hello friend. hey I have a asus p8p7 pro. intel core i5 6mb 8GB DDR3 1600 a 1GB DDR5 256bit video targeta. because my pc is slow if I have 8gb ddr3 hard when you start windows 7 over 2 minutes to upload.
@clonehackers do you have a 64-bit version of Windows 7? That will be necessary to utilize those components. In addiiton, make sure to have the latest drivers for all of your hardware. What kind of hard drives and cache do you have for them? Perhaps they need upgrading? Also, type msconfig in the start menu and disable some of your startup programs to cut time off the boot up.
ok great vid, how much would all that cost to do from scratch? I am looking at purchasing a new computer but I also like the fact that I could build one to my likeing.
@Kholmesii thanks mate... about $1200 give or take for everyhting- including firewire, mouse/keyboard/speakers. Which actually is not at all bad considering the amount of stuff I got, heh.
I don't understand what I could've done wrong, but my i5 760 temperatures are pretty bad. 35C at idle but raises to +85C within 20 seconds when running Prime95.
@Phatency it depends on your case and stock cooler. I've never used the 760, but I imagine it's similar to the 750. Mine runs warm, but I have 4 case fans and a good coller master case that keeps the air flow going. Try buying an extra case fan or two, or investing in a decent after market heat sink.
One very last question, there is this weird metal flap attached to one of the PS/2 ports. Why is this flap here? Does it serve any function? Am I suppose to remove it, bend it up/down?? The link below ilustrates what I'm trying to describe:
Sounds splendisimo. I look forward to using it. :-D Just two final questions, if I'm having to 'push' the board hard into the I/O shield, is it best to push from the rear or use two hands on either side of the board. I ask coz I'm a little nervous about applying pressure to an expensive board that I don't want to end up cracking/damaging.
Secondly, the keyboard port has a metal flap attached to it. Do i need to do anything with this?
@BadAttitube23 probably from the rear. it's very idfficult to break the board unless you snap something off the top, but I've dropped my AMD X4 and old C2D one and they're fine. I wouldn't recommend it, but they're strong. Just if it doesn't fit don't use TOO much force to MAKE it fit, b/c then you risk your hand slipping, etc. Just be careful, or if you can, bring it to the computer store and ask them to show you how for a tip or something.
@dvstudiosproductions Thanks again for your speedy reply. I will just have to grab the bull by the horns. My problem is i'm too gentle and cautious and the m/board I find quite an imtimidating component, especially since this is my first time putting one in. However, with some brute force, determination and a sledge hammer I'm sure it will slip in nicely ;-). Again, many thanks for your invaluable help and guidance and I look forward to your website when it goes online.
I finally got the m/board secured inside the case and one very sore hand. She was a stubborn mama to to secure but I managed it - single-handed too However, you overcome one hurdle and then another challenge presents itself. The problem is with the push-pin HSF. I can get three pins to 'click' into place but the fourth is sooo stubbon that it just won't click into place - sometimes it pulls the pin in the opp. corner up and loose. I've read many user complain about these stock coolers - advice?
Thanks for the speedy reply. Looks like a one-man job's gonna turn into a team effort instead lol. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...Why is nothing is plain-sailing??
@BadAttitube23 yup, no problem. yeah, nothing ever works out right the first try, lol. I'm making a website for tutorials and computer/film making stuff, so that's something to look forward to, right?
My I/O shield has a metallic foam padding applied to the back of it for improved EMI/static build-up reduction. On attempting to install the m/board, the spacers don't quite line up (by approx. 0.5 cm) due to the foam padding. I have been told by my local PC shop to give it a hard push to compress the padding, subsequently aligning the spacers with the holes oon the m/board.
My question is this: How do I do that without scraping the spacers along the bottom of the m/board?
@BadAttitube23 okay. depending on the type of case and shield, perhaps trying to attack the shield to the board and then slide both into place would work. I've never tried it before, but otherwise, force it into place on the shield and life the board at the same time. Try asking a friend for help if there's enough room in the case for an extra set of hands. Sorry I can't help more.
Does the CPU's instruction manual instruct the installer to secure the heatsink by means of pushing the fasteners down, by means of screwdriver or both? Lastly, does using a screwsriver have the same desired effect as pushing the fastenders in? Again, prolly worrying over nothing, but when spending serious money you wanna mae sure you get it it EXACTLY right FIRST time.
Thanks for your help and advive in advance and 11/10 for a great video. Thumbs up!! :-D
@BadAttitube23 It could go either way ( 0:22 ) , but I don't believe it calls specifically for a screw driver. I understand dude- thats why I make these buddy ;)
When you secure the heatsink, is it a choice of whether u push down the clips by hand or use a screw-driver (as u have demonstrated) to affix the heatsink to the m/board?
Secondly, when u remove the pnp cap, is it best lift it off vertically or by means of the method set out here:
The method depicted at the above url suggests u should NOT remove pnp cap vertically "as it requires higher force and can lead to socket contact damage".
