouldering though)
they make these awesome spring thingys nowadays. They come in all sizes and colors, from huge to tiny little ones. I've seen people put them in cracks before, I don't know if they would have worked on that rock though. I heard you don't fall as far when you put the shiny things in the rock... maybe that would have helped??? I dunno...
i hate to say it but this was his own fault. first and foremost, where was the helmet. second you should have put in more protection, more than the single piece you put in half way up. third you should have picked something better than jeans to wear, although they may have helped to stop a few abbrasions.
Arms bent all the way through, legs too high, uncoordinated moves, no pro for about 10 feet... no helmet... Dude, you don't lead unless you have pretty good technique. If you don't, just belay a leader, WATCH AND LEARN, and try to climb it right while seconding. It's safer, you learn from it, and when you do start leading, you don't get brained due to lack of experience. If you keep your arms bent like that for long periods you'll just get pumped uselessly. And while leading that's dangerous
rope out equals +fall, distance, sew it up. place gear that's what it's for. at least you can climb another day if you learn, right on scotty365365. wear protection for your head it's the only one one you have and brains take a shit long time to heal. learn from an "old"climber,at least they have suvived their mistakes.
@TheWhiteSpiderUK I climb in jeans all the time and have no problem I would agree a helmet is a good idea but they actually will do more for you to protect from falling rocks not so much hard impacts from falling.
@TheWhiteSpiderUK I climb in jeans all the time and seen no issue at all with it. If I'm going to be climbing at my limit I'll toss on my Pranas but I have friends that lead 13s in jeans.
Thanks for the video. Old time climber here, 30+yrs. Taken a few forty footers over the years and always walked away. Learned to climb before top roping or helmets became poplar. Still don't climb with a helmet and prefer leading to TR. I protect often around the ground, ledges or open books/roofs you can swing into. Sew it up after ledges. "Rookie mistake" Good to see you didn't stop climbing.
Best advice I ever had was - "never take a fall on gear". Dont just take your brain out and go for it unless your willing to take the consequences. Gear, unless its bomb-proof, is just back-up, everyone knows gear rips out all the time.
Actually, I;d say learning to fall onto gear is fundamental to climbing to your potential. Any gear you place (or lack of it) should be risk assessed and subsequent actions based on that.
climbing above your level is not good. Thats why he wasnt placing pro. If you are going slow---place pro-- or back off. obviously havent seen many accidents or you would have headgear
So he flipped upside down at the ledge and not because the rope caught under his leg? Sometimes leading with the rope between your legs will flip you over if your leg catches it, particularly if you are off to the side of your pro.
Glad it wasn't worse. I've off with a climbing injury myself
There is that moment before it hurts when your brain says.This is going to hurt.and that seems like the longest moment in your life. No helmets??? I dont get that
For the majority of recreational climbers, lugging up, let alone placing all the cams, nuts, widgets every "x" feet is a drag. Top rope your climbs and avoid all the drama. To see a climber rely on a tiny stopper placed in a crack, then watch them fall and experience the "zipper" effect..blows. More fun to concentrate on climbing rather than gear placement.
If you want to concentrate on the climb and not worry about your placment than lead sport routes. Top roping is poor form no matter where you are and leads to people trying routes far beyond their ability. This polishs the route for everyone else. If you can't lead it don't top rope it.
Ha...so much anyone could say about this video. Perfect for a climbing instructor that would like to show improper technique and lack of pro! Shouldn't wear jeans, Stop over extending, and for god sake put on a helmet and get some pro in the wall! I don't care how good you think you are...never go out this far without placing pro! All it takes is one slip. A guy climbing El Cap this year slipped and 5 pieces of pro came out of the wall out of 6! You can never place too much pro!
i bet this guy will never lead a climb without putting more protection on to a climb before moving to the next hieght of any root be safe on the rock dont try to climb to impress your mates it will kill you in the end
madscotsman65 1 week ago
Looks like you could have gotten more gear dude.
ih8tusernam3s 3 weeks ago
having been climbing for three decades, most of it leads on granite much like that crack, I can tell you that guy was crazy for not putting in pro while he had the chance. You can run out climbs like he did, higher up without the risk of decking.
Oceansiders 1 month ago
He made 2 mistakes that made the fall worse.
1. Its important to place protection immediately above a ledge (preferably multiple pieces) to prevent hitting it, just like starting from the ground. Instead he "ran it out" and did hit the ledge on the way down.
2. He had the rope between his legs... it hooked behind his heel and turned him upside down. Its often better to keep the rope to one side away from the direction you are likely to fall.
Hopefully, others will learn by watching this.
MrScooterbt 1 month ago
Scary stuff. Lead climber common error. Keep climbing, be safe and wear a helmet.
Ally737100 2 months ago
As many of the commentators already said, a mistake was made. Though, hasn't every climber made these kinds of avoidable mess ups at sometime. I know no one who hasn't. Hence, keep on climbing and posting!
BeijingisBeijing 2 months ago
When you're watching some of the more accomplished climbers you have to remember that, while it looks and is daring, they take every precaution imaginable. They scout the route, wear helmets and work with people they trust. Above all, they don't make rookie mistakes like these guys that can get you killed or paralyzed.
libville 2 months ago
@libville - you will not see the best climbers wear helmets, except on long crowded routes where kooks drop gear and rocks
Oceansiders 1 month ago
all this rope bull shit. hurts u more clime with out safty think about climing not falling
KLONIME1001 3 months ago
Layback technique was bad (too far from wall). Despite the leading belay, which I fully understand the techniques of keeping some slack out, there was way too much slack. For some odd reason, climbers generally just don't like to wear a helmet, which I think is really stupid. I've seen three times where if a person had been wearing a helmet, things would have been different for them and two of them are never climbing again - primarily due to loose rock and not the climber or belayers techniques
markopolo669 3 months ago
Placing pro where it makes good sense, makes good sense!
arklat 4 months ago
YES!! Awesome video. "undo my shoe please, now!." Haha, what a tool.
surfbum5412 4 months ago
totally agree with most of the comments here regarding gear placement. The leader may have been climbing a route "within his ability" but leading is more than just making the technical moves ... you have to protect the pitch as well ... something this climber, for what ever reason didn't do very well. All that aside, his layback techniques clearly needs work. I don't know this climb personally but I can tell by his foot placements and that he didn't feel too secure on that lead. Poor example.
aeropilot 4 months ago
No helmet?
Wavewolfaroha 4 months ago
@Wavewolfaroha Doesn't look like it ...
maverick1166 4 months ago
You're very lucky you have the opportunity to right your wrongs on a climb like this again. Intense fall.
mykylc 4 months ago
he could have put pro all kinds of places instead of running out 10 feet of line and taking that high factor fall. i'm sorry that he got hurt, but this is by no means normal. lesson learned i guess. pro is there fora reason.
adtastic 5 months ago
ok correct me if im wrong please...i know in weightlifting that you have spotter in case you cant lift the weight or lift any longer.....i dont know what you call that person in rock climbing but they use their weight right??? its tied around them so im guessing he had alot of slack wich caught him like halfways down?? thats why he fell that far??
jacob28071 5 months ago
@jacob28071 Yes, there was a lot of "slack" that allowed him to fall that far. But it's not quite that simple. When you're lead climbing, you will fall twice as far (plus 10-15%) as the distance between you and the last "clip". So he was about 15-20 feet above his last clip (way too far), so he fell between 35-50 feet before the rope could even stop him. Plus that last "clip" came out of the wall, so that didn't help him at all.
maverick1166 5 months ago
@maverick1166 wow ok ya i give you guys props not alot of people would do what you guys do most are scared of heights or afraid of falling
jacob28071 5 months ago
@jacob28071 Serious mistakes were made here, no doubt. But this video serves as an example of what might happen when you don't follow the guidelines.
maverick1166 5 months ago
@jacob28071 this vid quality is a bit crap, but he was climbing a a crack(pretty open from the video) and sometimes there aren't that many places along the route one can place cams(anchors).... btw spotter for weightlifting would be a belayer for big wall climbing, spotter could also be used if your bouldering(short wall no ropes but pads)
ishotthepuppy 1 month ago
hmm shouldnt the person with the end of the rope caught him earlier or should have had a tighter grip??? i dont know anything bout rock climbing thats why im asking i dont want to assume anything
jacob28071 5 months ago
That seriously had to hurt.
jabg2011 5 months ago
Brave people
mikehanoo33 5 months ago
This is why you don't rock climb....