@dvstudiosproductions Hey, thanks for the speedy reply. The following url depcits removing the pnp cap non-vertically, whereas the second url (video) contradicts the first - and they're both official Intel publications too.
1. intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030850.htm
2. intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030860.htm
I'm prolly worrying over nothing, but with a procedure where one false move could land you with a useless mboard, I wanna make sure I do this to the letter.
@xaira12 no it's not. I see what you mean, but that is the way I cut the footage, I probably cut to that before I actually tightened it, and the edit doesn't show that.
@Bonesaw711 Hmmm, must be a different heat sink?! Or just the way I cut the footage. IDK, but it's obviously properly engaged- I picked it up by the heatsink lol.
Did the fan come with the CPU or was that a separate item?
Renderxing 1 month ago
can a pcie 2.0 graphics card fit into a pcie 1.0?
Twinkiiman1 4 months ago
@Twinkiiman1 nope, it won't work.
dvstudiosproductions 4 months ago
bungler lampshade your cables perched not he can better gosh gosh
DJmixesbv 5 months ago
hello friend. hey I have a asus p8p7 pro. intel core i5 6mb 8GB DDR3 1600 a 1GB DDR5 256bit video targeta. because my pc is slow if I have 8gb ddr3 hard when you start windows 7 over 2 minutes to upload.
My PC is slow. can be a friend help me if
clonehackers 6 months ago
@clonehackers do you have a 64-bit version of Windows 7? That will be necessary to utilize those components. In addiiton, make sure to have the latest drivers for all of your hardware. What kind of hard drives and cache do you have for them? Perhaps they need upgrading? Also, type msconfig in the start menu and disable some of your startup programs to cut time off the boot up.
dvstudiosproductions 6 months ago
No thermal paste?? hmm :/
92Cope 9 months ago
@92Cope hey stupid. watch the video, we talked about that (it's preapplied)
dvstudiosproductions 9 months ago 11
does it need to put thermal paste on the i5 before placing the cooler of the cpu??? :)))
xarisorde 10 months ago
@xarisorde nope, its already there!
dvstudiosproductions 10 months ago
@dvstudiosproductions ahaa thanks you!!! :)))
xarisorde 10 months ago
@xarisorde it does if its an aftermarket cooler tho
MiniExtreme 10 months ago
@dxproductions100 its' pretty nice... fast, quiet, good at multi-tasking
dvstudiosproductions 11 months ago
do we can unlock-overclock intel core i3-540?tell me
jeggeggo 11 months ago
@jeggeggo I think you can on a p67 board, but you need a graphics card as p67 doesnt support on the chip graphics
TheMuffinDoctor 9 months ago
outstanding video.thanks for this build
I
debatemili 11 months ago
Nice!
dvtutorials 1 year ago
hey did u placed a thermal compound to the processor?
FateStayNight1991 1 year ago
@FateStayNight1991 nope, it comes preapplied to the Intel heatsink bundled with the i5...
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
@theRAGEclanmw2 Nice, yeah the 9800 is a bit old now, I am gonna get something new eventually heh. Enjoy your system, hope the tutorial helped.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
Do you have a video how to over-clock the i5 750?
svcruz 1 year ago
@svcruz No, not yet, but we may do one soon on getting it above 4 GHz like mine is.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
ok great vid, how much would all that cost to do from scratch? I am looking at purchasing a new computer but I also like the fact that I could build one to my likeing.
Kholmesii 1 year ago
@Kholmesii thanks mate... about $1200 give or take for everyhting- including firewire, mouse/keyboard/speakers. Which actually is not at all bad considering the amount of stuff I got, heh.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
@Kholmesii of course, that doesn't include software (besides the OS) or a monitor (of which I bought 2) heh
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
You didn't overclock it to 4.1ghz on that stock intenl cooler did you?
Your temps would be in the high 90's if you did. You might want to add that if you overclock get an aftermarket cooler
kyleglied 1 year ago
You got i5 750 and DDR3 runnin 1600MHz?? i5 along with P55 forces DDR's to run 1333MHz
j28gulfstream 1 year ago
@j28gulfstream yes... you can run up to 2600 MHz DDR3 RAM on the P55 board, just look at the box or the BIOS settings....
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
I don't understand what I could've done wrong, but my i5 760 temperatures are pretty bad. 35C at idle but raises to +85C within 20 seconds when running Prime95.
Phatency 1 year ago
@Phatency it depends on your case and stock cooler. I've never used the 760, but I imagine it's similar to the 750. Mine runs warm, but I have 4 case fans and a good coller master case that keeps the air flow going. Try buying an extra case fan or two, or investing in a decent after market heat sink.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
One very last question, there is this weird metal flap attached to one of the PS/2 ports. Why is this flap here? Does it serve any function? Am I suppose to remove it, bend it up/down?? The link below ilustrates what I'm trying to describe:
webuser.co.uk/imageBank/a/asus-p7p55d.jpg
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
Sounds splendisimo. I look forward to using it. :-D Just two final questions, if I'm having to 'push' the board hard into the I/O shield, is it best to push from the rear or use two hands on either side of the board. I ask coz I'm a little nervous about applying pressure to an expensive board that I don't want to end up cracking/damaging.