Haliotro 5 months ago
" The route is a 5.9+, well within the lead climber's ability."
The route is a Yosemite Valley 5.9+ , just out of the lead climber's ability.
ghowland88 5 months ago
1:34 YIPP
DjKagomeKagomeDojon 5 months ago
Heyyy I saw this one on When Vacations Attack o.o But still. Be careful people please when your rock climbing like this!
RosesNightengales 5 months ago
When you're done with this one try free diving with Great Whites! Thats another fun sport.
ArizonaMMJ 6 months ago
Why didn't he place pro?? That was an unnecessary runout with a crack that looks easily protectable.
rasperas 6 months ago
Great climb up to that point. He really should have placed the pro instead of powering through. Glad he didn't hit the deck though :] Why wasn't he wearing a helmet?
Spericksen 6 months ago
LMAO. I love the noise he makes when he falls
jimbob1234567 6 months ago
love how the guy videotaping goes "ohhhh shit"... very comforting :D
Applesandfries 6 months ago
That much of a run-out is sketchy no matter how good a climber you are. especially where his last piece of pro was placed. The description says that this was well withing his climbing abilities. I bet he would run-out that much on a 9.9 again!
scuddy10195 6 months ago
Evaluation - No helmet !! - jeans - on that size climb your cams or stoppers are too far spread- no chalk or gloves - Luckily no seriouse injuries but most experice climbers would say it was his own fault . Also in the discription you have the ordasity to say ' ironicaly on a sigle pitch' nothing at all wrong with a single pitch its very effective , This mistake was the guys own fail and not climbing properly and not using good methods,
TheRedline161 7 months ago
Why is he not wearing a helmet?
northaunt 7 months ago
Thought they chains at 1:54 where his insides..
MageAtYou 7 months ago
Did the bruising come from the harness or an impact in the fall? Hope he's okay now.
Pumfkyn 7 months ago
@Pumfkyn We think the bruising was from the impact against the rock.
maverick1166 7 months ago
It looks like that horn that he smashed his foot on acted like a piece of pro for the rope after the piece above it blew. Any comments?
childhorus 7 months ago
@childhorus The horn of the rock was sloped too much to serve as a catch. But there was a piece of pro just below it, which held and saved him from the deck.
maverick1166 7 months ago
@maverick1166
Yes, I see now. thanks.
childhorus 7 months ago
i dont know anything about climbing, so this may sound like a dumb statement but to me having your arms and legs that close to each other forces you away from the rock face right, or is this common for climbing.
ramrodvs 7 months ago
co za debil a gdzie kask? gdzie punkt?
TheSZZy 7 months ago
I saw he had friends! Why didn't he put one?
toutoutou91 7 months ago
What'd you expect... I have hobbies that won't kill me.
waqqashanafi 7 months ago
when you know you fell you have to jump for sure... and there are so low climbing accidents instead of other sports..
ailig0001 7 months ago
Wow, I'm just glad he was ok and lives to climb another day; keep reachin bro!
poeticmelodies 7 months ago
Trad Climbing --> Helmet please!!
Towamba 8 months ago
lay him down lay him down lay him down lay him down lay him down lay him down lay him down lay him down
that's 8 times did you understand what I said? No, undo this shoe please NOW!!
FLATblacktical 8 months ago
I think I broke a foot AGAIN... wow He clearly doesn't learn from his mistakes.
kanimate 8 months ago
@kanimate The first broken foot was an injury from another sport the year before.
maverick1166 8 months ago
@maverick1166 Ahhhh, makes sense now! =D how unlucky...
kanimate 7 months ago
no helmet, ass poked out constantly from the wall, he throws his leg up in the beginning like he's doing Tae kwon do, all signs of lack of proper training and forgetting "safety first".
NeverSubmitBand 8 months ago
hes got a rack, but lacking brains.
utubesuxb4lls 8 months ago
@utubesuxb4lls he also has balls which comes with the lack of brains part i suppose
ogdemigod 8 months ago
@utubesuxb4lls
I think that's a bit harsh bro. I'd say that on that pitch he did lack a full rack of experience on the sharp end though. I'm just glad he didn't crater hard. And I'd be willing to bet that he has now re vamped his ideas on what is an acceptable level of protection and what isn't. Ok! He fucked up BUT at least the guy had the NADZ to lead something that wasn't prepped with a fucking Bosh power drill. Climbing is after all partly about stepping outside of your comfort zone..
1138thz 8 months ago 2
Hey folks! don't be dis-heartened by this video .. instead USE this to your advantage to learn what not do to so YOU don't make the same mistakes. Be safe people,
pdrums777 9 months ago 9
He needed a piece or two at :34. He had good feet there. Why the runout?
coopercolt 9 months ago
If the route was "...well within the lead climber's ability" he wouldn't have fallen.
Why a climber will fall: exceeding abilities, or a hold breaking.
Jeans are only a factor when you need to high step a move, apart form that, I climbed 5.12 in jeans routinely; they're great to have on overhanging climbs that included many knee-bars.
If I was climbing at my limit on a slab-like climb like this one, it would be insane of me to not wear a helmet.
fernando5821 9 months ago
@fernando5821
I climb in Jeans all the time too. I do have them modified for five bucks with a cross gusset crotch like a Judo Gi. You know, Home made Chuck Norris kicking jeans. I climb at JTNP four or five times a week and I never wear short pants..ever! And I don't care how hot it gets because that rough ass quartz monzonite will hamburgerize unprotected legs with the slightest contact...Ouch!
1138thz 8 months ago
This isn't an "accident," it's poor trad leading, and a prime example of it... doesn't matter that he was in jeans, if your comfy, fine. Doesn't matter that he wasn't with a helmet, it personal preference. If he was unsure, he should have got in a cam or two as he went, also as a piece of gear came out as he fell, he probably shouldn't have been on it, he should have stuck to bolt-clipping.
Amateur.
llyws 10 months ago
I'm old, an old trad climber who is too old to go to a 5.9 + crack lead so good on ya for that.
Jeans - who cares - helmet - eh' - makes sense and 50% of the time I woulda had one but depended on mood.
Whats the trad saying "when in doubt, run it out" - IT WOULD BE GREAT TO PUT PRO IN BUT AT TIMES YOU CAN'T.
Try Epinepherine and the chimneys' 40 - 50 ft runouts every other pitch it seemed like.
Any hoo - glad you are ok. Its a risky ass sport.
KelpStalker 10 months ago 3
@KelpStalker
You're right, that is the old saying, but that crack really did look worthy of some pro.
childhorus 7 months ago
Several mistakes. Not putting more gear to keep from hitting the ledge. Doing a lie-back for that long of a distance, should have jammed the crack. Belayer left too much slack. No helmet, gear climbs you should always wear a helmet. Also he got one leg on the wrong side of the rope, he doesn't have much experience falling. Sometimes you have to practice falling to learn to stay on the correct side of the rope.
gt40f 11 months ago
bahaha some poeple are so dumb, what type of clothing you wear makes no difference how you climb. A helmet can be the difference between "holy shit that was close," to "oh shit, call yosar." Place gear you wont regret it...
teletubbieshateu 11 months ago 2
@teletubbieshateu when you need to make a big reach with your leg the type of clothing you wear does matter. jeans can restrict/limit the range of motion.
CriterionCoIIection 10 months ago
Lay him down! Grab the other rope!
BaneTurkey 11 months ago
This is just stupid, it puts people off trad climbing... Why did you not just place more gear? and why your dumb friends started cheering you when you did not?. Hope it was worth braking bones over a worthless climb. you really look pro now.....
ceebo100 11 months ago 3
A lot of major mistakes here. This accident was avoidable.