Secondly, the keyboard port has a metal flap attached to it. Do i need to do anything with this?
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
@BadAttitube23 probably from the rear. it's very idfficult to break the board unless you snap something off the top, but I've dropped my AMD X4 and old C2D one and they're fine. I wouldn't recommend it, but they're strong. Just if it doesn't fit don't use TOO much force to MAKE it fit, b/c then you risk your hand slipping, etc. Just be careful, or if you can, bring it to the computer store and ask them to show you how for a tip or something.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
@dvstudiosproductions Thanks again for your speedy reply. I will just have to grab the bull by the horns. My problem is i'm too gentle and cautious and the m/board I find quite an imtimidating component, especially since this is my first time putting one in. However, with some brute force, determination and a sledge hammer I'm sure it will slip in nicely ;-). Again, many thanks for your invaluable help and guidance and I look forward to your website when it goes online.
Many thanks... :-D
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
I finally got the m/board secured inside the case and one very sore hand. She was a stubborn mama to to secure but I managed it - single-handed too However, you overcome one hurdle and then another challenge presents itself. The problem is with the push-pin HSF. I can get three pins to 'click' into place but the fourth is sooo stubbon that it just won't click into place - sometimes it pulls the pin in the opp. corner up and loose. I've read many user complain about these stock coolers - advice?
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
Thanks for the speedy reply. Looks like a one-man job's gonna turn into a team effort instead lol. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...Why is nothing is plain-sailing??
Keep up the great work. m8..:-D
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
@BadAttitube23 yup, no problem. yeah, nothing ever works out right the first try, lol. I'm making a website for tutorials and computer/film making stuff, so that's something to look forward to, right?
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
Hi yet again,
My I/O shield has a metallic foam padding applied to the back of it for improved EMI/static build-up reduction. On attempting to install the m/board, the spacers don't quite line up (by approx. 0.5 cm) due to the foam padding. I have been told by my local PC shop to give it a hard push to compress the padding, subsequently aligning the spacers with the holes oon the m/board.
My question is this: How do I do that without scraping the spacers along the bottom of the m/board?
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
@BadAttitube23 okay. depending on the type of case and shield, perhaps trying to attack the shield to the board and then slide both into place would work. I've never tried it before, but otherwise, force it into place on the shield and life the board at the same time. Try asking a friend for help if there's enough room in the case for an extra set of hands. Sorry I can't help more.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
Hi again,
Does the CPU's instruction manual instruct the installer to secure the heatsink by means of pushing the fasteners down, by means of screwdriver or both? Lastly, does using a screwsriver have the same desired effect as pushing the fastenders in? Again, prolly worrying over nothing, but when spending serious money you wanna mae sure you get it it EXACTLY right FIRST time.
Thanks for your help and advive in advance and 11/10 for a great video. Thumbs up!! :-D
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
@BadAttitube23 It could go either way ( 0:22 ) , but I don't believe it calls specifically for a screw driver. I understand dude- thats why I make these buddy ;)
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
When you secure the heatsink, is it a choice of whether u push down the clips by hand or use a screw-driver (as u have demonstrated) to affix the heatsink to the m/board?
Secondly, when u remove the pnp cap, is it best lift it off vertically or by means of the method set out here:
The method depicted at the above url suggests u should NOT remove pnp cap vertically "as it requires higher force and can lead to socket contact damage".
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
@BadAttitube23 Hey, thanks for watching! 1) Yes, either way would work- just make sure it's tight
2) If you're careful, either way ought to be fine for removing the cap. I do believe that I removed it vertically and mine is fine ;)
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
@dvstudiosproductions Hey, thanks for the speedy reply. The following url depcits removing the pnp cap non-vertically, whereas the second url (video) contradicts the first - and they're both official Intel publications too.
1. intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030850.htm
2. intel.com/support/processors/sb/CS-030860.htm
I'm prolly worrying over nothing, but with a procedure where one false move could land you with a useless mboard, I wanna make sure I do this to the letter.
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
Hi there
BadAttitube23 1 year ago
Comment removed
xaira12 1 year ago
@xaira12 no it's not. I see what you mean, but that is the way I cut the footage, I probably cut to that before I actually tightened it, and the edit doesn't show that.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago
@dvstudiosproductions meant 4:50 anyways gr8 tutorial
xaira12 1 year ago
Comment removed
Bonesaw711 1 year ago
@Bonesaw711 Hmmm, must be a different heat sink?! Or just the way I cut the footage. IDK, but it's obviously properly engaged- I picked it up by the heatsink lol.
dvstudiosproductions 1 year ago