AlSwearengen15 11 months ago 18
@AlSwearengen15 agreed, if he simply placed an extra piece of protection near the top, he would have been fine! A helmet wouldn't have hurt either...
aslanbc 2 months ago
lol everyone bitching about you climbing in jeans haha, loads of people climb in jeans, infact prana make some jeans especially for climbing, newbs
peaker16 11 months ago 2
@peaker16 the reason prana makes jeans for climbing is because normal jeans have very little stretch in the fabric. they limit/restrict range of motion making large stretches difficult or impossible. i am one of the world's leading trad climbers, who are you?
CriterionCoIIection 10 months ago
@CriterionCoIIection Awesome can you show us a video proving that you are one of the world leading trad climbers with an intro addressing because i'm skeptical, Anyone can be anyone on the net,
CzarThePlezer 9 months ago
I'm getting a little sick of people acting like the camera guy is partially responsible. For what? Not catching his friend during a 1 second free fall?
Personally, I thank the camera guy for not catching him. It was actually the camera guy that taught me something here: Don't do this shit unless you're a trained professional. If it hadn't been for the camera guy, I wouldn't have been able to witness the mistakes of others.
itcanbecheezcaketime 11 months ago
wat a dope!no helmet!and the resson he fell so far was due to bad gear placement!y didnt he buddy tell him to place more gear!
postmanpat7 11 months ago 2
came off a 15 foot latter once, put a crater in my right side talus. talus damage does suck. the real bummer is that i cant even tell a good climbing story about it
tarmbruster1 11 months ago
I also noticed the belayer allowed too much slackline making the fall much worse.
Robert5185 1 year ago
He appears to have hit the ledge about halfway...and that's where his last piece of pro was? Dumb, dumb, dumb. Treat a ledge as the ground...don't hit those.
tisakson 1 year ago
Leave it to the best of friends to film you while you could gave died. Total friend of the year awars
MrSmoothtrooper 1 year ago
The people yelling "you got it" should have been yelling "Stop and put in pro!".
On a side note.. that sure looks like a hand jam or two would have made things easier.
corporatehippy 1 year ago
terrible technique
STAND UP AND CHILL ON SLABS, DONT CLIMB THEM LIKE THEY ARE ROOFS AS SHOWN
realcampusman 1 year ago
A least be off the deck a ways before you run it out 15 feet Gumby. Lol. I hate to say it but that's what happens when inexperienced gym climbers go to the valley unsupervised.
jutah2 1 year ago 2
Not being a pro, but having some experience in up to diff 6. I must say that: Keeping the body close to the wall is a must, that was his biggest error. 1:01 until the end he kept the body weight way too much out. Just makes it harder to hold on.
Mp57navy 1 year ago
At least 2 solid pieces between you and groundfall. That's all there is to it.
bcpom 1 year ago
place mo gear .I get razzed for over placeing some times thats why i bought it and it sparkels in the sun safe climbing
1bigrooster 1 year ago
lol place gear!!! avoid the broken bones
oacr0x 1 year ago
ohh crap!! he blew out 2 cams!!! f that..make sure your placments are bomber..scary
emartinesco 1 year ago
Goddamn bro place some gear. its why you spent 3 grand on a rack
trentandjordan 1 year ago
my hands are sweating just watching this....
freshfreshlemon 1 year ago
I don't understand why he was so run-out on a 5.9 crack...but glad he is ok. Hopefully he is still climbing! Great learning experience there...going to remember that for the rest of his life...
ltj999 1 year ago
Wow. Wrong equipment and maybe carelessness.1:32 - A little mistake... But what happenend to him, finally?
chriswchannel 1 year ago
way big steps...i thing.....
CARVETECH4 1 year ago
bossy prick @ the end...
SymAmineC8H11N 1 year ago
and the helmet?? that´s ...... all climbers knows.
diegocolomes 1 year ago
Yeah, It wouldn't have been a big deal if he had just cleared the rope. The rope needed to be draped over his left leg once he gained the lay-back. Both his feet are out to his right and his rope is still between his legs. A mistake he is not likely to make again. I learned what happens when you let your legs get in between your harness and your pro the hard way as well.
greaterthany 1 year ago
i dont get that, how did he end up upside down?
TheElsha 1 year ago
@TheElsha looks like his feet hit the rock protruding out and then flew backwards and upside down
daniii37 1 year ago
the other thing is insurance!
theres no way standard ins will cover this stuff,
what If you need air lift or rescue, + treatment + time off work
all costs big money
this guy has obviousily broken his foot or ankle or both
all these injuries that look minor will cost a fortune and will pain you for the rest of your life
Crazy
thecomanche1 1 year ago
"Good decisions come from experience...experience comes from bad decisions"
mywhalefartssmellbad 1 year ago
@mywhalefartssmellbad Some one once told me that a smart person learns from their mistake, however a wise person learn from someone else's mistake.
kidderdog 1 year ago
"Undo this shoe, please, now" - the answer to that question is "no".
nzmaximus 1 year ago
Man if i fell like that id probly die from the heart attack before i hit the ground or the end if the rope
188lifeguard 1 year ago
so dumb
macpenney 1 year ago
Looks like his last peice of pro got ripped out as he was falling, but it doesn't really matter cause he already impacted before that happened. Sorry about your ankle man, next time climb smarter not harder. The pro is your friend if you have it use it.
stykdogg 1 year ago
He put in no gear - yes it is a trad climb, he's walking up a crack. If the fool would have protected the upper moves he wouldn't have fallen ten feet. That was freaking horrible to watch - I knew he was getting ready to fly ... I just led a 5.9+ in NC over Labor Day and was looking at a 60' fall from near the top. Nothing I could do about it, except NOT fall !!!!!
genxclimber 1 year ago
@genxclimber
When he started dancing at the top he was gripped and wishing like hell he knew how to put in some good pro.
I guess I'm a chicken because I'd have put in two cams and equalized them about two body lengths below the crux. This is the kind of fool that will mess it up for everyone.
Ranger Rick: "I'm sorry sir you lead card says that you have access to climbs that are rated III 5.10a and below. If you would like to take an exam for higher rated climbs that will be $294.37..cash!
1138thz 11 months ago
ur lucky u didnt hit ur head man..
kape476 1 year ago
Should you lie him down? LAME
DeadEND2012 1 year ago
"I think i broke a foot AGAIN"
CalGSR99 1 year ago
that looked painful!
He's lucky his injuries were so minor!
EvilLamas 1 year ago
Dude ran it out too much. Shouldn't do that when you're desperate - only when you're solid. Or when it's 5.3.
halleck3 1 year ago
Need to stitch the crack up bottom line.
BL338 1 year ago
I tried that climb before, almost lose my grip, shit thats slippery!
cloudz098 1 year ago
SHIT! Nuff said.
ghoul14 1 year ago
hope everyone was ok, christ that looked awful
mrjimbeam2009 1 year ago
sorry dude. talus fractures suck. hope hes better
makeyoulol 1 year ago
He simply didn't place enough runners, falling that distance its lucky only one of his runners popped
agolaymonday 1 year ago
Number one killer in Yosemite is climbing males ages 18 to 25. "Death in Yosemite" 2009.
funetiks 1 year ago
Great response from the fellow climbers. Thats the type of people you climb with.
laddyy 1 year ago
you say that the climb is "well within the climbers ability" and yet he is fifteen feet above his nearest protection point. I doubt any real alpinists would agree with your assesment of his abilities. I am glad he has the opportunity to learn from this mistake.
recoveredperv 1 year ago
@recoveredperv Your comment is exactly what I thought. I'm not a climber, but my roomate in college was, and I went with him often, I would hold the rope and belay. Like u said, the desription says this 5.9 is well within the climbers ability. If I remember a 5.9 is pretty damn hard, this climber doesn't not look like he is nearly skilled or prepared for it.
clintonearlwalker 1 year ago
that could have been prevented so easily.
AntiHero12109 1 year ago
I've worked in YOSAR (Yosemite Search and Rescue). Climbing in jeans is fine... climbing without a helmet, well, I'm supposed to say you need one, but I often climb without one.
His big mistake was running out a climb when he had options for gear, unless he had nothing that would fit. But that would be dumb since you can see the entire climb from the ground, so bring what you need.
Glad he wasn't too badly hurt... could have been a lot worse.
fixeeg 1 year ago
looks like a jam crack to me...
PaulWolf2007 1 year ago
Seriously underprotected the route, and no helmet. 'Nuff said.
wundertigger1 1 year ago
bishops terrace? Good attempt. trad climbers all know that the runout is sometimes necessary. We accept the possibility of injury. sometimes but rarely even death. I did it the same way but found a horizontal #1 metollious tcu right before the fall. still man you got the rocks just get a little more brains on the gear.
edvestures 1 year ago
Mmmm wow that was a long placement between between the clips :S big fall
nahualito 1 year ago
Climbing with jeans is ok. Not wearing a helmet is not ok.
rachilongis 1 year ago
Has anyone asked how the guy is, and how badly he was hurt?
LeeCarl1974 1 year ago
How could not wearing jeans have done anything? I am a complete newbie but I thing I did notice is that he did not place a hold for quite a distance, did he run out? Was this a trad climb? Makes me not want to lead on a unbolted climb.
TheGnarfield 1 year ago
@TheGnarfield the run out was a mistake, which many people have commented here. Trad is fine, and the gear is great. You just have to understand what you're doing, and how to use the equipment you have. Learn to lead Sport routes first (i.e. in a gym), then have an experienced climber teach you how to lead Trad. That's the lesson to take away from this video.
maverick1166 1 year ago 9
@maverick1166 yep. i saw it before it happend when he wasnt pluggin anymore gear. poor guy. i know how that feels to take a bad fall and brake a bone(from bouldering though)
narcolepticpug 1 year ago
@TheGnarfield not too bright are you? jeans have less stretch than other form of clothing...try wearing a pair soemtime...
CriterionCoIIection 10 months ago
they make these awesome spring thingys nowadays. They come in all sizes and colors, from huge to tiny little ones. I've seen people put them in cracks before, I don't know if they would have worked on that rock though. I heard you don't fall as far when you put the shiny things in the rock... maybe that would have helped??? I dunno...
fenix990 1 year ago 3
That could have been a lot worse. Was there a reason not to place pro?
aeveland 1 year ago
why the massive run out?
vexilar1 1 year ago
i hate to say it but this was his own fault. first and foremost, where was the helmet. second you should have put in more protection, more than the single piece you put in half way up. third you should have picked something better than jeans to wear, although they may have helped to stop a few abbrasions.
rabidweasel09 1 year ago
Ahhh... the inherent dangers of climbing. A single bad fall can ruin one's entire athletic career. Is it worth it? Just say no to lead climbing.
smithsil 1 year ago
....more anchor points
thecooker241 1 year ago 2
har har trad climbers.
uthikoloshe 1 year ago
ouch....
EvilLamas 1 year ago
Arms bent all the way through, legs too high, uncoordinated moves, no pro for about 10 feet... no helmet... Dude, you don't lead unless you have pretty good technique. If you don't, just belay a leader, WATCH AND LEARN, and try to climb it right while seconding. It's safer, you learn from it, and when you do start leading, you don't get brained due to lack of experience. If you keep your arms bent like that for long periods you'll just get pumped uselessly. And while leading that's dangerous
hereticmx 1 year ago 4
rope out equals +fall, distance, sew it up. place gear that's what it's for. at least you can climb another day if you learn, right on scotty365365. wear protection for your head it's the only one one you have and brains take a shit long time to heal. learn from an "old"climber,at least they have suvived their mistakes.
atbone99 1 year ago 2
Try something more relaxing!
jonak8 1 year ago
Like stay home and just watch youtube.
.....
I guess there could be MORE than Something in between.
;o)
dieztendix 1 year ago 2
Why would you climb in jeans with no helmet!? Not responsible climbing at all!
TheWhiteSpiderUK 1 year ago 26
@TheWhiteSpiderUK I climb in jeans all the time and have no problem I would agree a helmet is a good idea but they actually will do more for you to protect from falling rocks not so much hard impacts from falling.
shafpupvet 1 year ago
@TheWhiteSpiderUK I always climb in jeans.. They prevent road rash.
donaldjamesperry 1 year ago
@TheWhiteSpiderUK I climb in jeans all the time and seen no issue at all with it. If I'm going to be climbing at my limit I'll toss on my Pranas but I have friends that lead 13s in jeans.
Tucson85743 1 year ago
@TheWhiteSpiderUK Why cant you wear jeans?
youdevil6 10 months ago
Thanks for the video. Old time climber here, 30+yrs. Taken a few forty footers over the years and always walked away. Learned to climb before top roping or helmets became poplar. Still don't climb with a helmet and prefer leading to TR. I protect often around the ground, ledges or open books/roofs you can swing into. Sew it up after ledges. "Rookie mistake" Good to see you didn't stop climbing.
Melvynman 2 years ago
Best advice I ever had was - "never take a fall on gear". Dont just take your brain out and go for it unless your willing to take the consequences. Gear, unless its bomb-proof, is just back-up, everyone knows gear rips out all the time.
And put your helmet on ffs
scotty365365 2 years ago 4
@scotty365365
Actually, I;d say learning to fall onto gear is fundamental to climbing to your potential. Any gear you place (or lack of it) should be risk assessed and subsequent actions based on that.
jonny2vests 2 years ago 2
climbing above your level is not good. Thats why he wasnt placing pro. If you are going slow---place pro-- or back off. obviously havent seen many accidents or you would have headgear
elcap00 2 years ago
or you could find another hobby
xxwesdogxx 2 years ago
wear shorts, not jeans
a380rockerfan 2 years ago
pro dude
Collen122 2 years ago
this is one of them times you learn something;)
snowyywwinters 2 years ago 20
you got that right..
MrNalaka1000 1 year ago
@snowyywwinters
you got that right
MrNalaka1000 1 year ago
You have good mates
melbournaut 2 years ago 4
So he flipped upside down at the ledge and not because the rope caught under his leg? Sometimes leading with the rope between your legs will flip you over if your leg catches it, particularly if you are off to the side of your pro.
Glad it wasn't worse. I've off with a climbing injury myself
karlbaba 2 years ago
There is that moment before it hurts when your brain says.This is going to hurt.and that seems like the longest moment in your life. No helmets??? I dont get that
chilligut 2 years ago 2
What the %@x !
U did not even capture his crashing on the rocks..
..could have at least helped us determine the seriousness of his injury..
uuduu7 2 years ago
took it like a champ
michaeld916 2 years ago
For the majority of recreational climbers, lugging up, let alone placing all the cams, nuts, widgets every "x" feet is a drag. Top rope your climbs and avoid all the drama. To see a climber rely on a tiny stopper placed in a crack, then watch them fall and experience the "zipper" effect..blows. More fun to concentrate on climbing rather than gear placement.
thicknecked 2 years ago
If you want to concentrate on the climb and not worry about your placment than lead sport routes. Top roping is poor form no matter where you are and leads to people trying routes far beyond their ability. This polishs the route for everyone else. If you can't lead it don't top rope it.
sillyak 1 year ago 2
Ouch!!! :O
stuffedolivia 2 years ago
Ha...so much anyone could say about this video. Perfect for a climbing instructor that would like to show improper technique and lack of pro! Shouldn't wear jeans, Stop over extending, and for god sake put on a helmet and get some pro in the wall! I don't care how good you think you are...never go out this far without placing pro! All it takes is one slip. A guy climbing El Cap this year slipped and 5 pieces of pro came out of the wall out of 6! You can never place too much pro!
2296jpete 2 years ago 3
totally agree with u
iroyuroy 2 years ago
brave guy! but not to much imagination, any way he was lucky
dzezydzerk 2 years ago
Nothing like getting a gripped feeling knowing there is going to be a fall, just sitting in front of a computer.
Skicolorado75 2 years ago 2
thanks for reminding us to place pro man =)
jrox007 2 years ago 3
tip: jump from the wall...
MaxieNator 2 years ago
lol
millenia007 2 years ago 2
Protection anybody?
AUGRE12345 2 years ago